You mentioned that you coved combing in another video. Just a tip, always put a link to any video you reference in your description. It makes it soo much easier to find.
For very small parts it is often better to print multiple of them. There is a minimum time per layer or the print doesn't cool enough and pausing between (set your minimum layer time to around 10s) introduces blobs.
@@mrpbjnance Oh sorry, I like to integrate butter into my videos. There may be a way to use it, if we separate the milk solids from the fats and apply just the solids they may work fairly well as a binder. Best just to use glue stick though. On the other hand the clarified butter can be very tasty and doesn't burn in the pan.... I also make cast iron pan test videos, and I love butter.
I use Land o Lakes 😏 lol but really, I actually use a decent hair spray on my creality glass bed printing Petg. Works better for me then any adhesive marketed to the 3D printing world that I’ve tried, just a light layer and your golden for a while, then if you notice any issues, clean plate with alcohol then respray, I might have to do that once a month with moderate usage.
@@marv8481 Here in Spain we use the hairspray "Nelly". It is very good and it takes very little for the PLA or ABS to be sinked into the glass of the bed. No need to heat the bed at all. A bottle of lacquer Nelly costs about € 3 or about $ 4 and I can print several kg of filament with it since they are big. The same brand produces a lacquer for 3D printers, which is exactly the same formula, but without the smell of lacker, and costs 5 times more. So I advise you to use Nelly hair lacquer instead of another lacker or system, im pretty sure it can even be bought on Amazon. To remove the printed part in PLA or ABS from the glass, you can put the glass in the freezer 10 minutes also.
Just starting out in 3D Printing. ( as of this comment 😁) Mostly to Try and get my 11 Year Old Son doing something else with his Tablet than playing games 🙄 He has Good skills for drawing, so I see, 3D Printing as the next level to developing his hobby to another level. Great to see so much information like this available here on UA-cam. Of course Subscribed. Looking forward to learning how to speak another language 😉👍
My pleasure, we'd all like to load up the build plate, in order to do that everything needs to be perfect to get great results. for the rest of us, these tips help a bit.
@@oneheadlight8000 drive.google.com/file/d/1TO6z8dptLZOI2y_eBmG_m4exzY3lLtRi/view?usp=sharing Try this, it is set for PETG with minimal fan, you can adapt as needed.
@@NeedItMakeIt thank you! I print pretty much exclusively PETG.. around 120 spools of it last year. We just bought 3 ender 3 v2’s and are dialing them in. Your prints look noice!
@@oneheadlight8000 Nice stuff, three wow. Having a few of the same printer makes a lot of sense for replacement parts and repair, interchangeability and the list goes on. Very smart. Do you have to dry your material before you begin printing with it, how do you handle the moisture absorption, or is it a non-issue for your parts?
Congrats on the layer consistency. A mixture of a very squarely assembled frame, tight belts, correct V-wheel pressure and many other things are required to achieve this.
The butter failed in my testing. The print would dislodge from the plate, and fly across the room. It wasn't until I came across your video that I should have used salted butter. If I only would have known sooner.
@Brax W Before you make the obligatory, overused reddit joke, maybe you should take into account that I was replying to someone else's comment. It appears that comment doesn't exist anymore, but my reply still stands. In case someone doesn't get the joke, yes grease will prevent the print from sticking. Now that we got that cleared up, this matter is in my opinion resolved.
@@hank1845 You're welcome I guess. If you need bed adhesion, use a heated bed at 60 degrees for first layer and drop down to 50 degrees for the rest to help avoid warping. Hair spray is a good adhesion agent.
I would agree that simple models will generally show better results The test samples shown in the video clearly show the differences in the techniques used.
@@bikerboy3k no need to make a rude comment, he is simply stating that it shows the difference each setting makes...... thats not defensive at all its simply stating the entire goal of the video.
I haven't used that trick in quite a while, but it's a pretty cool way to get a smooth bridge, especially if you have repeatable parts to make it worth the time to do. A little tape on top and some glue stick for good measure since the surface is only at room temp.
Thanks for the "Print Sequence" tip! I was on my way to make a python script just to create a single .gcode from individual parts .gcode files. Nice to learn that!
I have a cheat for printing taller prints also, but it is a bit risky, I'll test it out a bit more before making a video. It involves lowering the hotend and choosing a volcano type hotend also which further drops the hotend down. But there is one more tip that can help but I think it is risky business.
I’ve had a lot of luck with scotch brand blue tape. You can print PETG on it with a 0 degree bed so it saves energy. Sticks really well and can be used several times before replacing it.
@@alejandroperez5368 I’m saying on blue tape you can print with 0 degree bed with PETG all the way through. No need to turn on the bed if you have the right model.. some require 65 degrees with glue stick, hair spray or blue tape if the model doesn’t have a lot of surface contact. I have never used a brim with PETG in over 300,000 hours of printing
Drying your filament will also help A LOT. Even with PLA! If you don't dry your PETG or PLA, it will usually ooze out of the nozzle, even when there's no pressure applied by the extruder. This leads to those blobs shown at 5:00. Keeping it dry (max. 10% humidity), there won't be any oozing.
@@uhu4677 I'm staking the gel I get from shoes and wherever I find some. I don't have any air-tight box so I'm just using zip bags and placing it on a dry place
I've not used random seams since I tried it the first time. It simply introduces very visible surface defects. Took me a while to figure out what was causing these surface defects, but once I did and switched to one seam, all of the defects were gone. Second issue is *random filament stuck to the nozzle.* This will absolutely ruin your print surface once it detaches and gets incorporated into the print. Always get these off.
@@mbikerFR I simply turned off random seam and chose the seam placement to be sharpest corner and random location. Random location is different from random seam. I also tried arc welder which converts multiple points into uniform arcs. This limits the amount of "stops" the nozzle makes when it moves from point to point. Depending on the motherboard, it may cause a very slight pause at each point and some material oozes out, forming a blob.
@@PunakiviAddikti hi can you help me wher to find this? (225C Nozzle, 75C Bed, 78mm Infill, 37mm Outer Wall, 57mm Inner Wall, 45mm Initial Layer) i don't know where to find this it is because im literally newbie on this 3d printing. please help me.
@@daniellejunio1810 There are plenty of 3D printers that can do 225C on the nozzle and 75C on the bed. Infill, outer wall, inner wall and initial layer are controlled by the slicer software.
My man, I thought I was crazy, or it was just my setup. I tried printing 6 parts I had customized, all came out crap, thought it was my settings and .8m nozzle. Just for a test did them on their own, and all came out beautiful. Thank you for the sanity check.
I get my best petg results using 255c on the nozzle and 25% fan and a flow rate 95% also slow down the retract and advance speeds 25mm/s this seems to help with blobbing somewhat. also make sure its printing perimeters FIRST then infill and not its default of infill first then perimeters.
@@bc4ke a couple of reasons first when the plastic hardens it doesn't exactly push out of the way so when you print infill first and then the perimeter the infield pushes the perimeter out where it intersects this is why you sometimes see the infield stick out on models people print Second the inflow intersects the perimeters and you want them to for strength it helps to build proper info when it touches the perimeter outside edge of the model but if you're printing a button fill first there's no Edge to attach to yet I can't think of a single good reason to print infill first
I substituted my usual hairspray for "I can't believe its not butter" and couldn't get the filament to stick. is there a certain type of butter I need to get? Thank you sir! New subscriber...
Here's another tip I only started doing recently: If you use a newer build of Cura with a Creality printer (maybe others as well), your nozzle does a purge line on the corner of the bed. It's probably 10cm long. Adjust the start gcode so it's only 5cm - all it's doing is priming the nozzle. Now, since that's getting your nozzle primed, you don't need to print a skirt anymore around the perimeter of the print, so go ahead and set the build plate adhesion to "None" (assuming your prints typically stick to the bed reliably after printing skirts). This knocks a small amount of time and material use off of your prints, which adds up over time. This is especially important if you want to operate a 3D printing business, because lean is the name of the game for that.
For sure, the main reason that I leave a brim or skirt on is to make sure the previous filament is purged out properly from the nozzle. It isn't too professional to have a mix on that first layer only to find out when the print is finished. Valid points though, thanks!
Skirts are necessary for first layer Z-offset calibration at the start of each print. Something you will most likely have to deal with on cheap 3D printers and considerably large prints.
The print sequence option on Cura....VERY helpful. I tried it and am hooked. Have to plan out placement of parts to prevent the gantry from hitting it but otherwise, very helpful. Thanks very much for posting this. Made a huge difference!
I've thought about other ways to improve this, printing with PLA and ABS seem to be very forgiving with stringing compared to PETG. I've just downloaded the newest version of CURA, super curious to see what is inside that could be helpful.
Very true, slower usually yields better results. Many of my prints are for customers and I don't always have time to wait so I've brainwashed myself to thinking everyone needs to print fast. I suppose that could make for a good comparison even for my own knowledge. How slow is too slow? I would assume at some point it will not produce a better quality.
@@NeedItMakeIt if the print have steep overhangs the slow speeds sometimes work against you. The heat of the nozzle dont let time to cooldown the overhang and make things worse. Sometimes i add a second part if what im printing is too small. Sorry for may bad english, is not my first language
@@adriandelhoyo Haha, no worries, I like butter so I try to add it to my videos whenever possible. Maybe I'm sick? I thought maybe you were referencing a sequel to a movie... shows what I know. Have a great one.
Your printer has 0.04 z axis resolution so you should print with 0.08, 0.12, 0.16 layer height instead of 0.1, 0.15 and so on, otherwise it will cause artifacts. Also you should try linear advance feature of marlin to reduce seam visibility, because now its huge, and your stock feeder + tmc2208 may struggle with that, i will suggest titan feeder and tmc2209. Random seems is just harmful setting, never use it
@@jessehellakoo The "magic number" is 4. Because with each step from the stepper motor it moves 0.04mm. Doing half steps can reduce quality on budget machines so much that the difference is easily visible. One could mitigate said issue with quality stepper motors but most people don't want to upgrade their printer out of the box. Same applies to the speed settings. You don't want to set it to 50mm/s. Either 48mm/s OR 52mm/s. Every number that can be divided by 4 without creating decimals works just fine. I'm lacking the mathematical term as I'm not a native speaker and math was always my nemesis, lol.
@@DrEckig thanks buddy. I normally print on 0.12 mill layer hight on my cr10s4 it takes litterly weaks for big parts but i upgraded it to linear rails and the hemera revo the resulsts are crazy
I used to use Print One at a Time, but in a previous version of Cura, they changed how it determined the order to do the models (random selection of the models). After having just played with it, it appears they restored the previous ordering (last model loaded prints first). With the last in/first out ordering, you can arrange the models front to back and you don't have to worry about collisions. You can print any size model by tweaking your carriage settings. When doing multiple parts, I prefer One at a Time (POAT?) for the exact reasons you covered. Also, if you have a failure, you don't immediately lose an entire bed worth of prints.
I've have tried this feature, but I've not found that it works well for my parts. It looks for sharp corners to place the seams so they are less visible, my parts don't have corners unfortunately, but it could be useful for some people.
@@NeedItMakeIt Yes, it only works best with corners. Even then it can be easily noticeable. I wish there was an option for wipe hiding. Basically, the outer perimeter would start slightly in the infill and move outwards or inwards depending on the perimeter being printed. This would eliminate blobs at the start of the perimeter. It's basically nozzle wiping but in reverse.
I noticed just turning down the nozzle temp helped a lot for me. As long as you have dry filament and your esteps are good you should be good. I use to print super hot right at 220 for PLA. 210-215 helped give me super smooth prints.
Yea, I was like did he say butter? and had to replay. I'm hoping it's not for real. I've seen many videos and read lots of posts and no one has mentioned using butter. I'm still somewhat new at 3d printing and have only used PLA but have yet had the need to use anything to make my prints stick. Usually when they don't stick I just slow down the first layer.
I've been printing for a few years now and I still feel new somedays, there is a lot more to know than one might thing looking from the outside. Thank you for the comment and support!
8:25 ... you can improve that blobbing. It is doing that because it writes a checkpoint to the SD Card it reads from in case of a power failure, so it can resume printing. If it can't write fast enough the buffer will run out and cause a split second delay and the extruder will keep extruding and leave a blob. Either A.) use a SD Card with faster transfer speed or B.) disable resume printing after power failure so it doesn't try to write the checkpoint file.
A video on how to get that soft seam on circular objects would be awesome. I’m troubleshooting on mine but still it dips in too much. would really appreciate some help. (using MS DD and all metal hotend)
enable retraction in your slicer settings (retraction in cura, maybe called something else in your software of choice). It pulls the filament back from the nozzle and generally does a really nice job of eliminating blobs and other defects where the nozzle stops for a second before changing direction. I have mine set to 7mm retraction length and my surface finish is usually near perfect. Unless I do what I did an hour ago and let my printer run out of filament. Whoops.
Thanks so much for this video, ive had multiple issues with just one roll of red filament, turned on combing and one at a time and suddenly my prints are flawless, brilliant :)
At 3:05 why did your printer print a line on the side of the bed? I have an artillery sidewinder x1 and I’m coming along after finally getting the files to show up on cura and am working on the benchy and mjolnir but a new problem is that it starts printing on the side but then keeps going so the filament wraps around the nozzle and pulls any that was on the bed around with it. how do I prevent that or how do I just get it to cut off like yours did?
This can be setup in the startup Gcode script in your slicer, I've modified mine a bit to shorten it, the clips at the front and back were being hit on occasion and I wanted to avoid that. Here is the code, and you should be able to add it to your slicer without too much trouble. ; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G28 ; Home all axes G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish I've had the problem you are talking about with my Anet A8, the code shown above helps a lot to prevent this from happening. Good luck and let me know if you need help.
The Channel CHEP has some tips for firmware updates. I had problems with this out of the box and it caused me lots of trouble with under extrusion, his videos helped me for sure.
@@NeedItMakeIt Hi, I'm a 3d printing noob who borrowed my father's select mini v2 to learn and recently bought myself a ender 3 v2, after almost a week of troubleshooting and tearing and rebuilding it 3 times I figured out my glass plate is bad (noob mistakes) and no amount of tweaking will give me a good bed level so I removed it and can finally start printing but I've never messed with the firmware, is it good to update it to latest when released or is it more of a "if it ain't broke don't fix it" kinda thing? Just curious what I should do If my prints are already coming out good?
@@BlondieSL it doesn't have the bed leveling sensor, but it came prepared for the bltouch on the motherboard. There's a bltouch firmware available on the creality website that works oké. I run a version of marlin that is a bit easier to modify. It's all in all a really complete printer for the money, although I find the rollers somewhat unstable and very high maintenance. I'm considering upgrading to linear rails on all the axis, but some say it makes the prints worse. Out of the box performance is just as good as a prusa MK3S.
New sub. Why do the program spots to start a new layer? Wouldn't it be better for it to keep going to the next layer in the same motion, especially since your going around in a circle? Like vase mode.
Glad to have you! I'd have to think very hard about this, but I believe it is not possible. At least not currently possible. In vase mode there is only 1 wall layer, a continuous motion upward is possible except for the bottom and top layers. When printing these normal parts the entire part must be filled in, the nozzle would travel up, then down, and so on until the entire layer(s) is complete. What you may be looking for is called non-planar 3D printing (true 3d printing). I'm sure in a few years we will have the ability to do this at home with some limitations.
Matthew, use the slicer's visualize feature and step through one layer at the time (i.e., super slowly) to see how the print progresses. This is a fantastic feature.
At 0:20 you drop a printed disc into a printing part. Was that done to provide support for layers to print on top in the printing part? Did you apply anything to the printed disc to prevent "welding"?
Just discovered your channel.. Very cool tips all around Tks.. Your print quality is very good overall.. Would you mind sharing your cura print profiles to take a general look (and maybe copy parts of it)?I use a standard .4 nozzle, but might move to .6 after you show your results.. (mostly focused on practical prints myself, not figurines and such) Also, always wondering what needs to change and what not as I switch between different materials (PETG, PLA, TPU, Nylon) and different layer heights.. Maybe an idea for a video..
It's probably extreme for demonstration at 01:00, but in the first example of two parts, those prints are waaay too far from each other and i doubt anyone would arrange the prints like that, just the travel time spent between the parts is probably quite a few percent and it would be an invitation for stringing, a distance of 1mm between two parts is enough, not half the buildplate.
Hi NeedItMakeIt, and i was just wondering if you could help me get better printer results, I have an ender 3 pro and I've had trouble for a long time trying to make my prints look nice, but they have always had some kind of defect in them. I've tried everything like I' got a new extruder, I calibrated the E steps for the extruder, and i even got a new hot end too, it would be really helpful if you were able to help me out with. i could also show you pictures of the prints to, Thank you
Sure, send me some pics, a video of a print with the issues is also helpful, sometimes these can be tough to identify without knowing all of the variables and your settings.
Go to the heater "Walls" go down and select "User Specified" and choose your corner or x/y location that you'd like. I'm currently looking at PrusaSlicer, they have a feature to Paint on the seams, one problem... I can't get the print to start yet, I need to fiddle a bit more with it.
I do this as well as adjusting the retraction speed and distance for the type of filament I am using. This allows me to print multiple prints without messy cleanup. The blobbing effect is what happens when the filament pools up in the nozzle the pressure causes it to push out as it leaves the part to go the next part. There is also the stringing effect people get. The combing setting and z hop will help eliminate this. I get very little if almost like slight spider web like whisp of string at the most now, nothing a swipe from my small butane torch doesn't eliminate in a poof, gone. Even a good heat gun would do the job. No blobs and all calibrations set. With all of that you can really dial in a printer to go above the bar of what they do out of the box. With a little tweaking that is. 😁👍 Good video!
@@NeedItMakeIt just take a look at its fluidity. I prefer to print at the lowest temperature bound, in that case you will have less smudges and strings. Try to reduce your temperature settings by 5-10-15 degrees and compare.
Heyyy i got a problem with my ender 3 V2. Everytime i print, on the highest spot of the print i get blobs or bad quality. Im really new, so please help
Nice video. I'm new to 3s printing world and I have a ender 3 v2 but my bad is different that yours. Why do you change the bed? I also have problems of adhesion to bad I used hairspray but all the videos I see people don't use anything on default bed. Why do I need to? I have a leveled the bed and the level test is printing very nice don't know what to do anymore
@@marine1718 , I had to go to 210 and 70 on the textured side of the glass Or things simply would not stick. Bed temperatures especially seems important. On the smooth side I could go to 200 and 60, But I had to use hairspray or glue, glue sucks, it messes up the face. Ya know what worked well for me (on the smooth side only). MILK, brush on some evenly and let dry. BTW clean bed well first. I use DAWN dishwashing liquid, rinse really well and let dry, then use whatever.
Are you printing ABS, PETG or PLA? ABS is hard to get to stick, Nano adhesive works super well, I have a video on that, if you are using PETG or PLA regular dollar store glue stick works very well.... too well most of the time, I need to put my prints into the freezer to release them.
That works too, the fuzz will cause your print speed to slow quite a bit and also it can also cause far too much for your slicer to process depending the Fuzz-e-ness a more coarse fuzz works just fine though and looks good to me as well. For PETG it helps to avoid that sheen too.
I printed with PETG-CF yesterday and I loaded the buildplate, unfortunately even with a fast printer I still had blobbing between travel moves, for the best results, print separately or use this feature if you are able to.
You dropped a couple of bits at the end there. Your e's are only 7 bits long, they're missing an extra 0 in the middle. Great videos though, and I still subbed :)
Im trying to print carbon fiber and doing testing with PLA, but as soon i changed the Firmware the printer do not print like yours anymore. Not sure if was the new cheap PLA. Any feed back that you can give me on this matter ?
It could be that you need to recalibrate your e-steps. Can you link an image so that we can have a look? If you're printing CF filament you may have a nozzle clog or your extruder gear is worn. This small sample did quite a number on mine and I took the gear off to re sharpen the teeth to points. Amazing stuff, but it can cause us some trouble. Can you mark 110 mm on the filament before it goes to the extruder and then set your printer to extrude that amount, that if the mark is 10mm away you're in good shape. If it is too close or too far, you'll have over/under extrusion and that can lead to some minor to major problems in your prints. Sorry if you know this already, I don't know what you know.
I believe this was the zoom H1N mic, i still use it when i script, some is off script and it is easier to use the phone mic or BT lapel mic in those cases. I also edit out the bad sounding stuff and do a little noise reduction in DaVinci resolve
On a circular single part why is there a need for a seam at all? Couldnt it just comb inwards while adjusting the z height and continuing to print? My printer arrives in two days be gentle lmao.
This method is known as the VASE mode, it is possible right now. If you have multiple walls, it is not currently available. I think your idea is possible in some cases in a spiral type motion from in to out and then up, then from out to in, but it would still have a seam where the beginning and ends of the extrusion are. There are a few other ways to get better seams which I did not discuss, they'll be in future videos. Linear advance is one, nozzle diameter is another. Smaller diameter = better seams, but at the cost of much longer print times and weaker parts.
Lol, butter? Is this a joke vid? I honestly can't tell. We're trying to fix stringing and zits here, it seems, yet there's no mention of dialing in retraction settings. What was the point of randomly switching to an entirely different filament/material in the 5th sample? The only thing that makes sense here is that yes, combing helps, and yes, printing one thing at a time helps (no travels).
I've covered many of them in previous videos as well, I like the keep these videos short and sweet with an emphasis on showing the tests and results in detail. The butter was a joke, all details are mentioned in the description for each of the tests. My experience with shiny materials like PETG is that they reveal defects much more, especially under harsh lighting like I use during shooting these videos. Retraction settings are all well and good when there are no lingering mechanical problems on the printer. This printer has one and it is fairly big. I'll be releasing a video in a couple of weeks to cover a permanent solution. Thanks for the comment!
I'm asking for help. I just ordered my first 3-D printer ever. I settled on the Ender 3 v2 . Excuse my ignorance but what do I need to get started. And feel free to talk to me like I'm five. Do I need to get any programs for my computer. What are they and how much are they. Am I able to just start with what I have any things later? I'm primarily using it to make miniatures in Tehran for table top game? What is the best material to use for best results? Please I need advice I'm not a technical person I have a five year old laptop.
Sure here are a few tips to get you going: Install Cura, it is easy enough and free as well, it should work on your laptop, but it might be a little slow as many newer softwares would be. If your printer didn't come with glass for the build plate, I'd suggest buying one 235 x 235 x 4mm borosilicate or similar, it helps a lot with leveling, the glass is very flat, the aluminum below it is not, and changes shape as it heats up causing issues with bonding (there are upgrades to solve this later on). Buy some dollar store glue sticks... big ones. It helps for the best adhesion on that critical first layer. Because it bonds so well, when complete pop the plate into the freezer for 10-20 minutes to release the parts. Seems like a tedious process, but it works 100% of the time. I'd suggest using PLA to start, ABS is hard to work with and PETG has its own set of problems. PLA is the simplest, just make sure to keep it dry, recommend some dessicant in a plastic bin to begin with. You don't need an enclosure to print with PETG or PLA I'd suggest to watch an assembly video rather than just using instructions, there are little tips which produce better results, for example, I use a ruler to align the posts so they are exactly parallel. The plastic stock extruder is not great, you'll want to change that out at some point because it might break on you, I'll have a video out soon on a fairly inexpensive alternative, or just buy a metal one, they are cheap. Watch some of my other videos, they'll help you to know more about printing with this printer. I am still getting great results very happy with it. There are struggles of course like anything. It looks so easy from the outside, however when things go sideways on you it takes some problem solving and perseverance to get it solved. I have about 10,000 more tips, I think YT might have a limit on comment length.... One more thing, the bed spring upgrades are cheap, buy the orange/yellow ones, they are stiffer and do a much better job. There are also silicone ones available, I've never tested them, seems to me they'd add too much weight. Good luck!
NeedItMakeIt thanks I have been watching other videos for a while but my printer is getting delivered most likely tomorrow some time. So it's hard to take everything in when you have no printer in front of you. And everything kind of overwhelming now. Not being a tech person. Thanks for the advice and help.
Yeah, 3D printers suck. They need to automate the leveling and standardize the filament settings and whatnot. It shouldn't take so long to level and find "the right settings".
I'm on a bowden setup, I'd suggest using a wee bit of glue stick, I always use it because I'd rather pop it in the freezer than have wonder whether there will be any bonding issues with the build plate. Can you describe your problem?
i have a problem with my prints initial layer that sticks to the bed. i always have a hard time of taking that thin first layer off of my prints any advice?
if you are using Cura, you can click on Shell dropdown and select Z-seam alignment, set to User Specified and choose your position from there. Email me at needitmakeit@gmail.com if you need some screenshots.
Have you tried to print upside-down? Thais way you won't have over hangs Regarding the seam try to make it inside the model (the hole of the leg) what way it won't be visible
I have not, this is a very interesting concept. Regarding the seam, I cannot see a way of getting rid of that transition, my only thought is to treat all models as spiralize layers going from inward to out then out to in. I'm not sure if this would work, but because we basically have concentric outer and inner layers which all require a transition point. Thoughts?
I know you probly wont respond because there is hundreds of comments, but maybe someone else can help me. I have this problem when the nozzle is getting heated the filament will come out of it before printing. but when its time to print none will not come until a couple seconds, I saw you make a line on the side of the plate, can you do that without having to manually do it? like if i wanted to print the dog that was already in the SD card.
I know it's 2 years later but to answer your question, It's a prime strip that is in the start-up gcode. You can add it to the gcode file. Look the in the print start gcode for reference in cura.
Thanks for sharing. Could you test PETG printing with tree support? Because I can get good result without support, but with support it’s a mess with lots of stringing. I print mechanic parts.
Hi! I'm always amazed and thankful for your tips and tricks. It really helps me as I have E3v2 also. Is it okay to ask for your printing profiles? Thanks!
drive.google.com/file/d/1TO6z8dptLZOI2y_eBmG_m4exzY3lLtRi/view?usp=sharing Sure, I'm onto PETG printing now, here is the most recently profile, hope the link works.
With the exception of the vase mode, spiralize 3d printing method, there will always be an area where the layer begins and ends. The simplest analogy being to draw a shape using a continuous stroke, starting at one point and stopping where you began, that spot will not align perfectly. The 3D printer does a little jog inwards to conceal the seam better, but the nozzle diameter and the layer thicknesses seem to have a fair impact on the final look. Have you tried linear advance at all? I believe this may help a bit to conceal it.
You mentioned that you coved combing in another video. Just a tip, always put a link to any video you reference in your description. It makes it soo much easier to find.
For very small parts it is often better to print multiple of them. There is a minimum time per layer or the print doesn't cool enough and pausing between (set your minimum layer time to around 10s) introduces blobs.
If only I had an hi-def IR camera, we'd really be able to dive into this more.
Or fix your cooling fans to actually work.....
I almost lost it at the butter
I had to rewind and check that it was butter 😁
Salted. On sale also!
@@NeedItMakeIt wtf
I am a newbie and went out researching if that was something we need to do!
@@mrpbjnance Oh sorry, I like to integrate butter into my videos. There may be a way to use it, if we separate the milk solids from the fats and apply just the solids they may work fairly well as a binder. Best just to use glue stick though. On the other hand the clarified butter can be very tasty and doesn't burn in the pan....
I also make cast iron pan test videos, and I love butter.
the butter is a joke tho...?
Yeah lol, caught me off guard
No! It's the secret ingredient😂
I need to try those since I just got My Ender 3 V2 last week & I’m new to 3D printing in general.
most important step to getting good results is buttering up your print plate 😳
What adhesive do you use
@@sachinsaravanan3664 3DLAC
"Nelly" works really good.
I use Land o Lakes 😏 lol but really, I actually use a decent hair spray on my creality glass bed printing Petg. Works better for me then any adhesive marketed to the 3D printing world that I’ve tried, just a light layer and your golden for a while, then if you notice any issues, clean plate with alcohol then respray, I might have to do that once a month with moderate usage.
@@marv8481 Here in Spain we use the hairspray "Nelly".
It is very good and it takes very little for the PLA or ABS to be sinked into the glass of the bed.
No need to heat the bed at all.
A bottle of lacquer Nelly costs about € 3 or about $ 4 and I can print several kg of filament with it since they are big.
The same brand produces a lacquer for 3D printers, which is exactly the same formula, but without the smell of lacker, and costs 5 times more.
So I advise you to use Nelly hair lacquer instead of another lacker or system, im pretty sure it can even be bought on Amazon.
To remove the printed part in PLA or ABS from the glass, you can put the glass in the freezer 10 minutes also.
Just starting out in 3D Printing. ( as of this comment 😁)
Mostly to Try and get my 11 Year Old Son doing something else with his Tablet than playing games 🙄
He has Good skills for drawing, so I see, 3D Printing as the next level to developing his hobby to another level.
Great to see so much information like this available here on UA-cam.
Of course Subscribed.
Looking forward to learning how to speak another language 😉👍
_"Print one part at a time"_ simple tips but how am I not realizing it. Thank you for mentioning this tips
My pleasure, we'd all like to load up the build plate, in order to do that everything needs to be perfect to get great results. for the rest of us, these tips help a bit.
@@NeedItMakeIt Do you have a profile available for Cura?
@@oneheadlight8000 drive.google.com/file/d/1TO6z8dptLZOI2y_eBmG_m4exzY3lLtRi/view?usp=sharing Try this, it is set for PETG with minimal fan, you can adapt as needed.
@@NeedItMakeIt thank you! I print pretty much exclusively PETG.. around 120 spools of it last year. We just bought 3 ender 3 v2’s and are dialing them in. Your prints look noice!
@@oneheadlight8000 Nice stuff, three wow. Having a few of the same printer makes a lot of sense for replacement parts and repair, interchangeability and the list goes on. Very smart.
Do you have to dry your material before you begin printing with it, how do you handle the moisture absorption, or is it a non-issue for your parts?
Congrats on the layer consistency. A mixture of a very squarely assembled frame, tight belts, correct V-wheel pressure and many other things are required to achieve this.
👍
The butter failed in my testing. The print would dislodge from the plate, and fly across the room. It wasn't until I came across your video that I should have used salted butter. If I only would have known sooner.
Yes, and only use the best quality butter. I like to churn mine a few hours before I need it so I know it's fresh :)
@@BlondieSL Yeah, it's a joke. In case you're wondering, any type of grease is *going to ruin your first layer.* The print will simply not stick.
@Brax W Before you make the obligatory, overused reddit joke, maybe you should take into account that I was replying to someone else's comment. It appears that comment doesn't exist anymore, but my reply still stands. In case someone doesn't get the joke, yes grease will prevent the print from sticking. Now that we got that cleared up, this matter is in my opinion resolved.
@@PunakiviAddikti thanks for telling me, too many people are saying to use grease, it's confusing to a complete beginner
@@hank1845 You're welcome I guess. If you need bed adhesion, use a heated bed at 60 degrees for first layer and drop down to 50 degrees for the rest to help avoid warping. Hair spray is a good adhesion agent.
Man can you do some relaxation videos, why am I not stressed when I watch your videos
Sit back, relax and enjoy the sound of hand-sawing ua-cam.com/video/Mq__TJ6SQ_Q/v-deo.html. Good to know for future videos!
Simple models always print very clear.
I would agree that simple models will generally show better results
The test samples shown in the video clearly show the differences in the techniques used.
@@bikerboy3k no need to make a rude comment, he is simply stating that it shows the difference each setting makes...... thats not defensive at all its simply stating the entire goal of the video.
@@bikerboy3k You are right, as stated in my response. Time to move on, have a good hoiday!
That is true, but this video is educational and if high quality. I have learn something.
@@kundeleczek1 learned* 🙂
In the intro, he slipped that pre printed support in so fast and smooth I almost didn't even notice... well done sir.
I haven't used that trick in quite a while, but it's a pretty cool way to get a smooth bridge, especially if you have repeatable parts to make it worth the time to do. A little tape on top and some glue stick for good measure since the surface is only at room temp.
ok, I was like bruh why you puttin butter on there
Thanks for the "Print Sequence" tip! I was on my way to make a python script just to create a single .gcode from individual parts .gcode files. Nice to learn that!
I have a cheat for printing taller prints also, but it is a bit risky, I'll test it out a bit more before making a video. It involves lowering the hotend and choosing a volcano type hotend also which further drops the hotend down. But there is one more tip that can help but I think it is risky business.
I’ve had a lot of luck with scotch brand blue tape. You can print PETG on it with a 0 degree bed so it saves energy. Sticks really well and can be used several times before replacing it.
0090000
*B U T T E R*
Petg can warp, a heated bed is not just for first layer adhesion. If it were, you'd only have to turn it off after the first layer.
@@alejandroperez5368 I’m saying on blue tape you can print with 0 degree bed with PETG all the way through. No need to turn on the bed if you have the right model.. some require 65 degrees with glue stick, hair spray or blue tape if the model doesn’t have a lot of surface contact. I have never used a brim with PETG in over 300,000 hours of printing
@@oneheadlight8000 you have 34 years of printing experience? LOL.
Drying your filament will also help A LOT. Even with PLA!
If you don't dry your PETG or PLA, it will usually ooze out of the nozzle, even when there's no pressure applied by the extruder. This leads to those blobs shown at 5:00.
Keeping it dry (max. 10% humidity), there won't be any oozing.
Thank you for the information. Which brand of the dryer do you recommend?
@@uhu4677 I'm staking the gel I get from shoes and wherever I find some. I don't have any air-tight box so I'm just using zip bags and placing it on a dry place
this has been driving me crazy, thank you.
Great tip! I'm new to this world and I should have paid more attention to this to start with. Just got my dry box set up and lots of dessicant.
Wouldn't throwing them in a box with silica beads do the same thing?
I've not used random seams since I tried it the first time. It simply introduces very visible surface defects. Took me a while to figure out what was causing these surface defects, but once I did and switched to one seam, all of the defects were gone. Second issue is *random filament stuck to the nozzle.* This will absolutely ruin your print surface once it detaches and gets incorporated into the print. Always get these off.
Hi, can u explain what Setting you chose ?
@@mbikerFR I simply turned off random seam and chose the seam placement to be sharpest corner and random location. Random location is different from random seam. I also tried arc welder which converts multiple points into uniform arcs. This limits the amount of "stops" the nozzle makes when it moves from point to point. Depending on the motherboard, it may cause a very slight pause at each point and some material oozes out, forming a blob.
@@PunakiviAddikti hi can you help me wher to find this? (225C Nozzle, 75C Bed, 78mm Infill, 37mm Outer Wall, 57mm Inner Wall, 45mm Initial Layer) i don't know where to find this it is because im literally newbie on this 3d printing. please help me.
@@daniellejunio1810 There are plenty of 3D printers that can do 225C on the nozzle and 75C on the bed. Infill, outer wall, inner wall and initial layer are controlled by the slicer software.
My man, I thought I was crazy, or it was just my setup. I tried printing 6 parts I had customized, all came out crap, thought it was my settings and .8m nozzle. Just for a test did them on their own, and all came out beautiful. Thank you for the sanity check.
been there done that
Is the butter a serious thing or was it a joke?
So... no one is gonna mention the butter O_o
wait - buttered bed and glued bed? did you both ?
I get my best petg results using 255c on the nozzle and 25% fan and a flow rate 95% also slow down the retract and advance speeds 25mm/s this seems to help with blobbing somewhat. also make sure its printing perimeters FIRST then infill and not its default of infill first then perimeters.
Why perimeters before infill?
@@bc4ke a couple of reasons first when the plastic hardens it doesn't exactly push out of the way so when you print infill first and then the perimeter the infield pushes the perimeter out where it intersects this is why you sometimes see the infield stick out on models people print
Second the inflow intersects the perimeters and you want them to for strength it helps to build proper info when it touches the perimeter outside edge of the model but if you're printing a button fill first there's no Edge to attach to yet I can't think of a single good reason to print infill first
Maybe Switch to margarine as a more cost effective Butter option.
Margarine is a type of plastic correct?
Matching you're jerk settings to you're speeds and using acceleration when needed helps a little especially with corners with over 50° angles edges
YOUR!
I substituted my usual hairspray for "I can't believe its not butter" and couldn't get the filament to stick. is there a certain type of butter I need to get?
Thank you sir! New subscriber...
Look for the butter with the highest butter content, 100% butter is best. If you can find 110%...even butter :)
Gotta get the one that used to be racist.
Here's another tip I only started doing recently:
If you use a newer build of Cura with a Creality printer (maybe others as well), your nozzle does a purge line on the corner of the bed. It's probably 10cm long. Adjust the start gcode so it's only 5cm - all it's doing is priming the nozzle. Now, since that's getting your nozzle primed, you don't need to print a skirt anymore around the perimeter of the print, so go ahead and set the build plate adhesion to "None" (assuming your prints typically stick to the bed reliably after printing skirts). This knocks a small amount of time and material use off of your prints, which adds up over time. This is especially important if you want to operate a 3D printing business, because lean is the name of the game for that.
For sure, the main reason that I leave a brim or skirt on is to make sure the previous filament is purged out properly from the nozzle. It isn't too professional to have a mix on that first layer only to find out when the print is finished.
Valid points though, thanks!
Skirts are necessary for first layer Z-offset calibration at the start of each print. Something you will most likely have to deal with on cheap 3D printers and considerably large prints.
That's too tiny to even care. And a skirt should always be used, no exceptions.
@@Ibian666 why is a skirt so necessary?
@@haqeeqee Primes the flow.
The print sequence option on Cura....VERY helpful. I tried it and am hooked. Have to plan out placement of parts to prevent the gantry from hitting it but otherwise, very helpful. Thanks very much for posting this. Made a huge difference!
I've thought about other ways to improve this, printing with PLA and ABS seem to be very forgiving with stringing compared to PETG. I've just downloaded the newest version of CURA, super curious to see what is inside that could be helpful.
Printing slower and not too hot always help me for improve the quality of my prints
Very true, slower usually yields better results. Many of my prints are for customers and I don't always have time to wait so I've brainwashed myself to thinking everyone needs to print fast. I suppose that could make for a good comparison even for my own knowledge.
How slow is too slow? I would assume at some point it will not produce a better quality.
@@NeedItMakeIt if the print have steep overhangs the slow speeds sometimes work against you. The heat of the nozzle dont let time to cooldown the overhang and make things worse. Sometimes i add a second part if what im printing is too small. Sorry for may bad english, is not my first language
If you want less visible random z-seams, you can also enable coasting, which turns of the filament feed while near the z-seam.
2:50 No Name butter … hello fellow Canadian! 🇨🇦 😎
Jesus 3:20 I timed it wrong but my God was that first layer so clean. I've yet to manage how to do that with my printer
Try printing outer walls first in the Cura settings. It depends on the geometry of the part but it can help (not for overhangs).
I will try that, thanks for the tip. Not for overhangs because it loses the added bond to plastic adjacent to it?
@@NeedItMakeIt Correct.
Did you just use butter to help adhesion? Big brain move.2
It is a pun put into video. What does big brain move. 2 mean?
@@NeedItMakeIt I miss-clicked the 2 there. Didn't realise it was a joke, nice one, I completely fell for it.
@@adriandelhoyo Haha, no worries, I like butter so I try to add it to my videos whenever possible. Maybe I'm sick? I thought maybe you were referencing a sequel to a movie... shows what I know. Have a great one.
TLDW; butter for delicious parts.
Build-plate lickin good?
Just a heads up the borosilicate glass plate link is unavailable
Thanks, I just tried it and it does work on my end, I wonder if Amazon.ca links work in other countries?
Nice video, very informative.
Wait....butter? I didn't know you had an easy bake 3d printer.
Your printer has 0.04 z axis resolution so you should print with 0.08, 0.12, 0.16 layer height instead of 0.1, 0.15 and so on, otherwise it will cause artifacts. Also you should try linear advance feature of marlin to reduce seam visibility, because now its huge, and your stock feeder + tmc2208 may struggle with that, i will suggest titan feeder and tmc2209. Random seems is just harmful setting, never use it
Is .02 a good multiple?
Or is .16 better?
@@jessehellakoo The "magic number" is 4. Because with each step from the stepper motor it moves 0.04mm. Doing half steps can reduce quality on budget machines so much that the difference is easily visible. One could mitigate said issue with quality stepper motors but most people don't want to upgrade their printer out of the box.
Same applies to the speed settings. You don't want to set it to 50mm/s. Either 48mm/s OR 52mm/s. Every number that can be divided by 4 without creating decimals works just fine.
I'm lacking the mathematical term as I'm not a native speaker and math was always my nemesis, lol.
@@DrEckig sry but thats not a problem at alll show me a test where you can see diferences. With modern boards microstepping you never have this issue
@@thomaskletzl6493 there you go bud: ua-cam.com/video/WIkT8asT90A/v-deo.html
@@DrEckig thanks buddy. I normally print on 0.12 mill layer hight on my cr10s4 it takes litterly weaks for big parts but i upgraded it to linear rails and the hemera revo the resulsts are crazy
*I used a 4 burner cigar lighter to clean up my PETG.*
I used to use Print One at a Time, but in a previous version of Cura, they changed how it determined the order to do the models (random selection of the models). After having just played with it, it appears they restored the previous ordering (last model loaded prints first).
With the last in/first out ordering, you can arrange the models front to back and you don't have to worry about collisions. You can print any size model by tweaking your carriage settings.
When doing multiple parts, I prefer One at a Time (POAT?) for the exact reasons you covered. Also, if you have a failure, you don't immediately lose an entire bed worth of prints.
Is there any way to import 2 or 3 stl and know their order? Or importing 1 at a time is needed? Cheers
Cura 4.8 has a z seam hiding option. Using smart hiding will eliminate the seam on the outer skin.
I've have tried this feature, but I've not found that it works well for my parts. It looks for sharp corners to place the seams so they are less visible, my parts don't have corners unfortunately, but it could be useful for some people.
@@NeedItMakeIt Yes, it only works best with corners. Even then it can be easily noticeable. I wish there was an option for wipe hiding. Basically, the outer perimeter would start slightly in the infill and move outwards or inwards depending on the perimeter being printed. This would eliminate blobs at the start of the perimeter. It's basically nozzle wiping but in reverse.
I noticed just turning down the nozzle temp helped a lot for me. As long as you have dry filament and your esteps are good you should be good. I use to print super hot right at 220 for PLA. 210-215 helped give me super smooth prints.
Oh wow, i think mine uses 190 for pla
@@shabadooshabadoo4918yea I use 200 and 60 for bed
Butter?? Us newbies are confused!
Yea, I was like did he say butter? and had to replay. I'm hoping it's not for real. I've seen many videos and read lots of posts and no one has mentioned using butter. I'm still somewhat new at 3d printing and have only used PLA but have yet had the need to use anything to make my prints stick. Usually when they don't stick I just slow down the first layer.
Fuzzy option in cura hides the layers and you can make prints look very professional
Great info! I've been printing for a few months and am definitely a noob. I'll be using some of these things
I've been printing for a few years now and I still feel new somedays, there is a lot more to know than one might thing looking from the outside. Thank you for the comment and support!
8:25 ... you can improve that blobbing. It is doing that because it writes a checkpoint to the SD Card it reads from in case of a power failure, so it can resume printing. If it can't write fast enough the buffer will run out and cause a split second delay and the extruder will keep extruding and leave a blob. Either A.) use a SD Card with faster transfer speed or B.) disable resume printing after power failure so it doesn't try to write the checkpoint file.
A video on how to get that soft seam on circular objects would be awesome. I’m troubleshooting on mine but still it dips in too much. would really appreciate some help. (using MS DD and all metal hotend)
enable retraction in your slicer settings (retraction in cura, maybe called something else in your software of choice). It pulls the filament back from the nozzle and generally does a really nice job of eliminating blobs and other defects where the nozzle stops for a second before changing direction. I have mine set to 7mm retraction length and my surface finish is usually near perfect. Unless I do what I did an hour ago and let my printer run out of filament. Whoops.
@@FurryKeidran98 nah, he's talking about circular objects. There's no way to hide it there
Thanks so much for this video, ive had multiple issues with just one roll of red filament, turned on combing and one at a time and suddenly my prints are flawless, brilliant :)
No problem, lots more videos like this to come and some other really cool and unique ideas also. I was hoping that some of these tips could help!
How do you turn on combing? I'm using a ender 3v2 and creality slicer
Hi David, Sorry I use Cura, but assume there is a setting in the Creality slicer somewhere @@davidhogue100
At 3:05 why did your printer print a line on the side of the bed? I have an artillery sidewinder x1 and I’m coming along after finally getting the files to show up on cura and am working on the benchy and mjolnir but a new problem is that it starts printing on the side but then keeps going so the filament wraps around the nozzle and pulls any that was on the bed around with it. how do I prevent that or how do I just get it to cut off like yours did?
This can be setup in the startup Gcode script in your slicer, I've modified mine a bit to shorten it, the clips at the front and back were being hit on occasion and I wanted to avoid that. Here is the code, and you should be able to add it to your slicer without too much trouble.
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
I've had the problem you are talking about with my Anet A8, the code shown above helps a lot to prevent this from happening.
Good luck and let me know if you need help.
Thank you so much
Lol, i can't even install marlin properly let alone do anything in this video.
The Channel CHEP has some tips for firmware updates. I had problems with this out of the box and it caused me lots of trouble with under extrusion, his videos helped me for sure.
@@NeedItMakeIt Hi, I'm a 3d printing noob who borrowed my father's select mini v2 to learn and recently bought myself a ender 3 v2, after almost a week of troubleshooting and tearing and rebuilding it 3 times I figured out my glass plate is bad (noob mistakes) and no amount of tweaking will give me a good bed level so I removed it and can finally start printing but I've never messed with the firmware, is it good to update it to latest when released or is it more of a "if it ain't broke don't fix it" kinda thing? Just curious what I should do If my prints are already coming out good?
@@BlondieSL it doesn't have the bed leveling sensor, but it came prepared for the bltouch on the motherboard. There's a bltouch firmware available on the creality website that works oké. I run a version of marlin that is a bit easier to modify.
It's all in all a really complete printer for the money, although I find the rollers somewhat unstable and very high maintenance. I'm considering upgrading to linear rails on all the axis, but some say it makes the prints worse.
Out of the box performance is just as good as a prusa MK3S.
New sub. Why do the program spots to start a new layer? Wouldn't it be better for it to keep going to the next layer in the same motion, especially since your going around in a circle? Like vase mode.
Glad to have you!
I'd have to think very hard about this, but I believe it is not possible. At least not currently possible. In vase mode there is only 1 wall layer, a continuous motion upward is possible except for the bottom and top layers. When printing these normal parts the entire part must be filled in, the nozzle would travel up, then down, and so on until the entire layer(s) is complete. What you may be looking for is called non-planar 3D printing (true 3d printing). I'm sure in a few years we will have the ability to do this at home with some limitations.
Matthew, use the slicer's visualize feature and step through one layer at the time (i.e., super slowly) to see how the print progresses. This is a fantastic feature.
Wait, WHAT???!!?!? You use a lubricant as your adhesion agent???? Yeah this is for sure something I’ve never heard of!
Running joke on the channel...
At 0:20 you drop a printed disc into a printing part. Was that done to provide support for layers to print on top in the printing part? Did you apply anything to the printed disc to prevent "welding"?
I wouldn't use butter but I do leave some margin
Just discovered your channel.. Very cool tips all around Tks..
Your print quality is very good overall.. Would you mind sharing your cura print profiles to take a general look (and maybe copy parts of it)?I use a standard .4 nozzle, but might move to .6 after you show your results.. (mostly focused on practical prints myself, not figurines and such)
Also, always wondering what needs to change and what not as I switch between different materials (PETG, PLA, TPU, Nylon) and different layer heights.. Maybe an idea for a video..
It's probably extreme for demonstration at 01:00, but in the first example of two parts, those prints are waaay too far from each other and i doubt anyone would arrange the prints like that, just the travel time spent between the parts is probably quite a few percent and it would be an invitation for stringing, a distance of 1mm between two parts is enough, not half the buildplate.
Hi NeedItMakeIt, and i was just wondering if you could help me get better printer results, I have an ender 3 pro and I've had trouble for a long time trying to make my prints look nice, but they have always had some kind of defect in them. I've tried everything like I' got a new extruder, I calibrated the E steps for the extruder, and i even got a new hot end too, it would be really helpful if you were able to help me out with. i could also show you pictures of the prints to, Thank you
Sure, send me some pics, a video of a print with the issues is also helpful, sometimes these can be tough to identify without knowing all of the variables and your settings.
How do you pick seam location?
Go to the heater "Walls" go down and select "User Specified" and choose your corner or x/y location that you'd like. I'm currently looking at PrusaSlicer, they have a feature to Paint on the seams, one problem... I can't get the print to start yet, I need to fiddle a bit more with it.
I have this same song in my drone racing video! Haha
I do this as well as adjusting the retraction speed and distance for the type of filament I am using. This allows me to print multiple prints without messy cleanup. The blobbing effect is what happens when the filament pools up in the nozzle the pressure causes it to push out as it leaves the part to go the next part. There is also the stringing effect people get. The combing setting and z hop will help eliminate this. I get very little if almost like slight spider web like whisp of string at the most now, nothing a swipe from my small butane torch doesn't eliminate in a poof, gone. Even a good heat gun would do the job. No blobs and all calibrations set. With all of that you can really dial in a printer to go above the bar of what they do out of the box. With a little tweaking that is. 😁👍 Good video!
I would say that plastic is overheated...
Can you elaborate a little bit on this, how can we determine if it is overheated?
@@NeedItMakeIt just take a look at its fluidity. I prefer to print at the lowest temperature bound, in that case you will have less smudges and strings. Try to reduce your temperature settings by 5-10-15 degrees and compare.
Heyyy i got a problem with my ender 3 V2. Everytime i print, on the highest spot of the print i get blobs or bad quality. Im really new, so please help
I heard ark welder add on in cura upgrades prints
Nice video. I'm new to 3s printing world and I have a ender 3 v2 but my bad is different that yours. Why do you change the bed? I also have problems of adhesion to bad I used hairspray but all the videos I see people don't use anything on default bed. Why do I need to? I have a leveled the bed and the level test is printing very nice don't know what to do anymore
temperatures, perhaps
@@philmor1776 im using default 200 ad 60 o bed i tried to change no luck there
@@marine1718 , I had to go to 210 and 70 on the textured side of the glass Or things simply would not stick. Bed temperatures especially seems important. On the smooth side I could go to 200 and 60, But I had to use hairspray or glue, glue sucks, it messes up the face. Ya know what worked well for me (on the smooth side only). MILK, brush on some evenly and let dry. BTW clean bed well first. I use DAWN dishwashing liquid, rinse really well and let dry, then use whatever.
Are you printing ABS, PETG or PLA? ABS is hard to get to stick, Nano adhesive works super well, I have a video on that, if you are using PETG or PLA regular dollar store glue stick works very well.... too well most of the time, I need to put my prints into the freezer to release them.
@@NeedItMakeIt I'm using pla. With original glass u are not suppose to use glut right?
Does bro actually use butter on his 3D printer?! 💀
Twas a joke.... I was just buttering you up.
I am using "Fuzz" to have an imperfect finition wich is quite good actually.
That works too, the fuzz will cause your print speed to slow quite a bit and also it can also cause far too much for your slicer to process depending the Fuzz-e-ness a more coarse fuzz works just fine though and looks good to me as well. For PETG it helps to avoid that sheen too.
I use an Elegoo Neptune 2S, but I hope this helps. 🤞🏻
I printed with PETG-CF yesterday and I loaded the buildplate, unfortunately even with a fast printer I still had blobbing between travel moves, for the best results, print separately or use this feature if you are able to.
8:05 01100101 you missed a zero so u r rude :-P
You dropped a couple of bits at the end there. Your e's are only 7 bits long, they're missing an extra 0 in the middle. Great videos though, and I still subbed :)
Lol butter
Does the ATF know you're printing suppressor baffles ??
WTF is ATF?
Ask your DoG, he DESPISES and fears the ATF
Im trying to print carbon fiber and doing testing with PLA, but as soon i changed the Firmware the printer do not print like yours anymore. Not sure if was the new cheap PLA. Any feed back that you can give me on this matter ?
It could be that you need to recalibrate your e-steps. Can you link an image so that we can have a look? If you're printing CF filament you may have a nozzle clog or your extruder gear is worn. This small sample did quite a number on mine and I took the gear off to re sharpen the teeth to points. Amazing stuff, but it can cause us some trouble.
Can you mark 110 mm on the filament before it goes to the extruder and then set your printer to extrude that amount, that if the mark is 10mm away you're in good shape. If it is too close or too far, you'll have over/under extrusion and that can lead to some minor to major problems in your prints. Sorry if you know this already, I don't know what you know.
Man, what microphone are you using? It sounds amazing compared to most!
I believe this was the zoom H1N mic, i still use it when i script, some is off script and it is easier to use the phone mic or BT lapel mic in those cases. I also edit out the bad sounding stuff and do a little noise reduction in DaVinci resolve
On a circular single part why is there a need for a seam at all? Couldnt it just comb inwards while adjusting the z height and continuing to print? My printer arrives in two days be gentle lmao.
This method is known as the VASE mode, it is possible right now. If you have multiple walls, it is not currently available. I think your idea is possible in some cases in a spiral type motion from in to out and then up, then from out to in, but it would still have a seam where the beginning and ends of the extrusion are. There are a few other ways to get better seams which I did not discuss, they'll be in future videos. Linear advance is one, nozzle diameter is another. Smaller diameter = better seams, but at the cost of much longer print times and weaker parts.
Lol, butter? Is this a joke vid? I honestly can't tell. We're trying to fix stringing and zits here, it seems, yet there's no mention of dialing in retraction settings. What was the point of randomly switching to an entirely different filament/material in the 5th sample? The only thing that makes sense here is that yes, combing helps, and yes, printing one thing at a time helps (no travels).
I've covered many of them in previous videos as well, I like the keep these videos short and sweet with an emphasis on showing the tests and results in detail. The butter was a joke, all details are mentioned in the description for each of the tests. My experience with shiny materials like PETG is that they reveal defects much more, especially under harsh lighting like I use during shooting these videos.
Retraction settings are all well and good when there are no lingering mechanical problems on the printer. This printer has one and it is fairly big. I'll be releasing a video in a couple of weeks to cover a permanent solution.
Thanks for the comment!
NeedItMakeIt, I've only seen two of your videos so far, and I think you are doing a great job. Best of luck in 2021.
yeah my prints do a weird bumpy at the bottom sometimes. only in spiralize surface mode though
2:48 Butter????? Did you really use *Butter* for build plate adhesion?!?!?!
No just my odd sense of humor, I like to inject butter into my videos randomly.
can you make tutorial for octaprint?
Thanks for sharing the wealth! Much appreciated, will pass forward
I'm asking for help. I just ordered my first 3-D printer ever. I settled on the Ender 3 v2 . Excuse my ignorance but what do I need to get started. And feel free to talk to me like I'm five. Do I need to get any programs for my computer. What are they and how much are they. Am I able to just start with what I have any things later? I'm primarily using it to make miniatures in Tehran for table top game? What is the best material to use for best results? Please I need advice I'm not a technical person I have a five year old laptop.
Sure here are a few tips to get you going:
Install Cura, it is easy enough and free as well, it should work on your laptop, but it might be a little slow as many newer softwares would be.
If your printer didn't come with glass for the build plate, I'd suggest buying one 235 x 235 x 4mm borosilicate or similar, it helps a lot with leveling, the glass is very flat, the aluminum below it is not, and changes shape as it heats up causing issues with bonding (there are upgrades to solve this later on).
Buy some dollar store glue sticks... big ones. It helps for the best adhesion on that critical first layer. Because it bonds so well, when complete pop the plate into the freezer for 10-20 minutes to release the parts. Seems like a tedious process, but it works 100% of the time.
I'd suggest using PLA to start, ABS is hard to work with and PETG has its own set of problems. PLA is the simplest, just make sure to keep it dry, recommend some dessicant in a plastic bin to begin with.
You don't need an enclosure to print with PETG or PLA
I'd suggest to watch an assembly video rather than just using instructions, there are little tips which produce better results, for example, I use a ruler to align the posts so they are exactly parallel.
The plastic stock extruder is not great, you'll want to change that out at some point because it might break on you, I'll have a video out soon on a fairly inexpensive alternative, or just buy a metal one, they are cheap.
Watch some of my other videos, they'll help you to know more about printing with this printer. I am still getting great results very happy with it. There are struggles of course like anything. It looks so easy from the outside, however when things go sideways on you it takes some problem solving and perseverance to get it solved.
I have about 10,000 more tips, I think YT might have a limit on comment length....
One more thing, the bed spring upgrades are cheap, buy the orange/yellow ones, they are stiffer and do a much better job. There are also silicone ones available, I've never tested them, seems to me they'd add too much weight.
Good luck!
NeedItMakeIt thanks I have been watching other videos for a while but my printer is getting delivered most likely tomorrow some time. So it's hard to take everything in when you have no printer in front of you. And everything kind of overwhelming now. Not being a tech person. Thanks for the advice and help.
I have not even been able to get my Creality Ender 3 V2 to print correctly.
Yeah, 3D printers suck. They need to automate the leveling and standardize the filament settings and whatnot. It shouldn't take so long to level and find "the right settings".
try prusa. I find the way it deals with seams so much better, and now you can even paint the location you want it to be
I may just do that. It sounds like it has some extremely useful features. Thank you for the tip!
ua-cam.com/video/3thCNTS0i4o/v-deo.html
I had to give a like just because of the work you put in for the buttered build plate B-roll
Thank you! I would like to add more humor in my vids, but it seems people take them seriously...
Sorry if I miss this into in your description or comments, are you using Direct Drive or Bowden setup? I’m struggling with PETG first layer on DD.
I'm on a bowden setup, I'd suggest using a wee bit of glue stick, I always use it because I'd rather pop it in the freezer than have wonder whether there will be any bonding issues with the build plate. Can you describe your problem?
Hay I have problem lines up and down on my longer lk1 can you help
Could you send an email to needitmakeit@gmail.com with some photos and if you want, send me the part to test on my printers.
i have a problem with my prints initial layer that sticks to the bed. i always have a hard time of taking that thin first layer off of my prints any advice?
You mention that seams should be placed at the corners if you have any, how do you select where they go?
if you are using Cura, you can click on Shell dropdown and select Z-seam alignment, set to User Specified and choose your position from there. Email me at needitmakeit@gmail.com if you need some screenshots.
Have you tried to print upside-down?
Thais way you won't have over hangs
Regarding the seam try to make it inside the model (the hole of the leg) what way it won't be visible
I have not, this is a very interesting concept. Regarding the seam, I cannot see a way of getting rid of that transition, my only thought is to treat all models as spiralize layers going from inward to out then out to in. I'm not sure if this would work, but because we basically have concentric outer and inner layers which all require a transition point.
Thoughts?
@@NeedItMakeIt good luck 😅 hope it will work out for you
I know you probly wont respond because there is hundreds of comments, but maybe someone else can help me. I have this problem when the nozzle is getting heated the filament will come out of it before printing. but when its time to print none will not come until a couple seconds, I saw you make a line on the side of the plate, can you do that without having to manually do it? like if i wanted to print the dog that was already in the SD card.
I know it's 2 years later but to answer your question, It's a prime strip that is in the start-up gcode. You can add it to the gcode file. Look the in the print start gcode for reference in cura.
@@KJMcLaws since then I figured my 3d printer is just junk, i replaced the filament feeder with aluminum one because the normal plastic one was broke.
Mid print you add a supporting part. 00:19 How do you get this not to stick please.
Thanks for sharing. Could you test PETG printing with tree support? Because I can get good result without support, but with support it’s a mess with lots of stringing. I print mechanic parts.
Hi, I can throw a test together, are you able to link a photo, or send a photo to needitmakeit@gmail.com
also what's with pl5as5?
Can you please clarify the question PL5AS5?
@@NeedItMakeIt the binary code on your fridge translates to it :)
@@NeedItMakeIt An honest mistake? 0110101 instead of 01100101?
You can do z-hop to jump between travels so it won’t drag nozzle across the surface
Yes, I always have z hop turned on, though I haven't played with the height setting and with wear on the nut, it will lose accuracy over time.
I was taking this video seriously until he was smearing butter on the build plate....
No humor, sad.
@@NeedItMakeIt just made me hungry.
What's with the butter? I'm new to this 5days new.
It is a running joke with my channel, don't use butter, it will make them release very easily.
Hi! I'm always amazed and thankful for your tips and tricks. It really helps me as I have E3v2 also. Is it okay to ask for your printing profiles? Thanks!
drive.google.com/file/d/1TO6z8dptLZOI2y_eBmG_m4exzY3lLtRi/view?usp=sharing Sure, I'm onto PETG printing now, here is the most recently profile, hope the link works.
@@NeedItMakeIt thanks mate! ^_^ really appreciate.
Have you tried just using outer wall wipe distance instead of going through the trouble of printing one at a time and dealing with those limitations?
cant they find a way to put the seam in the infill, so everything would be seamless
With the exception of the vase mode, spiralize 3d printing method, there will always be an area where the layer begins and ends. The simplest analogy being to draw a shape using a continuous stroke, starting at one point and stopping where you began, that spot will not align perfectly. The 3D printer does a little jog inwards to conceal the seam better, but the nozzle diameter and the layer thicknesses seem to have a fair impact on the final look. Have you tried linear advance at all? I believe this may help a bit to conceal it.