How I tune in new filaments!
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2020
- Got a new filament and don't quite know where to start with getting it printing right? This one's for you!
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Wow. That was the best sponsor segue I’ve ever seen. Linus eat your heart out.
That was This Old Tony's level of visual humor 😁
Wtf it's segue and not segway?!??!!???
Raul Delgadillo lol yup. Segways are those two wheel scooters that mall cops ride.
Hahaha. Yes! That was dang good
Yes, that was a great segue! If I were on Linus Tech Tips I would feel cheated.
That Mosquito transition was legendary, really made me chuckle too. Oh yeah, the advice was fantastic too lol.
0:40 Now *that* is how you transition into a sponsor spot. Holy cow.
that earned my thumbs up
That was so great
And I love the progress bar that you embedded in the Add, really nice
Hi Tom, You commented on my twitter post about the strange patterns in my top layer and said I had backlash. It was also many other issues related to this video. My ender had a dip in the middle of the metal bed so when I removed my glass bed to use a flexi metal pei sheet it was dipping in the middle. I also had to work out the amount of filament extruded because it was a bit too much plus the fan on the ender was running very slow. So all these problems caused my rough top layer. I switched back to a glass bed, re-calibrated the extruder and the diameter of the filament fixed the slow spinning fan and I had much better results. Also adjusted the belts, replaced the nozzle and made sure it was straight.
Thanks Tom! Your videos are always super high quality and the information is so concise and easy to understand, well done!
To the average viewer I would strongly recommend using glue stick, hair spray or Dimafix spray (I love this product!) over higher bed temp to avoid PETG, ASA or ABS ruining/breaking the glass bed or the top coat of flex plates too easily. Even if you don't have adhesion or releasing issues, I would still recommend it as a protection for your bed surface. You also don't want hard to remove chunks of glass sticking to an otherwise perfect part (don't ask how I know!).
Flow through top layers - Hell Yes!
I've been doing this for over a year with great success. I use a square of 4x4cm, 2mm tall. No bottom layers, so it starts with infill at first to mitigate influence of potential bed squish. Prints very quickly and lets you evaluate the flow needed easily.
Honestly, this is the FIRST time in *decades* that a video had an "ad" for a product that was actually relevant to me.
Something that Google has *never* managed ever.
"@Thomas Sanladerer" 0:38 Best product reveal/intro sequence, EVER! queue the mosquito buzzing sound, camera down to where a slap goes, slap sound can be heard, buzzing stops, close up shot of the product... brilliant!
Bold of you to assume that my rolls are consistent, I don't pay that much
and that mosquito segue was amazing
Suryan Isaac well played. Love your profile pic
@@joshs2022 😉
I would love to see an update of this tutorial - I know the physics have not changed but slicers has improved a lot the last years. Suggestion: orca slicer and on an any non bambu, not prusa, non K1 printer. Thanks!
Hey Thomas, awesome video, great content as usual. Thanks for sharing.
@1:43 pro tip, preheat your oven first and then put the filament in. This will ensure that the temp isn't fluctuating and your filament won't be damaged
How long do you put it in the oven?
@@n7angle856 depends on the filament type(pla, tpu, pa....etc). I personally go with 4-6 hours but if you can keep it for 10-12 hours it'll be dryer and better once printed
@@3DThird ho thanks, and i was thinking here 10-30 min
Thanks for this video Tom. It takes me forever to get a filament dialed in so this was super helpful!
You do a great job with organizing the information! Thank you
Vielen lieben Dank! Been trying to work out an order of operations for new/wierd filaments I've been trying out.. thanks for the great checklist to work through 🙂👍
awesome video alot of info packed into a short simple video and the sponsor segue masterfully done.
I literally just came from a video where everyone was complaining about the ad segment, then straight onto this masterpiece lol!
Thank you for a great introduction to tuning filament!
Something I have found to work exceptionally well for bed adhesion is as follows: 1) heat the bed to 60c. 2) Mix one part PVA glue to one part IPA. 3) take a clean cloth and soak it with the mixture then lightly wipe down the heat-bed. This creates an extremely tough, thin layer of PVA that lasts many prints and is easily removable.
Great video and very good production quality, as always! Keep it up! New video idea: What to look for when buying used printers (yellow and red flags, as well as things to consider).
I’m it sure I will ever use my textured or smooth PEI sheets with my new Prusa Mini, I’ve fallen in love with the ease of use of the satin sheet!
I’m binging your content while I wait for my Prusa, it’s really good and I enjoy it a lot! Hopefully I won’t need this video in particular (with Prusa’s available presets), but I will watch anyway
Great advice, thank a lot for making this video!
The Mosquito thing? Best.Sponsor. Segue. Ever.
thank you. Very well thought out and clear information.
wooooww That's massively intimidating if you're like me on the edge to buy a 3D print. I expected few tries, but here I see millions of ways how it can go wrong. Thank you
one added thing I do recently is this.... I extrude 100mm or filament. if it curls then I increase temp by 5 degrees until I see a nice straight fairly thick bead of filament. I could go up another 5 degrees from there but that makes a good starting point. I have been have a ton of under extrusion with my REVO hotend until I started printing 10-15 degrees hotter that normal for said filament.
Another thing I found to help with stringing is faster non print moves. (130mms for me)
Has anyone else noticed that the cheap filament (E-Bay) has all gone bad because of COVID 19?
Great video. Keep up the good work.
@Tom I get beautiful ABS prints in an enclosed chamber (heated just by the bed at 110C) but only with fan on 50-100%. So one more exception to the rule
Thanks Thomas, great info 👍
Do you plan to compare the The Mosquito™ Hotend to some of the chinese "copies" like the Dragon at some point? I would love to see that.
@@soundspark that doesn't stop him buying his own and doing his own review video.
Why should he, buy original, without the work of the original manufacturer, the copier could not sell.
I was hoping you were going to suggest printing temperature towers to help determine the best temp, as well as demonstrating how to dial in the extrusion multiplier (or Flow Rate, which seems challenging for most)
the progress bar for the sponsor.. incredible production value.. lol
Must see video. Have to recommend this!
Thank you 👍😎, all information very welcome.
Mosquito slap! I laughed way too hard at that! Good stuff Tom!
@LinusTechTips can definetely learn from this sponsor segway
I can't confirm "no fan" for ABS. I run my fan at medium setting and get much nicer results and don't have any layer adhesion problems. If I turn off the fan, there would be a lot of curling or sagging, and no I'm not prinitng too hot. I used the lowest temperature that was possible with that particular ABS filament (228°C)
radry100 not all abs is created equal, these are just guidelines.
How I do it:
1 - Run it through Marlin linear advance test print to know K.
2 - Print 20x20x20 cube to know flow % and temp.
3 - Try to pull cube apart; if it splits, temp is too low because layers aren't fused enough so raise temp.
4 - Print flow rate, temp and K on a table so next time I use the same filament I don't have to repeat this.
5 - Enjoy printing with that filament.
Been doing this for a long time and always get great results. Using mostly Sunlu and Tianse brands.
Great info! Thank you so much!
What is this "ETC" - filament. Must be something special...
Ethyl tetrachloride? 😋
Et Cetera (ETC) means and others
Now this is the kind of info I’m looking for. Too many 3D print channels are just; “Hey, let’s print this toy! Wow, cool, huh?”
Thanks for validating my current process ;) The best advise that I can give is to: sit next to your printer and watch it print for hours on end to see what happens and change according to what you see. Visual feedback is the most important part of print tuning! You can also stand next to your printer for hours and train your glute, back and neck muscles.
what a cocky answer... 🤦
This is the kind of information-dense topic that could greatly benefit from a separate guide PDF or wiki, or even just sharing the script. There are lots of filament tuning guides out there, but I really prefer Tom's approach and organization.
Let me welcome you to my own dark corner of the filament world:
I like to use super-inexpensive (
Tom,
Your videos have been invaluable for the last few years I've been 3d printing.
A friend of mine recently got an SLA printer, which I'm not familiar with the technology as I am with FDM. I'd like to help him start off on the right foot...in addition to your channel, can you recommend any makers who specialize in SLA printing?
Very helpful! Thanks!
Loved the add
Great video!!
Amazing video as usally. Sehr geil. Danke :)
exactly the Video I needed :)
Hey Tom great video, have you ever heard anyone talk about the differences in using an electric versus natural gas stove to dry filament? I’m wondering because obviously burning a fuel does generate some moisture in the process.
When you're dual extruder printing with a single nozzle that adds another variable to the mix. You need to make sure your extruding enough material to prime the nozzle, but different materials and colours have different priming requirements. For example, I can get away with only a little bit of priming for a support material like PolySupport for most prints, while PLA might need four times as much priming to avoid the support material showing through. Darker (or similar) colours usually prime quicker than lighter (or different) colours as well.
But you also need to take into account the different temperature requirements for different materials. Depending on the printer, the temperature may fluctuate wildly while it's switching material, so programming in a hold after a material switch may be beneficial.
Would have loved to see a reference to what Teaching Tech did for printer calibration. Even better would be a collaboration with you, Makers Muse and Teaching tech you guys are fantastic teachers.
I always thought curling was excess bed temperature but I recently found that to be the opposite & increasing the bed temperature helped reduce curling. For PLA at least. I don’t know how other filaments would behave
Hey Thomas, have you looked into 3DOptimizer or happen to know any other software/service based attempt at tuning in g-code settings in a more 'scientific' approach?
Before tuning in flow rate and retract I like to tune E-steps and linear advance set the values in the filament specific start G-CODE in prusa slicer. Those value can vary greatly between different types of plastic.
I would probably go in this order: E-steps, flow rate, linear advance, then retract.
Thanks for this. I just got my Prusa Mini this week, so this landed at the perfect time for me. Do you always bake PLA in the oven just in case? Do you do that at 50c as well and for how long? I've had some popping and stringing with my Amazon Basic PLA between 185-230c... which sucks lol
I'd be interested in a part 2 with more in-depth settings.
Thomas, can I share a tip to make things better than glue stick? Take a spray bottle, fill it with IPA and add 10% by volume of white glue. Agitate to mix and spray onto the bed. You can use this method to apply a very thin and uniform layer of glue to a bed--which will make your bed side of the print look much better.
On my K1max i was surprised that the fan was set to 70% for abs. Printed great, when tinkering with the profile, i put my fan speed down and then off. Drove myself crazy for a bit trying to adjust other values as this began a nightmare of trying to compensate. I print so rather large prints and nothing i would do would fix either very poor layer adhesion and cooling separation. I finally reliqued back to the defaults with 70% and boom. all works well again with stunning parts in abs. I guess with a enclosed case, the cooling fan is needed at least one the k1.
Great video, this is exactly what I've been in need of. Quick question; do you keep your filaments stored in dry locations even if you dehydrate before use? I've been contemplating making a dry enclosure for filament storage.
Depends on what type of filament and how well you can condition your space. I'm totally ok with leaving a spool of PLA out in my dehumidified basement, but I wouldn't leave PETG out in Florida humidity.
Bed adhesion - with printing PLA on the spring steel PEI covered sheet for my Prusa i3 Mk3 I can't praise those 'magic sponges' (melamine foam) enough, they clean the surface so well that PLA always sticks, but TPU & sometimes PETG sticks too well because there's a couple of chunks ripped out of the PEI from TPU prints sticking like superglue so for those filaments I use a Kores gluestick.
Yes melamine foam is abrasive, but it's one of the least abrasive 'scrubbers' you can use, I'm not worried about it wearing out the PEI sheet at all, it removes the grease of fingerprints extremely well.
I really like when these big 3d printer channels explain some of these things like “i like to choose the temp that makes strong parts” lol you dont say
You out Linus'd Linus with that product segue lol.
Thanks for another great Video.
Could you maybe link to the testprints you showed? I have most cases covered by now, but theres always room for improvement. And it would be of great help for Beginners There are so many to choose frommand not all wirk really in the way they were intended
Thanks for sharing, Did you try flexible resins or mixed with normal ones?
No fan control on noob friendly printers like the Flashforge Finder. Learned that today.
I was surprised that you don't use a single or double wall hollow cube to calibrate your extrusion multiplier.
I would love to see a video on bridging calibration.
I don't understand why stringing and blobs would be two opposite phenomenon. Blobs usually comes, similar like stringing from too little or slow retraction, due to too high pressure in extrusion zone of the nozzle, causing liquid thermoplaste flowing out during (stringing) or after (blob) travel movements. Stringing is also more a function of cooling and temperature, while blobs are primarily caused by too slow / little retraction .
Too high / fast extrusion often shows in underextruding / missing the first ~1 millimeter of each layer (=> "seamcrack") - in addition to the by you mentioned scratching of the nozzle into the lässt layer.
Too slow or too much retraction will cause the nozzle to stay in the same spot for longer while it retracts, which may overheat the area under the nozzle and sometimes create a blob.
Fantastic mosquito transition 😃
Glue works. Amen
Thanks 🎉
Nearly the same process for me. New spools always gain a free drying session prior to any use.
Amazing
Nice video. Thank you. Where can I find your test printing models?
Can you make a video on how to improve tolerances?
In prusaslicer profile for PLA, they recommend to not use the fan for the 4 first layer. You said 2 first layer. What is the best. Great video.
I am using black PLA and layers separate. I increased extruder temp from 200 to 210 and still have layer separation. I might reduce outside layer speed or dispose this old spool. Thanks!
Hi Tom, I was surprised to see the patented Mosquito hotends ad spot, considering your stance on IP licensing, and open source in 3D printing (like issue with MPCNC). Curious to hear your take on this, and whether you support Slice patenting them. Personally I am supportive of patents, but I think they should have much shorter durations, but also be easier to apply for.
Hey just had to comment on your great last name :-)
Dan Roesch Haha, nice to meet you fellow Roesch! I’ve honestly never met anyone with the same last name, and then what do you know, I meet one who is also into 3D printers?
@@samroesch Yes I'm also very active with the MPCNC community. I appreciate both Tom and Ryan and hope for good things for both of them.
That transition
can you do a video on linear advance on reprap :)
Hello Thomas, do e.g. PLA sheets exist to put on the bed and print upon? this instead of putting a big first layer and print the rest on top of it? If the sheet is transparent, it could be used to adhere it on a carrier and not having to print the 1st layer during an hour.
very cool
regarding bed adhesion: I'm using cheap brush cleaner and it sticks perfectly when hot. (on creality cr10 v2 with original bed). Maybe you can try too?
any comment on the changes to the personal license to fusion360 from autodesk?
i had the qidi x maxx.... i lov it never a failed print.... just amazing.... i only had the prusa mini.. which ehhhhh hate it.... hows the mk3?
how do you feel about temperature towers for testing what temp to print a filament? I'm EXTREMELY new to the hobby and i've been looking at some tests people print on new printers and stumbled across these.
How does too much retraction contribute to blobs on line starts? I'm having that issue on my ender 5 pro, trying to get a decent benchy, but end up with blobs all over. Definitely where layers start/stop, but also in random places as well.
hi thomas... while i had bunch of low end printers.. creality ..longer.. other and other brands......what would u recomend. the newest prusa or qidi x maxx??? plze let me know... ty
Question…When I calibrate my Ender3 Pro, do I have to put the new esteps in Prusa? If so, where do I find it? I know you change on the endear screen, but when I shut it off and turn it back on the number changes back to default so I am thinking I have to put it in Prusa somewhere …many thanks for any suggestions! :)
Thom, where can I find a spool of ETC? Is it too expensive?
I leave my PLA spools mounted on the printer. Interestingly, after not printing anything for a months I need to raise the temperature by 5C to get the same quality as previously when I was doing a lot of printing. I think it may be due to moisture absorbed by the outer layers of the spool since the last use and after expending those layers I can lower the temperature by 5C.
I usually find PLA has spontaneously snapped in multiple locations if left loaded in the machine for too long.
Can you use a toaster over to dry out filament? I have a toaster oven for sublimation, so I could use it to dry out filament technically too? Is it safe in your oven to cook after drying out your filament?
Thanks, Watch a lot of your vids!
I'm new to 3D printing and bought the CR-6 SE (Yes I know you in another Vid said to pass, but I got it, no turning back.
I bought some PTEG for the added "heat" and other added strengths of this filament.
BUT. I've since seen and read some horror stories of using PTEG. From delaminating/shirring off glass, and temps too high for a lot of printer nozzles.
Any insight that can ally my fears of using this filament?
I saw what you did there with the travel speed at 9:40
I think you could have added a bit more detail and i even found it quite strange that you did'nt mention any Temp Towers or Retraction Test, which are still the best way to tune in the Fillament, especially the all in one Temp Tower with the Overhang, Bridging and Retraction Test is pretty nice, to at least find the sweet spot over the Temperature, but i'm still not quite sure if that is even the right way for that solution. But it's the fastest way i could find, to test Filament Samples.
Also.. You calibrate the flow rate through eye? I'm not really sure if the print are accurate with that methode and still prefere the old way to dial it in with a dual walled cube at 100% flow and measure the sizes afterwards to get my flowrate for that filament, and it's also the easiest and most accurate solution to tune that it.
Anyway.. I hope you make another Video about that Topic.
Danke!
Thank you very much!
I'm new to my i3 Mk3 - Recently purchased several task specific filaments from Vision Miners - None of these have filament profiles in Prusa Slicer - any suggestions on how to build profiles?
HT-Nylon
CF-Nylon
FLEX-TPU
PTCG