Jeff, well done, good sound,good video, very ood explaination. Rebuilding my 4th Porsche 987/981. all is well except for PDK on 2010 CS. I rebuilt engine and replaced front input shaft sealon PDK, did refill process and have no trans function. Would you help me with codes. Glad to pay you for your services. Randy in Illinois, USA
What the heck is the HSS3 actuator power supply? I saw it when you looked at the PIWIS. My 911 currently has distance sensor 3 showing no reading and then HSS3 actuator getting g low voltage (only 2V) while the others are showing 12V (1,2,&4) I also have a pressure sensor labeled 3 getting no pressure reading either.
Can you contact me at the channel email address: jjrichar12@gmail.com I've looked at your R'list thread, but didn't reply as the mods there have a habit of deleting my posts. I've decided not to engage there for this reason. The problem you have might need a bit of correspondence back and forth to get to the bottom of it, so it's probably easiest to do it via email.
Hello sir How are you Very helpful information thanks I have caymen 2014 i replaced it with new sensor from T-Design The problem during the calibration of the sensor distance it will stop once reaching 95% And have. cancellation condition: synchronise position controing to neutral not possible Can you help me what does that mean and what is your thoughts about it I'll appreciate it
@@justme3461 I get a few people complaining of this issue from T design sensors. Like I said, the output from the sensor is poor in the central region and as a result it won't calibrate. I'm not trying to do a hard sell, but this is one of the things we worked hard at when designing our new sensor. We deliberately made a sensor specific for the 911 and another for the Boxster/Cayman so we could achieve the best responses and eliminate problems like this. How many calibration attempts did you try. If it's right on the edge of the limits of passing/failing, then attempting a few more can't hurt. But if you have attempted a few calibrations and it fails each time, then any more is a waste of time.
Hi fellow friend, I have replaced hundreds if not thousands of this sensor and my experience were immaculate each time. Calibration is not hard to do at all for both options ~ Calibration without previous part replacement (distance sensor/clutch) ~ Calibration after part replacement (flash/pressure sensor/distance sensor/hydraulic/clutch) Only difference between these are the 2nd option will additionally flash the TCM, recalibrate the pressure sensor and the hydraulic unit(aka valvebody) Some good tip to everyone who wishes to replace T-Designs sensor should make sure of: 1) ONLY USE PIWIS 2 OR PIWIS 3 2) Transmission Fluid up to temperature, I often calibrate when the temp is > 65 degree celcius constantly and not fluctuating 3) Engine Oil up to temperature, often more than 80 degree celsius. 4) AC MUST BE OFF 5) Engage footbrake with slightly more pressure when told to do so (don't let off until calibration ends) 6) Once calibration is done and successful, it is best to drive it right after for a minimum of 50 to 100 shifts. Often times many people fail calibration is due to not following precondition instructed by PIWIS2/3 Reason of failure could be 1) Incorrect installation or poor fitting of the gearbox back end housing 2) On the 987, if you have aftermarket radio and did not code the original radio out of the car, it will not pass calibration. (done this by experience.)
Thank you for taking your time to do this, very informative.
Excellent work Jeff !
Jeff, well done, good sound,good video, very ood explaination. Rebuilding my 4th Porsche 987/981. all is well except for PDK on 2010 CS. I rebuilt engine and replaced front input shaft sealon PDK, did refill process and have no trans function. Would you help me with codes. Glad to pay you for your services. Randy in Illinois, USA
Hello Randy, will help if I can. Can you email me on the channel address: jjrichar12@gmail.com Thanks
What the heck is the HSS3 actuator power supply?
I saw it when you looked at the PIWIS.
My 911 currently has distance sensor 3 showing no reading and then HSS3 actuator getting g low voltage (only 2V) while the others are showing 12V (1,2,&4)
I also have a pressure sensor labeled 3 getting no pressure reading either.
Can you contact me at the channel email address: jjrichar12@gmail.com
I've looked at your R'list thread, but didn't reply as the mods there have a habit of deleting my posts. I've decided not to engage there for this reason. The problem you have might need a bit of correspondence back and forth to get to the bottom of it, so it's probably easiest to do it via email.
Jeff can you please make a video on how to replace PADM Engine mounts on these 981 porsches? thank you!
I made one to replace the trans mounts. Link below. Same thing but just plug in the mount.
ua-cam.com/video/2KfPBVgWJvc/v-deo.htmlsi=g47LQSETIjuWdRXf
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Thank you sir!
Hello sir
How are you
Very helpful information thanks
I have caymen 2014 i replaced it with new sensor from T-Design
The problem during the calibration of the sensor distance it will stop once reaching 95%
And have. cancellation condition: synchronise position controing to neutral not possible
Can you help me what does that mean and what is your thoughts about it
I'll appreciate it
This means the sensor is giving a poor response in the central region where the synchromesh is being engaged. The sensor needs replacing.
Hello, thanks for your time
The T-Design sent me another distance sensor and is still the same problem
Once reaching 95% it will cancelled
.
@@justme3461 I get a few people complaining of this issue from T design sensors. Like I said, the output from the sensor is poor in the central region and as a result it won't calibrate. I'm not trying to do a hard sell, but this is one of the things we worked hard at when designing our new sensor. We deliberately made a sensor specific for the 911 and another for the Boxster/Cayman so we could achieve the best responses and eliminate problems like this.
How many calibration attempts did you try. If it's right on the edge of the limits of passing/failing, then attempting a few more can't hurt. But if you have attempted a few calibrations and it fails each time, then any more is a waste of time.
Hi fellow friend, I have replaced hundreds if not thousands of this sensor and my experience were immaculate each time.
Calibration is not hard to do at all for both options
~ Calibration without previous part replacement (distance sensor/clutch)
~ Calibration after part replacement (flash/pressure sensor/distance sensor/hydraulic/clutch)
Only difference between these are the 2nd option will additionally flash the TCM, recalibrate the pressure sensor and the hydraulic unit(aka valvebody)
Some good tip to everyone who wishes to replace T-Designs sensor should make sure of:
1) ONLY USE PIWIS 2 OR PIWIS 3
2) Transmission Fluid up to temperature, I often calibrate when the temp is > 65 degree celcius constantly and not fluctuating
3) Engine Oil up to temperature, often more than 80 degree celsius.
4) AC MUST BE OFF
5) Engage footbrake with slightly more pressure when told to do so (don't let off until calibration ends)
6) Once calibration is done and successful, it is best to drive it right after for a minimum of 50 to 100 shifts.
Often times many people fail calibration is due to not following precondition instructed by PIWIS2/3
Reason of failure could be
1) Incorrect installation or poor fitting of the gearbox back end housing
2) On the 987, if you have aftermarket radio and did not code the original radio out of the car, it will not pass calibration. (done this by experience.)