You need to use cubic or gyroid infill rather than the square infill. That will help the stability of the actual shoe. I would recommend gyroid as it would retain the flexibility while also being more stable.
Triangles gives the most rigidity in Z direction for TPU, in my experience. Cubic is almost as good in Z and better if you want rigidity in other directions, like if you'll be printing the object on an angle. Gyroid is considerably softer.
@@daliasprints9798 To be transparent, I have no experience with TPU. My thought is that you don't want as much rigidity as possible you want some flex because it's a shoe not a solid part. The problem comes in when he's using square infill that doesn't support properly. I think maybe just putting more into the print time with more infill but gyroid so it gets more rigidity while retaining some flex.
@@clayman0430 For soles/support, you almost surely want close to the full rigidity the TPU can provide. 15-20% gyroid is going to feel soggy and painful to walk on. 40% gyroid is probably ok but saving time and material/weight with 15-25% cubic makes much more sense.
I managed to get something working for my final year at uni that takes foot scans to modify the density. It could go possibly go further to taking in more aspects such as weight and height of a person.
I print a lot of TPU for my online business. All of our products are TPU. TPU has very different physical characteristics depending on how it's printed. For soles, I'd print 4 mm on the bottom, 4 perimeter layers, 25% infill and 3 mm for the insole. For the uppers I'd print 2 outer layers (.9 mm) and 10-25% infill. You don't need expensive and difficult to print low durometer TPU for most flexible parts. Use 95A TPU and reduce the outer layers to get the flexibility you need. The only caveat would be enough layers for durability without being too stiff.
Some time ago I was also playing around with pretty much the same shoe files and one thing to keep in mind is the settings for printing the soles. I would recommend setting multiple solid bottom layers, depends to the nozzle and layer size used this would differ but it is good idea to have at least 2mm solid layes at the bottom, better 3-4mm, then middle of the sole can be with least infill and the top part of the sole with a little more. The idea is to have a good bottom which can handle the abuse and prevent getting pierced by glass, nails or whatever on the ground, soft middle that will make it springy and comfy and then be a bit more rigid at the top so that the foot won't just sink in too much. I got best results using honeycomb for the infill, 3mm solid bottom with 20% infill in the middle and then 40% at the top.
I made sneakers and they work great, I wear them daily, at cross country practice, when working in mud (waterproof) Sliders aren’t as realistic as the final surface finish isn’t as comfortable on bare feet as traditional foam ones are Shoes will typically have a cheap insert so the finish doesn’t have to be as perfect
you need more infill for the bottoms of the shoes to stop them from collapsing, also your creality printer could use a direct drive upgrade to print flexible filaments better
As you further explore 3D printed shoes you should look into variable infill, for a shoe sole you want different parts to have different amounts of flex and support, which can be done by varying the density of the infill in specific areas!
I would love if you expanded on this and made some awesome, innovative shoes in the future! I'm a fan of 3d printing and I really like the idea of making your own shoes nobody has.
2 questions: 1 - what if u cut the back off of the gyroid and turned it into a slipper design? and 2 - is it possible to switch filament type mid design so that the sole is firmer and the upper is ninja and more flex/comfortable?
I think that the changing of the Material should be possible. Because in 7:39 He was able to change the color. But i don't know if it is different if you use different materials.
@@schachtelonas1457 it is very much possible to set it up in the slicer, telling it in which layer you want to swap, and what type of settings that is to be used from that point on etc. Most anything you can think of can be done
2 yes, you’ll need to pause the print and switch materials (hard line) or have a printer that can use two materials. Then the materials have to be compatible or the two half’s will pull apart You can also design the shoe to use one material and still be stiff enough the bottom and flexible in the top, talking from experience
Would love to see a sole cushion comfort design contests 4x a vid one vid a week, this would really start to push 3d printed shoes into a more realistic idea going forward as well.
you should re-print the two-tone Recreus shoe with a much higher percentage gyroid infill for better cushiony support. I think Cura lets you adjust infill percentage based on how high up in the print you are? Alternately, maybe cut a small hole in the sole and see if you can fill it with some kind of squishy urethane foam
You should use a higher infill and more outer layers. Also, maybe go to as high of a temperature as you can print well at to improve layer adhesion. Just some ideas :)
You should try making snap on faceplates that go over current shoes. I think that would be cool to have a bunch of different designs, but you only need one comfy pair of shoes that you snap the design onto.
I made a ‘real’ pair in high school I Wear them everywhere including cross country practice, they are also waterproof Used fusion 360 forms function Sole infill was lines or cube at 13% for 130lbs TPU Took a month start to finish 4 days to print but that can be reduced to 2 days
Part of the stringing issues you had with the Creality come from that machine being a bowden setup. If you were to swap out the extruder system for a direct drive, you'd get way less.
Hey Seth, For the Gyroid Shoe, maybe you can try to use NinjaFlex in the ankle opening and the filament that came with the Prusa printer so that it will stretch for your foot to fit into the shoe. Or, you can add laces in whatever 3D editor that you use.
Some of the detection features on the Prusa don't always work as intended. For your fan error you may need to turn off fan detection. Those of us who use an aftermarket fan end up having to turn it off. As for the stringing on the new printer...Bowden tube printers need much longer retractions than direct drive printers so that may be the issue. Also since the filament is pushed through a flexible tube that introduces a degree of inaccuracy that can make tuning in settings more difficult. For most normal PLA prints you won't notice this but for the thin wall printing I do with RC airplanes it makes them pretty difficult. This is probably the case for your shoes too because you are pushing a flexible filament through the Bowden tube.
To anyone that does 3D print, the main thing that people don't talk about is the air that melting the filament produces. There have been multiple studies that link them to cause cancer. Please be safe and print in a well ventilated area!!
You may need to change the infill in the sole to be more dense. Every shoe you've printed has not had a dense enough sole. That makes them unable to support your weight.
You need direct drive for the flexible filament to work properly. I highly recommend the Anycubic Kobra, around $300, direct drive and auto bed leveling can't beat it
I got a Creality CR-10 V2 and for 2 years now I have never ever had a failed print even with filaflex or PC. I put my printer in a closet for heat control and use blue tape on printbed.
What material did he use to print this with? Because if its PLA I can't really fathom how it'd be comfortable since PLA would be hard asf. You'd want a more rubbery material.
You can get a pair of sneakers for 15 bucks, done with cheapest TPU will cost like 30$ at least, also you need to pay for power. Looks nice but isn't viable until TPU's became a lot cheaper. Like from Spain! PD: check FLSun SR and V400 if you're planning to buy another printer
You could try making a adidas 4d style series, where you can take different shoes e.g. af1, 990s and attempt to make them have a 3d printed sole. Dont know how it would work but would be interesting
You should have cut a slit in the gyroid shoe where the opening is so you could get your foot in. Plus maybe dress socks would have worked better, those thick socks are a hindrance when trying new shoes to see if they fit. Other then that, awesome video and prints! It would be nice to see a follow up video on the before and after adjustments and durability of the shoes/sandal.
I have designed and printed a pair, in the end it takes only one roll $40 TPU To get to that point I used up 3 rolls in trial error To someone downloading a file unless there were directions given for what settings to use for what weight it will probably take another role for testing infills I use 13% grid or lines (I forget) the sole was at least 2cm thick for my weight 130lbs
Great video, I really like your content that's why I recommend you to search for better sponsors, Opera has sold users information, but great video over all
I do still think this is the future, we are in the time of computers filling a room in comparison to 3d printing in 10-20 years it will be amazing what we will be able to print
You need to use cubic or gyroid infill rather than the square infill. That will help the stability of the actual shoe. I would recommend gyroid as it would retain the flexibility while also being more stable.
Triangles gives the most rigidity in Z direction for TPU, in my experience. Cubic is almost as good in Z and better if you want rigidity in other directions, like if you'll be printing the object on an angle. Gyroid is considerably softer.
@@daliasprints9798 To be transparent, I have no experience with TPU. My thought is that you don't want as much rigidity as possible you want some flex because it's a shoe not a solid part. The problem comes in when he's using square infill that doesn't support properly. I think maybe just putting more into the print time with more infill but gyroid so it gets more rigidity while retaining some flex.
@@clayman0430 For soles/support, you almost surely want close to the full rigidity the TPU can provide. 15-20% gyroid is going to feel soggy and painful to walk on. 40% gyroid is probably ok but saving time and material/weight with 15-25% cubic makes much more sense.
@@daliasprints9798 I'll have to experiment with it a bit, I just recently got my first spool of TPU.
My thought for the Gyroid was 50% thought.
that's what I've been saying. not sure why he doesn't get this. i actually said this on his last video (specifically I said gyroid)
To me, the potential of 3d printed shoes is in making custom fittings based on 3d scans of your feet
I’ve been thinking about buying a 3D printer exactly for this.
Adidas makes a shoe with some 3d printed parts
I managed to get something working for my final year at uni that takes foot scans to modify the density.
It could go possibly go further to taking in more aspects such as weight and height of a person.
nice try, aint sendin my feet nobody
I print a lot of TPU for my online business. All of our products are TPU. TPU has very different physical characteristics depending on how it's printed. For soles, I'd print 4 mm on the bottom, 4 perimeter layers, 25% infill and 3 mm for the insole. For the uppers I'd print 2 outer layers (.9 mm) and 10-25% infill. You don't need expensive and difficult to print low durometer TPU for most flexible parts. Use 95A TPU and reduce the outer layers to get the flexibility you need. The only caveat would be enough layers for durability without being too stiff.
Wow! Do u have a link to ur business?
Some time ago I was also playing around with pretty much the same shoe files and one thing to keep in mind is the settings for printing the soles.
I would recommend setting multiple solid bottom layers, depends to the nozzle and layer size used this would differ but it is good idea to have at least 2mm solid layes at the bottom, better 3-4mm, then middle of the sole can be with least infill and the top part of the sole with a little more.
The idea is to have a good bottom which can handle the abuse and prevent getting pierced by glass, nails or whatever on the ground, soft middle that will make it springy and comfy and then be a bit more rigid at the top so that the foot won't just sink in too much.
I got best results using honeycomb for the infill, 3mm solid bottom with 20% infill in the middle and then 40% at the top.
Man Dave absolutely killed it with his design. You should get into contact with him for a custom Seth Fowler 3D shoe.
Sign me up!
you should put some (flex seal) on the bottom for wear and tear.
good video as always. Next time print with 30-50% infill so the insole doesn't just collapse due to being empty. Enjoyable watch.
Seems like this is maybe not very realistic for sneakers, but for slides or house slippers I can see 3D printing having a lot of potential…
I made sneakers and they work great, I wear them daily, at cross country practice, when working in mud (waterproof)
Sliders aren’t as realistic as the final surface finish isn’t as comfortable on bare feet as traditional foam ones are
Shoes will typically have a cheap insert so the finish doesn’t have to be as perfect
@@hellothere6627
Nice! How many iterations did it take you to get it working as you wanted it to? Do you have the files for it?
I'm so glad you're still doing this! I'd love to see you work on the design for an actually good, nice looking 3d printed shoe.
you need more infill for the bottoms of the shoes to stop them from collapsing, also your creality printer could use a direct drive upgrade to print flexible filaments better
So glad that you are getting into 3D printing!
As you further explore 3D printed shoes you should look into variable infill, for a shoe sole you want different parts to have different amounts of flex and support, which can be done by varying the density of the infill in specific areas!
I would love if you expanded on this and made some awesome, innovative shoes in the future! I'm a fan of 3d printing and I really like the idea of making your own shoes nobody has.
2 questions: 1 - what if u cut the back off of the gyroid and turned it into a slipper design? and 2 - is it possible to switch filament type mid design so that the sole is firmer and the upper is ninja and more flex/comfortable?
I think that the changing of the Material should be possible. Because in 7:39 He was able to change the color. But i don't know if it is different if you use different materials.
@@schachtelonas1457 it is very much possible to set it up in the slicer, telling it in which layer you want to swap, and what type of settings that is to be used from that point on etc.
Most anything you can think of can be done
2 yes, you’ll need to pause the print and switch materials (hard line) or have a printer that can use two materials. Then the materials have to be compatible or the two half’s will pull apart
You can also design the shoe to use one material and still be stiff enough the bottom and flexible in the top, talking from experience
I think PrusaSlicer supports different infill densities by height so you can make the sole more dense.
love these projects! 👏😎
I agree
Would love to see a sole cushion comfort design contests 4x a vid one vid a week, this would really start to push 3d printed shoes into a more realistic idea going forward as well.
I made 3d printed shoes for my final year project at uni! Managed to get sole feeling like a normal shoe!
Hi mate, have you got any photos? I’d love to see the outcome
@@guneshlord981 hi I can dunno how to show I’ve commented my link but deletes my comment
you should re-print the two-tone Recreus shoe with a much higher percentage gyroid infill for better cushiony support. I think Cura lets you adjust infill percentage based on how high up in the print you are?
Alternately, maybe cut a small hole in the sole and see if you can fill it with some kind of squishy urethane foam
You should use a higher infill and more outer layers. Also, maybe go to as high of a temperature as you can print well at to improve layer adhesion. Just some ideas :)
Cool man! Saw your first shoe vid and left a comment looking for ver 2.0 this is a neat segway but I’d still like to see your second version design!
You should try making snap on faceplates that go over current shoes. I think that would be cool to have a bunch of different designs, but you only need one comfy pair of shoes that you snap the design onto.
I made a ‘real’ pair in high school
I Wear them everywhere including cross country practice, they are also waterproof
Used fusion 360 forms function
Sole infill was lines or cube at 13% for 130lbs TPU
Took a month start to finish
4 days to print but that can be reduced to 2 days
How did know how to scale them? I tried putting them in an software but wasent shure if the would fit
This should be your new series, contacting other 3D print designers and creating something like those Adidas with the printed midsole
Part of the stringing issues you had with the Creality come from that machine being a bowden setup. If you were to swap out the extruder system for a direct drive, you'd get way less.
Why dont you try printing the different parts separately and glue them later? like the midsole, the insole, and the bottom part and all that
Hey Seth,
For the Gyroid Shoe, maybe you can try to use NinjaFlex in the ankle opening and the filament that came with the Prusa printer so that it will stretch for your foot to fit into the shoe. Or, you can add laces in whatever 3D editor that you use.
Some of the detection features on the Prusa don't always work as intended. For your fan error you may need to turn off fan detection. Those of us who use an aftermarket fan end up having to turn it off. As for the stringing on the new printer...Bowden tube printers need much longer retractions than direct drive printers so that may be the issue. Also since the filament is pushed through a flexible tube that introduces a degree of inaccuracy that can make tuning in settings more difficult. For most normal PLA prints you won't notice this but for the thin wall printing I do with RC airplanes it makes them pretty difficult. This is probably the case for your shoes too because you are pushing a flexible filament through the Bowden tube.
If you use the flexible 3d filament its way easier to wear
Try putting spray foam in the sole of the Requius 2.
Are we just not going to talk about 5:11 in this vid? 🤣
He "wasn't seeing that much at all"
To anyone that does 3D print, the main thing that people don't talk about is the air that melting the filament produces. There have been multiple studies that link them to cause cancer. Please be safe and print in a well ventilated area!!
that sucks. I wanted to maybe one day get a 3d printer but if thats the case I might avoid it
Seth when he gets cancer when he remakes all his sneakers in 3D printing: 🗿
@@Conrad45 Just print in a space that you are not in. Or have excellent ventilation. That way it's safe
actually
You can build a simple box with a ventilation shaft attached to it
You may need to change the infill in the sole to be more dense. Every shoe you've printed has not had a dense enough sole. That makes them unable to support your weight.
Great project! 🙌 Gotta love Dave's gyroid shoe
Notification gang Btw this was a great idea but these shoes do look painfull great job seth
For the stringing maybe increase the retraction in your slicer
Hey Seth! Love the videos, but we miss the "If I Designed" series! It would be cool to see how you'd design an Off-White Jordan 13!
You should try using the upper from a normal shoe and try 3D printing the midsole
The 3D printing material isn't free. If I remember correctly, it's actually quite expensive.
You can stretch the sides on Plaza slicer that makes it easier to put it on
They really need a multi-part design. The world doesn't end if a part fails, and you can make the sole more rigid than the walls.
You need direct drive for the flexible filament to work properly. I highly recommend the Anycubic Kobra, around $300, direct drive and auto bed leveling can't beat it
You should do gel filling inside base of shoes. That would solve half of issues
Damn got oregon 8s in tje back ground how much that cost damn
The flip flop would be a nice addition to the yeezy line up, the yeezy flip 250 .
What socks are those? Can’t find them on the website
I got a Creality CR-10 V2 and for 2 years now I have never ever had a failed print even with filaflex or PC. I put my printer in a closet for heat control and use blue tape on printbed.
Higher infill on the heel of the high top would make it useable
1:15 Isnt Opera the company that was doing shaddy business in the past?
interesting. saw printed adidas soles by carbon just today. they look nice! they can print it in 30 minutes. (adam savage video)
What software do you use?
dude if its good plz sell v2 or v3 for a reasonable price though buy yeah
Seth Fowler, you are CRAZY! (in a good way)
Hey Seth where is that shelf in the background from? the wooden one with iron features you use for your sneakers :D
Modify the sanders to have octopus 🐙 tentacles suction cups in the bottom lol 😅
What material did he use to print this with? Because if its PLA I can't really fathom how it'd be comfortable since PLA would be hard asf. You'd want a more rubbery material.
The pair that didnt fit was a pair id buy with a few design improvements like an insole and tread for the bottom
What kind of filament did you use?
Cool! Thanks for trying these and sharing your results! They are very interesting!
After you perfect your spray on shoes. Can we expect a FLDSMDFR food weather machine.
Can you modify the files to fit your needs? e.g. thicker soles, bottom sole grip grooves, etc.?
Pretty sure he could
You can get a pair of sneakers for 15 bucks, done with cheapest TPU will cost like 30$ at least, also you need to pay for power. Looks nice but isn't viable until TPU's became a lot cheaper. Like from Spain!
PD: check FLSun SR and V400 if you're planning to buy another printer
Hey Seth, what printer do you use?
Those black ones are super nice
How much did it cost you like in terms of input
You could try making a adidas 4d style series, where you can take different shoes e.g. af1, 990s and attempt to make them have a 3d printed sole. Dont know how it would work but would be interesting
You should have cut a slit in the gyroid shoe where the opening is so you could get your foot in. Plus maybe dress socks would have worked better, those thick socks are a hindrance when trying new shoes to see if they fit.
Other then that, awesome video and prints! It would be nice to see a follow up video on the before and after adjustments and durability of the shoes/sandal.
Such a cool Idea!
Can you do a 3d print of mules or clogs? I think it will give you the same feeling as shoes but a lot easier to put on when 3d printed.
11:11 does your dog like not have a tail
Please get to look Zellerfeld 3D printed shoes and make a review on them! Best company in the market for suree
YEA MAN DELIVERED PART 2 WE BETTER GET A 3
how you take the measurements?
How long do the 3D printed shoe last for
Keep up the good content, Seth! Nice Video
Theoretically you could do a scan with a xbox kinect and copy your favorite shoe
"I'm gonna print it on my Prusa, because that one should work the best."
Four fan errors later while the Creality is still chugging along...
print your first shoe with the soft flexi material
what printer did you get
You earned my subscription because of this! So much effort for one single video! Love it!
I've been coming up with a new gym shoes, workout sneakers. Going to try this technique. Maybe sell one or a million....
On that Gyroid shoe try slicing the back to try it on. Just a straight slice down the back.
Why not mod the gyroid shoe?
@Seth Fowler check out NIKE X ACRONYM BLAZER LOW 3D print model
We all know why you paused at 5:10
Dude, take the week or 2 to print a gyroid pair with Ninja flex. That looked like the best solution.
How much does a shoe cost in filament to print?
I have designed and printed a pair, in the end it takes only one roll $40 TPU
To get to that point I used up 3 rolls in trial error
To someone downloading a file unless there were directions given for what settings to use for what weight it will probably take another role for testing infills
I use 13% grid or lines (I forget) the sole was at least 2cm thick for my weight 130lbs
5:10 - "I''m not seen.." (silence as you see something of interest)... "...really much at all"
i would rly like 2 see that recreus croc in the ninja flex material
I think you should do a lot of these but mate them to a rubber sole and put in an insole. great video though!
Those are some cool socks!
Change you infill on that 2nd one so its not so squishy
Don't forget your sponsor disclaimer when running adds!
Great video, I really like your content that's why I recommend you to search for better sponsors, Opera has sold users information, but great video over all
grate vid deserves more likes.
I do still think this is the future, we are in the time of computers filling a room in comparison to 3d printing in 10-20 years it will be amazing what we will be able to print
Make a concept video on Yzy x Balenci shoes!!
And the highs are mental looking
I 3D printed a soccer cleat and a mid top size shoe
Real talk the heel laces idea s kind of ill, would like to see Travis Scott Nike collab experiment with this.