20 years experienced technician for household appliances here. U did a fabulous job, your doorfilter is broken in the corner and will let al these hairs and fine dust go through , replace that one and you got a machine that survives the next 10 years
@@on3td I had the same issue, used double sided gel tape to patch and stitched it back together with nylon. 2 weeks in and no signs of weakening yet but I'll keep an eye on it
This is a good example of a design flaw. The principle of the heat pump itself isn't bad. But in this video, which I find really great, you can see that this device cannot function well and efficiently in the long run. No regular user of the device can remove all that dirt. And who is going to completely disassemble their dryer and clean all the components like that? But I think it's very good that this is shown here. Hats off to your excellent work. I hope your dryer will now work well for a few more years, at least until it gets clogged again, which is probably unavoidable. Thank you for the wonderful video. Greetings from Germany. 👍
Appreciate you did the electricity consumption comparison at the end AND (despite same results) posted it! Fascinating to see that most heatpump dryers have near IDENTICAL heatexchange systems.
Faça um vídeo explicando detalhadamente como funciona essa secadora. Se possível com legenda. Meu idioma é o português Brasil, não entendi nada do que foi falado, mas me deixou curioso esse sistema de condensador para secar roupas.@@bootsowen
Good job for someone who’s not a engineer.I work for retail company as an engineer and these heat pump dryers are ok when they’re new however once again these manufacturers are not thinking about the engineers who have to service them…
@@paulb9769I do some white goods repairs and I've just bought one of these same dryers to repair, I may use for my own use or resell? I'm looking for any information before I thanks the plunge to try to fix it. This man is a great repair man and has done a great job. I think your dryer may be leaking due to condenser (evaporator in refrigerator terms or cold side) heat exchanger needs water ways cleaned so that accumulated condensed water can flow to the water drain pump at the back to be discharged, instead this is simply overflowing the drain channel. That's my best guess without seeing it.
Engineers don't service, they put numbers and science together to help develop a design. I think you mean technician. Now, if I engineered this thing, looking at the amount of work put into it, the so-called time just to get it apart, they forgot one important rule that European engineers in general (I know this is from a Korean company but it reeks of European design) I have found do not follow, especially from appliance and car makers: Follow Occam's Razor. If you still don't get it, "keep it simple, stupid!" I've explained in my comment that I would try to reduce complexity by removing the number of fasteners, pieces and putting the dehumidifer assembly in the top on rails behind an accessible panel, eliminating the need for a pump as well as eliminating the need to completely disassemble it to clean the weakest part in the system. Changing the coils to something to make it easier to clean and not as susceptible to debris, dust and other particles would make it so much better. Actually, if anything, the traditional North American dryer design is one of the easiest to fix, so starting with that as a base would be the best method. The whole drum just sits on top of four guide rollers, with open ends, eliminating the half-dozen fasteners, bushing, cover plate and spring clip as well as the whole thing driven by one belt. It also makes getting to the base of the machine easier as well. The cabinets on these dryers are all that makes up the structure and to access most of the components one just removes the front panel of the machine. Granted, we don't put anything to absorb vibration but in our cases, the machines really didn't sit in living spaces, they were often in basements or some other secluded space of the house. Also, it doesn't matter what kind of dryer you have, you should have it cleaned and checked every six months or each year, just like your furnace/heating system, your refrigerator and computer.
Thanks for the video. I stripped down and cleaned my dryer following this. The machine is 5 years old and was FULL of fluff, not just the heat exchanger but packed around the motor, the circuit board and everywhere else. I didn't find it necessary to remove the heat exchanger, I carefully cleaned it in situ with a butter knife and an old toothbrush. The fluff was packed in the gap between the two stages, but not much between the fins.
After an hour of trying to clean the depths of the fins from outside with a little toothpick, I looked up your video. Super informative! It also showed me how futile my attempt was. 😂 let's see what the technician will say or do. My dryer not even five years old and the clothes stay wet.
I love that this video doesn't have any music at all. Just you doing a great job cleaning the machine. BTW, I think there should be a second lint filter just before the fins. Maybe previous owner lost it? If there's no second filter, those fins are going to get clogged again fast. You could just diy a sponge and put it before the fins.
I thought the same and bought a filter, but there is nowhere to fit it, I think some (possibly older) models like mine just don't have that filter and others do. Since I have had it it has stayed clean. I reckon that the laundry that went through it with the previous owners wasn't always washed and was full of dust.
@@bootsowen Older dehumidifiers had loose coils without the fins. Just concentric spirals of tubing packed into a cylindrical block with a fan at one end to push the air through. Strangely enough the refrigerator in our current place also has loose condenser coils inside some ducting with a fan blowing across them as well. Was it as efficient? probably not, but easier to service. One of the reasons I think the North American appliances in the mid-90s and before then were the tops: Simple boxes with clock motor-driven timers often with one motor running the whole show. Were they noisy? Yes. Inefficient? You better believe it, but what is inefficiency when you got a hot steaming set of gleaming dishes from a dish washer within an hour compared to taking at least two hours in a high efficient system only to look crappier in comparison? The same goes with top loading washing machines, yes, they used quite a bit of water but your clothes often came out cleaner than these plastic toys they call major appliances now. Also, if it's better for the environment, why is it we are throwing away appliances more often now (every 3-5 years) due to prohibitively expensive parts and long service call times compared to your grandmother's Maytag that lasted at least 30+ years without much in the way of a hiccup?
Thanks for the video. I followed this to take apart a DV90M50003X as the motor had died and needed replaced. Also cleaned all the radiator fins and straitened out all those that were bent.. it would have been ten times harder without your video so thanks very much.. very detailed and thorough! Motor cost £85 which is much cheaper than buying a new dryer..
Brave man, great job. I had to dismantle the machine too, a Siemens, but largely identical build, to replace the belt. A few tips: 1. Why I never heard anyone talk about this is beyond me, but after a few years, the inside of most dryers are a giant fire hazard due to build-up of lint. Open your dryers every 3 to 4 years and suck out the lint. No wonder these things catch fire so often. Cause of the lint, I suspect, is the next point: 2. These machines need to have the front and rear air seals cleaned after about 4 years of use. * The built up dirt on the seals will severely brake the drum, increasing motor power draw and likely also cause wobbling / disbalance, increasing noise and that will destroy your belt. This is what I had and why I had to replace the torn belt. * But more importantly: The efficiency of the machine will be greatly reduced due to the what-should-be closed air circuit leaking warm, humid air. Power usage will go way up and your wash will take longer to dry. Does your room feel warm and moist after using the machine.... you have a leak. 3. You can clean the machine mostly without disassembly. I did it this way and successfully got over 6 years of dirt removed from the exchanger. * Run diagnostic program 7 (on a Siemens, your machine may differ) to pump off any water in the bottom fixed reservoir. Search 'diagnostic menu dryer' on google or youtube to find out how it works for your machine. For my machine, a Siemens, open duckduckgo.com and search for "55000000070771 ASP". Top hit should be a pdf with all you need to know, written in English. If you use google you will probably only find the french version. * Remove the top removable reservoir * Slowly pour 1.5 liter of hot soap water in the big hole, that sits directly below the top reservoir. * Pump away the hot water using the diagnostic program and repeat the hot soapy water pour two more times. * Optional but recommended: Use compressed are to blow the remaining debris from the exchanger, if you can reach it. Some machines do not allow for front access to the exchanger, in which case you need to use the access vent from inside the door - you need a long extension for your air gun to reach this part. * Next use a vacuum to try and pull any remaining debris out. * Your milage may vary, but this completely fixed my clogged exchanger.
Preventative maintenance. Our dryers in North America are fairly simple in construction. Clean it and the ducting EVERY 6 MONTHS TO EACH YEAR. When using your dryer, after each day of operation, chase the lint trap and ducting with a vacuum cleaner and a crevice tool. If you don't feel comfortable cleaning the dryer or ducting (if you live in North America) get a certified major appliance tech to do it for you. A lot of those dryers are over 20 years old and still operating, even with little to no maintenance done. However, those who don't maintain them meet the often dire consequences of a house fire or when they do get them cleaned, well, there are a lot of videos of duct cleaners spreading years of lint and dirt all over the yard of their and their neighbours' properties. Of course, if I am cleaning my dryers, I like to use a vacuum cleaner instead of a leaf blower, but to each their own.
Thanks for the excellent video! My Samsung heat pump dryer was starting to take a long time to dry after 2 years of operation. I disassembled the machine, cleaned the inside (*lots* of fuzz) and the heat pump unit (clogged with fuzz too), and reassembled. Took around 4 h total. Now the dryer is working perfectly again. I also noticed that the plastic hinges of the removable fuzz filter at the drum were broken and had gaps in the mesh netting, allowing clothes fuzz to escape to the heat pump and eventually the inside of the machine. Fixed that too. Seems really important that that filter is tight and catches all fuzz.
It takes maybe 15 minutes to clean out our ducted dryer here in Canada with little more than a wet and dry vacuum cleaner and a brush resembling a chimney sweep. We try to do this each year. A good rule of thumb is after a day's use, go down inside the lint trap ducting with a vacuum cleaner and crevice tool attachment.
I had same issue with my dryer. With this video I did the cleaning of the heat exchanger and it helped. It took me more then hafl hour 😅 but without the video I would not succed. Thanks .
I only recommend old school commercial style washer dryers. Function over style and it actually is cost effective/ efficient for the slight inefficiency versus complexity and life span.
I am pretty sure that these machines will use way less electric in their lifetime than a heater vented dryer. If they both last as long then this type has to be more efficient.
This is a great video. My drain pump started failing which, in turn, caused the condenser unit to fill up with water and clog up with lint. We were routinely getting an HC error code on the display. Since dismantling the dryer and giving it a good clean out (in addition to replacing the pump), the dryer has been working perfectly.
One thing I did with mine is I got some course filter foam sheets. I cut it to fit the condenser coil to capture all the lint and dust to keep the fins clean.
The Whirlpool units have a filter in front of the condenser coils, while the LG units have a "flush" for the coils that passes water over them to rinse/clean them. I have a Samsung heat pump dryer that's only a year old and we need to keep the condenser coil panel open to let things dry out or our clothes smell musty, even though I've been meticulous about cleaning the coils after almost every load. I even have a portable vacuum cleaner next to the dryer to make sure as little lint as possible gets deep into the coils. It's just a really poor design on Samsung's part.
@AaronClow I have not had issues with the musty smell. As I stated in my post, I noticed the lack of pre filter for this coil so I use a coarse filter media which catches any lint that may get past the first two filters. My coils are really clean still after two years of heavy moderate use of 5x a week. Clothes dry in about 45 min to an hour depending on size of load. Yes samsung needs to add that extra filter in front of the coils!
@@bootsowenyes, absolutely. Your step by step video gave me enough confidence to do it. A credit card is perfect for the fins alignement, instead of a screwdriver.
Love your drive to recycle and save money. You also seem to enjoy it as well, which make it worth it. My tumble dryer broke, but after watching the technician fix it and all the parts on eBay I'm tempted to cancel the insurance and fix it my self too.
I’m stoked to see that I’m not the only one facing this task and this dryer. I’d tried evening short of complete disassembly to clean the coils and drying performance seems to just get worse. Top notch video and guide. Got to keep track of those screws though!!
Great job! Now I have to go through all this on my own. My machine lasted 5 years of intense usage - which was extended warranty period and failed ultimately just one month after. By the way - first thing I did when I saw how much dust goes into the heat exchanger: I made additional sponge filters and placed them in front of radiator. I guess without them it would stop working much sooner.
Could you post a video of what you did making filters? I want to do this. I bought the proper sponge filter but it is for a later model I think so it doesn’t fit my one.
I just cut a rectangle sized 225 by 125 mm simply because that's the size of air intake to heat exchangers chamber. It is made of regular synthetic sponge that comes with computer parts like graphic cards etc. I is about 8mm thick, I guess anything between 5 and 10 mm will be just fine. Just make sure air goes through it without much resistance. It will catch whatever dust made it past the original filter and eventually get clogged, so it's important to take the sponge out and wash away all contamination frequently. Oh, and please mind that dimensions of the DIY sponge filter may need to be different depending on exact model of your machine. Just finished reassembling, soon I'm gonna find out how it works after cleaning the inside... @@bootsowen
Miele uses a double mesh filter and a 5cm thick sponge filter. But for intense use... I'm not sure it would last. And the cheapest costs more than double what an Electrolux costs.
@@iordachenicolaev Mine also has the double mesh and sponge filter and still found fluff and dust in the heasink. What's worse, fine dust with humidity gets compacted inside the heasink so the only way to fully clean it is tear it down. I was thinking on adding a fine cotton filter in front of the sponge to prevent that fine dust getting in.
First class video on cleaning these nightmare machines. A through and intelligent approach. I will only be convinced to buy a heat pump dryer when the manufacturers improve their designs to make them much more serviceable and perhaps even introduce a 'temporary exchange and full factory overhaul' service free of charge within a sensible 10 year full parts and labour guarantee. Otherwise this is just going to be a massive boost to the trow-away society.
I think the more recent ones of these have another filter in front of the fins to catch the last of the crap. I also reckon that the previous owner dried clothes that hadn't been cleaned, like wet workwear, it came from a farm, so dust and dirt in there makes sense. I can't see you getting a 10 year service warranty, but I've been looking for a reason to eat my hat!
@@bootsowenabout that additional foam filter for the heat exchanger. My model, like this one, doesn't have one. I'm considering sticking one in there anyway as I'm in the middle of taking the machine apart and the fluff inside the machine is unbelievable! This despite cleaning the lint filter after every use and regularly vacuuming the bottom one. What do you think of a second filter down at the bottom?
Decided to do the same as you after giving it some thought. Can’t believe how much fluff was inside. Everything was coated, including the pcb which looked like it was wearing a coat! Have had ours for maybe 5 years and just recently it has been taking forever to dry clothes. Anyway, stripped it down completely and got a hosepipe on the heat exchangers. Only way to get all the crud out from between the fins. Have yet to try it out but I’m feeling positive about it being successful. If nothing else getting all the accumulated fluff out from the machine makes me less worried about a possible fire risk! Two things I did different to you. You can leave the door on as it doesn’t stop you taking the front off. And also I left the back panel attached to the drum. Saves removing the circlip from the drum spindle. Just remove the whole assembly together, it’s very light. Don’t think I would have tackled this without watching your video, so well done for taking the time to do it.
Thanks for your tips. I have just bought another, (I like to have a backup) and it needs cleaning too. I have rewatched my video in anticipation of doing this job again and I don't think it is necessary to remove the control panel or the front panel at all. Likewise, as you say, just take the drum and back off together. Hindsight being 20-20. Glad you tired it.
Thanks for this valuable info! Probably the biggest value of this exercise is seeing how this Samsung machine fits together! We have a later model of the same make and similar type. The end-of-cycle singsong (Schubert's "The Trout Quintet") drives the missus bonkers, so I took the machine apart, stuffed the piezo buzzer/sounder with cotton wool, and taped it over. The resultant peace is worth all the effort! 😁
@@bootsowen We tried that, after searching for, and downloading the full manual. Our specific model doesn't have that feature even though it's an obvious and easy one to implement! 😠
Seeing this is a lot like a AC system, (window, mini split, central AC,) in style, I would use a coil cleaner and water combo, spray/soak with coil cleaner then just rinse. I wouldn't bother with compressed air until afterwards as it also dries it off. I hear simply green works very well as well. Very nice work here.
@@bootsowen I apologize for my lack of clarity. Think of heat pumps and understand they are AC. I understand your meaning though. Same tech and also why I made a list, though I should have said heat pump instead of mini split but I was worried that would have been more confusing. I found your video when I was searching for how the internals look in a Samsung Heat pump dryer as I recently got one in the USA. Works amazingly by the way, but I wanted to see what kinds of maintenance I would need to do and your unit was almost identical to mine outside minor differences in power cords. I have experience cleaning condenser and evaporator coils as I have a heat pump mini split and water heater already so I shared what I could to hopefully help. I noticed that UK can only order Simple Green online, but the idea is to use a degreaser. Using a all purpose cleaner/degreaser and let it soak for 5 minutes and rinse off can make quick work of the job.
Thank you very much for showing and explaining. I've the same dryer and with your help I'll try to clean it. Hopefully it'll work properly and long life after that procedure.
Just did this today and came here to see if anyone else had, your vid is almost step for step what I did :) These things are definitely designed to fail. The drain holes on mine were nearly completely blocked and with no easy way to do this maintenance the vast majority will end up getting scrapped when they fail, it’s so wasteful. Hopefully this vid will help lots of people extend the life of these far-from-cheap units, nice work 👍
The repair tech that worked on mine today said they were designed poorly. I have a whirlpool heat pump one and it has a LOT more filter components to keep lint out of there
Having had 3 Whirlpool products in 7 years, 2 replaced because of fire hazard and now the 3rd is making a terrible noise so it has to go. Looked at Samsung heat pump at £700 which has a 5 year warrantee but cleaning the heat exchanger which is an engineer chargeable call out led me to Miele which is at the front and customer friendly to clean the heat exchanger and informs when it needs to be carried out. Cost £1,000 but our experience with 2 Miele washing machines over 45 years is you get what you pay for. In fact When the first machine started giving problems after 20 years, Miele came along to look as a £100 service call and said if the repair was uneconomic they gave us £100 voucher towards a new Miele on top of any discount at purchase. The Miele runs at about 400wH as opposed to Condenser at 2-3kWh Great machines, great Company
Merci pour ta vidéo, je suis ennuyé avec un Whirlpool Freshcare, il mets une erreur E1 F1. J'ai commencer a le démonter sans résultats mais je doutais de le démonter complètement. Tu viens de me motivé à le faire. Merci beaucoup 🙏.
Great to see someone fixing things! I think an additional measurement to consider for performance is time. Would be interesting to see how much faster it was once cleaned!
I don't think it was that much faster, I am using it daily at the moment, and allowing the blades to clog up again, depending on my mood I may take it apart again and give it a powerwashing and do the tests you suggest.
@@bootsowen If you do tear it down again, have a look at where the air might be bypassing or escaping the circuit? Seems odd that there was soo much debris loose inside the casing?
@@madhucksFixed a few. Some have a bad seal between the lint filter and the hole it sticks into, some don't have a seal there at all. If the bottom hinge or closing side-edges of the filter are torn, cracked or poorly aligned, lint will get past the filter that way. Some filter units just have a bad, poorly thought through design that is inherently incapable of making a proper seal along the sides when closing the fold-out filter. Some heat pump dryers, slightly older Whirlpool ones especially, may have poor alignment between the plastic parts of the condenser housing, that the bottom secondary filter unit's seal presses against, forming a sharp uneven ridge across the mating surface of that filter unit's seal. And of that misalignment ridge causes more than a millimeter or so difference in depth, that sharp straight angle ridge becomes too much for the rather stiff seal on the secondary filter unit to conform fully to that surface. Causing a leak past the secondary filter that way. On the most recent one I fixed, the filter unit itself sealed together well, but there was no seal between that and the hole (the lip along the edge that the filter unit rests on). Just plastic on plastic with significant wiggle room. Not even a friction fit, so maybe an oversight in production; it sure seems like there _should_ be a seal there, but no sign of one ever being installed. I just cut to shape and stuck on some low profile silcone rubber seal strip for doors and windows, along the edge that the filter unit rests on. Hasn't seen any more signs of bypassing lint after 4 months of near daily use. But make sure you really clean the surface 100% first, and to buy good quality strip for this, especially the adhesive bit. As most such sealing strip is not really made for this kind of heat. The silicone strip can usually take it, but the adhesive on the cheap stuff tends to give up very quickly because of the heat.
We have a whirlpool heat pump dryer and it has the internal double filter in the doorspace but also has a prefilter before the cooling fins to keep them cleaner. I wish our Samsung one did!
You did a great job on that dryer. I have a candy(Hotpoint) heat pump dryer and I've found that regular cleaning of the heat exchanger fins is a good thing. Those fins are soft & fragile though and so a soft touch is needed.
Thanks for the video! I guess I'll try to skip the full disassembly and just cut holes to the side of the heat exhanger compartment. Doesn't allow as thorough cleaning but probably allows for flushing the water collector at the bottom.
wow amazing as I watch the previous vid about this cant believe you done so much to get it back into shape, I know now who to turn to if I have any problems😉
With the heat pump, I forget about the coils and the extra maintenance that comes with it. I'm constantly cleaning A/C coils because of not replacing the filter or not installing one at all.. Great post thank you brother
Very good video thank you. I have the same machine. Its really annoying you cannot service the heat exchanger without major disassembly. I used to clean our condensor dryer with water to clear the fins.
Lint is getting past the filter. Find the leak and seal it off. Also buy some Calgon no rinse coil cleaner and use it monthly aling with a squirt bottle filled with di water. You don’t want to keep tearing this spart. I had same issue with whirlpool. Cleaned it good once and after 4 years works perfectly.
Great video man. Wish I'd found it 24 hours ago 😀. Spent yesterday stripping our DV90 down as the HC code keeps coming on. I was not brave enough to take the condenser out so cleaned the crud from the fins as best I could from the top with a long thin knife fit nicely and did a good job of unblocking. Only the front bit of the first coils was blocked up. The rest was very clean. Put it back together and it ran a load last might with no error so fingers crossed it worked. Next time it needs maintenence I'll whip the condenser out as well now I've sent your vid! 👍
One of my neighbors had this HC code. Turned out to be a restriction of the outside duct. We took a gas powered leaf blower and stuck in the vent to the outside. Covered his backyard in dryer lint. We guess the 90 degree turns caught a bunch of lint and slowed the exhaust that much. If the wife is home, use an electric leaf blower if you want her to stick around.
You've done an amazing job cleaning those fins that are so close together & fragile!👍 There are videos on cleaning air conditioning condensers that present similar challenges. Sorry its a bit late on this job now 😜 Apparently there's condenser 'combs' that are like metal nit combs that can get between the fins, clean & align them again. Also with foam detergents to get right through the gaps & clean better. Maybe if you ever decide to venture into a future rebuild they may help 👍
As someone who fixes refrigeration devices there is no reason why this dryer couldn't have been made more serviceable. Adding acces panles for the coils and compressor isnt cheap. Theres no excuse for this things poor design. Its intentionally designed to be so time consuming and frustrating to repair that its cheaper to buy an new one. These things are land fill out of the factory and its a travisty that this cool new dryer technology is being ruined like this.
Right to repair ❤ I hate planned obsolescence and anti right to repair design too. The level of autistic behavior mixed with OCD I am takes care of the cleaning. I like doing it once a year
As someone who deals with both refrigeration and household appliances i can tell you they could have also just sold a condensing dryer instead of this engineering nightmare. It’s just about making it more attractive to customers because they can slap a “high efficency” or “saves money” sticker on it. Relieability down the line is their least concern. My advise for washingmachines and driers is Miele brand from between 1990 and 2005. For dishwashers get Bosch silence plus from around 2005. Those are one of the most solid devices i know with good reparability and high quality in the first place.
Been repairing these for a profession and having owning one i think these are ok though..you don't have to dismantle this completely if you don't want; each of the sides can be taken out also without taking other sides out; compressor and drum motor start caps are easy to replace; also water pump. Drum front can be taken out easily.. Also the drum.. One has to be careful with the door- and the condenser filters! (all models won't have the 2nd filter down there).. It'll clog if eg. the door filter hinge is cracked..I've cleaned my own with (having not dismantled it at all..) heat pump coil cleaner spray occasionally and it's still fine after 8 years.. This model in the video is one of the newer ones with only the door filter..therefore the condition of the filter is very important! The newer version from somewhere 4-5 years ago had a problem with base material curving/twisting and then when the blowing fan finally touches the collar it sticks there quite well..(customers usually say that the drum is stuck..) there is a fan and a collar available with more clearance and then the support block to try to prevent the further curving..at that point the motor base is often curved that much that you need to screw similar screw the covers have to in between the neck of motor and the base plastic (you'll see that neck when the fan blade is taken apart).. Compared to fridge evacuation/leak detecting/refill/etc. is a bit more of a work/time than the process of dismantling and putting this unit back together.. and having used one for years; it's very..very much better for Your clothes! The traditional condensing dryers blow so hot air that i've seen some materials deteriorate quickly and i know cases where some el cheapo pants have melted.. heat pump dryer has max around 50 deg. celsius (120-125 deg. fahrenheit) so very safe.. I live up north in cold climate so it's a great plus to be able to dry all we need throughout the year (i've dried many clothes with 'no tumble dry' sign because of the low temperature of my dryer) and drying us even cheaper than drying out the clothes just in the room on the clothesline since many people here heat their houses with electricity (or oil which is not the cheapest option nowadays in my country).. The same energy would go from heating the house and this type of dryer has cop advantage so maybe around 2-3 times cheaper drying compared to clothesline during winter if the house is heated with regular electric heaters; Air- or some other source heatpump heating takes the advantage away.. (some people though prefer the humidity the clothesdrying brings in the house..)
Thank you so much for your videos, they have been so helpful to reference. I've filled a paper bag with lint vacuumed from the bargain dryer I bought. On my way through reassembly at the mo. It would have taken so much longer without your videos to follow if i had even attempted it at all. Thanks again!
I didn't went as far as taking the whole heating/cooling system out when I did this, only removed everything else from the plastic base to rinse it out this way. Great job, well done! Looks very good down there again haha👍
I have an Electrolux 8oo series dryer, I often clean it with vacuum accessories but not perfect solution.But I think I will adapt a pice of filter like those one for the vacuum cleaner or the extractor to put in front of condenser.
There is no additional filer on these ones? Mine has a pretty dense filter in front of the cores. The lint trap does not catch everything. Thanks for the video, i learned a lot from it!
Thanks for the video. I have to clean mine because it smells moldy inside and it makes my laundry stinky lol. Probably there is a lot of moldy fluff in that lower tray under the heat exchangers
Hey, finally a video with a full cleaning. Thanks for it. I recently did the same for my dryer because water is not getting condensed, but did not make a difference. Could it be the air flow? I saw the front fan not spinning, and if I am right that takes air inside and circulates it. If so, how to test it? Looking forward to your thoughts.
Hi @bootsowen, thanks a lot for this video. I have more or less the same model as you and also took it apart to clean it up. I was wondering whether removing the circlip at 2:43 was necessary. I did it as well but had to replace it because I had distorted it
Great video. Mine is suddenly not drying anymore so was thinking it might be the thermostat. Not sure where it is though, was hoping your video would show me. But didn’t see it. 😒
Thanks for the video. I needed something just like that - to see the overall principle of assembly because I am investigating mold smell. I keep everything clean, I use only clean filters before using the machine and still mold smell came.
@@bootsowen, yes. I am 100% sure that the smell comes from something like that plastic part under the 2 radiators from your video. My dryer is Beko, but I am sure that everything is very similar. The pump can't take 100% of the water and some water always stays. After time mold starts to grow from it.
New models spray the collected water through the condensers and try to clean them automatically. Only a few models have this feature per December 2024. I am sure there will be more of that. I think the big LG does it, for example. I have an 8 year old AEG, and it's really good, very low power consumption and works well. After each run, I clean the filters. Once a while, like once per year, I take the sides off and vacuum as much as possible. Once a year I spray lukewarm water through the condensers, and out. Every ½ year, I also take a good look inside the many holes in the rear of the drum, and with out any clothes, I run a 10 minute time program. This loosen the rest of the lint that may be stuck in the condensers, and bring it up behind the drum (visible through the holes. I then put a soft rubber tip on the vacuum cleaner and on full suction, I can just suck the collected lint from behind the inner drum, away. No problem. Takes just a few minutes and only once in a while. I have taken my machine completely apart, and did like in the video. That was only needed once. Now, I just do the other way as described. And it's never clogged. I use a very strong flashlight to inspect, and it's clean. Since my AEG have tons of options, and it's A+++ at 176KWH per year on average, and also in real life, I will keep this super good machine. I am looking for the last model of that design, which also had Prosteam. Fully A+++ and just as good as the newest model. Yes, it's more time consuming to run the heat pump driers, but with the system described, maintenance is easy and works well. So this way, I'm not afraid of having a heat pump dryer. Hope it can help others. Cheers.
Brilliant video, i know how to get it apart, but not the drum and condenser area, absolutly caked in dust, the one behing had about a 10mm solid blaket of fluff on it!
Thank you very much for this video. I was able to take my dryer apart and to wash whole dirty bottom. I have exact same model. But somehow i ended up with 2 screws more than before, so i guess nothing important :S
Use a Air Con foaming agent cleaner spray on those fins. It gets deep inside those fins and then forces all those snots out. I too was looking to see an electric heating element to supplement the heat pump for added heat. BEKO has a RapiDry Heat Pump Dryer which does have a 800W heater for use when its either cold or to speed up your drying cycle
This will likely be a useful video to me when the 5 year warranty runs out on my DV80TA020AE/EU or sooner if they decide its our fault. It appears from outside to be of same poor design. First warranty repair for non functioning condenser was at just 9 or 10 months old from new. We had been doing all suggested lint filter and condenser brushing at front of unit. Rather than just cleaning up the internals, they actually replaced the whole floor assembly of condenser unit and motors etc. What a waste, replaced nearly all the expensive bits. We have since also been regularly vacuuming the condensor from the front panel as well as using the short brush provided. Its now lasted about another 15-16 months since last repair/replacement but is now taking hours to finish and not collecting much water, so have booked another repair.
Thanks for the informative video. My dryer runs for about 5-10 mins then it just stops. No heat. Im gonna be honest and say I did not know about the fins that needs cleaning and it was all backed up. Cleaned it but still no heat or error code. Started to dismantle the machine but i cannot see the heatpump starting at all when Im doing test runs with cover off so maybe there is a blown thermistor or something that prevents the heatpump from activating?
Hi . Thank you for your video. I'm struggling now with the connections on the compressor 😢 I just forget to take a picture before. Can you help me please ? Thanks
You have probably got sorted but for anyone else who does the same (I almost fell foul myself) - if looking at the compressor whilst standing at the rear of the machine (motor right in front of you) - White is at 12 o'clock, Red is at 4 o'clock, Black is at 8 o'clock.
great video mate. Any idea where is the sensor that tells the machine if the lint filter is in or not? Mine just comes up with error to replace the filter but the filter is in. Dryer won't start because of that. Thanks for any help
@@bootsowen hey mate. Just for anyone out there maybe come across the same issue. I fixed it. When shaking out the lint filters what I didn't know at the time, a magnet broke out of a place in the filter and came off. It's an earth magnet. The magnet opens a solenoid switch that is inside the case at the door side. Found another earth magnet to glue in place and it works fine. Took me ages to figure out 😅🤣. Hope this may help someone if they have the same accident with it 🤣. All the best
Nice job mate, very thorough. I like your work. I was thinking it might be worth trying the foaming spray you can buy to clean the fins on air conditioning units? It might work well to get the last of the gubbins out. What do you think?
I'm not a big fan of buying stuff, I think this machine is clean enough now. I hadn't heard of the foam until the comments on this video. If I had used the foam without dismantling the machine there was so much dirt that I believe it would have clogged everything further along.
Get your self a water pic tooth cleaner. They are great for blasting out small enclosed spaces. I like cleaning out my washing machines detergent draw as it blasts out the mould and keeps it clean.
On condensers with smashed fins - if the leading edge of the fins protrude from the pipes/channels a bit - I have had good success straightening them out using hair combs. I have accumulated a "set" of combs over the years I use for this (its not limited to condensers/radiators on dryers or even home appliances). So I have a bunch now, with different size of the prongs and spacings between them. Its easiest if the top, bottom or both ends of the fins are open, because then you can start a little further back on the fins where they're much closer to straight, and you can get the whole comb in there (one that fits the fin spacing but with more room for each fin between them). Then gently walk it down along the fins and out the other end. Do a few passes, then move on to the next comb with slightly smaller spaces for the fins, gradually straightening them out. If you go for the ideal fit right away, the bent fins usually put up too much resistance and if you force it too much at that point, they can crumple and tear. I've found hardresser/barber combs to be most useful and suited, as they're commonly metal and can be had with tighter spacing and thinner prongs. Plastic combs with thin prongs are prone to easily break if you use the for this stuff. Metal combs are usually more forgiving and remain more structurally sound after you cut the ends off too, if you need to do this with a fairly wide condenser/radiator where you can't reach all the fins from the sides. As you can't just stick a "full normal" comb in there - the ends of the comb are way too big and will obviously crush the fins.
@@bootsowen I buy dryers and washers from folks that sell good, attractive units really cheap just to get rid of them, often during moving. I try to only take on machines that only need a proper clean/servicing, to mimimize the required expenses, labor and turnover time - but some needing repair do sneak past my filter now and then. I give them a proper full deep clean so they look spotless, take good pics, research some links for good reviews, price history and user manuals, and do a very solid write-up that by the end of reading prospective buyers feel invested - then post them for sale on used marketplace. In USD equivalent, all in all I'm usually out maybe 50-70 bucks on the unit, fuel for transport and cleaning consumables, a couple of hours of work, and bring in 275 to 350 on the sale. It's just a solo side gig, but the money is good and the market endless. Everyone needs a washer, many need a dryer, people like upgrading appliances (especially free standing ones), people are moving all the time, many are moving to where there these kinds appliances are already present - or simply do not have a car to move them around. And if you _do_ take on units needing small repairs, these are relatively simple machines so there's not really that many parts to go wrong with them. So fixes are fairly easy and don't require much skill, especially with UA-cam and google to help you.
I agree. I have pretty much taught myself how to do all of the repairs from reading and watching YT. Some of the electronics mystifies me. but I am attempting board repairs and sometimes succeeding, no repair person would ever do that, just a new parts swop. and for control boards and such it is too expensive usually. but as you know you can buy used machines for very little, people get new kitchens and want new appliances or renters move and the new place has appliances already. or they just don't have the means to move them. works for you. and it's always worth keeping a used item going even if it takes some time and ingenuity than throwing it out. good work!
let me know if you post some videos, I watch a guy in usa who posts videos about laundromats, but his brother has an appliance repair business, similar to you but maybe on a bigger scale. People love business/money/how to/repair videos, second income stream from YT?
Absolutely! I do microelectronics repair as a 2nd sidegig, from iphone pcb work to medical gear, and lesrned pretty much all of it from Jessa and Louis here on YT, plus eevblog and badcaps forums etc. So repairing appliance PCBs is comfort food :) it's usually fairly "rough and basic" electronics, and failure modes are very similar. Samsung washers for instance. Some of those machines are great performers, but notorious repeators for just 1-3 different failures/fixes. And often the warranty repair guys just replace the whole module but usually the new module has the same weakness. But actually fixing it so it doesn't happen again? Nah.
If you care to do it, after every drying session, you take a vacuum cleaner, and vacuum carefully the front of the exchanger. It will help it to clog up less, as the front lint blocks the ones coming from behind and so on. Cheers.
Im on my 2nd heat pump drier now. I'm not convinced that the duty cycle is anywhere near what they say they are. The previous AEG machene packed up after four years. Five visits from so-called repair technicians failed to fix it. When smoke started coming out after the last bodged repair attempt, I bought a new one. Nice to see the price of these are coming down a bit now, but these and many other appliances should be more repair/service frendly.
excellent video! The best i found over the net in 2 hours of browsing. Thank you! My issue, should you be kind to help me out, is that it stopped get the clothes dry. It doesn't drain any water into the collection tank, and the clothes are wet in a warm way. It's getting warm however not hot. Before jumping into tearing it down, any idea what should the issue be? Thank you in advance!
@@bootsowen i have to check the pump ( samsung b13-6aa01120) if it needs a replacement, cause i see a security mechanism on it that could prevent the dryer from normal functioning in case of water flooding. if that is not the case, i am thinking the extreme hot weather that we have at the moment, could? affect the thermostat in some weird way? no idea.
so I torn it apart, cleaned everything thoroughly, still not working. no heat generated at all, cycles as normal though, without condensing any water. Could the coolant be the issue? Or any thermostat? any idea?
So I did take everything apart once again, this time the condenser as well, I put it on the tub and washed it extensively. after the condenser got dry, because there were still remnants, I set it on fire! Yes, the front unit I set it on fire and most of the remnants are now gone. Very clean indeed. The dryer is now working, in a funny way though. it gets the clothes dry, it's getting hot nice and well, however, it doesn't condense any water on the tray! Nothing! No idea why, thought that the coolant is gone, however I set it to run without any housing, and it seems that the front part is getting hot and the rear is cool. not that cool though. I then noticed that the cooler fan, that sits on the front right lower edge was not spinning, so I removed it and tested it, and it's fine. If the coolant was gone then it wouldn't get the front evaporator hot nor the rear condenser cool, but I guess it's not as cool as it should? no idea. any help will be really appreciated. the water I think gets evaporated and goes away from the dryer. the laundry room doesn't seem to have any significant humidity, but it should be cause the weather is quite dry and the window is always open. Any idea plz?
I hope that's not typical of all of the designs. I would have taken the base design of the dryers we see in North America, where the drum rides on four wheels, made it completely open, but either put a condensate tray in the bottom eliminating the pump or putting the whole dehumidifier in the top instead of the bottom allowing the moisture to drain out by gravity into a nearby wash tub or washing machine drain. The next step is making it as serviceable as possible, either making the whole dehumidifier assembly slide out on rails after removing a panel or making it so you have to only remove a small handful of fasteners to get to most of the machine. The belts on this machine also seem unnecessary. You only need one belt to drive the whole thing and that usually came with a device known as an idler pulley. I guess this may make it a bit noisier for houses in Europe but in North America our laundry rooms are typically either in the basement or out of the regular living space. The other thing I am worried about is filtration. These machines don't seem like the ideal environment for this style of dehumidifier as the condenser coils in them require relatively clean air to run through them to begin with and most older dehumidifiers I see have no aluminum fins on the coils, the coils are actually long, looping pieces of copper or aluminum as they typically run in our basements to begin with, not necessarily the most dust-free environments. Our ducted systems, albeit wasteful as it pumps all of the heat out of the building, have a better tendency to move air and are easier to clean as well. Most of the time only requiring a vacuum cleaner and a brush. How many tools did you use to clean this thing? I saw a garden hose and nozzle, a brush, air compressor and a vacuum cleaner. I'm all for Occam's razor, but our system has its flaws as well, one of them being the leading cause of house fire, but that number may have a rival in the form of the battery electric vehicle, especially Tesla.
Why are the fins so bent? I didn't catch that in the video, sorry if I missed the explanation! I always thought they would be straight as an arrow to improve airflow.
Thanks for the answer Some sold them with a text Selvcleaning Condenser.. I though the condenser was a plate with pipes on so the Dust was falling off But when it is build like that will all dust be in the Condenser and Evaporator.. Why have the company not let the bottom to be opening. So it is easier to Clean up.. Sorry my English. best regards and thanks for the Answer..
Great video thanks, there's not enough from actual manufacturers of these products explaining some of the facts and maintenance issues with these heat pump dryers! Any ideas on what could cause the evaporator in mine to start getting warm after about 45 minutes of running? It is definetely cold to touch initially then definetely starts getting warm and it stops the drying process as it's just circulating hot steamy air with no dehumidifing going on. It's a 5yr old Samsung heat pump btw. Thanks!
@@bootsowen ah ok thanks, also may have got the terminology wrong, the element that is supposed to get cold to condense the moisture in the air, that gets warm, so there is no dehumidifing of the air as it circulates.
I think that the fins that you touch when you pone the cover are the "cold" ones, and behind are the hot ones. But I think hot and clod are relative. Depending on what you have in there these machines can take ages to get going. over an hour. But you have watched my video I presume, are your fins clean? because if they are anything like this I imagine that you won't get great performance!
@@bootsowen thanks yeh i plan to strip down the ventilation and heat pump elements and wash them out like you did in your video. I've taken it apart a few times and the amount of lint inside after 5 years is rediculous, so i imagine the fins are just caked inside the unit.
I reckon I might do mine again sometime, I have been running it daily and I reckon there is fluff building up again. I plan to make a secondary filter for it. but I would like to power(jet) wash it first.
I have this exact model, and it too has a notable lack of drying ability. I disassembled mine in the hopes of encountering a massive fluff community...but mine was fairly clean throughout the internals. Hardly any fluff at all. Heat exchanger seemed all in order. For lack of fluff, what else could cause the unit to not dry the clothes?
Great video! I have had the same dryer from new but 9kg. There is no extra filter missing. The comb that comes with it is rubbish. Looks like I need to make a morning free and get down to cleaning!!!
Hey man I have a silvercrest swt 8a1 i bought from a retailer at a discount price. The timer programs work perfectly fine but all of the automatic programs do not work properly: The machine starts running but then after 20ish minutes the program stops and the machine displays End as in end of the program. And the clothes are still wet. With timer programs this does not happen and the machine goes all the way to the end by heating and everything and the clothes come out warm and dry. I thought the moisture sensor was faulty or unplugged but its just two metal plates with no electronics. I found continuity between the metal stripes and the respective pins on the plug that goes into the card. The specific card on this machine works fine because it was on another machine and the auto programs worked fine on it. The only thing that is left now is that the sensor wasn't plugged in the right spot in the card and i can see that there are 3 other spots empty on the card. Do you have any suggestions ? Would it be safe for me to plug the sensor plug in these 3 spots to test the machine or could that cause damage to it ?
20 years experienced technician for household appliances here.
U did a fabulous job, your doorfilter is broken in the corner and will let al these hairs and fine dust go through , replace that one and you got a machine that survives the next 10 years
@@on3td I had the same issue, used double sided gel tape to patch and stitched it back together with nylon. 2 weeks in and no signs of weakening yet but I'll keep an eye on it
Provided the motherboard dont break down😂
Can we see the broken doorfilter in the video?
This is a good example of a design flaw. The principle of the heat pump itself isn't bad. But in this video, which I find really great, you can see that this device cannot function well and efficiently in the long run. No regular user of the device can remove all that dirt. And who is going to completely disassemble their dryer and clean all the components like that? But I think it's very good that this is shown here. Hats off to your excellent work. I hope your dryer will now work well for a few more years, at least until it gets clogged again, which is probably unavoidable. Thank you for the wonderful video. Greetings from Germany.
👍
Appreciate you did the electricity consumption comparison at the end AND (despite same results) posted it!
Fascinating to see that most heatpump dryers have near IDENTICAL heatexchange systems.
Yea. I imagine that it’s the same as in microwaves. Most have the same insides.
all manufactured by haier lol
Faça um vídeo explicando detalhadamente como funciona essa secadora. Se possível com legenda. Meu idioma é o português Brasil, não entendi nada do que foi falado, mas me deixou curioso esse sistema de condensador para secar roupas.@@bootsowen
dude... thanks a lot for the video! I managed to repair our dryer after watching. Many many thanks!!!
Good job for someone who’s not a engineer.I work for retail company as an engineer and these heat pump dryers are ok when they’re new however once again these manufacturers are not thinking about the engineers who have to service them…
Mine is not drying properly and there is water coming out of the front on the right side any ideas?
@@paulb9769I do some white goods repairs and I've just bought one of these same dryers to repair, I may use for my own use or resell? I'm looking for any information before I thanks the plunge to try to fix it. This man is a great repair man and has done a great job. I think your dryer may be leaking due to condenser (evaporator in refrigerator terms or cold side) heat exchanger needs water ways cleaned so that accumulated condensed water can flow to the water drain pump at the back to be discharged, instead this is simply overflowing the drain channel. That's my best guess without seeing it.
Engineers don't service, they put numbers and science together to help develop a design. I think you mean technician. Now, if I engineered this thing, looking at the amount of work put into it, the so-called time just to get it apart, they forgot one important rule that European engineers in general (I know this is from a Korean company but it reeks of European design) I have found do not follow, especially from appliance and car makers: Follow Occam's Razor. If you still don't get it, "keep it simple, stupid!"
I've explained in my comment that I would try to reduce complexity by removing the number of fasteners, pieces and putting the dehumidifer assembly in the top on rails behind an accessible panel, eliminating the need for a pump as well as eliminating the need to completely disassemble it to clean the weakest part in the system. Changing the coils to something to make it easier to clean and not as susceptible to debris, dust and other particles would make it so much better. Actually, if anything, the traditional North American dryer design is one of the easiest to fix, so starting with that as a base would be the best method. The whole drum just sits on top of four guide rollers, with open ends, eliminating the half-dozen fasteners, bushing, cover plate and spring clip as well as the whole thing driven by one belt. It also makes getting to the base of the machine easier as well. The cabinets on these dryers are all that makes up the structure and to access most of the components one just removes the front panel of the machine. Granted, we don't put anything to absorb vibration but in our cases, the machines really didn't sit in living spaces, they were often in basements or some other secluded space of the house.
Also, it doesn't matter what kind of dryer you have, you should have it cleaned and checked every six months or each year, just like your furnace/heating system, your refrigerator and computer.
Thanks for the video. I stripped down and cleaned my dryer following this. The machine is 5 years old and was FULL of fluff, not just the heat exchanger but packed around the motor, the circuit board and everywhere else. I didn't find it necessary to remove the heat exchanger, I carefully cleaned it in situ with a butter knife and an old toothbrush. The fluff was packed in the gap between the two stages, but not much between the fins.
Thank you for the video!!!! I fixed mine also because of you it was a two hour job not twelve.
After an hour of trying to clean the depths of the fins from outside with a little toothpick, I looked up your video. Super informative! It also showed me how futile my attempt was. 😂 let's see what the technician will say or do. My dryer not even five years old and the clothes stay wet.
I thought about pressure washing it from behind, but as you can see there are two elements and that would have been equally futile!
What did the technician say or do? Im waiting for one next week.
@leza4453 what did the technician say?
I love that this video doesn't have any music at all. Just you doing a great job cleaning the machine. BTW, I think there should be a second lint filter just before the fins. Maybe previous owner lost it? If there's no second filter, those fins are going to get clogged again fast. You could just diy a sponge and put it before the fins.
I thought the same and bought a filter, but there is nowhere to fit it, I think some (possibly older) models like mine just don't have that filter and others do. Since I have had it it has stayed clean. I reckon that the laundry that went through it with the previous owners wasn't always washed and was full of dust.
@@bootsowen Older dehumidifiers had loose coils without the fins. Just concentric spirals of tubing packed into a cylindrical block with a fan at one end to push the air through. Strangely enough the refrigerator in our current place also has loose condenser coils inside some ducting with a fan blowing across them as well. Was it as efficient? probably not, but easier to service. One of the reasons I think the North American appliances in the mid-90s and before then were the tops:
Simple boxes with clock motor-driven timers often with one motor running the whole show. Were they noisy? Yes. Inefficient? You better believe it, but what is inefficiency when you got a hot steaming set of gleaming dishes from a dish washer within an hour compared to taking at least two hours in a high efficient system only to look crappier in comparison? The same goes with top loading washing machines, yes, they used quite a bit of water but your clothes often came out cleaner than these plastic toys they call major appliances now. Also, if it's better for the environment, why is it we are throwing away appliances more often now (every 3-5 years) due to prohibitively expensive parts and long service call times compared to your grandmother's Maytag that lasted at least 30+ years without much in the way of a hiccup?
Thanks for the video. I followed this to take apart a DV90M50003X as the motor had died and needed replaced. Also cleaned all the radiator fins and straitened out all those that were bent.. it would have been ten times harder without your video so thanks very much.. very detailed and thorough! Motor cost £85 which is much cheaper than buying a new dryer..
Well done
Brave man, great job. I had to dismantle the machine too, a Siemens, but largely identical build, to replace the belt. A few tips:
1. Why I never heard anyone talk about this is beyond me, but after a few years, the inside of most dryers are a giant fire hazard due to build-up of lint. Open your dryers every 3 to 4 years and suck out the lint. No wonder these things catch fire so often. Cause of the lint, I suspect, is the next point:
2. These machines need to have the front and rear air seals cleaned after about 4 years of use.
* The built up dirt on the seals will severely brake the drum, increasing motor power draw and likely also cause wobbling / disbalance, increasing noise and that will destroy your belt. This is what I had and why I had to replace the torn belt.
* But more importantly: The efficiency of the machine will be greatly reduced due to the what-should-be closed air circuit leaking warm, humid air. Power usage will go way up and your wash will take longer to dry. Does your room feel warm and moist after using the machine.... you have a leak.
3. You can clean the machine mostly without disassembly. I did it this way and successfully got over 6 years of dirt removed from the exchanger.
* Run diagnostic program 7 (on a Siemens, your machine may differ) to pump off any water in the bottom fixed reservoir. Search 'diagnostic menu dryer' on google or youtube to find out how it works for your machine. For my machine, a Siemens, open duckduckgo.com and search for "55000000070771 ASP". Top hit should be a pdf with all you need to know, written in English. If you use google you will probably only find the french version.
* Remove the top removable reservoir
* Slowly pour 1.5 liter of hot soap water in the big hole, that sits directly below the top reservoir.
* Pump away the hot water using the diagnostic program and repeat the hot soapy water pour two more times.
* Optional but recommended: Use compressed are to blow the remaining debris from the exchanger, if you can reach it. Some machines do not allow for front access to the exchanger, in which case you need to use the access vent from inside the door - you need a long extension for your air gun to reach this part.
* Next use a vacuum to try and pull any remaining debris out.
* Your milage may vary, but this completely fixed my clogged exchanger.
The video was a year ago but nonetheless, thanks for your dedicated and detailed effort in this comment, I'm saving it for the future :)
Preventative maintenance. Our dryers in North America are fairly simple in construction. Clean it and the ducting EVERY 6 MONTHS TO EACH YEAR. When using your dryer, after each day of operation, chase the lint trap and ducting with a vacuum cleaner and a crevice tool. If you don't feel comfortable cleaning the dryer or ducting (if you live in North America) get a certified major appliance tech to do it for you. A lot of those dryers are over 20 years old and still operating, even with little to no maintenance done. However, those who don't maintain them meet the often dire consequences of a house fire or when they do get them cleaned, well, there are a lot of videos of duct cleaners spreading years of lint and dirt all over the yard of their and their neighbours' properties. Of course, if I am cleaning my dryers, I like to use a vacuum cleaner instead of a leaf blower, but to each their own.
Thanks for the excellent video! My Samsung heat pump dryer was starting to take a long time to dry after 2 years of operation. I disassembled the machine, cleaned the inside (*lots* of fuzz) and the heat pump unit (clogged with fuzz too), and reassembled. Took around 4 h total. Now the dryer is working perfectly again. I also noticed that the plastic hinges of the removable fuzz filter at the drum were broken and had gaps in the mesh netting, allowing clothes fuzz to escape to the heat pump and eventually the inside of the machine. Fixed that too. Seems really important that that filter is tight and catches all fuzz.
It takes maybe 15 minutes to clean out our ducted dryer here in Canada with little more than a wet and dry vacuum cleaner and a brush resembling a chimney sweep. We try to do this each year. A good rule of thumb is after a day's use, go down inside the lint trap ducting with a vacuum cleaner and crevice tool attachment.
One of the best teaching videos I've ever seen. thank you very much and blessings.
I had same issue with my dryer. With this video I did the cleaning of the heat exchanger and it helped. It took me more then hafl hour 😅 but without the video I would not succed. Thanks .
Glad it helped!
I only recommend old school commercial style washer dryers. Function over style and it actually is cost effective/ efficient for the slight inefficiency versus complexity and life span.
I am pretty sure that these machines will use way less electric in their lifetime than a heater vented dryer. If they both last as long then this type has to be more efficient.
This is a great video. My drain pump started failing which, in turn, caused the condenser unit to fill up with water and clog up with lint. We were routinely getting an HC error code on the display. Since dismantling the dryer and giving it a good clean out (in addition to replacing the pump), the dryer has been working perfectly.
I have cleaned mine again with a powerwasher and it is better than ever.
Thank you for the video. Even if you didn't get the measure of consumption that you hoped for, the video helped me a lot. 👍🏼
One thing I did with mine is I got some course filter foam sheets. I cut it to fit the condenser coil to capture all the lint and dust to keep the fins clean.
The Whirlpool units have a filter in front of the condenser coils, while the LG units have a "flush" for the coils that passes water over them to rinse/clean them. I have a Samsung heat pump dryer that's only a year old and we need to keep the condenser coil panel open to let things dry out or our clothes smell musty, even though I've been meticulous about cleaning the coils after almost every load. I even have a portable vacuum cleaner next to the dryer to make sure as little lint as possible gets deep into the coils. It's just a really poor design on Samsung's part.
@AaronClow I have not had issues with the musty smell. As I stated in my post, I noticed the lack of pre filter for this coil so I use a coarse filter media which catches any lint that may get past the first two filters. My coils are really clean still after two years of heavy moderate use of 5x a week. Clothes dry in about 45 min to an hour depending on size of load. Yes samsung needs to add that extra filter in front of the coils!
Thanks a lot for your video, i have a very clean dryer now, and efficient again after 7 years of use.
Cool, did you take it apart the whole way?
@@bootsowenyes, absolutely. Your step by step video gave me enough confidence to do it. A credit card is perfect for the fins alignement, instead of a screwdriver.
I take my hat off to you mate. That was a whole world of effort. Well done.
Обычное дело 😏 ничего особенного
Thank you very much to upload this video.
Its really great and it will help a lot of people to clean it by themself .
Best greeting from Germany.
You’re welcome
Love your drive to recycle and save money. You also seem to enjoy it as well, which make it worth it. My tumble dryer broke, but after watching the technician fix it and all the parts on eBay I'm tempted to cancel the insurance and fix it my self too.
I’m stoked to see that I’m not the only one facing this task and this dryer. I’d tried evening short of complete disassembly to clean the coils and drying performance seems to just get worse. Top notch video and guide. Got to keep track of those screws though!!
Great job! Now I have to go through all this on my own. My machine lasted 5 years of intense usage - which was extended warranty period and failed ultimately just one month after. By the way - first thing I did when I saw how much dust goes into the heat exchanger: I made additional sponge filters and placed them in front of radiator. I guess without them it would stop working much sooner.
Could you post a video of what you did making filters? I want to do this. I bought the proper sponge filter but it is for a later model I think so it doesn’t fit my one.
I just cut a rectangle sized 225 by 125 mm simply because that's the size of air intake to heat exchangers chamber. It is made of regular synthetic sponge that comes with computer parts like graphic cards etc. I is about 8mm thick, I guess anything between 5 and 10 mm will be just fine. Just make sure air goes through it without much resistance. It will catch whatever dust made it past the original filter and eventually get clogged, so it's important to take the sponge out and wash away all contamination frequently.
Oh, and please mind that dimensions of the DIY sponge filter may need to be different depending on exact model of your machine.
Just finished reassembling, soon I'm gonna find out how it works after cleaning the inside...
@@bootsowen
Miele uses a double mesh filter and a 5cm thick sponge filter. But for intense use... I'm not sure it would last. And the cheapest costs more than double what an Electrolux costs.
Sponge 30 PPI is ok?
@@iordachenicolaev Mine also has the double mesh and sponge filter and still found fluff and dust in the heasink. What's worse, fine dust with humidity gets compacted inside the heasink so the only way to fully clean it is tear it down. I was thinking on adding a fine cotton filter in front of the sponge to prevent that fine dust getting in.
First class video on cleaning these nightmare machines. A through and intelligent approach. I will only be convinced to buy a heat pump dryer when the manufacturers improve their designs to make them much more serviceable and perhaps even introduce a 'temporary exchange and full factory overhaul' service free of charge within a sensible 10 year full parts and labour guarantee. Otherwise this is just going to be a massive boost to the trow-away society.
I think the more recent ones of these have another filter in front of the fins to catch the last of the crap. I also reckon that the previous owner dried clothes that hadn't been cleaned, like wet workwear, it came from a farm, so dust and dirt in there makes sense. I can't see you getting a 10 year service warranty, but I've been looking for a reason to eat my hat!
I agree with your post! What a waste to produce something, that will be clogged with normal use in a short time and then cannot be easily cleaned.
@@bootsowenabout that additional foam filter for the heat exchanger. My model, like this one, doesn't have one. I'm considering sticking one in there anyway as I'm in the middle of taking the machine apart and the fluff inside the machine is unbelievable! This despite cleaning the lint filter after every use and regularly vacuuming the bottom one. What do you think of a second filter down at the bottom?
Decided to do the same as you after giving it some thought. Can’t believe how much fluff was inside. Everything was coated, including the pcb which looked like it was wearing a coat! Have had ours for maybe 5 years and just recently it has been taking forever to dry clothes. Anyway, stripped it down completely and got a hosepipe on the heat exchangers. Only way to get all the crud out from between the fins. Have yet to try it out but I’m feeling positive about it being successful. If nothing else getting all the accumulated fluff out from the machine makes me less worried about a possible fire risk! Two things I did different to you. You can leave the door on as it doesn’t stop you taking the front off. And also I left the back panel attached to the drum. Saves removing the circlip from the drum spindle. Just remove the whole assembly together, it’s very light. Don’t think I would have tackled this without watching your video, so well done for taking the time to do it.
Thanks for your tips. I have just bought another, (I like to have a backup) and it needs cleaning too. I have rewatched my video in anticipation of doing this job again and I don't think it is necessary to remove the control panel or the front panel at all. Likewise, as you say, just take the drum and back off together. Hindsight being 20-20. Glad you tired it.
Thanks for this valuable info! Probably the biggest value of this exercise is seeing how this Samsung machine fits together!
We have a later model of the same make and similar type. The end-of-cycle singsong (Schubert's "The Trout Quintet") drives the missus bonkers, so I took the machine apart, stuffed the piezo buzzer/sounder with cotton wool, and taped it over. The resultant peace is worth all the effort! 😁
Usually there is a way to silence the machine. Either an obvious button or a long press of a button. Usually says so in the manual.
@@bootsowen We tried that, after searching for, and downloading the full manual. Our specific model doesn't have that feature even though it's an obvious and easy one to implement! 😠
well you found the workaround anyway. well done!
Just found this after cleaning our machine. Fantastic video, you have a good pair of hands
Seeing this is a lot like a AC system, (window, mini split, central AC,) in style, I would use a coil cleaner and water combo, spray/soak with coil cleaner then just rinse. I wouldn't bother with compressed air until afterwards as it also dries it off. I hear simply green works very well as well. Very nice work here.
AC is not particularly common in the UK, so the knowledge isn't here. If I was doing it again I would use a pressure washer and not worry about it.
@@bootsowen I apologize for my lack of clarity. Think of heat pumps and understand they are AC. I understand your meaning though. Same tech and also why I made a list, though I should have said heat pump instead of mini split but I was worried that would have been more confusing. I found your video when I was searching for how the internals look in a Samsung Heat pump dryer as I recently got one in the USA. Works amazingly by the way, but I wanted to see what kinds of maintenance I would need to do and your unit was almost identical to mine outside minor differences in power cords. I have experience cleaning condenser and evaporator coils as I have a heat pump mini split and water heater already so I shared what I could to hopefully help. I noticed that UK can only order Simple Green online, but the idea is to use a degreaser. Using a all purpose cleaner/degreaser and let it soak for 5 minutes and rinse off can make quick work of the job.
Mate, really appreciate this vid. Bound to have improved efficiency. No doubt. My weekend job awaits 😂
Thank you very much for showing and explaining. I've the same dryer and with your help I'll try to clean it. Hopefully it'll work properly and long life after that procedure.
Mine has been working well since I made the video, over a year maybe?
Just did this today and came here to see if anyone else had, your vid is almost step for step what I did :)
These things are definitely designed to fail. The drain holes on mine were nearly completely blocked and with no easy way to do this maintenance the vast majority will end up getting scrapped when they fail, it’s so wasteful. Hopefully this vid will help lots of people extend the life of these far-from-cheap units, nice work 👍
The repair tech that worked on mine today said they were designed poorly. I have a whirlpool heat pump one and it has a LOT more filter components to keep lint out of there
Great help with taking my tumble dryer disassembly and then putting it back together correctly.
Having had 3 Whirlpool products in 7 years, 2 replaced because of fire hazard and now the 3rd is making a terrible noise so it has to go. Looked at Samsung heat pump at £700 which has a 5 year warrantee but cleaning the heat exchanger which is an engineer chargeable call out led me to Miele which is at the front and customer friendly to clean the heat exchanger and informs when it needs to be carried out. Cost £1,000 but our experience with 2 Miele washing machines over 45 years is you get what you pay for. In fact When the first machine started giving problems after 20 years, Miele came along to look as a £100 service call and said if the repair was uneconomic they gave us £100 voucher towards a new Miele on top of any discount at purchase.
The Miele runs at about 400wH as opposed to Condenser at 2-3kWh
Great machines, great Company
I like Miele too but I have found that buying them second hand is great value compared to new.
Merci pour ta vidéo, je suis ennuyé avec un Whirlpool Freshcare, il mets une erreur E1 F1. J'ai commencer a le démonter sans résultats mais je doutais de le démonter complètement. Tu viens de me motivé à le faire. Merci beaucoup 🙏.
Great news. have a try!
Super satisfying, great job and thanks for sharing the whole breakdown and cleaning, In the near future I possibly gonna do the same 💪👏
Great to see someone fixing things! I think an additional measurement to consider for performance is time. Would be interesting to see how much faster it was once cleaned!
I don't think it was that much faster, I am using it daily at the moment, and allowing the blades to clog up again, depending on my mood I may take it apart again and give it a powerwashing and do the tests you suggest.
@@bootsowen If you do tear it down again, have a look at where the air might be bypassing or escaping the circuit? Seems odd that there was soo much debris loose inside the casing?
@@madhucksFixed a few. Some have a bad seal between the lint filter and the hole it sticks into, some don't have a seal there at all. If the bottom hinge or closing side-edges of the filter are torn, cracked or poorly aligned, lint will get past the filter that way. Some filter units just have a bad, poorly thought through design that is inherently incapable of making a proper seal along the sides when closing the fold-out filter.
Some heat pump dryers, slightly older Whirlpool ones especially, may have poor alignment between the plastic parts of the condenser housing, that the bottom secondary filter unit's seal presses against, forming a sharp uneven ridge across the mating surface of that filter unit's seal. And of that misalignment ridge causes more than a millimeter or so difference in depth, that sharp straight angle ridge becomes too much for the rather stiff seal on the secondary filter unit to conform fully to that surface. Causing a leak past the secondary filter that way.
On the most recent one I fixed, the filter unit itself sealed together well, but there was no seal between that and the hole (the lip along the edge that the filter unit rests on). Just plastic on plastic with significant wiggle room. Not even a friction fit, so maybe an oversight in production; it sure seems like there _should_ be a seal there, but no sign of one ever being installed. I just cut to shape and stuck on some low profile silcone rubber seal strip for doors and windows, along the edge that the filter unit rests on. Hasn't seen any more signs of bypassing lint after 4 months of near daily use. But make sure you really clean the surface 100% first, and to buy good quality strip for this, especially the adhesive bit. As most such sealing strip is not really made for this kind of heat. The silicone strip can usually take it, but the adhesive on the cheap stuff tends to give up very quickly because of the heat.
We have a whirlpool heat pump dryer and it has the internal double filter in the doorspace but also has a prefilter before the cooling fins to keep them cleaner. I wish our Samsung one did!
@@pr0xZen what make/model would you fit/recommend in your own home if you was to buy one?
You did a great job on that dryer. I have a candy(Hotpoint) heat pump dryer and I've found that regular cleaning of the heat exchanger fins is a good thing. Those fins are soft & fragile though and so a soft touch is needed.
Thanks for the video! I guess I'll try to skip the full disassembly and just cut holes to the side of the heat exhanger compartment. Doesn't allow as thorough cleaning but probably allows for flushing the water collector at the bottom.
I don’t think cutting a hole will help.
wow amazing as I watch the previous vid about this cant believe you done so much to get it back into shape, I know now who to turn to if I have any problems😉
I have never seen a dryer with coils and a compressor
This is a new one on me
With the heat pump, I forget about the coils and the extra maintenance that comes with it. I'm constantly cleaning A/C coils because of not replacing the filter or not installing one at all.. Great post thank you brother
Very good video thank you.
I have the same machine. Its really annoying you cannot service the heat exchanger without major disassembly.
I used to clean our condensor dryer with water to clear the fins.
This is a brilliant video, it’s going to help me a lot. Thanks a million
Glad to hear it!
Lint is getting past the filter. Find the leak and seal it off. Also buy some Calgon no rinse coil cleaner and use it monthly aling with a squirt bottle filled with di water. You don’t want to keep tearing this spart. I had same issue with whirlpool. Cleaned it good once and after 4 years works perfectly.
I have a beko, i don't know how to run the drain cycle on it, can i still use the coil cleaner? is that the same stuff used to clean split systems
Great teardown. Deserves a big 👍
Great video man. Wish I'd found it 24 hours ago 😀. Spent yesterday stripping our DV90 down as the HC code keeps coming on. I was not brave enough to take the condenser out so cleaned the crud from the fins as best I could from the top with a long thin knife fit nicely and did a good job of unblocking. Only the front bit of the first coils was blocked up. The rest was very clean. Put it back together and it ran a load last might with no error so fingers crossed it worked. Next time it needs maintenence I'll whip the condenser out as well now I've sent your vid! 👍
As long as you get the dirt out to the front rather than pushing it in you can't really go wrong, a vacuum cleaner should help.
@bootsowen it's working like a dream today. No HC codes and it's taking half the time to dry a load. Defo sorted it.
One of my neighbors had this HC code. Turned out to be a restriction of the outside duct. We took a gas powered leaf blower and stuck in the vent to the outside. Covered his backyard in dryer lint. We guess the 90 degree turns caught a bunch of lint and slowed the exhaust that much. If the wife is home, use an electric leaf blower if you want her to stick around.
Great video. Very interesting to see entire process.
You've done an amazing job cleaning those fins that are so close together & fragile!👍
There are videos on cleaning air conditioning condensers that present similar challenges. Sorry its a bit late on this job now 😜
Apparently there's condenser 'combs' that are like metal nit combs that can get between the fins, clean & align them again.
Also with foam detergents to get right through the gaps & clean better.
Maybe if you ever decide to venture into a future rebuild they may help 👍
Thanks for the tips. This is a whole discipline that I know nothing about but I like to give it a go.
@@bootsowen You can use a gerni and pressure wash the fins
Thanks for the video. It has helped me no end. Thank you.
Just picked up a Hisense heat pump dryer today, this is what it needs
As someone who fixes refrigeration devices there is no reason why this dryer couldn't have been made more serviceable. Adding acces panles for the coils and compressor isnt cheap. Theres no excuse for this things poor design. Its intentionally designed to be so time consuming and frustrating to repair that its cheaper to buy an new one. These things are land fill out of the factory and its a travisty that this cool new dryer technology is being ruined like this.
Right to repair ❤
I hate planned obsolescence and anti right to repair design too.
The level of autistic behavior mixed with OCD I am takes care of the cleaning.
I like doing it once a year
As someone who deals with both refrigeration and household appliances i can tell you they could have also just sold a condensing dryer instead of this engineering nightmare. It’s just about making it more attractive to customers because they can slap a “high efficency” or “saves money” sticker on it. Relieability down the line is their least concern. My advise for washingmachines and driers is Miele brand from between 1990 and 2005. For dishwashers get Bosch silence plus from around 2005. Those are one of the most solid devices i know with good reparability and high quality in the first place.
For got to add something… for washingmachine take Miele NovoTronic and for the drier Miele Deluxe T Series
My Siemens iq700 self cleaning 10 year's old no problems?
Been repairing these for a profession and having owning one i think these are ok though..you don't have to dismantle this completely if you don't want; each of the sides can be taken out also without taking other sides out; compressor and drum motor start caps are easy to replace; also water pump. Drum front can be taken out easily.. Also the drum.. One has to be careful with the door- and the condenser filters! (all models won't have the 2nd filter down there).. It'll clog if eg. the door filter hinge is cracked..I've cleaned my own with (having not dismantled it at all..) heat pump coil cleaner spray occasionally and it's still fine after 8 years.. This model in the video is one of the newer ones with only the door filter..therefore the condition of the filter is very important! The newer version from somewhere 4-5 years ago had a problem with base material curving/twisting and then when the blowing fan finally touches the collar it sticks there quite well..(customers usually say that the drum is stuck..) there is a fan and a collar available with more clearance and then the support block to try to prevent the further curving..at that point the motor base is often curved that much that you need to screw similar screw the covers have to in between the neck of motor and the base plastic (you'll see that neck when the fan blade is taken apart).. Compared to fridge evacuation/leak detecting/refill/etc. is a bit more of a work/time than the process of dismantling and putting this unit back together.. and having used one for years; it's very..very much better for Your clothes! The traditional condensing dryers blow so hot air that i've seen some materials deteriorate quickly and i know cases where some el cheapo pants have melted.. heat pump dryer has max around 50 deg. celsius (120-125 deg. fahrenheit) so very safe.. I live up north in cold climate so it's a great plus to be able to dry all we need throughout the year (i've dried many clothes with 'no tumble dry' sign because of the low temperature of my dryer) and drying us even cheaper than drying out the clothes just in the room on the clothesline since many people here heat their houses with electricity (or oil which is not the cheapest option nowadays in my country).. The same energy would go from heating the house and this type of dryer has cop advantage so maybe around 2-3 times cheaper drying compared to clothesline during winter if the house is heated with regular electric heaters; Air- or some other source heatpump heating takes the advantage away.. (some people though prefer the humidity the clothesdrying brings in the house..)
Thank you so much for your videos, they have been so helpful to reference. I've filled a paper bag with lint vacuumed from the bargain dryer I bought. On my way through reassembly at the mo. It would have taken so much longer without your videos to follow if i had even attempted it at all. Thanks again!
I didn't went as far as taking the whole heating/cooling system out when I did this, only removed everything else from the plastic base to rinse it out this way.
Great job, well done! Looks very good down there again haha👍
I have an Electrolux 8oo series dryer, I often clean it with vacuum accessories but not perfect solution.But I think I will adapt a pice of filter like those one for the vacuum cleaner or the extractor to put in front of condenser.
Thank you so much for this video!
There is no additional filer on these ones? Mine has a pretty dense filter in front of the cores. The lint trap does not catch everything.
Thanks for the video, i learned a lot from it!
Not on this model, I am planning to make one, but it takes ages for the fins to get clogged when you are drying clean clothes, so I might not bother!
Thanks for the video. I have to clean mine because it smells moldy inside and it makes my laundry stinky lol. Probably there is a lot of moldy fluff in that lower tray under the heat exchangers
Hey, finally a video with a full cleaning. Thanks for it.
I recently did the same for my dryer because water is not getting condensed, but did not make a difference.
Could it be the air flow? I saw the front fan not spinning, and if I am right that takes air inside and circulates it.
If so, how to test it?
Looking forward to your thoughts.
Did you find any solution? I cleand everything so now looks like a brand new, but still not collecting the water into the tank.
What size socket did you use for the fan? Also, what size wrench did you use at 18:38? It's up to you. I would've tried after seeing the dirt.
I use a socket set with many sizes. I use the correct wrench as appropriate. I don’t recall sizes because every machine is different. Probably 13.
Hi @bootsowen, thanks a lot for this video.
I have more or less the same model as you and also took it apart to clean it up.
I was wondering whether removing the circlip at 2:43 was necessary. I did it as well but had to replace it because I had distorted it
I think it is if you want to take the back off, Maybe not if you can leave the back and the drum together.
I'm surprised at how well you were able to clean it without using coil cleaner!
yes, I know what I will be doing to my unit someday. worth it, I think it will work better or at least longer
Great video. Mine is suddenly not drying anymore so was thinking it might be the thermostat. Not sure where it is though, was hoping your video would show me. But didn’t see it. 😒
Have you checked the elements and the bottom
I have, was hardly anything there and didn´t help removing the little fluff that was there.
Thanks for the video. I needed something just like that - to see the overall principle of assembly because I am investigating mold smell. I keep everything clean, I use only clean filters before using the machine and still mold smell came.
Are you drying it until it is completely dry?
@@bootsowen, yes. I am 100% sure that the smell comes from something like that plastic part under the 2 radiators from your video. My dryer is Beko, but I am sure that everything is very similar. The pump can't take 100% of the water and some water always stays. After time mold starts to grow from it.
New models spray the collected water through the condensers and try to clean them automatically. Only a few models have this feature per December 2024. I am sure there will be more of that. I think the big LG does it, for example.
I have an 8 year old AEG, and it's really good, very low power consumption and works well. After each run, I clean the filters. Once a while, like once per year, I take the sides off and vacuum as much as possible. Once a year I spray lukewarm water through the condensers, and out. Every ½ year, I also take a good look inside the many holes in the rear of the drum, and with out any clothes, I run a 10 minute time program. This loosen the rest of the lint that may be stuck in the condensers, and bring it up behind the drum (visible through the holes. I then put a soft rubber tip on the vacuum cleaner and on full suction, I can just suck the collected lint from behind the inner drum, away. No problem. Takes just a few minutes and only once in a while. I have taken my machine completely apart, and did like in the video. That was only needed once. Now, I just do the other way as described. And it's never clogged. I use a very strong flashlight to inspect, and it's clean. Since my AEG have tons of options, and it's A+++ at 176KWH per year on average, and also in real life, I will keep this super good machine. I am looking for the last model of that design, which also had Prosteam. Fully A+++ and just as good as the newest model. Yes, it's more time consuming to run the heat pump driers, but with the system described, maintenance is easy and works well. So this way, I'm not afraid of having a heat pump dryer. Hope it can help others.
Cheers.
Brilliant video, i know how to get it apart, but not the drum and condenser area, absolutly caked in dust, the one behing had about a 10mm solid blaket of fluff on it!
heat exchanger fin comb straightens the bent fins
Thank you very much for this video. I was able to take my dryer apart and to wash whole dirty bottom. I have exact same model. But somehow i ended up with 2 screws more than before, so i guess nothing important :S
Use a Air Con foaming agent cleaner spray on those fins. It gets deep inside those fins and then forces all those snots out. I too was looking to see an electric heating element to supplement the heat pump for added heat. BEKO has a RapiDry Heat Pump Dryer which does have a 800W heater for use when its either cold or to speed up your drying cycle
I'll look out for that, i reckon a small heater to boost at the start would be an idea, maybe one beko had already!
Felicitaciones primera ves que veo ese tipo de secadora gracias por compartir tan interesante video abrazos de chile
This will likely be a useful video to me when the 5 year warranty runs out on my DV80TA020AE/EU or sooner if they decide its our fault. It appears from outside to be of same poor design. First warranty repair for non functioning condenser was at just 9 or 10 months old from new. We had been doing all suggested lint filter and condenser brushing at front of unit. Rather than just cleaning up the internals, they actually replaced the whole floor assembly of condenser unit and motors etc. What a waste, replaced nearly all the expensive bits. We have since also been regularly vacuuming the condensor from the front panel as well as using the short brush provided. Its now lasted about another 15-16 months since last repair/replacement but is now taking hours to finish and not collecting much water, so have booked another repair.
they are made to brake. and both samsung and the store will claim bad maintenance. but its peactically impossible to maintain them
Thanks for the informative video.
My dryer runs for about 5-10 mins then it just stops. No heat.
Im gonna be honest and say I did not know about the fins that needs cleaning and it was all backed up. Cleaned it but still no heat or error code.
Started to dismantle the machine but i cannot see the heatpump starting at all when Im doing test runs with cover off so maybe there is a blown thermistor or something that prevents the heatpump from activating?
Buy a sponge 30 PPI today, cut and place on the front off radiator heating, i think it's perfect solution!
Good job 🎉🎉🎉 but I am confused why the condenser and evaporator have one fan the condenser give hot air then the evaporator take him cold so ........😢
Hi . Thank you for your video. I'm struggling now with the connections on the compressor
😢
I just forget to take a picture before. Can you help me please ? Thanks
Not really, but there are compressor wiring diagrams on the internet. It is just a fridge compressor.
You have probably got sorted but for anyone else who does the same (I almost fell foul myself) - if looking at the compressor whilst standing at the rear of the machine (motor right in front of you) - White is at 12 o'clock, Red is at 4 o'clock, Black is at 8 o'clock.
Hi- Thanks for sharing. Did you consider accessing the heat exchanger from the bottom?
I didn’t.
Beko has a removable heat exchanger and Samsung doesn't have one? How is that possible
great video mate. Any idea where is the sensor that tells the machine if the lint filter is in or not? Mine just comes up with error to replace the filter but the filter is in. Dryer won't start because of that. Thanks for any help
I don't think there is a sensor for that.
@@bootsowen hey mate. Just for anyone out there maybe come across the same issue. I fixed it.
When shaking out the lint filters what I didn't know at the time, a magnet broke out of a place in the filter and came off. It's an earth magnet. The magnet opens a solenoid switch that is inside the case at the door side.
Found another earth magnet to glue in place and it works fine.
Took me ages to figure out 😅🤣.
Hope this may help someone if they have the same accident with it 🤣.
All the best
Nice job mate, very thorough. I like your work. I was thinking it might be worth trying the foaming spray you can buy to clean the fins on air conditioning units? It might work well to get the last of the gubbins out. What do you think?
I'm not a big fan of buying stuff, I think this machine is clean enough now. I hadn't heard of the foam until the comments on this video. If I had used the foam without dismantling the machine there was so much dirt that I believe it would have clogged everything further along.
great job Sir❤
Get your self a water pic tooth cleaner. They are great for blasting out small enclosed spaces. I like cleaning out my washing machines detergent draw as it blasts out the mould and keeps it clean.
I have one. I reckon in this instance all it would do is push the lint and dirt further in.
Just the video I needed to sort out a noisy tensioner wheel !
Hola mi secadora huele a humedad . Por que huele mal? Muchas gracias excelente video.
Hello, there.Can we use these heat pump dryers to heat up living rooms?
Probably
Very informative thank you
On condensers with smashed fins - if the leading edge of the fins protrude from the pipes/channels a bit - I have had good success straightening them out using hair combs. I have accumulated a "set" of combs over the years I use for this (its not limited to condensers/radiators on dryers or even home appliances). So I have a bunch now, with different size of the prongs and spacings between them. Its easiest if the top, bottom or both ends of the fins are open, because then you can start a little further back on the fins where they're much closer to straight, and you can get the whole comb in there (one that fits the fin spacing but with more room for each fin between them). Then gently walk it down along the fins and out the other end. Do a few passes, then move on to the next comb with slightly smaller spaces for the fins, gradually straightening them out. If you go for the ideal fit right away, the bent fins usually put up too much resistance and if you force it too much at that point, they can crumple and tear.
I've found hardresser/barber combs to be most useful and suited, as they're commonly metal and can be had with tighter spacing and thinner prongs. Plastic combs with thin prongs are prone to easily break if you use the for this stuff. Metal combs are usually more forgiving and remain more structurally sound after you cut the ends off too, if you need to do this with a fairly wide condenser/radiator where you can't reach all the fins from the sides. As you can't just stick a "full normal" comb in there - the ends of the comb are way too big and will obviously crush the fins.
It's a good idea, you must do a lot of work on these machines.
@@bootsowen I buy dryers and washers from folks that sell good, attractive units really cheap just to get rid of them, often during moving. I try to only take on machines that only need a proper clean/servicing, to mimimize the required expenses, labor and turnover time - but some needing repair do sneak past my filter now and then. I give them a proper full deep clean so they look spotless, take good pics, research some links for good reviews, price history and user manuals, and do a very solid write-up that by the end of reading prospective buyers feel invested - then post them for sale on used marketplace. In USD equivalent, all in all I'm usually out maybe 50-70 bucks on the unit, fuel for transport and cleaning consumables, a couple of hours of work, and bring in 275 to 350 on the sale. It's just a solo side gig, but the money is good and the market endless.
Everyone needs a washer, many need a dryer, people like upgrading appliances (especially free standing ones), people are moving all the time, many are moving to where there these kinds appliances are already present - or simply do not have a car to move them around. And if you _do_ take on units needing small repairs, these are relatively simple machines so there's not really that many parts to go wrong with them. So fixes are fairly easy and don't require much skill, especially with UA-cam and google to help you.
I agree. I have pretty much taught myself how to do all of the repairs from reading and watching YT. Some of the electronics mystifies me. but I am attempting board repairs and sometimes succeeding, no repair person would ever do that, just a new parts swop. and for control boards and such it is too expensive usually. but as you know you can buy used machines for very little, people get new kitchens and want new appliances or renters move and the new place has appliances already. or they just don't have the means to move them. works for you. and it's always worth keeping a used item going even if it takes some time and ingenuity than throwing it out. good work!
let me know if you post some videos, I watch a guy in usa who posts videos about laundromats, but his brother has an appliance repair business, similar to you but maybe on a bigger scale. People love business/money/how to/repair videos, second income stream from YT?
Absolutely! I do microelectronics repair as a 2nd sidegig, from iphone pcb work to medical gear, and lesrned pretty much all of it from Jessa and Louis here on YT, plus eevblog and badcaps forums etc. So repairing appliance PCBs is comfort food :) it's usually fairly "rough and basic" electronics, and failure modes are very similar. Samsung washers for instance. Some of those machines are great performers, but notorious repeators for just 1-3 different failures/fixes. And often the warranty repair guys just replace the whole module but usually the new module has the same weakness. But actually fixing it so it doesn't happen again? Nah.
Hi!
I got same dryer, i can feel its heating all the way from the pump untill the condenser. From there its just cold pipes? Any advice?
If you care to do it, after every drying session, you take a vacuum cleaner, and vacuum carefully the front of the exchanger. It will help it to clog up less, as the front lint blocks the ones coming from behind and so on.
Cheers.
The issue is that on a machine that has had no maintenance you need to get back to a good starting place.
Im on my 2nd heat pump drier now.
I'm not convinced that the duty cycle is anywhere near what they say they are.
The previous AEG machene packed up after four years. Five visits from so-called repair technicians failed to fix it. When smoke started coming out after the last bodged repair attempt, I bought a new one.
Nice to see the price of these are coming down a bit now, but these and many other appliances should be more repair/service frendly.
excellent video! The best i found over the net in 2 hours of browsing. Thank you! My issue, should you be kind to help me out, is that it stopped get the clothes dry. It doesn't drain any water into the collection tank, and the clothes are wet in a warm way. It's getting warm however not hot. Before jumping into tearing it down, any idea what should the issue be? Thank you in advance!
Do you think it could be the issue shown in this video? Or do you think there is something else?
@@bootsowen i have to check the pump ( samsung b13-6aa01120) if it needs a replacement, cause i see a security mechanism on it that could prevent the dryer from normal functioning in case of water flooding. if that is not the case, i am thinking the extreme hot weather that we have at the moment, could? affect the thermostat in some weird way? no idea.
@@g159713I have the same issue. If you find a solution, I would be glad to hear it!
so I torn it apart, cleaned everything thoroughly, still not working. no heat generated at all, cycles as normal though, without condensing any water. Could the coolant be the issue? Or any thermostat? any idea?
So I did take everything apart once again, this time the condenser as well, I put it on the tub and washed it extensively. after the condenser got dry, because there were still remnants, I set it on fire! Yes, the front unit I set it on fire and most of the remnants are now gone. Very clean indeed. The dryer is now working, in a funny way though. it gets the clothes dry, it's getting hot nice and well, however, it doesn't condense any water on the tray! Nothing! No idea why, thought that the coolant is gone, however I set it to run without any housing, and it seems that the front part is getting hot and the rear is cool. not that cool though. I then noticed that the cooler fan, that sits on the front right lower edge was not spinning, so I removed it and tested it, and it's fine. If the coolant was gone then it wouldn't get the front evaporator hot nor the rear condenser cool, but I guess it's not as cool as it should? no idea. any help will be really appreciated. the water I think gets evaporated and goes away from the dryer. the laundry room doesn't seem to have any significant humidity, but it should be cause the weather is quite dry and the window is always open. Any idea plz?
I hope that's not typical of all of the designs. I would have taken the base design of the dryers we see in North America, where the drum rides on four wheels, made it completely open, but either put a condensate tray in the bottom eliminating the pump or putting the whole dehumidifier in the top instead of the bottom allowing the moisture to drain out by gravity into a nearby wash tub or washing machine drain.
The next step is making it as serviceable as possible, either making the whole dehumidifier assembly slide out on rails after removing a panel or making it so you have to only remove a small handful of fasteners to get to most of the machine. The belts on this machine also seem unnecessary. You only need one belt to drive the whole thing and that usually came with a device known as an idler pulley. I guess this may make it a bit noisier for houses in Europe but in North America our laundry rooms are typically either in the basement or out of the regular living space. The other thing I am worried about is filtration. These machines don't seem like the ideal environment for this style of dehumidifier as the condenser coils in them require relatively clean air to run through them to begin with and most older dehumidifiers I see have no aluminum fins on the coils, the coils are actually long, looping pieces of copper or aluminum as they typically run in our basements to begin with, not necessarily the most dust-free environments.
Our ducted systems, albeit wasteful as it pumps all of the heat out of the building, have a better tendency to move air and are easier to clean as well. Most of the time only requiring a vacuum cleaner and a brush. How many tools did you use to clean this thing? I saw a garden hose and nozzle, a brush, air compressor and a vacuum cleaner. I'm all for Occam's razor, but our system has its flaws as well, one of them being the leading cause of house fire, but that number may have a rival in the form of the battery electric vehicle, especially Tesla.
Yes, in a world where there is endless cheap green renewable energy your north american vented dryer has a place.
merci pour votre Tuto, resemble beaucoup au BELLAVITA DHP 8++ WMIC
Why are the fins so bent? I didn't catch that in the video, sorry if I missed the explanation! I always thought they would be straight as an arrow to improve airflow.
The previous owner tried to clean it with a hammer?
Thanks for the answer Some sold them with a text Selvcleaning Condenser.. I though the condenser was a plate with pipes on so the Dust was falling off But when it is build like that will all dust be in the Condenser and Evaporator.. Why have the company not let the bottom to be opening. So it is easier to Clean up.. Sorry my English. best regards and thanks for the Answer..
Great video thanks, there's not enough from actual manufacturers of these products explaining some of the facts and maintenance issues with these heat pump dryers!
Any ideas on what could cause the evaporator in mine to start getting warm after about 45 minutes of running? It is definetely cold to touch initially then definetely starts getting warm and it stops the drying process as it's just circulating hot steamy air with no dehumidifing going on. It's a 5yr old Samsung heat pump btw. Thanks!
The evaporator gets warm. Shouldn’t be an issue.
@@bootsowen ah ok thanks, also may have got the terminology wrong, the element that is supposed to get cold to condense the moisture in the air, that gets warm, so there is no dehumidifing of the air as it circulates.
I think that the fins that you touch when you pone the cover are the "cold" ones, and behind are the hot ones. But I think hot and clod are relative. Depending on what you have in there these machines can take ages to get going. over an hour. But you have watched my video I presume, are your fins clean? because if they are anything like this I imagine that you won't get great performance!
@@bootsowen thanks yeh i plan to strip down the ventilation and heat pump elements and wash them out like you did in your video. I've taken it apart a few times and the amount of lint inside after 5 years is rediculous, so i imagine the fins are just caked inside the unit.
I reckon I might do mine again sometime, I have been running it daily and I reckon there is fluff building up again. I plan to make a secondary filter for it. but I would like to power(jet) wash it first.
I have this exact model, and it too has a notable lack of drying ability. I disassembled mine in the hopes of encountering a massive fluff community...but mine was fairly clean throughout the internals. Hardly any fluff at all. Heat exchanger seemed all in order. For lack of fluff, what else could cause the unit to not dry the clothes?
Cracking video. I did similar on a bosch unit but it was still not working post rebuild... Now think it needs re-gased, any tips on doing that?
No idea. Maybe a car ac place could do it if you took out the unit? It can’t be that difficult for someone who knows. But I’m not that person!!
if it needs to be regassed then it means it has a leak so your gonna need to fix the leak first
Great video! I have had the same dryer from new but 9kg. There is no extra filter missing. The comb that comes with it is rubbish. Looks like I need to make a morning free and get down to cleaning!!!
Hey man I have a silvercrest swt 8a1 i bought from a retailer at a discount price. The timer programs work perfectly fine but all of the automatic programs do not work properly: The machine starts running but then after 20ish minutes the program stops and the machine displays End as in end of the program. And the clothes are still wet. With timer programs this does not happen and the machine goes all the way to the end by heating and everything and the clothes come out warm and dry. I thought the moisture sensor was faulty or unplugged but its just two metal plates with no electronics. I found continuity between the metal stripes and the respective pins on the plug that goes into the card. The specific card on this machine works fine because it was on another machine and the auto programs worked fine on it. The only thing that is left now is that the sensor wasn't plugged in the right spot in the card and i can see that there are 3 other spots empty on the card. Do you have any suggestions ? Would it be safe for me to plug the sensor plug in these 3 spots to test the machine or could that cause damage to it ?
surely, if you bought it from a retailer you could bring it back to a retailer.