got my maxjax m7k installed 2 months ago, everything went easy, didn't hit the rebar, i returned the $36 rebar drill bit unused to amazon. I mounted the pump to the cart, removed the wheels and hung the cart on the wall. 1x 10' hose extension and a 3/8 to 3/8 coupler is all the hose needed to go over the top . amazon again. No regrets.
I had the older version. The original Maxjax 10yrs ago. Worked great but one thing that bothered me and many others was that even though it was leveled during installation once you lifted a vehicle the towers became out of level. The towers would collapse about 1/4 in inward. I never had any accidents with all the different vehicles I put on it but just never felt comfortable underneath the cars. I worked under there with the thoughts of always being ready to run out. I even put wheels under the cars to save me. With this new version. Lift a vehicle then put a level on the towers. Let me know if it tilts inward. Thanks
I see most people install the lift with the control box in such a compromised area. Personally I believe these at home lifts need to have the control box a safe distance away from the lift posts. You really don't want to be back there in case of an accident.
Hey i have the same lift in my home shop, im having the anchors that came with my.lift starting to fail after a year or so now, did you ever finish this with the epoxy anchors?
1-The main thing is that you don't even know what thickness of the concrete underneath and strength of it 2-Being very close to the edge(as ot was said before) 3-if anything moves you have no where to go/run/escape. A bit too narrow when working on the side with the car up What you can do is to remove the lift , cut concrete out the square 4 time bigger then the pad and dig down a 3 foot let say instal reinforcement rebarb by drilling to the side of the existing slab in the middle of it thickness and put rebarb steel with epoxy ,foot in and foot sticking out so it will tie new and old concrete - pour strong concrete You can make templates of the lift pads to mark temporarily points of fixings and instal 12/14mm allthread bolts in to the wet concrete with L shape on the bottom end When set Reinstall the lift So you don't need to drill in to it and use epoxy fixings and hope it will never pull out on you
we just poured a new floor last week. 7 to 8 inch thick, 40 psi with rebar. just looking at your setup, thats a very narrow space to squeeze a lift, I think I have a bit more room that you do. I have 13 feet from wall to wall or 156 inches. So I have approx 20 inches more than you. After watching this I don't feel too worried now.
Yours sounds full proof you have more than enough space in every aspect. My depth is only between 4 1/2 inches between 5 1/2 inches deep and the total space between the post is 135” so you should’nt have any issues. But if you can avoid hitting the rebar I definitely would try it was a real pain even with the proper bits
Reason why you should be a good distance from the edge of the floor is because the floor (slab) is typically poured after the foundation so they are separate. Most of the pulling force is from the back of the lift columns which relies on more concrete mass behind it and you have very little. I get it that in your case, this is clearly not possible. That being said, if the columns hold, do not get under the car without the car stands you talked about. If you end up having issues with the columns moving, you could put in footings and tie into the foundation on the side as well as the profile of the floor. Consult a Pro if you have reservations doing it yourself. Also, I recommend epoxy anchors over wedge anchors as they are stronger but still not a solution to being at the edge of the slab.
Thank you for clearing that up. I did purchase the 4 jack stands just to feel safer and I will be switching to epoxy anchors sooner than later installing the anchor bolts I see how little they bite into the concrete and I don’t have much faith in them
Did your come with cylinder clamps? I bought mine open box and it’s saying to put the clamps on the cylinders. And on installation manual looks like you got to take it off to put the hose fittings on the bottom but in my case they was already installed and these clamps are loose in the box of parts. Any ideas and did yours have these?
@@ss454gm no i didn’t have any and it’s been working just fine I tried contacting support but they haven’t been great at returning my calls so I just left it as is. I looked at other videos and say no clamps on theirs
I got ahold of them it’s a added safety thing so I just clamped them on the cylinders for the heck of it. Now I’ve got to add about 20ft of hose to one side to get my pump on the wall. Did you see a difference in speed on lift after you done that. I called maxjack again to check on adding hose and they just send to try to keep hoses equal length and the lift may run slower cause added hoses
@@ss454gm i made both sides equal length however one side sits higher than the other on the locks and while lifting but I think it’s my concrete isn’t level
@@Hasinsamurayit’s been holding up great, I did purchase over sized jack stands just to give me piece of mind. But it has not showed me a reason it would need them.
How is this holding up, a year later? Do they stay level with a load on them?
got my maxjax m7k installed 2 months ago, everything went easy,
didn't hit the rebar, i returned the $36 rebar drill bit unused to amazon.
I mounted the pump to the cart, removed the wheels and hung the cart on the wall.
1x 10' hose extension and a 3/8 to 3/8 coupler is all the hose needed to go over the top . amazon again.
No regrets.
I had the older version. The original Maxjax 10yrs ago. Worked great but one thing that bothered me and many others was that even though it was leveled during installation once you lifted a vehicle the towers became out of level. The towers would collapse about 1/4 in inward. I never had any accidents with all the different vehicles I put on it but just never felt comfortable underneath the cars. I worked under there with the thoughts of always being ready to run out. I even put wheels under the cars to save me. With this new version. Lift a vehicle then put a level on the towers. Let me know if it tilts inward. Thanks
I see most people install the lift with the control box in such a compromised area. Personally I believe these at home lifts need to have the control box a safe distance away from the lift posts. You really don't want to be back there in case of an accident.
Hey i have the same lift in my home shop, im having the anchors that came with my.lift starting to fail after a year or so now, did you ever finish this with the epoxy anchors?
1-The main thing is that you don't even know what thickness of the concrete underneath and strength of it
2-Being very close to the edge(as ot was said before)
3-if anything moves you have no where to go/run/escape.
A bit too narrow when working on the side with the car up
What you can do is to remove the lift , cut concrete out the square 4 time bigger then the pad and dig down a 3 foot let say
instal reinforcement rebarb by drilling to the side of the existing slab in the middle of it thickness and put rebarb steel with epoxy ,foot in and foot sticking out so it will tie new and old concrete -
pour strong concrete
You can make templates of the lift pads to mark temporarily points of fixings and instal 12/14mm allthread bolts in to the wet concrete with L shape on the bottom end
When set Reinstall the lift
So you don't need to drill in to it and use epoxy fixings and hope it will never pull out on you
okay thats realy cool carlift - i buy a garage and buy also this one - greatings from germany! :D
do you have any issue with the lift not going down all the way by routing the hoses up to the ceiling?
Where can I get some of them composite toe Crocs... 😆
we just poured a new floor last week. 7 to 8 inch thick, 40 psi with rebar.
just looking at your setup, thats a very narrow space to squeeze a lift, I think I have a bit more room that you do.
I have 13 feet from wall to wall or 156 inches. So I have approx 20 inches more than you.
After watching this I don't feel too worried now.
Yours sounds full proof you have more than enough space in every aspect. My depth is only between 4 1/2 inches between 5 1/2 inches deep and the total space between the post is 135” so you should’nt have any issues. But if you can avoid hitting the rebar I definitely would try it was a real pain even with the proper bits
trying to find how wide to instll them
Waiting for my lift to arrive. What size hydraulic hose did you buy? Do they sell it on the Max Jax site?
I went off this write up and got em off Amazon
my1series.com/2019/06/13/how-to-install-maxjax-lift-in-home-garage-review-mods/
Reason why you should be a good distance from the edge of the floor is because the floor (slab) is typically poured after the foundation so they are separate. Most of the pulling force is from the back of the lift columns which relies on more concrete mass behind it and you have very little. I get it that in your case, this is clearly not possible. That being said, if the columns hold, do not get under the car without the car stands you talked about. If you end up having issues with the columns moving, you could put in footings and tie into the foundation on the side as well as the profile of the floor. Consult a Pro if you have reservations doing it yourself. Also, I recommend epoxy anchors over wedge anchors as they are stronger but still not a solution to being at the edge of the slab.
Thank you for clearing that up. I did purchase the 4 jack stands just to feel safer and I will be switching to epoxy anchors sooner than later installing the anchor bolts I see how little they bite into the concrete and I don’t have much faith in them
How wide are the post from outer edge of one post to the other? I have the same garage setup and I’m thinking about adding in a maxjax as well
Just shy of 135” the manual calls for 105”-135”
@@CHUCKSNDUNKS Thank you for sharing.
Nice video thanks!!!
Did you end up getting the epoxy anchor kit? I’m looking to buy 3 if you have extras
Not yet I only bought the jack stands so far
@@CHUCKSNDUNKS if you need some I bought the complete kit just for 1.. I can sell you remainder if you want
Did your come with cylinder clamps? I bought mine open box and it’s saying to put the clamps on the cylinders. And on installation manual looks like you got to take it off to put the hose fittings on the bottom but in my case they was already installed and these clamps are loose in the box of parts. Any ideas and did yours have these?
I read that on the instructions as well but mine did not have them on or in the box
Ok so your ain’t got no clamp on it now then
@@ss454gm no i didn’t have any and it’s been working just fine I tried contacting support but they haven’t been great at returning my calls so I just left it as is. I looked at other videos and say no clamps on theirs
I got ahold of them it’s a added safety thing so I just clamped them on the cylinders for the heck of it. Now I’ve got to add about 20ft of hose to one side to get my pump on the wall. Did you see a difference in speed on lift after you done that. I called maxjack again to check on adding hose and they just send to try to keep hoses equal length and the lift may run slower cause added hoses
@@ss454gm i made both sides equal length however one side sits higher than the other on the locks and while lifting but I think it’s my concrete isn’t level
I’m jealous!
It’ll be here when you toss that K20A in
Does the bolt kit comes included or not?
Concrete anchors yes
HOw did it sustain so far? Planning to buy one. Thanks for the answer :)@@CHUCKSNDUNKS
@@Hasinsamurayit’s been holding up great, I did purchase over sized jack stands just to give me piece of mind. But it has not showed me a reason it would need them.