Your best video yet. You’ve detailed many of the steps that you glossed over in the past. That’s not a criticism. You probably thought that your viewers would be bored if you covered details with which they are already familiar but repetition is the primary basis of learning for most of us. Thanks for sharing your experience an enthusiasm.
Proof that yet again I have no idea what my viewers like. I thought this video would be a dud, just something I could reference when folks have questions. It shot like to the top of most-watched new videos quickly 2nd only to the violin top carving video. I will keep this in mind as I make new videos, you folks sure do like the instructional stuff.
@@TwoCherriesIns I second what he said...I watched this video glued to the screen, watched every little detail of what you were doing - just like all your videos. I love them and as someone who is slowly entering the CNC phase of my building I'm always looking for techniques and more importantly, advice, that will keep me from wasting material. Keep'em coming!
An edgefinder is vastly superior to locate and align your fixtures and workpieces. Your statement about support is more important than most people imagine. Rigidity of the setup, rigidity of the work holding of your setup, and what most, especially in a wood shop, often don't consider, the rigidity of the tooling (or, for that matter, the rigidity, or lack thereof, inherent in the machine design and construction).
Edge finders are not necessarily better, they can be inaccurate if you don't know how to use one. The reason they are commonly used in machining is that they are faster, that is if you have an ATC. The method I use is constantly within .001" or 10 times my margin of error in wood. I have a probe that I could do this work with but the time it would take to change back and forth between tools for no benefit in accuracy doesn't make sense for my application.
Interesting approach, thank you. Your method requires to have perfectly squared stock though which is very time consuming. And you're re-indexing your mill after flipping over the stock. One suggestion for an easier (less time consuming) approach: 1. I'm usually only flattening the surfaces and thickening the stock, leaving the edges untouched 2. I then use the heel point of the centerline for indexing the stock 3. first cutting operation is to bore 4 holes at the extreme points of the stock that are symmetric to the centerline and go through the stock into the waste board 4. when flipping over the stock I use those 4 holes to position the stock by using wooden index pins. That way I don't have to re-index the machine and can use the same X/Y coordinates for all operations. I then only have to zero the z-Axis when changing the tool. This method requires to have a stock that's a little bit larger than yours (I'd say +2inches longer/+1 inch wider relative to the model) but it's very precise and fast and it excuses some initial positioning errors. It also happened to me that I had a stock with slightly diagonal grain. I then positioned the stock diagonally which straightens the grain in the model. In that case, you will need an even larger stock. But it works like a charm!
I have used that method in the past. There are a couple of issues I have with it. While it is a little time-consuming t surface and join the material, the finished product comes out much cleaner, and any flat surface that is flush with the stock surfaces it ready to go. The second being that the amount of surface area you have on indexing pins in your spoil board is very small, so any wear or inaccuracy in the pin, pin mounting, or boars in the part for these indexing pins is amplified. I do realize I'm literally splitting hairs here, but you cant get accurate parts without taking into account the small stuff, in this case, the very small stuff. I rarely ever cut more than one of a part, if I was planing a production run I would do things differently, That is not what I am doing here. I'm trying to leave my CNC bed open and available for varied and different milling objectives and at the same time make them very accurate. If the pins are working for you then that's awesome, it's just not ideal for my setup.
Thanks for the awesome video and the peek into your amazing techniques. I have a 16"long x 18"wide DYI CNC machine and want to modify/rebuild it to cut bass guitar necks. What would you recommend for a max length of machine bed? Thanks again from NB Canada
Really a nice video and some great ideas. I built my first acoustic guitar with the help of a very talented guitar building friend. Midway through the build (body complete, starting on neck) we decided to design and build a 1500mmx1500mm CNC machine and electronics. CNC is built and has many projects under it's belt so now I''m ready to tackle the neck. Your video came at a perfect time. Thank You! I have a couple of observations and questions. Forgive me if you covered some of these in past videos - I will review all you videos. 1. I notice you have a light at the end of your spindle - I like it. Where did you get it? 2. I notice you stock width is sized prior to starting the milling and that you flipped to make sure you reference the same size. What if you sized the stock width as part of the milling and then you would not have to end-flip stock to reference the same edge. Just a thought...
1- The spindle Light is just an ordinary car headlight "helio light". I picked it up on eBay for under $12. I power it with the same supply as the LED lighting under my gantry. 2- The surface finish from my drum sander is just better than the surface finish from the machine. on all my parts I thickness them so that any flat surface on the top or bottom of the part is thicknesed on the drum sander. You can certainly use the machine to surface stock, and for lager pieces, I do this, but its quickly and easily done with the drum sander. My method of work holding (CA glue and masking tape) requires very flat surfaces to work well and the drum sander is my go-to device for this job.
Can you please tell me about the Large Ball Mill You are Using, I have Looked Everywhere and can't find that cutter. Would you be so kind to tell me where you bought that cutter, Love your work, I designed and built me own CNC machine, Just to see if I could, Then had to learn how to use it, I have made many guitars, and made my first Neck today, But still learning this art,
Thanks so much for your videos. I'm struggling with a single step you've outlined. When you flip your part it looks like you zero off the same corner (makes sense). Practically speaking however how do you accomplish this in fusion? Im assuming you move your origin point to match, but whenever i try this I end up with an inverted z axis. Any suggestions?
What model CNC router is that? Don’t think I’ve seen that one before. Your instructional style is very pleasant to watch. I’d love to see fusion video of designing a guitar body from start to finish. New fan!
@@EngravenArts I have been working on some applications using the Fusion360 API to use the CNC to probe and grind frets to a very precise dimension, similar to how PLEK machines work. I plan to set up this machine as a dedicated fretwork. ua-cam.com/video/LsROycwUkjE/v-deo.html
@@TwoCherriesIns pragmatism over theory. That's the way to go. I was asking in broader way; what type of bits you use for pockets, cuts or finishings passes. Single flute, straight, spiral, up, down cut, etc?
@@matiasgoinheix366 For most of the milling, I use three bits, a 1/2" x 3" straight two-flute, 1/4" x 1" spiral two flute, and a 3/4" ball nose. You should be able to get something like these three at your local big box hardware store. I will replace the 1/2" x 3" with a 1/2" x 2" at some point. I got a great deal on youtube for a lot of 10 of them.
Nicely done! 2 month to late - i figured the most mistakes on my own ;) by try & error. Supporting the headstock ist really a good point - although i tried only angled headstocks so far - which is perfect for beginners - NOT ;).
Learning from your own mistakes an incredibly valuable lesson, How do you create support material for scarf joint headstocks, I'm sure you have seen my method her on the channel.
@@TwoCherriesIns indeed, it is. I left the headstock... as a paddle and routed it manually with a trimmer & templates. Maybe i will try your approach the next time.
The ball nose is a .75" and it's just from my local big box store, the long .5" bit is just a normal straight flute 2" x .5" from eBay. I don't use very many specialty bits just of the shelf stuff that is inexpensive and easy to get.
I will have a great european mills for guitar use. I gues in the february 2023. They will be made in europe from HSS (Carbide likes to break). I have some 14mm with 12mm schaft (half inch) and they are very fast (2 x faster than standard two flute bit).
Your best video yet. You’ve detailed many of the steps that you glossed over in the past. That’s not a criticism. You probably thought that your viewers would be bored if you covered details with which they are already familiar but repetition is the primary basis of learning for most of us. Thanks for sharing your experience an enthusiasm.
Proof that yet again I have no idea what my viewers like. I thought this video would be a dud, just something I could reference when folks have questions. It shot like to the top of most-watched new videos quickly 2nd only to the violin top carving video. I will keep this in mind as I make new videos, you folks sure do like the instructional stuff.
@@TwoCherriesIns I second what he said...I watched this video glued to the screen, watched every little detail of what you were doing - just like all your videos. I love them and as someone who is slowly entering the CNC phase of my building I'm always looking for techniques and more importantly, advice, that will keep me from wasting material. Keep'em coming!
@@janefoxguitars6061 I will, Thank you!
An edgefinder is vastly superior to locate and align your fixtures and workpieces.
Your statement about support is more important than most people imagine. Rigidity of the setup, rigidity of the work holding of your setup, and what most, especially in a wood shop, often don't consider, the rigidity of the tooling (or, for that matter, the rigidity, or lack thereof, inherent in the machine design and construction).
Edge finders are not necessarily better, they can be inaccurate if you don't know how to use one. The reason they are commonly used in machining is that they are faster, that is if you have an ATC. The method I use is constantly within .001" or 10 times my margin of error in wood. I have a probe that I could do this work with but the time it would take to change back and forth between tools for no benefit in accuracy doesn't make sense for my application.
Interesting approach, thank you. Your method requires to have perfectly squared stock though which is very time consuming. And you're re-indexing your mill after flipping over the stock. One suggestion for an easier (less time consuming) approach:
1. I'm usually only flattening the surfaces and thickening the stock, leaving the edges untouched
2. I then use the heel point of the centerline for indexing the stock
3. first cutting operation is to bore 4 holes at the extreme points of the stock that are symmetric to the centerline and go through the stock into the waste board
4. when flipping over the stock I use those 4 holes to position the stock by using wooden index pins. That way I don't have to re-index the machine and can use the same X/Y coordinates for all operations. I then only have to zero the z-Axis when changing the tool.
This method requires to have a stock that's a little bit larger than yours (I'd say +2inches longer/+1 inch wider relative to the model) but it's very precise and fast and it excuses some initial positioning errors. It also happened to me that I had a stock with slightly diagonal grain. I then positioned the stock diagonally which straightens the grain in the model. In that case, you will need an even larger stock. But it works like a charm!
I have used that method in the past. There are a couple of issues I have with it. While it is a little time-consuming t surface and join the material, the finished product comes out much cleaner, and any flat surface that is flush with the stock surfaces it ready to go. The second being that the amount of surface area you have on indexing pins in your spoil board is very small, so any wear or inaccuracy in the pin, pin mounting, or boars in the part for these indexing pins is amplified. I do realize I'm literally splitting hairs here, but you cant get accurate parts without taking into account the small stuff, in this case, the very small stuff.
I rarely ever cut more than one of a part, if I was planing a production run I would do things differently, That is not what I am doing here. I'm trying to leave my CNC bed open and available for varied and different milling objectives and at the same time make them very accurate. If the pins are working for you then that's awesome, it's just not ideal for my setup.
I use two pins in center line with a help of doublestick tape.
Thanks for the awesome video and the peek into your amazing techniques. I have a 16"long x 18"wide DYI CNC machine and want to modify/rebuild it to cut bass guitar necks. What would you recommend for a max length of machine bed? Thanks again from NB Canada
Sounds good, I don't think I've ever been asked about maximum sizes. If it cuts accurately the extra size should not be an issue.
I like your narrative style. Reminds me of Keith Williams’ 5 Watt World.
Thanks, I like that channel.
Except you get to see the thing he's talking about in action, instead of just talking about it.
Really a nice video and some great ideas. I built my first acoustic guitar with the help of a very talented guitar building friend. Midway through the build (body complete, starting on neck) we decided to design and build a 1500mmx1500mm CNC machine and electronics. CNC is built and has many projects under it's belt so now I''m ready to tackle the neck. Your video came at a perfect time. Thank You! I have a couple of observations and questions. Forgive me if you covered some of these in past videos - I will review all you videos.
1. I notice you have a light at the end of your spindle - I like it. Where did you get it?
2. I notice you stock width is sized prior to starting the milling and that you flipped to make sure you reference the same size. What if you sized the stock width as part of the milling and then you would not have to end-flip stock to reference the same edge. Just a thought...
1- The spindle Light is just an ordinary car headlight "helio light". I picked it up on eBay for under $12. I power it with the same supply as the LED lighting under my gantry.
2- The surface finish from my drum sander is just better than the surface finish from the machine. on all my parts I thickness them so that any flat surface on the top or bottom of the part is thicknesed on the drum sander. You can certainly use the machine to surface stock, and for lager pieces, I do this, but its quickly and easily done with the drum sander. My method of work holding (CA glue and masking tape) requires very flat surfaces to work well and the drum sander is my go-to device for this job.
Can you please tell me about the Large Ball Mill You are Using, I have Looked Everywhere and can't find that cutter. Would you be so kind to tell me where you bought that cutter, Love your work, I designed and built me own CNC machine, Just to see if I could, Then had to learn how to use it, I have made many guitars, and made my first Neck today, But still learning this art,
I get that question all the time, and the answer is probably going to be a let down, it's a 3/4" ball mill from my local big box store HDepo.
www.amazon.com/Freud-Radius-Round-Shank-18-134/dp/B00004T7DP/ref=asc_df_B00004T7DP/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309735728871&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6132416620262233020&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026991&hvtargid=pla-434245500190&psc=1
Thanks so much for your videos. I'm struggling with a single step you've outlined. When you flip your part it looks like you zero off the same corner (makes sense). Practically speaking however how do you accomplish this in fusion? Im assuming you move your origin point to match, but whenever i try this I end up with an inverted z axis. Any suggestions?
Just flip the z, It's easy in fusion, just click the z arrow.
Tendras las medias que pudieras proporcionar gracias
What 3D and G-code software did you use for the neck?
I use Fusion 360
What model CNC router is that? Don’t think I’ve seen that one before. Your instructional style is very pleasant to watch.
I’d love to see fusion video of designing a guitar body from start to finish. New fan!
Thanks,
This is the CNC Router Parts CRP2448 standard machine. I will be upgrading soon.
@@TwoCherriesIns are you selling yours?
@@EngravenArts I have been working on some applications using the Fusion360 API to use the CNC to probe and grind frets to a very precise dimension, similar to how PLEK machines work. I plan to set up this machine as a dedicated fretwork.
ua-cam.com/video/LsROycwUkjE/v-deo.html
Man, these videos are amazing. Would you mind sharing details on the bits you're using?
Nothing special just regular woodworking router bits. I don't use very many specialty bits, I get a lot of flack for it but it works.
@@TwoCherriesIns pragmatism over theory. That's the way to go. I was asking in broader way; what type of bits you use for pockets, cuts or finishings passes. Single flute, straight, spiral, up, down cut, etc?
@@matiasgoinheix366 For most of the milling, I use three bits, a 1/2" x 3" straight two-flute, 1/4" x 1" spiral two flute, and a 3/4" ball nose. You should be able to get something like these three at your local big box hardware store. I will replace the 1/2" x 3" with a 1/2" x 2" at some point. I got a great deal on youtube for a lot of 10 of them.
@@TwoCherriesIns Thanks for the info!
Nicely done! 2 month to late - i figured the most mistakes on my own ;) by try & error. Supporting the headstock ist really a good point - although i tried only angled headstocks so far - which is perfect for beginners - NOT ;).
Learning from your own mistakes an incredibly valuable lesson, How do you create support material for scarf joint headstocks, I'm sure you have seen my method her on the channel.
@@TwoCherriesIns indeed, it is. I left the headstock... as a paddle and routed it manually with a trimmer & templates. Maybe i will try your approach the next time.
Thanks for this video! I have a question... Where do you find those big bits? The round one and the long one? :)
The ball nose is a .75" and it's just from my local big box store, the long .5" bit is just a normal straight flute 2" x .5" from eBay. I don't use very many specialty bits just of the shelf stuff that is inexpensive and easy to get.
@@TwoCherriesIns Thanks! I'm like you, I do not use special bits as we are not milling metal!
@@dantahoua Recently I was accosted in comments for my bit choices, I say use what works for you.
I will have a great european mills for guitar use. I gues in the february 2023. They will be made in europe from HSS (Carbide likes to break). I have some 14mm with 12mm schaft (half inch) and they are very fast (2 x faster than standard two flute bit).
I am sri lankan good jobe
Thank you