By experience I can tell you that plexiglass, if you use this jig often, will get a lot of scratches by it being in direct contact with rough wood. Also, depending on the quality of it, plexiglass starts to yellow as time goes. Definitely not worth the time to do this over the original design which was great. What I would do to improve the original is drill more holes, of smaller size, spaced a little closer. It won't affect the structure of it and will help aligning the jig easier. Also I would made the bottom and top part of base either wider or will leave some wood tabs on it so I can put clamps on it and secure the jig to the table. If the lower part of the jig is perfectly square with the line of cut you can add also a small strip of wood on it so you can put the jig on the material to be cut and make the cut perfectly square with the lower edge of the board you're cutting.
I wanted a track saw but did not want to pay hundreds of dollars for one. Watched a ton of how to make tracks for saws on YT and found yours. By far the easiest to make and plenty accurate. Made one for my saw....thanks for coming up with this and especially sharing. Cheers from Canada.
Nice video, Sometimes I find that I spend more time watching videos and trying to make my own stuff than actually completing jobs that I need the tools or accessories for😂
LOL, my sentiments exactly! Only for me I'll just watch video after video learning how to do/make things but then never get around to actually making the darn things! In my head I'm a master carpenter, LOL 😂
Excellent first video and follow up her. I watch endless videos and assume myself to be an expert when I start making. Yet my first attempts with a router then a mitre saw were disastrous… I am now a theoretical expert in the construction of this guide; what could possibly go wrong?
I have seen a few videos on this subject but this is by far the best idea and so well explained, most ideas have a "allow the width of the plate element" but your line up holes are so simple, many thanks from John in England
This is one of the things I love about UA-cam, once something is here, it is here forever, and people like me can find it years later when we need this knowledge as well. I have been needing something like this, and this for sure is on my weekend build list for the new projects I have coming up. I really hate working with large sheet goods, and I am hoping this will help to change some of that.
As usual, Outstanding work. It’s also great that you took the feedback and improved the previous model. You are helping the community on a per video basis. Please keep it up.
For what I usually do...I'd say no, not really worth it. I'm just breaking down sheet goods and don't really need a finish-quality edge on my cuts. If I wear building furniture and had to use a track, then yes, it would be. I hope this helps!
A better update would be to leave a clamping lip on the sides and widen out to a triangle 500mm wide approx at one end so it makes setting up square easy and you only need to measure out one mark . Also why are the stop blocks required ?
Thank you for sharing your diy track saw design. I built two of them, one that can do up to a 5’ long cut and another that can do up to a 3’ long cut. I find myself using the 3’ long one about 80% of the time. The 3’ long one is perfect to handle anything that my cross cut sled can’t, and I rarely break out the longer one. The only modification I made to your design is to mark the top with tick marks every 2”.
SIGHT HOLES W/O PLEXIGLAS or POLYCARBONATE. I drill-press drilled a 1" sight hole with a Forstner bit but stopping 1/8" from the bottom. I am easily able to see the pencil line. Because the grain of remaining wood at the bottom of the sight hole is running lengthwise, it is not inclined to break away. STEP 1) Score a line with the saw blade. 2) Drill the sight holes. 3) Complete the saw cut full depth. Perhaps a better option might be a large V-shaped router bit to create a "sight groove," again leaving about 1/8" square edge at the bottom. This would provide even better edge support. (Good video Tommy. Clear and easy to follow. Thanks!)
Nice. I made something similar for one of my routers for cutting dados, really helps to trap the router base rather than trying to ride 1 edge only. Also added a cleat on the bottom to register on the work edge and produce a square cut. With almost 400 comments I'm sure more than 1 person has already suggested this :)
Thank you! All sorts of ideas have been shared, and I can't remember specifically if that one has been mentioned, so thanks for taking the time to share it!
Built one for myself yesterday on your earlier design and it works well! I made sure I did the sight holes before I ran the saw. I used the saw’s sight marker at the front to run a pencil line down the base so my holes would be centred. I built it out of mdf custom wood and lacquered it
👍 Way to take your viewer feedback and run with it! It was good that you showed what the issue with the Masonite is, rather than just leaving it out of the video.
Love the upgrades! To help glue adhesion to plastic, lightly flame the area to be glued. Do not melt the plastic, you just need to change the surface energy. Works with all adhesion on Plastics: glue; paint; ink; etc Thanks for sharing the updates. db
Nice bit of kit matey. the only thing i've added to my build, is red marker to each side of of the Plexi cuts on the bottom edge. it makes sighting for the line a little easier. Grand project thank you
When I was still working in a cabinet and mill shop, one of the things we did was take a piece of 1/32" laminate, and glue to the base of the saw, and glue a piece onto the plywood, before attaching your side rails. If you use 1/16" on your plywood, it will make it stronger. I am going to try something like this out of a 1" x 12", because I want to cut 8 ft. sheets of plywood on an angle. I am going to build a church steeple, that is 8 sided. I am planning on usining1/4 inch flat aluminum for my guides. I like your sight holes and will use those. Love the build. I hope this suggestion helps.
@@OneMinuteWorkbench I used a laminate kitchen counter top that a friend was tossing out. A local kitchen shop sold me leftover laminate edgeband for a couple of double doubles( Tim Hortons coffee) I used for the inside guide track edges. Stands up well to the repetitious saw movements. Thanks for the design updates and idea.
Great adds to your first build. In our shop I had built a guide out of VHMW that over time warped. I am going to give your build a shot. II love the sight holes....that was genius.
Thanks for sharing! I've done it and it works really well. I just need to install the plexiglass to complete it. I've used a 3/4 inch baltic birch and made it 60 inches long to be able to cut plywood of 48 inches in one time. I really appreciate the simple design and the precision of the cut.
Both are great videos, I've watched a few different videos on this subject and I'm going to build one just like the second. Also, great of you to add the part about motor clearance, I know I'd have forgotten to check that ahead of time. Thank you, and glad to have found your channel
I made one of these after watching your first video. Works extremely well and has taken a lot of the hassle out of breaking down sheets of plywood. Love the fact that it is so easy to use, I made it from left overs and it seems to work as well (if not better) than commercial jigs that cost a lot of money. Thanks.
TO make a splinter free cut first make a "kiss" cut . set the saw depth to just barely cut thru the top surface then lower the blade to cut all the way thru. I have a sharpie mark on the depth adjustment to quickly set the " Kiss" cut/ depth High end cabinet table saws have a small kerf blade directly in line with the main blade making a kerf cut does the same thing the kiss cut does
best DIY saw track yet !!!!!, i used your idea but with 2 changes , i used aluminum flat bar for the rails and then used UHMW tape on the sides of the flat bar and a 3/4 in strip on each side of the flat bar on the plywood and that made the saw slide like it is on ice
The plexiglass just adds the ability to exactly site the cut. You can see exactly which side of your cut line your on. Great for an exact cut and a great idea for those who need that for say, furniture and don't have or can't use a table saw for it.
@@philipgwyn8091 Having something in contact with the workpiece for the length of the cut prevents "tear out," or splintering on the surface of your piece. The rest of the cut, the track itself is doing that. Putting plexi in the sight holes doesn't interrupt that contact but still lets you see through them.
Hi Tommy, about an hour ago I finished making one of your saw tracks. I used 3/16 medium density fiberboard to cover the 1/2 " plywood tract. The fiberboard makes a smooth track for the saw. New topic: A few weeks ago, I made two zero-clearance throat plates for my table saw. One from acrylic and the other from polycarbonate. No doubt about it, acrylic is much easier to work with. I guess I missed the part in your current video where you explained the benefit of adding a plastic window to your saw track. If the reason is compelling, I'll use the acrylic. Thanks for the great ideas.
Thanks for sharing about your builds! The only reason to add plexiglass is to reduce tear-out at the sight hole locations. With plexiglass added, the entire track becomes "zero-clearance" on both sides of the blade. I hope this helps! Thanks again!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench One Minute Workbench I'm sorry, I must have heard wrong. I thought you said you used polycarbonate for your windows. Just so we're both on the same page acrylic is the name of the material, Plexiglas is one of the brand names. Polycarbonate is a different plastic. It is much more impact resistant but, and this a very big but for this application, it scratches more easily. Since scratching is a possibility, you may want to use Acrylic (Plexiglas) instead of polycarbonate. I'm going to try to cut circles of acrylic and glue them into the holes. Thanks again for the idea.
I was using Plexiglass as a generic term (like using Coke to describe any cola). That said, I did use polycarbonate, just because it was the smallest and cheapest sheet I could find at Home Depot. I haven't had any problems with it, but I'm sure there could be different plastics that are better suited to the application. Let me know how it goes with your circle cutting idea!
Very very nice. The smallest sheet of Lexan I could buy was 10x8, so I made a series of sight "slots" rather than holes by drilling pairs of holes about 6" apart and then cutting out between them with a jigsaw. It turned out this lets me see the line while looking ahead at an angle rather than having to look straight down. I'm thinking I will make another one that will let me rip an 8' sheet. I'll try joining a couple of plywood strips end-to-end with a table lap to get the length, and the side rails should give enough rigidity to protect the joint.
Nice work I like that design I made a couple changes to it I made the bottom out of quarter inch to reduce the amount of loss for depth of cut and I made it wider because the quarter inch was kind of wobbly I also put two strips of sandpaper on the bottom so I can just set it down it doesn't slip around then and you don't need to clamp it but thanks it's a great idea
After viewing your original video, I thought about it and decided a bunch of strips acrylic (or polycarbonate) along the whole length would make visibility better. No real need for the adjacent edges of the strips to glued together, just butt them up. Also, something I've not seen in any UA-cam video is how to make a non-slip bottom. Long ago, I noticed your ordinary RTV silicone sealant is pretty grippy when cured. I apply a uniform strip of the RTV silicone with a putty knife with a couple of suitable diameter wires on the edge of the putty knife to act as a spacer make a uniform layer.
I’d love to see a video of what you’re referring to. I can’t quite picture what u mean, and I doubt there aren’t others in the same boat as I am in. Thanks in advance!
You could add built in led lights on the bottom side of the plywood around the poly inserts so in situations with dimmer lights, you can still be able to see your line.
Nice. Going to give this a shot - I have six knotty pine closet doors to hang and will need to trim edges to size, and perhaps take a bit off top/bottom. Look forward to trying this out.
Nice video! I know that this video is over 5 years old, but I wanted to make one comment. 1/4" hardboard would probably have worked if you had continued to use 1/2" or 3/4" plywood for the sides and the stops and only used the hardboard only for the bottom. This would give you the maximum possible cut depth. Just cut the hardboard a little wider and longer than needed and then glue the plywood strips to the hardboard, and once the glue has dried trim off the excess hardboard. Flat L-brackets in the corners on top of the plywood would add some more strength. Oh, saw this on another video on making circular saw guides to add make these non-slip just like the fancy track saw tracks. He put three pieces of blue tape the length of the guide to frame two strips of the bottom of the guide. Then he applied clear 100% silicone caulk along those strips and then used a plastic card riding on the strips of tape to spread the caulk in thin and even layer and to remove any excess. Once the caulk has dried, then just peel off the tape and you have two non-slip strips along the bottom. I might go with two thicknesses of blue tape to get a little thicker layer of caulk.
Thanks for sharing Tommy, this is my go-to saw track. Just have to drill my holes (11/4") and run the track with my skill saw (in that order). Great directions for the build!
You should have used the masonite as the base, but not for the rails. It doesnt need to be straight if your rails are. Then you get more depth and a surface with less friction.
Your polycarbonate windows gave me an idea to use some acrylic that I have for the whole bottom of guide...that way easy to see the wood that I am cutting. Still a very good simple idea of the rectangular frame for track saw build.
The hardboard is too thin for the guide pieces, but it's perfect for the base piece. You don't have to worry about the flexibility because the guide pieces will add enough rigidity.
I read all the comments. My only question is why so many people ask the same question when it has already been answered? I suspect it's because they don't bother to read before posting. Anyway I am gathering scrap material for my build. I'm one of those that always seems to get a wandering cut with just a simple clamped straight edge.
Quick tip I learned on my chop saw but it will work and may help on these as well. So on ur 2 long parallel peices that keep ur saw in line, cut the bottom inner edges at a 45⁰ and it will allow saw dust to not build up pushing ur saw up and out, not sure if that's an issue yet (I've yet to build one, but am definitely going to) just a thought! Overall love ur channel man great vids and excellent work! 👍🏻
@@wongcw08 having a zero clearence means there will be less chance of tear out when the blade is cutting. Hope this helps. If not look up zero clearence table saw throat plates on UA-cam.
In addition to zero clearance it looks like it will be easier to align you marks because you can see the edge of the cut on the lexan. That to me seems like the biggest advantage.
There may be an easier way to fit the polycarbonate windows. With a mortise and tenon, cutting the mortise first makes it easier to fit the tenon, because it is easier to trim the tenon. For your site holes try routing on the inset on track first. It might be worth using a simple template to create a rectangular shape. The size is not critical, but a rectangle will make it easier to cut the polycarbonate window to fit. Next, you may round the polycarbonate corners with a disc or belt sander. Or you could square the rounded corners on the track left by the router. Either way will avoid the need for hot glue as a filler.
I have an upgrade suggestion for your design, add T-Slot track on the underside to be able to use track clamps to attach the guide rail to the workpiece from the underside. That way the clamps would not interfere with the saw. On my Makita the motor sticks out 3 1/4" from the saw base plate so the clamps can't be within that distance of the saw.
The first one was simple and worked great! The purpose of the holes was to see the cut line . So the question on this one is adding the plexiglass did what? The purpose of the holes is still to see the cut line ? All I saw was additional work and expense for zero gain in what the original design did.
Yes - the first one was simple, and in most cases, this build would be overkill. I think the big thing I forgot to mention in this video was that the plexiglass continues the zero-clearance slot, even through the site hole locations. The other thing I should have mentioned is that since most people use tracks like this for breaking down sheet goods, it's not really worth making sure the zero-clearance is 100%. The only time you'd really need that is if you're making furniture quality cuts on edges that will be exposed in the final piece. So again, this one is just overkill for most people in most scenarios. I hope this make sense!
2 GREAT VIDEOS!. I've also noticed the need for a track on both sides, especially as my Makita has a factory-designed cutaway on its base at rear left (What was the engineer thinking? Did Makita want to save $ !?). Indeed, it is important to check there's clearance under the motor. Also, as it's necessary to clamp during sawing, it's vital to have a margin so that the motor also clears the clamps. My first attempt with a single track had this fault. Many thanks.
Whoever suggested the masonite probably meant to glue it to plywood, then cut it to size. Plywood makes it rigid and the masonite makes the saw slide easier. Of course just the good quality plywood with a good paste wax accomplishes the same thing and less work.
Well done, a really good design tracksaw. Something to be aware of when using superglue with clear plastics. Superglue is used to develop fingerprints on surfaces by forensics. The superglue fumes react with the oils left by the fingerprints and leave a very pronounced permanent print that was previously invisible. I don't know if any fingerprints appeared on your clear plastic veiwholes after gluing but it is a risk when using superglue around any clear plastic.
I suspect the masonite suggestion was for the bottom plate only; you'd still use timber for the guides/stops for stiffness/rigidity. Irrespective an excellent project and I'll be giving it a crack (once I upgrade my saw). Thanks! :)
excellent and i like this follow up video also. my track saw is a budget one and the rubber edge of the metal track is beginning to get cut away so you cant get a perfect line so i am looking to make this track saw out of ply that you have done! i wont be using the plexiglass though mostly because 1) a lot more work vs the end result. 2) for me i work in different light so sometimes outside. sometimes inside and the plexiglass edge can cast a shadow over the line making it harder to see. and also then dust getting on it and plexiglass scratches up easy so the original idea is best :)
Instead of plywood or masonite as the base, with polycarbonate inserts, just make the base of polycarbonate. It comes in various thicknesses. It is laser straight from the factory. It may be too slippery against the work surface if not clamped, though.
You could just use the Plexiglas or Lexan for the bottom and make your picture frame on top of that. The track does not need to support the weight of the saw, the material you are cutting should do that. You would then have a clear base to easily see your cut marks or line.
Definitely an option, but only if you have a good source for low-cost Lexan. A sheet that big might be pretty pricey, and could defeat the cost of a low-cost track saw. I hope this helps!
use a hole saw to make the sight holes, it's a cleaner cut and improves the accuracy of the alignment with the pencil mark. No need for plexiglass inserts then?
Love the idea, but hit a bit of a snag...when we went to make our first cut into the jig to complete it, it had changed from the previous day when we built it. It had shrunk and the saw couldn't be forced through. We got about halfway. We undid one side of screws, broke the glue up and now we're going to redo that side. A little wood putty for the crappy plywood we used, and maybe this time we can get it to work. :-/ The metal on the sole plate must have expanded just enough to bind up the saw. Not sure how to allow for that...suggestions welcomed!
Wish I had seen this before cutting my benchtops :D Would have made the cut a little better I think. I will definitely be making on for any future projects I may have to use the saw for. Great videos by the way.
I like the Lexan addition! I'm wondering if adding a piece of the molding on the underneath side at one end, perpendicular like a T-square, would facilitate ease of use (like only needing to clamp one end, easily squaring the cut to that edge, etc.). Also, if splicing with half lap joints to make a 108" guide would help break down plywood, where a full-length rip cut is needed.
YEEEEAAAAH SPLICING WITH HALF LAP ON THE GUIDE RAILS AND THEN DOING THE SAME WITH THE BASE PLATE WOULD CREATE LIKE A FINGER JOINT EFFECT THAT WOULD BE SUPER STRONG GREAT IDEA!!
By experience I can tell you that plexiglass, if you use this jig often, will get a lot of scratches by it being in direct contact with rough wood. Also, depending on the quality of it, plexiglass starts to yellow as time goes. Definitely not worth the time to do this over the original design which was great.
What I would do to improve the original is drill more holes, of smaller size, spaced a little closer. It won't affect the structure of it and will help aligning the jig easier. Also I would made the bottom and top part of base either wider or will leave some wood tabs on it so I can put clamps on it and secure the jig to the table. If the lower part of the jig is perfectly square with the line of cut you can add also a small strip of wood on it so you can put the jig on the material to be cut and make the cut perfectly square with the lower edge of the board you're cutting.
Good stuff - thanks for the suggestions!
I wanted a track saw but did not want to pay hundreds of dollars for one. Watched a ton of how to make tracks for saws on YT and found yours. By far the easiest to make and plenty accurate. Made one for my saw....thanks for coming up with this and especially sharing. Cheers from Canada.
Nice video, Sometimes I find that I spend more time watching videos and trying to make my own stuff than actually completing jobs that I need the tools or accessories for😂
Don't worry...you're not the only one 😉
Exactly. I'm the same way. I could just cut this plywood, but first, a jig! Maybe a sliding table, no, a panel saw. Hey, this track saw looks good!
LOL, my sentiments exactly! Only for me I'll just watch video after video learning how to do/make things but then never get around to actually making the darn things! In my head I'm a master carpenter, LOL 😂
Recognizable comment...
Excellent first video and follow up her.
I watch endless videos and assume myself to be an expert when I start making. Yet my first attempts with a router then a mitre saw were disastrous…
I am now a theoretical expert in the construction of this guide; what could possibly go wrong?
I have seen a few videos on this subject but this is by far the best idea and so well explained, most ideas have a "allow the width of the plate element" but your line up holes are so simple, many thanks from John in England
This is one of the things I love about UA-cam, once something is here, it is here forever, and people like me can find it years later when we need this knowledge as well. I have been needing something like this, and this for sure is on my weekend build list for the new projects I have coming up. I really hate working with large sheet goods, and I am hoping this will help to change some of that.
As usual, Outstanding work. It’s also great that you took the feedback and improved the previous model. You are helping the community on a per video basis. Please keep it up.
Thank you for the wonderful compliment! I truly appreciate it!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench I am just wondering if the plastic made a difference. Was it worth it?
For what I usually do...I'd say no, not really worth it. I'm just breaking down sheet goods and don't really need a finish-quality edge on my cuts. If I wear building furniture and had to use a track, then yes, it would be. I hope this helps!
A better update would be to leave a clamping lip on the sides and widen out to a triangle 500mm wide approx at one end so it makes setting up square easy and you only need to measure out one mark . Also why are the stop blocks required ?
Zane thanks for the suggestions! The stop blocks keep you from cutting the track in half. I hope this helps!
Thank you for sharing your diy track saw design. I built two of them, one that can do up to a 5’ long cut and another that can do up to a 3’ long cut. I find myself using the 3’ long one about 80% of the time. The 3’ long one is perfect to handle anything that my cross cut sled can’t, and I rarely break out the longer one. The only modification I made to your design is to mark the top with tick marks every 2”.
SIGHT HOLES W/O PLEXIGLAS or POLYCARBONATE.
I drill-press drilled a 1" sight hole with a Forstner bit but stopping 1/8" from the bottom. I am easily able to see the pencil line. Because the grain of remaining wood at the bottom of the sight hole is running lengthwise, it is not inclined to break away. STEP 1) Score a line with the saw blade. 2) Drill the sight holes. 3) Complete the saw cut full depth.
Perhaps a better option might be a large V-shaped router bit to create a "sight groove," again leaving about 1/8" square edge at the bottom. This would provide even better edge support.
(Good video Tommy. Clear and easy to follow. Thanks!)
Nice. I made something similar for one of my routers for cutting dados, really helps to trap the router base rather than trying to ride 1 edge only. Also added a cleat on the bottom to register on the work edge and produce a square cut. With almost 400 comments I'm sure more than 1 person has already suggested this :)
Thank you! All sorts of ideas have been shared, and I can't remember specifically if that one has been mentioned, so thanks for taking the time to share it!
Built one for myself yesterday on your earlier design and it works well! I made sure I did the sight holes before I ran the saw. I used the saw’s sight marker at the front to run a pencil line down the base so my holes would be centred. I built it out of mdf custom wood and lacquered it
Nice! Thanks for sharing!
👍 Way to take your viewer feedback and run with it! It was good that you showed what the issue with the Masonite is, rather than just leaving it out of the video.
Best saw guide on UA-cam, just saved me buying a kreg track.
Glad you found it helpful!
Love the upgrades!
To help glue adhesion to plastic, lightly flame the area to be glued. Do not melt the plastic, you just need to change the surface energy.
Works with all adhesion on Plastics: glue; paint; ink; etc
Thanks for sharing the updates.
db
Thanks, and thanks for the tip!
Nice touch with the plexiglass
Thank you!
Nice bit of kit matey. the only thing i've added to my build, is red marker to each side of of the Plexi cuts on the bottom edge. it makes sighting for the line a little easier. Grand project thank you
When I was still working in a cabinet and mill shop, one of the things we did was take a piece of 1/32" laminate, and glue to the base of the saw, and glue a piece onto the plywood, before attaching your side rails. If you use 1/16" on your plywood, it will make it stronger. I am going to try something like this out of a 1" x 12", because I want to cut 8 ft. sheets of plywood on an angle. I am going to build a church steeple, that is 8 sided. I am planning on usining1/4 inch flat aluminum for my guides. I like your sight holes and will use those. Love the build. I hope this suggestion helps.
Ted, thanks for sharing about your experience! Good luck with the jig build, and the steeple - let me know how it goes!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench I used a laminate kitchen counter top that a friend was tossing out. A local kitchen shop sold me leftover laminate edgeband for a couple of double doubles( Tim Hortons coffee) I used for the inside guide track edges.
Stands up well to the repetitious saw movements. Thanks for the design updates and idea.
Great adds to your first build. In our shop I had built a guide out of VHMW that over time warped. I am going to give your build a shot. II love the sight holes....that was genius.
Thanks for sharing! I've done it and it works really well. I just need to install the plexiglass to complete it. I've used a 3/4 inch baltic birch and made it 60 inches long to be able to cut plywood of 48 inches in one time. I really appreciate the simple design and the precision of the cut.
No problem! I'm glad it worked out for you!
Again I like how you show what works and what doesn't.
Your design is the simplest and most innovative I have seen in my tour of utube. Congratulations.
Thank you, Thomas! I have to admit I'm pretty proud of my track design, so I really appreciate the compliment! 🙂
Both are great videos, I've watched a few different videos on this subject and I'm going to build one just like the second. Also, great of you to add the part about motor clearance, I know I'd have forgotten to check that ahead of time. Thank you, and glad to have found your channel
I made one of these after watching your first video. Works extremely well and has taken a lot of the hassle out of breaking down sheets of plywood. Love the fact that it is so easy to use, I made it from left overs and it seems to work as well (if not better) than commercial jigs that cost a lot of money. Thanks.
Awesome! I'm glad it's working out for you - thanks for letting me know!
The old guide I had went to the trash, I liked yours, so went and made one for my 71/4 in, one for 5.5in and one small for my Jig saw.
Awesome! That's a great compliment - thank you!
TO make a splinter free cut first make a "kiss" cut . set the saw depth to just barely cut thru the top surface then lower the blade to cut all the way thru. I have a sharpie mark on the depth adjustment to quickly set the " Kiss" cut/ depth High end cabinet table saws have a small kerf blade directly in line with the main blade making a kerf cut does the same thing the kiss cut does
Thanks for the tip!
Your ingenuity and talent for simple yet brilliant design is rare. My attempts at a diy track saw were pitiful, considering how much time I spent
Thank you for the wonderful compliments! Good luck with your next go round at a track saw!
best DIY saw track yet !!!!!, i used your idea but with 2 changes , i used aluminum flat bar for the rails and then used UHMW tape on the sides of the flat bar and a 3/4 in strip on each side of the flat bar on the plywood and that made the saw slide like it is on ice
Thanks - you build sounds awesome!
Just came across your channel and I like your concise presentation and speed filming so we don't have to watch every screw go in.
Best diy track saw ever i build one and it's working like a boss thanks for sharing bro really great idea 5 star ratings.
Thank you, Carl! I'm glad you're getting some good use out of it!
You could round the corners and edges of the plexiglass with sandpaper instead of using the hot glue to prevent sharp edges from cutting you.
Thanks for sharing that idea!
I'm trying to figure out how the plexiglass is better then just a hole...
@@philipgwyn8091 Im guessing cause it keeps the sawdust from falling down on the piece?
The plexiglass just adds the ability to exactly site the cut. You can see exactly which side of your cut line your on. Great for an exact cut and a great idea for those who need that for say, furniture and don't have or can't use a table saw for it.
@@philipgwyn8091 Having something in contact with the workpiece for the length of the cut prevents "tear out," or splintering on the surface of your piece. The rest of the cut, the track itself is doing that. Putting plexi in the sight holes doesn't interrupt that contact but still lets you see through them.
Nice saw guide. Add zip flashing tape to the bottom and the jig won't slide around when not using clamps.
Thanks for the suggestion!
Hi Tommy, about an hour ago I finished making one of your saw tracks. I used 3/16 medium density fiberboard to cover the 1/2 " plywood tract. The fiberboard makes a smooth track for the saw.
New topic: A few weeks ago, I made two zero-clearance throat plates for my table saw. One from acrylic and the other from polycarbonate. No doubt about it, acrylic is much easier to work with.
I guess I missed the part in your current video where you explained the benefit of adding a plastic window to your saw track. If the reason is compelling, I'll use the acrylic.
Thanks for the great ideas.
Thanks for sharing about your builds! The only reason to add plexiglass is to reduce tear-out at the sight hole locations. With plexiglass added, the entire track becomes "zero-clearance" on both sides of the blade. I hope this helps! Thanks again!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench One Minute Workbench I'm sorry, I must have heard wrong. I thought you said you used polycarbonate for your windows. Just so we're both on the same page acrylic is the name of the material, Plexiglas is one of the brand names. Polycarbonate is a different plastic. It is much more impact resistant but, and this a very big but for this application, it scratches more easily. Since scratching is a possibility, you may want to use Acrylic (Plexiglas) instead of polycarbonate. I'm going to try to cut circles of acrylic and glue them into the holes. Thanks again for the idea.
I was using Plexiglass as a generic term (like using Coke to describe any cola). That said, I did use polycarbonate, just because it was the smallest and cheapest sheet I could find at Home Depot. I haven't had any problems with it, but I'm sure there could be different plastics that are better suited to the application. Let me know how it goes with your circle cutting idea!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench No doubt about it, that's the thing to do.
Very very nice. The smallest sheet of Lexan I could buy was 10x8, so I made a series of sight "slots" rather than holes by drilling pairs of holes about 6" apart and then cutting out between them with a jigsaw. It turned out this lets me see the line while looking ahead at an angle rather than having to look straight down. I'm thinking I will make another one that will let me rip an 8' sheet. I'll try joining a couple of plywood strips end-to-end with a table lap to get the length, and the side rails should give enough rigidity to protect the joint.
Thanks for sharing about your version! Let me know how it goes with the 8-footer!
Nice work I like that design I made a couple changes to it I made the bottom out of quarter inch to reduce the amount of loss for depth of cut and I made it wider because the quarter inch was kind of wobbly I also put two strips of sandpaper on the bottom so I can just set it down it doesn't slip around then and you don't need to clamp it but thanks it's a great idea
Great idea Mr, I will be building one in the morning.
Thanks for the design
Ron, you're very welcome!
The video/ commentary Details to your process (mistakes included) , Are *GOLD !!* 😎👍💯
Thank you! I'm glad you dig it!
One Minute Workbench track saw
I like you first one. More simple
After viewing your original video, I thought about it and decided a bunch of strips acrylic (or polycarbonate) along the whole length would make visibility better. No real need for the adjacent edges of the strips to glued together, just butt them up. Also, something I've not seen in any UA-cam video is how to make a non-slip bottom. Long ago, I noticed your ordinary RTV silicone sealant is pretty grippy when cured. I apply a uniform strip of the RTV silicone with a putty knife with a couple of suitable diameter wires on the edge of the putty knife to act as a spacer make a uniform layer.
Thanks for sharing your ideas!
I’d love to see a video of what you’re referring to. I can’t quite picture what u mean, and I doubt there aren’t others in the same boat as I am in. Thanks in advance!
You could add built in led lights on the bottom side of the plywood around the poly inserts so in situations with dimmer lights, you can still be able to see your line.
Cool idea!
Nice. Going to give this a shot - I have six knotty pine closet doors to hang and will need to trim edges to size, and perhaps take a bit off top/bottom. Look forward to trying this out.
Thanks! Good luck with the project!
Nice video! I know that this video is over 5 years old, but I wanted to make one comment. 1/4" hardboard would probably have worked if you had continued to use 1/2" or 3/4" plywood for the sides and the stops and only used the hardboard only for the bottom. This would give you the maximum possible cut depth. Just cut the hardboard a little wider and longer than needed and then glue the plywood strips to the hardboard, and once the glue has dried trim off the excess hardboard. Flat L-brackets in the corners on top of the plywood would add some more strength.
Oh, saw this on another video on making circular saw guides to add make these non-slip just like the fancy track saw tracks. He put three pieces of blue tape the length of the guide to frame two strips of the bottom of the guide. Then he applied clear 100% silicone caulk along those strips and then used a plastic card riding on the strips of tape to spread the caulk in thin and even layer and to remove any excess. Once the caulk has dried, then just peel off the tape and you have two non-slip strips along the bottom. I might go with two thicknesses of blue tape to get a little thicker layer of caulk.
I think using 1/4 inch Plywood for the jig would result in a much lighter Jig and easy to carry.
Thanks for sharing Tommy, this is my go-to saw track. Just have to drill my holes (11/4") and run the track with my skill saw (in that order). Great directions for the build!
Though I'd lost this video, and was glad to relocate it and the updated version. Super jig!!!!
You should have used the masonite as the base, but not for the rails. It doesnt need to be straight if your rails are. Then you get more depth and a surface with less friction.
Masonite is not as good as you think it is. I thought he demonstrated that pretty well in the video.
@@RyeOnHam You missed the point.
@@jonathansimmonds5784 Okay, Norm Abram, tell me the point I missed.
@@RyeOnHam in the video he used the Masonite for rails. It was too flexible. Using it as the base with plywood rails should work fine.
@@dancingbear6239 HaHa, Norm Abram Oh Lord!
Your polycarbonate windows gave me an idea to use some acrylic that I have for the whole bottom of guide...that way easy to see the wood that I am cutting. Still a very good simple idea of the rectangular frame for track saw build.
Great idea!
I made one myself and it worked great!
Thank you so much 😊
I would like to see one made with plexiglass as the base material with plywood track guides-I will try it. Thanks for the design!
NICE UPDATE !! Thanks !!
Nice upgrade. Thanks mate
Thank you!
Nice improvement with the plexiglass. Now u just need some grip tape on the bottom and some wax where the saw slides and u won’t need to clamp it down
Thank you, and thanks for the suggestions!
Your ideas are going on my “ I would like to have list.” Thank you for videos.
Thank you for the wonderful compliment! And you're very welcome!
Made a comment on the first video, glad you made the update, and some of those folks made some great suggestions.
The hardboard is too thin for the guide pieces, but it's perfect for the base piece. You don't have to worry about the flexibility because the guide pieces will add enough rigidity.
Thanks for sharing that idea!
Love this tracksaw concept! If the sight hole was just half a circle you would still be able to see your line and eliminate the tear out also.
Thanks! And thanks for sharing that idea!
I might be able to help, I have half a drill bit laying around ;)
I'm having a problem sourcing a set of drills that cut semi circles..... idiot!
I read all the comments. My only question is why so many people ask the same question when it has already been answered? I suspect it's because they don't bother to read before posting. Anyway I am gathering scrap material for my build. I'm one of those that always seems to get a wandering cut with just a simple clamped straight edge.
Quick tip I learned on my chop saw but it will work and may help on these as well. So on ur 2 long parallel peices that keep ur saw in line, cut the bottom inner edges at a 45⁰ and it will allow saw dust to not build up pushing ur saw up and out, not sure if that's an issue yet (I've yet to build one, but am definitely going to) just a thought! Overall love ur channel man great vids and excellent work! 👍🏻
Thank you, and thanks for sharing that great idea!
Great job
Thank you, Monnie!
Thanks so much, really simple and easy for a novice like me
I’m glad you found it helpful!
After watching your original track video, I really don’t understand the purpose of the poly inserts.
What did I miss?
It creates "zero-clearance" at the sight-hole locations. I hope this helps!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench Hi. May I know what is the purpose of zero clearance?
@@wongcw08 having a zero clearence means there will be less chance of tear out when the blade is cutting. Hope this helps. If not look up zero clearence table saw throat plates on UA-cam.
In addition to zero clearance it looks like it will be easier to align you marks because you can see the edge of the cut on the lexan. That to me seems like the biggest advantage.
By the size of the holes honestly the zero clearance aspect won't be of much difference.
There may be an easier way to fit the polycarbonate windows. With a mortise and tenon, cutting the mortise first makes it easier to fit the tenon, because it is easier to trim the tenon.
For your site holes try routing on the inset on track first. It might be worth using a simple template to create a rectangular shape. The size is not critical, but a rectangle will make it easier to cut the polycarbonate window to fit. Next, you may round the polycarbonate corners with a disc or belt sander. Or you could square the rounded corners on the track left by the router. Either way will avoid the need for hot glue as a filler.
Thanks for the suggestions!
Thanks
Great I just watched the original saw track build. I think I will radius the Plexiglas and eliminate the hot glue filler.
Thank you! Good luck with the project!
Straight edge and two clamps works great
It certainly fits the bill for simple!
I have an upgrade suggestion for your design, add T-Slot track on the underside to be able to use track clamps to attach the guide rail to the workpiece from the underside. That way the clamps would not interfere with the saw. On my Makita the motor sticks out 3 1/4" from the saw base plate so the clamps can't be within that distance of the saw.
I didn't think super glue would stick like that. Nice.
Great work, thanks for sharing. I would have liked to see how you made the holes before the cut in this version.
Thanks! I just scored a line with the saw (only about 1/16th deep), then used that as a guide for drilling the holes. I hope this helps!
The first one was simple and worked great! The purpose of the holes was to see the cut line . So the question on this one is adding the plexiglass did what? The purpose of the holes is still to see the cut line ? All I saw was additional work and expense for zero gain in what the original design did.
Yes - the first one was simple, and in most cases, this build would be overkill. I think the big thing I forgot to mention in this video was that the plexiglass continues the zero-clearance slot, even through the site hole locations. The other thing I should have mentioned is that since most people use tracks like this for breaking down sheet goods, it's not really worth making sure the zero-clearance is 100%. The only time you'd really need that is if you're making furniture quality cuts on edges that will be exposed in the final piece. So again, this one is just overkill for most people in most scenarios. I hope this make sense!
I think chiseling the corners for the plexiglass would have been faster than the hot-glue.
What a great idea for a track. Always tried to figure out how to build one for myself, now i know how. Thank you!
No problem! I'm glad you found it useful!
Great idea the saw track
Thank you, Juan!
2 GREAT VIDEOS!. I've also noticed the need for a track on both sides, especially as my Makita has a factory-designed cutaway on its base at rear left (What was the engineer thinking? Did Makita want to save $ !?). Indeed, it is important to check there's clearance under the motor. Also, as it's necessary to clamp during sawing, it's vital to have a margin so that the motor also clears the clamps. My first attempt with a single track had this fault. Many thanks.
Thank you - I'm glad you enjoyed the videos!
Very cool yes I like the plexiglass inlay
Thank you!
Very nice. Simple and effective.
Thank you!
Whoever suggested the masonite probably meant to glue it to plywood, then cut it to size. Plywood makes it rigid and the masonite makes the saw slide easier. Of course just the good quality plywood with a good paste wax accomplishes the same thing and less work.
Ever hear of wax paste?
This is amazing, so glad I found your channel. Lots of great ideas here.
Thank you so much for the very nice compliment! Welcome to the channel!
Well done, a really good design tracksaw.
Something to be aware of when using superglue with clear plastics. Superglue is used to develop fingerprints on surfaces by forensics. The superglue fumes react with the oils left by the fingerprints and leave a very pronounced permanent print that was previously invisible. I don't know if any fingerprints appeared on your clear plastic veiwholes after gluing but it is a risk when using superglue around any clear plastic.
I’ll do the same to the track I built from your site. Cool idea.
I just built my own, great staff
Awesome! Thanks for sharing!
I made something like this a while ago and it is a jig i almost use every time in my workshop! thanks for sharing your ideas!
Thanks and you're welcome!
I made one the same ! Awsome !! Best thing i have made ! Thanks for the idea 😊😁
Very good will try it
I suspect the masonite suggestion was for the bottom plate only; you'd still use timber for the guides/stops for stiffness/rigidity.
Irrespective an excellent project and I'll be giving it a crack (once I upgrade my saw). Thanks! :)
Thank you, and good luck with the project!
excellent and i like this follow up video also. my track saw is a budget one and the rubber edge of the metal track is beginning to get cut away so you cant get a perfect line so i am looking to make this track saw out of ply that you have done!
i wont be using the plexiglass though mostly because 1) a lot more work vs the end result.
2) for me i work in different light so sometimes outside. sometimes inside and the plexiglass edge can cast a shadow over the line making it harder to see. and also then dust getting on it and plexiglass scratches up easy so the original idea is best :)
Instead of plywood or masonite as the base, with polycarbonate inserts, just make the base of polycarbonate. It comes in various thicknesses. It is laser straight from the factory. It may be too slippery against the work surface if not clamped, though.
Really great idea...
Thank you!
Very good idea
Thank you!
I built one but instead of drilling the holes I cut the line about 1/8 of an inch and use that to drill the holes and then cut right through
To prevent slipping, it might be an idea to glue some sandpaper on the bottom. Haven't tried it yet, but thinking about testing it.
Thanks for sharing the idea!
Great and simple design. I can´t wait to make my own tomorrow. Now I believe in straight cuts. Thanks !
Thank you, and good luck with the project!
You could just use the Plexiglas or Lexan for the bottom and make your picture frame on top of that. The track does not need to support the weight of the saw, the material you are cutting should do that. You would then have a clear base to easily see your cut marks or line.
Definitely an option, but only if you have a good source for low-cost Lexan. A sheet that big might be pretty pricey, and could defeat the cost of a low-cost track saw. I hope this helps!
use a hole saw to make the sight holes, it's a cleaner cut and improves the accuracy of the alignment with the pencil mark. No need for plexiglass inserts then?
Love the idea, but hit a bit of a snag...when we went to make our first cut into the jig to complete it, it had changed from the previous day when we built it. It had shrunk and the saw couldn't be forced through. We got about halfway. We undid one side of screws, broke the glue up and now we're going to redo that side. A little wood putty for the crappy plywood we used, and maybe this time we can get it to work. :-/ The metal on the sole plate must have expanded just enough to bind up the saw. Not sure how to allow for that...suggestions welcomed!
Wish I had seen this before cutting my benchtops :D Would have made the cut a little better I think. I will definitely be making on for any future projects I may have to use the saw for. Great videos by the way.
Thank you, and good luck!
I love that you answer questions, and give an update! Thx will be making this soon, without the un needed plexi, new subscriber :)
Thanks for subscribing, and welcome to the channel!
Next upgrade is to make entire base from plexiglass so you can get rid of the holes altogether and have a much clearer view of the cutline.
Im making 1 tomorrow
Good luck with the project!
It great I just build in twenty minutes and save a heap of cash cheers friend you are a god send
*I'll be making one.*
Good luck with the build!
I like the Lexan addition! I'm wondering if adding a piece of the molding on the underneath side at one end, perpendicular like a T-square, would facilitate ease of use (like only needing to clamp one end, easily squaring the cut to that edge, etc.). Also, if splicing with half lap joints to make a 108" guide would help break down plywood, where a full-length rip cut is needed.
Great ideas! Thanks for sharing!
YEEEEAAAAH SPLICING WITH HALF LAP ON THE GUIDE RAILS AND THEN DOING THE SAME WITH THE BASE PLATE WOULD CREATE LIKE A FINGER JOINT EFFECT THAT WOULD BE SUPER STRONG GREAT IDEA!!
Interesting ideas. I was thinking of this for a full sheet cutter myself since I already have a kreg rip cut for smaller pieces.