Creality Ender 3 V2 - Stop Stringing, Improve Print Quality & Time With These Two Settings
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- Опубліковано 10 лют 2025
- It can always be better! When you are making 3D prints to sell, less cleanup = more time. Less cleanup also means better looking prints as well. In this video I review one standard method of preventing stringing and one not-so-standard method so that you can produce better quality 3D prints right off of the build-plate.
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Recently switching from the Anet A8 printer to the Creality Ender 3 V-3, I knew there were some settings that would need to be adjusted, I did not realize the retraction distance would be so different. Along with settings to correct the retraction distance, I also wanted to see if I could further improve the print quality so I could reduce the cleanup required to nearly zero. With this type of print, there is a feature buried in Cura to do just that and I show you in this video where to find it and what it does.
These two settings have taken my print quality to the next level and I couldn't be happier.
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This video helped me correct my printing issues. I was leveling and meshing so much, trying to fine tune and it was all in my slicer settings. Thank you
Retraction speed also plays a factor in stringing. I have found that 100mm/s has lead to great results. Keeping your filament dry helps. And also, dialing the right temperature is also a major factor. Not all filaments are equal. Believe it or not, if you extrude at too low OR too high of a temperature, stringing can occur. There is a Goldilocks zone.
For example: on one of my spools of filament, it claimed to be rated for anywhere between 190 and 220. I found the sweet spot to be 200c and I also found that the bed temp is best at 50c. I was surprised because, with most PLA filaments, 60c for the bed temp was always perfect. 180-190 for the extruder temp was also perfect. With this particular spool of filament, the parameters were different.
Any time I get a new spool, I do a string test at all of the rated temps and settings until I find the perfect setting for that particular spool filament.
I have also found that using certain settings such as Combing or Print Within Model can sometimes add a substantial amount of time to the print. But if all else fails, use every trick at your disposal.
That was very informative and well done. I wish there was a depository of all great problem solvers like this. I wouldn't mind if it was 10 hours long, as long as it was indexed with pictures and a description. Thanks again.
Agreed
I know it's a necro, but all this stuff is still great information. Search for "simplify3d print quality guide". It's a pretty decent small concise place to start in diagnosing problems.
Ive been watching a bunch of your videos and must say, if you could create like a summary video/post/sheet with a summary of your findings for different filament types that would be freaking amazing on the Ender 3 V2. Thanks in advance for your consideration!
I have a few videos in the works now, but it can certainly go on the list, are you able to give an example of the kinds of tests and comparisons you'd be looking for.
@@NeedItMakeIt layer adhesion, surface finish, how prone to stringing some filaments are
@@kilogee700 I've been working with ABS lately again for a VORON project, but I will also be experimenting with ASA, I can certainly see if some of these can be added back in. I'm goingt to be 95% focused on 3d Printing for my channel that seems to be the area most people are interested at the moment. I've been working on bridging with ABS, I'll likely make a video once I learn enough about it. Bridging with PLA is fairly easy with cooling, but ABS doesn't normally use fans, but there are some experimental settings in CURA which allow the fans to be used only when necessary.
Combing mode is awesome! Thanks you so much for showing us this!
That is some of the cleanest 3d printing i have ever seen
Thanks, I do find that this printer gives pretty good results, this grey filament was really nice and little irregularities seem harder to pickup, the silver that I use sometimes is the opposite, it reflects the light differently and you can see everything. Still we're only talking 1/10 of a mm. I've used the Ultimaker, and it does produce even better results every time, but it is about 10 times the price.
@@NeedItMakeIt i have an ender 5 but it seems like i have to do a lot more refining to get to that level of quality.
@@NeedItMakeIt how do i get those blue visulisation lines like you have? in the slicer?
Thanks, great video. I had very similar poor concave surfaces using ABS+ on an Elegoo Neptune 2S, and found that the Combing Mode 'All' setting made little to no difference. BUT, setting Combing Mode to 'Within Infills' worked perfectly! Cheers.
Thank you for this video. This is exactly what I needed because have been messing around with this printer for a day now trying to get it to print right. Changed those two settings and prints my cable combs perfect know.
This is amazing. I tried to is on my ad3 and it was flawless printing. Thanks!
That helped so much, thank you! I've watched a number of videos on how to stop stringing, this was the first that finally did something though.
I have this exact same 3d printer. Purchased it as my first entry level device. Really helpful tips to know. Thank you.
I jokingly called the strings "plastic pubes"
Ha, that's a first... gross but accurate.
I suppose I'll thank you for talking about this, even though it's information I already have. I'm just struggling with stringing myself on the same model printer with the Sprite B extruder upgrade, so it has the direct drive extruder. Messed with calibrating the PID settings (cleaned the layer lines a bit but no impact on stringing), calibrating the extruder steps (it was just fine on default), temperature (no noticeable quality change in a range of 180 to 240), and retraction with no luck.
I find it kinda weird given all I heard, but.. I think I was getting stringing from having the retract distance be too high. Either way, I find the current print very promising where I turned the retract down to .3mm, and turned on a 0.5mm nozzle wipe. Besides a single flaw in the brim, it seems to be printing with much less stringing. Just gotta wait for the print to finish.
Edit:
Wait, I think I figured it out. The Sprite B has a solid metal heatend, so that's tens of mm worth of melting to remove the risk of clogging. I'm sure the nozzle wipe helped, but to attempt to improve it further, I have now reduced the retraction to a very low amount, turned off the wipe (feel unsure about what the extra motion might do to prints that need high precision) and instead am attempting a much higher extruder coasting distance.. that last one with the wipe did come out better, but the stringing isn't gone yet..
switch to silicone bushings and get rid of those crappy springs on the bed, I did it to all my printers. It made leveling them so so so much better
Thanks such a big help, beginner still learning.
My pleasure! I have another similar video coming out soon regarding a very useful feature in Cura to save printing time while not sacrificing on print quality
New subscriber : I have several CR10 and I used to have my retraction at 5-6 and then I tried 4 and that has made a huge difference in the quality and I have always had combing on infill.
I have tried PETG but I’ve stuck to doing small parts because I don’t want to invest in a lot of time just to have it fail ten hours into a job. guess I have to man up and go for it. I mainly use PLA and hairspray for bed adhesion that works very well for me but I think I’ll try glue stick for the higher temperature filament.
Anyway great channel you have here. Thanks I’ve already learned something new from an episode about fixing the slop in the boden tube 👍
Did you change your retraction speed too / what's your value on this setting ?
I also have a CR10 and I'm not sure my retraction speed is very well set which might affects my prints :/
@@andycarus3250 my speed is set at 45 I find that if it’s too fast the extruder gears tend to eat up the filament and cause it to break. 40-45 seams to do well for me.
@@jack0cat Thanks 👍
I was at 70-80, it seems to be a little bit high indeed ...
Thank you! Going to try this with my next print
If it's faster AND better, why isn't this always turned on?
You'd have to ask the people at Ultimaker, I cannot determine why someone would not have this applied as standard unless there were some hidden drawbacks. If you asked me to speculate, I'd say that travelling over infill could cause small prints to dislodge from the build-plate.
Right?!
Restricting the slicing has to increase the time required, unless the slicer optimizes for something else not known. Could just be an error in the time estimate. Have you measured the actual time?
Late reply but I think it depends on part geometry (a lot)
I think we need to find out where the Printer gets the the additional time. Normally Cura already calculates the optimum travel path and with combing the travel will be longer becauser the nozzle will not take the shortest distance to the next point. I mean something how the part is printed has to be changed
Thank you so much for this, it has cut chunks of time off my batch prints that I do for business meaning I can print more in a day. No idea why this setting isn't being shared more.
I'm probably sharing it enough for everyone... it seems to make an appearance in most of my videos. No problem, I keep it on for all of my parts. Check out my 2nd latest video to find out some other reasons why it helps to have it turned on.
Combing and coasting are the best stringing killers
Huge thanks for the tip. My latest print on the v2 looked like a spider web was between two parts. I'd love to know all your cura settings if possible.
No problem, hopefully my struggles can save you and some others time. Send me an email if you'd like me to send my profile needitmakeit@gmail.com
Simply put... It WORKS!!! Thanks
Hope you have evolved to 2.xx . linear advance and junction deviation gave me so so so much better prints. happy printing mate
If you are using brim adhesion reduce your first initial horizontal expansion.
This makes a lot of sense, thanks for sharing this man!
This fixed all my stringing issues. thank you so much!
Gonnantey this now. Just got a tenlog 3dr-pro IDEX printer and have some stringing
This is the best print I've ever seen
I think new Cura has this option turned on default, because my printer produced clean printings since the beginning.
Maybe it does, I'd have to reset it to check, but that would make sense, there doesn't seem to be any reason to turn it off that I have come across. Thanks!
That COMING mode thing is pretty amazing.
haven't tried it, but I think that's the problem I was having, should be helpful!
I used default Ender 3/pro profile in Cura and Generic Petg profile filament and retract was 5mm too. This a same printers with same technology, just copy settings from Ender 3.
Yes, that's exactly what I did as well. There are only a few minor changes with the V2, the silent steppers are a nice feature, however it is all for nothing when the extruder fan is so LOUD! That needs to be addressed. I personally don't like the shroud they've placed over the extruder, it looks clean but it blocks a good view for that first layer and for setting the bed height (Rant finished).
@@NeedItMakeIt Today i receive BLTouch from creality, will try it together with original FW from 29.08.2020. And waiting direct extruder from Trianglelabs. Hope he will fit without major changes. Want to try flex printing, but a bowden extruder its almost impossible.
@@Stalkeros000 I do like some of the advantages of the direct extruder, but there is a speed advantage for the boden that I do benefit from. Maybe the sturdy frame will allow the direct to print without too much ghosting. I'll check out the BL Touch, maybe this will be a time saver. That bottom layer still causes some problems every so often. How do you like your printer, and have you had any trouble with it?
Thanks for the video! I eas having this happen to me with printing multiple things on the bed i had strings all over the place. Would you recommend using that 4.75 retraction for the anycubic mega S? And i wll definitely start having that commbing option selected.
Thanks for this information. This has me wondering. Wouldn't another contributer to stringing be filament temps and moisture within the filament? Thanks again!
That was really useful. Thanx 😊
What are the disadvantages of combining? It seems every print should use this setting?
Tengo una impresora 3d tronxy xy3 con ese mismo problema, pero lo sulucione usando simplify 3d ya que tiene 2 opciones que cura no las tiene...
Interestingly, I found that with direct drive, too much retraction can also cause stringing. If you're at 1.5mm or greater, you might want to try less retraction to reduce stringing issues.
I wonder why that might be. Pulling the material up into the nozzle too far, that's a tough one to explain, I think it is something easy enough to test, but I'd need an up close nozzle cam.
@@NeedItMakeIt I'm not sure what the issue is, possibly molten material may being drawn to far back, or possibly my retraction speed being to high thereby causing a disconnect in the material. I haven't tried altering the retraction speed though.
Even with my best filament, I can still see some very fine traces of stringing, maybe it is worth more investigation to get completely clean prints with.... no strings attached. There are so many factors at play.
Material
Dryness
Nozzle Temp
Nozzle sizee
Printer speed
Travel speed
Retraction extrusion
The model itself
How the model is sliced
The list goes on and on.
Where to start?
nice one XD@@NeedItMakeIt
if that combing setting fixes it, I am going to be so insanely mad for wasting hundreds of grams of filament on trial and error...@@NeedItMakeIt
I have just one word... THANKS!
Awesome, definitely turning combing on...what I’m wondering is why would you ever turn it off?
It has to be one of the single best methods of getting a nice looking print. I always leave it on, I really can't think of a good reason to turn it off. There are times when it will not solve the problem, for example when a part has multiple vertical pillars to print, it will still jump between them, but many of my parts print flawlessly with this method.
@@NeedItMakeIt not to mention you saved almost 30 minutes on the print with better results.
EDIT: Damn, just got to the part you mentioned the lower time. I gotta stop commenting before the video is done.
@@zer0ish84 Hell, I do that all the time, too! lol
How where you able to see those strings on the machine
Very nice video I have learned a lot thank you, I am new for 3D printing, I have a same 3D printer I am trying to design a small gear for my old SONY walkman it requires a very strong gear to handling a large torque from the motor, could you please provide the correct settings for the ENDER-3 printer? I am using PLA.
How do you get to see the stringing?
Thank you for a very informative video. Is the combing setting the reason that the second print did not show any lines not the sides? If not, how did you handle that issue?
Thanks, it's been a little while since making this video. Are you able to give a timecode for the part of the video? I think you're talking about the lines for the travels. Combing still has travels, but they're mostly kept within the parts, whenever possible, and yes, that will help a lot if you print just about any part. If you print something where the printer is jumping from one 'island' to another, you can still see problems like blobbing and stringing. Faster printers help to reduce this quite a bit, but also drying your filament, and adjusting your retraction settings also helps. Let me know if I answered the right question!
It's at 3:57 on the video where you show the two side by side. The part with the strings also shows visible lines on the top/bottom whereas the one without the strings also shows no lines on the top/bottom.
I can't recall exactly, but I believe that this is partly to do with an adjustment to the seam position. If you place a seam in the same position on the part, a slight over-extrusion and slight under in some areas will line-up and will become very hard to pickup. It could very well be my choice of filament as well. I've tried all kinds of cheap filament and the tolerance on some of the spools is just horrific. They state +/-0.2mm but it is more like +/- 0.5mm and with that it's nearly impossible to see great results.
Wow that print looks really good! Do you get that quality consistently with your machine?
Yes, pretty good results every time. I find the PETG shows any small irregularities more than PLA or ABS because of the sheen, but it really is a good printer for the price. Far better than my Anet A8. You'll want to check out my video on the hidden problem with the fitting if you're having any issues with stringing and retraction. I'm working on a follow up video to solve the problem once and for all!
What is the setting in Cura that shows where the stringing will occur? (i.e. the darker blue lines at the 2:14 mark). I've been using Cura for more than 2 years and have never seen this feature. Thanks
My CURA preview does not show travel path blue lines, how to turn them on?
Great tips! How deep Is the Canada flag embossed in the part... looks about 1mm inset. Curious what the limit would be for no supports?
Thanks, most of them still apply to the fast printers, though the fast movements do help to prevent some of the stringing and blobbing issues we would see commonly a couple of years back. If you want to print a flag on the bottom, you an certainly inset it, I believe I used either 0.75 or 1mm. these days I tend to use smaller number, even 0.5 works well for embossing, it is still enough to tell what it is. For the bottom though, it might work out to bridge the distance, but even if it doesn't you'll still be able to tell what it is, the bridge will have a different texture and you should be able to pretty easily tell it apart. I suppose a test is in order to be 100% certain.
Hey tkx! You could give us all the Cura setup you usde to make such a perfect printing! :)
great video have you used esun+ on the ender 3 v 2
If u put z-hop on surely it wouldn’t even hit the piece so it’s amazing
on my cura when i activate my combing it the travel still goes on the outside and not with in the print could you please help?
Filament type is a major factor. What was used here?
I only just discovered your channel. You seem to have some great tips but how applicable is it for PLA? Also, Bowden style as opposed to what? Thanks
Excelente, aún mas si está traducido al español, estoy probando las mejoras.
Have you ever had issues with the nozzle grinding against the part? Whennever I turn on combing mode it just grinds againts everything and usually knocks over supports
could you share your gcode? I've been having a lot of problems with my prints and I don't know where else to go. Wanted to compare the settings.
It very clear, How much did you set the layer height?
I normally set these parts between 0.18 and 0.2. A compromise for a bit faster printing, but nice enough looking parts.
How are you seeing the amount of stringing based on your current print settings? I can't seem to see mine.
Great topic, thanks
Sadly, setting my combing mode to all did not get rid of such stringing /travel paths on my prints.... -_-, I don't know why that is. I have a Creality CR - 10 V2.... Are the other settings I have to check over so it does work?? I am printing in PLA + .
It is possible the the type of print you're making has a series of "islands" meaning that there is no way to prevent going from one area to the other but to span the gap. If you're having issues with stringing with PLA+, it may be filament dryness, with a hit of retraction. Are you able to send a photo to my email?
Is combing turned off on any default profile?
question How do I activate the travel path the extruder takes (your webs in between) which option. thanks
This also works for tpu? With pla I have zero stringing but if I print with tpu it looks like a spider are in "rage mode"....
Hi, many thanks for this tips. BTW, where can I find the same holder ? Like where you set it 👍🏾
No problem, I'm working on the next video right now :) The spool holder is the one that came with the printer, i turned it sideways and because my prints are normally not too tall, the height of the spool is okay, if you have taller prints, it wont work too well because the boden tube will start to rub. I plan on offsetting it a bit in the future because I don't want to build a new enclosure... yet. All plexiglas would be really cool I think, I might just flop around with the heat, so maybe a wood frame.
please can someone help,in the experimental part i dont have the Bridge options.im new at 3d printing and cura so need some help to understand
do you know how to fix that in prusa slicer?
Gorgeous print!!! What filament was it? Thank you for sharing retraction distance.
This is grey ABS from 3D printing Canada 3dprintingcanada.com/collections/abs/products/grey-1-75mm-abs-filament-1-kg They always seem to be out of stock of the grey. It does print very nicely.
I do not recommend their silvers, they seem to absorb a lot of moisture, I've tried both ABS and PETG silvers and they are both terrible with moisture while Black and Red and Grey all work well all of the time.
@@NeedItMakeIt Thank you for replying! Really appreciate telling issues about the silvers.
What about the creality slicer program? Is that any good
How do you get cura to show you the path of the nozzle like you have here or is that the predicted stringing in the print? Either way I cant see anything like this. Thankse
My E5+ comes with a Creality slicer by Cura but it don't have those settings. Is this slicer free and do you have a dirrect link where I can download it? Thanks for the video print came out really nice.
Wow. Thanks!
Thanks
My pleasure, let me know if there are any specific test that may be interesting or useful to you.
Seems like Combing is missing in PrusaSlicer, oh well...
wow.. Maybe I can get my Tronxy X5SA 2020 model to do this too? Any help on that stringing etc. is very welcome. Thanks for the information.
What size nozzle what version of cura those prints are perfect well done
Hi, I was using 4.7, now 4.8 beta. Nozzle size 0.6, no cooling fan, I print between 0.18 and 0.2mm layer heights normally. The trick is to turn on combing mode, the quality goes up dramatically. If you want to go one further, just print one part at a time this takes away the travel moves between parts and you'll find an even better result. These were printed with ABS, but I print with PETG now with very good success, PETG will leave very fine spiderwebs, super easy to clean up with a little bit of steel wool. PETG is better for bed adhesion which in turn gives you a better final product, both in looks and dimensional accuracy. Let me know if you need any more info, I'm happy to help.
i have a problem because v2 also strings but it also clumps up and cracks and i dont know why PLS HELP
Muchas gracias buen hombre !
Muchas gracias! Thank you very much!
nice sharing bro, thanks...
Thank you, more to come! I've had my fair share of printing struggles, maybe videos like this will help a few people.
Looks great! Any drawbacks using this option?
So far nothing. The only thing I might say is that parts which would not benefit from this may have slightly better results without it. I can throw a few tests in to see if there is any visible difference and get back to you.
I've finished a few more prints using this feature with very good results. I have also found another feature within Cura to speed up the printing time without having a negative affect on quality. I'll be sharing a video about this within a few days.
@@NeedItMakeIt Very cool!! thank you.! :))
When you refer to retraction and combing, what slicer program are you using? I am having the same issue with some different stl files.
can you share cura profile ender 3 v2 for abs?
Thanks! Im having trouble when printing multiple parts, the best retraction distance & speed, temperature works great for you to prevent stringing? Cheers!
Here is my profile, let me know if it works. This is for Cura. drive.google.com/file/d/1plhaXV8HkmL17OqxWybYdQdBNrmtYVGQ/view?usp=sharing , If that doesn't work I print with Mainly ABS so here are the stats:
Infill: 75mm
Inner Wall: 55mm
Outer Wall: 35mm
First Layer: 45mm
Nozzle Temp: 235C
Bed Temp First Layer: 98C
Bed Temp After First: 95C
Retraction: 5mm
Turn on Combing
Turn on Z-hop
Turn on Part avoidance
Set your seam locations manually for the best position, and move your parts around so your travel moves end up in the best spots
Multi parts are best done with pla or a material you can use the fan. ABS isn't great because it needs to be printed with the fans off, so I mainly print one part at a time.
Which material do you print?
Would these setting work for petg?
@@michaelhudson7809 I've noticed on my builds that they don't seem to fill properly, they have some open spots all throughout the build and thank you for the profile settings
In your description it says you have the ender 3 v3 (its the v2 right ?)
I like the wooden case you made. Easy to modify later on etc.
So your ender 3 is stock?
Still assembling mine since banggood gave me 1 faulty wheel so getting that in today.
What is the print you made there it looks like it is professional quality!?
Really nice job.
Ive gotten mine with a metal extruder and I am gonna upgrade it with bl touch.
And a raspberry pi with a cam on it.
Any other upgrades you did or reccomend?
Hi Rick, yes, Ender 3 V2. The wooden case was inexpensive to make and I am a woodworker by trade so it comes naturally. A fully plexiglas case would be nice down the road though, the wooden case blocks light and makes it hard to make sure everything is running the way it should.
Yes, mine is stock, I needed to snug up a few bolts and adjust the cams a little for the wheels for the Z axis travel so that they weren't too tight. The aluminum frame is good, however the tolerances for the frame could be a little tighter.
The raspberry Pi would be a nice one, the BL is pretty cool and I've heard good things about it as well.
I prefer to keep my printer as simple as possible (like my cars) because when they break down and require maintenance, it is cheaper to replace the parts and with less possibility for failure in general. I may consider a direct drive extruder down the line and the bed springs are not great and do not apply enough pressure to the large leveling nuts so they are a little too 'free' to rotate. If i stick with the Boden, I'd replace the stock plastic extruder/single gear housing with a metal one and dual gears for better. I may also experiment with the tube length, apparently it can be shortened which helps a little with retraction.
How did you know the wheel was faulty? Bearings?
@@NeedItMakeIt
Mayb some led strips for in the wooden case for the light?
The wheel itself is damaged. I tried running it up and down and it has a unnatural stop (bump in it) and also damage shows on the wheels.
They just arrived and I had to replace both top wheels to make it smooth with no bumps. And am now going to continue assembling it.
What was the print for you made in this video ?
LEDs sound pretty good, I actually have a adjustable colour set that I could rig up.
I am finally getting the hang of feeding filament in from the side, I was struggling and I am always hesitant to move the printer so that I can avoid any need to re-level the bed. Maybe a little access door from the side would be good so I'm not feeding 'blind'.
I've never heard of that problem with the wheels, defects are tough to see on black. I'll order a few replacement wheels to keep handy in case these ones go.
The print was from a set of Bowflex bench parts that I make, ua-cam.com/video/9M2wX5IQAYU/v-deo.html. This is something I wanted to make available to everyone, but it seems that many people want me to print sets for them. Printing these structural parts does take a good level of care to make sure they last and they don't break under the applied loading in any scenario.
WARNING****I'm working on a video right now about under extrusion, you may not be able to save E-step changes with the current firmware on your printer. You'll need to update the firmware first and the problem is solved. I struggled with this for a while and finally came upon the right solution. I had been compensating for it in the flow rates, the real problem resides in the incorrect e-steps for the extruder. It was set to 93, you'll be allowed to change it to 104 for example, but the changes are not saved and you'll think everything is good, but it is not and anytime you turn the printer off it will reset back to 93. I've lost countless hours on this and when printing these types of parts, they can't be under extruded. There is a YT video on how to update it for the V2; my video will be on how to identify the problem.
@@NeedItMakeIt the wheels if they are fine they are.. I can't post a pic in this reply otherwhise I whould but it looked like someone did not open the wheels wide enough when putting on the x axis and just pressed to hard and made small cuts in the wheel plastic with the sharp alluminum on top.
(Its not like mine ran out cause of heavy duty)
Got mine to print and the quality is really good for what I can print. (Devil design pla) but the benchy boat fails at say 80% it had trouble making the roof of the boat. (Bridging)
Trying to make a flexible dragonfly right now.
Eventually I want to load fillament from the side. But right now it is stock. Just printed some bl touch mounts and saw a little bit of lifting on the first layer. So now I am trying with 3dac to make it stick more. With the dragon fly.
Have not really made a good custom profile in Cura yet. Still new to all of this. And have not made any adjustments.. So my settings can't really jump back.
The bowflex looks really clean and a good option for it.. I am surprised you can lrint something that strong cause if you are benching heavy it will take some force!!! Nice!
Thank you
thank you
So I have the travel path... then also the "shell" which looks like a travel path.. but its not... It keeps extruding from one piece.. over to a seperate piece.. any advice!? Thabk you!
Are you able to send me an email with a photo? The part you're trying to print may have "islands", in that case there isn't much that can be done. If you're having trouble with stringing, stay away from PETG, or try drying your filament, or keeping it in a box with desiccant to keep it dry.
@NeedItMakeIt Hey thanks a lot for taking the time to respond! Im a numb nut..! And had "SPIRAL" setting turned on... thats what was doing it in case you come accross that!
@@stickboyfpv4742 We've all been there, there are so many settings and if you're like me, tweaking them all of the time, we're bound to leave something on that shouldn't be. I'm glad you sorted it out.
@NeedItMakeIt Hahahaha yeah Its so time consuming changing only one thing and repeating over and over!
how do you get it to show the travel paths in the slicer?
That's a nice print !!!
Really cool...which ABS filament is this?
This is the generic ABS filament supplied by 3D printing canada, nothing special here, I've tried others and I haven't found any benefit over these. Here is a link if that helps: 3dprintingcanada.com/collections/abs/products/silver-2-85mm-abs-filament-1-kg
@@NeedItMakeIt thanks a lot for the speedy reply! Color looks cool.
@@MA-nx3xj No problem! There is one issue with this silver filament, it is highly affected by moisture, in the cooler weather it prints really well, in the heat of the summer... really terrible and needs to be dried. Otherwise it is a very good product, and no other ABS that I've printed with acts in this way.
@@NeedItMakeIt Thank you for your input.
I just got my Ender 3 V2 this Thursday and I'm loving it!
I did every thing but I have little stringing is it normal
There are some other factors, like how dry your filament is, the dryer the better, also, the type of filament being printed, PETG tends to be a bit stringy, where as PLA and ABS aren't so much, of course each brand and the additives make some slight difference also. If you can send me a pic to needitmakeit@gmail.com, I'd be happy to help more.
Thank you!
Great info 🙏
very helpfull 🙏🙏
Great tip...
hello thanks one more question can you share here your profil settings thank you again
drive.google.com/file/d/1TO6z8dptLZOI2y_eBmG_m4exzY3lLtRi/view?usp=sharing Here you go, this one is for PETG, I print for the best adhesion, you'll want to adjust the fans to suit what you're printing. I print with a 0.6 nozzle also.
@@NeedItMakeIt thank you .
Ive been using combing mode for a while but it doesnt seem to work well with parts that have holes or voids within the part itself. any tips on what to do to solve or compensate
How is it that your preview is different colors and mine is just yellow and woukd you mind helping me set up my 3d printer to make prints as nice as yours
Best thing is to start with a good profile, are you printing with PLA? Also send me an email at Needitmakeit@gmail.com, I'll set you up with a generic profile to get you going. I am super busy so I will do my best to get back to you soon.
@@NeedItMakeIt thank you so much for the reply I sent you an email like you requested and hopefully you can set me up with that generic profile to get me going and yes I am printer right now with PLA but just made an order for 10kg of PLA+
Great vid man thx
your 4 minute video was more informative than the 187 reddit threads i've scrolled through.
LOL, that's good, I know what you mean, I've spend so much time online, but in the end it is just a flick of a switch/checkbox and bob's your uncle. I still use this feature even today with the Bambu and Creality Printers, but I do miss using Cura, I need to get it back somehow!
Nice video! I will try these settings on my next print. i do have a question on something else however. I have the ender 3 V2 and i printed something out with ABS and i did not save the damn settings, so i loaded the stl file back in and printed another one out with the settings i thought i had and the part come out lighter in weight. Both parts look amazing overall but the first one weighs .9 and the second one weighs .06, you can definitely feel the difference for sure. Both parts were printed with 100% infill so i do not get it. Any suggestions? Is there anyway to load the GCODE file back into cura and see what settings i used?
Yes you can load the gcode back into Cura, but I've never tried looking at the settings afterward. I've done it by accident... Both parts printed with 100% infill, seems like it would be solid. Is it possible that one print is hollow and you were not watching so you were tricked?
@@NeedItMakeIt I do not think one is hollow, I have printed the same part these last few days 5 more times to try and figure it out and no luck. I think I will cut both parts open and have a look on the inside.
@@ericc8895 5 months later but I'm still curious. What was the verdict?