Excellent !!! He had me when he said 'remove the caliper' - not the friggen' wheel. As he explained 'why', I'm jumping up-and-down crowing 'exactly'; 'what he said' !!! - After install w/a (rear, internal) Magura', I loosened the banjo to change hose's direction and blew it. Lever was near dead from loss of fluid. Tried another fill-and- bleed method - total fail (now lever was full dead). Looked at a lot of other stuff, even Park was telling me to dismantle half the bike for absolutely no reason, but here we are 13 years passed from this video and Jude's methodology works flawlessly - on my NEW MT 5's ??? Used an open syringe body. The only changes are 5's now have a threaded port that accepts threaded adapters that 'appear' restricted in seating depth due to the pressed-into-the-port Magura 'O' ring, but just barely tight is plenty to squash the inner 'O' ring - about 2 full turns into the alloy housing's threads. The other change is: don't bother removing the pads/ using transport blocks. Simply insert the yellow (pads-in) blocks that came w/ your brakes; use a cotton rag for any spills (not microfiber) and always wash the hell out the calipers/ rotors w/ 100% isopropyl when you are done regardless of how you do it. The last thing was (since I'd lost substantial fluid) I rotated the lever higher, bike about straight up, tapped on it and hoses - and yes it released some hidden air pockets that 3 purges had missed. Done in reverse, the caliper end near straight up, no bubbles. I dis a quick caliper alignment w/ a slide-in blade spacer, then 25mins of (Magura Prescribed) 0-20-dead stop 'pad break-in'. Results are impeccable. This is THE video to watch to get the sense of bleeding MT's. Nothing else really comes close.
Good vid, but for me, I had to do some things differently. For one, the 4 stroke method wasn't adequate. I needed like a 24 stroke method. 2nd, one handed pulling action on the syringe wasn't producing enough of a vacuum for me. After 2 failed attempts to do 4 stroke with the one handed pull action, I said eff it and ham fisted it. I Kept the caliper as low as possible and pulled with two hands. Then I squeezed and flicked the lever while pressing on the syringe to move it back to the lever syringe. Then i pulled again. I did this a sh*t ton of times before rotating the lever body on my handle bars do it was tilted down. I moved the fluid back and forth a couple times with the lever like this before bringing the lever back up and again moving the fluid back and forth. This finally worked for me. All that said, this video was probably the best one on youtube that I've watched for Magura MT's. Thanks Jude. Glad I found it. I have MT7's btw. And I like the bleed procedure for these. It's not as finicky as doing avids or formulas. Yea, I was annoyed after many failed attempts, but now that I got it, I understand it and am fine with it. The mini bleed kit that I bought, PN 0322143, was actually worth it. While I do have syringes, they wouldn't fit into the lever like the ones magura provides. THe stiff hose that goes between the syringe and the bleed port adaber is nice, as is the bleed port adapter.
Thank you very much for this video. In my case, I had to use the plastic shim with the brake pads in place. When I used the shim without the pads at first, the brake lever would bottom out and the calipers still wouldn't engage. I thought at first that it was because of bubbles (which there were), but after using the shim with the pads, the lever/caliper engagement is now perfect (sans bubbles).
I can't keep these brakes from getting spongy to save my life. The front is fine, but the rear just keeps getting air in it. I can get it firm. One finger to lock up the brakes after bleeding. I can ride it around the yard and it's fine. I'll let the bike sit for a week, still good. I go to ride on an actual trail and within 10mins, it starts to get spongy. After the 30min mark, the lever goes all the way to the grips and are barely doing anything. I've bled it over 10 times using every method I've research between YT, Pinkbike, etc. These are brand new MT8SL's and were very expensive. Makes me want to go back to mechanical brakes I've spent so much time on these. I'm at a lost at this point :-(
Bro did you figure it out. I’ve spent like 20 hours bleeding and I just can’t get them to be firm. I’ve watched countless videos and forums. I’m at a loss right now
ok - is the reason you do this bleeding process to get rid of entrapped air? if so: - where did the air come from? - shouldn't you address that issue first? - how about if you've experienced "loss of fluid" which would manifest itself as needing to adjust the brake handle screw? shouldn't you address this also?? thanks
very good vid even though i think you forgot to squeeze and let go of the brake lever. magura recommends that to ensure that the last bit of air leaves the system.. a helpful procedure i think since there was some air in it as i was bleeding my brakes
Just wondering. The "cleaning" you did on the caliper would most likely cause the pads to be contaminated in no time. Also, pushing the fluid out of the lever without anything around it not only causes a bigger mess than it has to be but also could cause oil to drop on your front brake...
Your logic is flawed, the front caliper is on the left and the lever is on the right. Unless the fluid can propel itself sideways there wont be no issue. Yes, he could have used alcohol or something to clean it better but they change the pads every race as it's a soft compound for hard braking and wears fast. I think you're being narcissistic
I have the MT8 brakes. The soft plastic ebt bleed screws with o-ring are a major fail. They are so soft you can dent the plastic with your finger nail. Good luck not rounding the corners even with a nice and clean t-25. Then, you get robbed about a 14 dollars for a replacemnt plastic screw, not worth 2 cents. I wish I had gone XTR...
I have had the same EBT screw for over a year now. Don't use a driver using just a long bit and tighten with your fingers, no way to strip it that way and It seats perfectly. Don't work like a gorilla and you won't have issues.
@@Meowth03 stand the bike up vertically in the corner of a room and wedge something behind back wheel to keep it in place. Leave pads in and caliper on bike, fit a brake pad alignment tool between pads and rotor. Load 20ml royal blood in a syringe with a small hole at 30ml. Perform a lever bleed as many times as it takes until no air comes out, do this real slow and squeeze the lever a couple times. Once this is done, remove syringe and top up the lever with a few drops before closing bleed screw. Remove alignment tool and wala!
Excellent !!! He had me when he said 'remove the caliper' - not the friggen' wheel.
As he explained 'why', I'm jumping up-and-down crowing 'exactly'; 'what he said' !!!
-
After install w/a (rear, internal) Magura', I loosened the banjo to change hose's direction and blew it. Lever was near dead from loss of fluid.
Tried another fill-and- bleed method - total fail (now lever was full dead).
Looked at a lot of other stuff, even Park was telling me to dismantle half the bike for absolutely no reason, but here we are 13 years passed from this video and Jude's methodology works flawlessly - on my NEW MT 5's ???
Used an open syringe body. The only changes are 5's now have a threaded port that accepts threaded adapters that 'appear' restricted in seating depth due to the pressed-into-the-port Magura 'O' ring, but just barely tight is plenty to squash the inner 'O' ring - about 2 full turns into the alloy housing's threads.
The other change is: don't bother removing the pads/ using transport blocks.
Simply insert the yellow (pads-in) blocks that came w/ your brakes; use a cotton rag for any spills (not microfiber) and always wash the hell out the calipers/ rotors w/ 100% isopropyl when you are done regardless of how you do it.
The last thing was (since I'd lost substantial fluid) I rotated the lever higher, bike about straight up, tapped on it and hoses - and yes it released some hidden air pockets that 3 purges had missed. Done in reverse, the caliper end near straight up, no bubbles.
I dis a quick caliper alignment w/ a slide-in blade spacer, then 25mins of (Magura Prescribed) 0-20-dead stop 'pad break-in'. Results are impeccable.
This is THE video to watch to get the sense of bleeding MT's. Nothing else really comes close.
Fantastic explanation my friend 😊👍❤️🇬🇧really enjoyed the video my friend
Good vid, but for me, I had to do some things differently. For one, the 4 stroke method wasn't adequate. I needed like a 24 stroke method. 2nd, one handed pulling action on the syringe wasn't producing enough of a vacuum for me. After 2 failed attempts to do 4 stroke with the one handed pull action, I said eff it and ham fisted it. I Kept the caliper as low as possible and pulled with two hands. Then I squeezed and flicked the lever while pressing on the syringe to move it back to the lever syringe. Then i pulled again. I did this a sh*t ton of times before rotating the lever body on my handle bars do it was tilted down. I moved the fluid back and forth a couple times with the lever like this before bringing the lever back up and again moving the fluid back and forth. This finally worked for me. All that said, this video was probably the best one on youtube that I've watched for Magura MT's. Thanks Jude. Glad I found it.
I have MT7's btw. And I like the bleed procedure for these. It's not as finicky as doing avids or formulas. Yea, I was annoyed after many failed attempts, but now that I got it, I understand it and am fine with it. The mini bleed kit that I bought, PN 0322143, was actually worth it. While I do have syringes, they wouldn't fit into the lever like the ones magura provides. THe stiff hose that goes between the syringe and the bleed port adaber is nice, as is the bleed port adapter.
Well i had to do 10 bleeding before figuring out that i should let the lever on the position of use and then it worked.
Awesome video thank you! Worked very well on my mt7s
Thanks for the video, the directions are alot harder to understand so this helped.
Thank you very much for this video. In my case, I had to use the plastic shim with the brake pads in place. When I used the shim without the pads at first, the brake lever would bottom out and the calipers still wouldn't engage. I thought at first that it was because of bubbles (which there were), but after using the shim with the pads, the lever/caliper engagement is now perfect (sans bubbles).
I can't keep these brakes from getting spongy to save my life. The front is fine, but the rear just keeps getting air in it. I can get it firm. One finger to lock up the brakes after bleeding. I can ride it around the yard and it's fine. I'll let the bike sit for a week, still good. I go to ride on an actual trail and within 10mins, it starts to get spongy. After the 30min mark, the lever goes all the way to the grips and are barely doing anything. I've bled it over 10 times using every method I've research between YT, Pinkbike, etc. These are brand new MT8SL's and were very expensive. Makes me want to go back to mechanical brakes I've spent so much time on these. I'm at a lost at this point :-(
Bro did you figure it out. I’ve spent like 20 hours bleeding and I just can’t get them to be firm. I’ve watched countless videos and forums. I’m at a loss right now
ok - is the reason you do this bleeding process to get rid of entrapped air? if so:
- where did the air come from?
- shouldn't you address that issue first?
- how about if you've experienced "loss of fluid" which would manifest itself as needing to adjust the brake handle screw?
shouldn't you address this also??
thanks
very good vid even though i think you forgot to squeeze and let go of the brake lever. magura recommends that to ensure that the last bit of air leaves the system.. a helpful procedure i think since there was some air in it as i was bleeding my brakes
Just wondering. The "cleaning" you did on the caliper would most likely cause the pads to be contaminated in no time. Also, pushing the fluid out of the lever without anything around it not only causes a bigger mess than it has to be but also could cause oil to drop on your front brake...
Your logic is flawed, the front caliper is on the left and the lever is on the right. Unless the fluid can propel itself sideways there wont be no issue. Yes, he could have used alcohol or something to clean it better but they change the pads every race as it's a soft compound for hard braking and wears fast. I think you're being narcissistic
Put a towel down to catch all the oil, then take the rag to a toxic disposal site, the mineral oil can cause your hands to turn soft
Good vid
He loves his T25
Great video really helpful 👍
i have the 2011 mt6 lever bushings then weak point lots of slop
2015 addressed this problem with the NEXT brakes ,
got mine used for $100 bucks
Thank you my friend
I have the MT8 brakes. The soft plastic ebt bleed screws with o-ring are a major fail. They are so soft you can dent the plastic with your finger nail. Good luck not rounding the corners even with a nice and clean t-25. Then, you get robbed about a 14 dollars for a replacemnt plastic screw, not worth 2 cents. I wish I had gone XTR...
agree %100 - super soft plastic and ultra annoying.
I have had the same EBT screw for over a year now. Don't use a driver using just a long bit and tighten with your fingers, no way to strip it that way and It seats perfectly. Don't work like a gorilla and you won't have issues.
Go shimano levers with the calipher
Actually, all Magura Brakes are bleeded like this (except the bleed port is possibly missing). As simple as that. :o)
I think I have the same watch you are wearing, Casio Dive Watch? Cool Instructional.
The real question here is where do I get that t handle?!
Thank you!
Very helpful, thanks!
Can i use this bleed process for my avid?
No.
In my Elixir 5 works, but in my Mt8 back not work, handle is verry soft and i need to pump once to have brake
yes
Anyone else having issues with the mt7 rear? Can't get that bite, no matter how many videos I watch 🤣
same dude on my new mt7 rear lol
@@Meowth03 I figured it out, perfect now 👌
@@MTB_FPV how bro? please i need you
@@Meowth03 stand the bike up vertically in the corner of a room and wedge something behind back wheel to keep it in place. Leave pads in and caliper on bike, fit a brake pad alignment tool between pads and rotor. Load 20ml royal blood in a syringe with a small hole at 30ml. Perform a lever bleed as many times as it takes until no air comes out, do this real slow and squeeze the lever a couple times. Once this is done, remove syringe and top up the lever with a few drops before closing bleed screw. Remove alignment tool and wala!
who keeps getting iphone messages?
Wow, look at the length of that stem. lol
Wish I had a pro engineer to bleed my Mt7's makes it look easy .. its not. In fact you cannot touch these brakes only change the pads.