I have heard that people use black plastic or tin foil to exclude light to stop the moss from drying out in the sun, I have always used clear plastic and even plastic water bottles for air layering and have always got great results, go figure lol, I love your enthusiasm and the easy way you teach, you remind me of my dear late father who loved trees, and although he was from Ireland, you pronounce some of your words the same like 'three' as 'tree', love it thank you for all you share!
I learned this tchnique as child from our gardener, as I was growing up in Pakistan. When my father was retired, we returned to Europe, and I found out, that air layering is totally unknown here. This was in 1978. :-)
True! I watched a lot of tutorials in this topic and this one is really one of the best. What I don't understand is why people don't make their lives so much easier with the air layering boxes myfirsttree.com sells. I mean it's a gadget specially made for the procedure to ensure that the cutting will survive and if you do a tutorial I would recommend to a newbie to use the best tools from the beginnig.
@@lisasternenkind6467 I know it's amazing. I saw it in Bonsai books years ago, but thought it looked so complex and awkward. Peter explains it so well. We got 3 air layers to work on a massive rosemary tree this year, so delighted.
Cambium layer is that which contains the phloem. Phloem transports sugars and secondary metabolites from from photosynthesis process down the tree to be stored in the roots. The xylem is deeper in the heart wood of the tree and supplies nutrients and water to the leaves for that photosynthesis. By removing the cambium you are basically telling the plant “hey, you now have access to no roots to store your hard earned sugars. You must make new sugar sinks (new roots) so you can store your sugar for later use. The whole time, however, the air layered top is still supplied with water and nutrients via the xylem, thus reducing stress and debydration
Actually the cambium itself is the cell layer that produces new phloem outwards and xylem inwards. That means that removing that layer the tree won't be able to make new tissue in that area, like, what you want, roots. Also indeed the phloem is also removed since it forms outwards from the cambium, so what you're saying is true but it doesn't apply to the cambium but just to the phloem layer
Lynx rufus verty astute. Thank you for the correction. You are indeed correct and that is why too deep of a cut will ruin your efforts. I should be a little more precise next time, thanks!
peter chan your work is amazing and i am glad you could see that i meant no disrespect by adding my two cents. Your videos have intensified my love of bonsai and i have learned more in technique from you than just about anyone else on youtube! I may have “book smarts” but it pales in comparison to real experience!
Thank you so much for these brilliantly informative videos. I am 21 and starting my first bonsai trees (elms and a larch), and your videos are helping me to see relatively rapid progress.
I cannot explain how thankful I am, and how unbelievably helpful this is. This is basically the ticket to the party in bonsai making. Not only for bonsai making BTW, I'm sure of that, no doubt I will use this in the (near) future.
As always that's so helpful and I can't thank you enough for your time and super informative videos. I want to try air layering and I have been thinking about it for awhile but just didn't feel like I was well enough informed. Thanks for this one. I'm much more secure in trying to air layer. You're such a great teacher 😃
It's always a delight to watch and listen to your passion and wisdom. I think you are my grandpa. When I watch other peoples videos I sometimes be like "c'mon get me to the bottom of this". But when I listen to you, I just have that patience and yearn to learn more. Thank you always for sharing your wisdom!
With the reduced volume, the intro actually has the same volume as the video. Usually it's very loud. :) Thank you for this explanation/tutorial! This one's going to help me a lot in the near future.
So much information. Telling us about your failures is a good feature. Warts and all. Colin Lewis used to do this as well. Good for us mere mortals. Great video as always Peter.
I'm laughing, because I have several air layerings going right now and I was wondering what the limit might be as to the thickness of the branch that I can layer. This hornbeam far exceeds any ambitions I had. Very good!
i have been watching quite a few of your videos and find them very interesting and informative.my dad introduced me to bonsai,after reading about six bonsai books,i have read one of your books cover to cover and my confidence about trying air layering has grown enough to try.i have a juniper in my front garden with five very potential air layers that will make quite good bonsai trees,my dad also gave me quite a few bonsai pots of various sizes,so im looking forward to having a go in spring 2020,all the best peter,from kieron,ps you are a legend
Thank you Mr. Chan for this great video! Please upload more videos regarding Japanese Maples. Also, I would like to know more about grafting. Have you ever done grafting on Japanese Maples? If possible, I would like to know the pros and cons regarding grafting method.
I only had one success out of six. A variegated maple ‘butterfly’ I think. Iv just detached it from the parent tree today 18 August. It had plenty roots hopefully it will now carry on growing. Thank you for the information.
Wow, I always thought roots came from the ring area. Tks I learned something valuable from the video. No wonder my airlayer failed, too much moss on the ring but not above.
Your last air layering video is what brought me to your channel and I've been watching all your videos ever since. I am glad that you addressed the failures of some of your attempts as i had experienced that same callusing with my attempts to air layer some golden rain trees in my mother in laws garden. After you made it look so easy i wasn't expecting any failure but i guess that's how it goes. I am still attempting air layering though, as i live in Australia, i have to wait for spring to come around. as always thank you for sharing.
Thanks Mr Chan for another great instruction, I saved my moms Larch Forrest with Spag and now I saved her 6' tall pine same way, I am doing an air layer on a very cool downward branch on an Italian Plum tree, been about 5 weeks, will be excited if it works, this tree has many very unusual branches that would make great stand alone trees.
Thank you Peter, I enjoy your videos , & your knowledge I've been seeking for 45 yrs. It's wonderful & I Appreciate you've chosen to share it. I look forward to learning more. Thank you 😊❤️
Excellent video and very informative, as always. I think it’s probably the best video I’ve seen showing Air Layering and explaining it thoroughly, including when you can do it. While watching this however, I was reminded of an old adage I was told around 60 years ago and lived by the wisdom it imparts, which was, “ Never cut towards your thumb; always cut towards your chum”.
this the best how to do air layering video on youtube. I used to do air layering my mango tree, bougainvillea, rambutan and many of fruit tree. I use what ever plastic that I have some times I use as simple as a plastic bag color isn't matter as well. keep it moist and Indonesian tropical humidity will do the rest. in 2 weeks it would be ready
You are correct on all of your points. Black plastic is for warmth but doesn't exclude light when used with moss. You've helped me so much Mr. Peter. 👍
Thank you. I learned a lot from the video. I have a huge green Japanese Maple in my back yard and it drops many seeds. I use the seeds to grow many trees too.
Thank you for your knowledge! I have a pomegranate bonsai I bought that like your watering video talked I didn't water enough and then watered to much so half of the tree died. I am thinking of air layering what I have left. Love your work and always thank you.
I like your channel Mr. Chan! I saw all your videos and I love, how you respect other people's viewing/thinking! Keep it up! Go ahead with two branch principles! :)
Hello, your videos are truly inspiring and you are a true master of this art form, loving and sharing your stories and videos. A true inspiration to everyone. Peace 🙏🏽
Many thanks Mr Chan for a very interesting video. I live in Granada, South of Spain and I am learning a lot with all your videos, they are really clearly explained and I love to see your trees and how you design and create so lovely bonsais.
Thank you peter for your theory..I’m agree with you and i think this is the reason why my air layering not very successful i really appreciate your channel show 🙏🏻
Thanks again! I hear that the closer to the trunk the faster/greater chance of successful air layering. Being a one man show and a dreamer by trade, my branch tends to be too big for my snippers, so to speak. I find myself faced with some field grown specimens that I've let get so big that the extraction is a major undertaking and the root balls huge. Once I harvest the air layers up top I'll ground layer, I reckon. My original intended point was that maybe it's how close to the ground the air layer is rather than proximity to the trunk that increases success for certain species.
Great tutorial. I recently purchased The Bonsai Beginners Bible and find it very informative. Heron Bonsai is mentioned as a go to for advise on a Facebook page I recently joined for beginner enthusiasts. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise. Cheers
The sapwood is what send water up to the tree. The cambium send nutrients down to the roots. By removing the cambium the nutrients don’t reach the roots causing the tree to throw roots right above where you removed the bark and cambium layer
When i was a child [now 71] i broke a seven foot stick off a tree and after playing with it i stuck it in the ground and went for lunch. It quickly grew and had to be moved. It is now a giant tree. Is there any major advantage in keeping the proposed new tree attached until rooted?
@@mrsillywalk If you remove it from the tree water and nutrients cannot be transported from the roots to the leaves and the leaves might dry out and die.
I haver had much success using a wood saw and just pushing hard and comb the area once. It leaves stripes which also leaves some cambium. Love your videos and books!
Thanks sir, with your guidance I was able to air layer 1 ficus racemosa and 1 guriyal (Bauhinia variegata)( kachnar). Both rooted in almost 2-3 months and i have successfully harvested and planted them. Hopefully they will survive. Thanks and love from India.
Peter, From what I heard/Read about using black plastic was that the sphagnum moss is wrapped with clear plastic the black plastic is wrapped around the clear plastic, The black plastic keeps the light from the white growing tips on the roots and is removed to check for growth then replaced after if no growth is there, I'm not 100% sure but I think the light affects the white tip root growth as they doesn't stay white if they're uncovered in the ground for very long! :)
have tried this method last year for the first time on five trees of which I hope I will have 3 which look good now this year intend to go overboard well maybe its a very good insight to what I can do given the time scale etc
Thank you. Very informative.♥️ The tree has 2 directions food flows. The layer behind the bark brings sugars to the roots and creates new roots. That's what you remove to get roots where u want. After that comes the inner wood. That carries water up the trees trunk to the leaves. That stays in tact so the upper part that you air layer is fed by the old roots, so it's not near death at all. So no, the tree is not producing roots to survive. It's producing roots cause of sugar/hormone build up where the first layer after bark was removed.
That’s very interesting.. i was unaware that the inner meat of the tree served any function at all, besides being the offal of that trees past incarnations that it lives around.. i learn something new every day!
I like this method of air layering. My question is do you chop off the new growth to make yet a new plant? What other possibilities are there after it successfully makes new roots? How many day doe it take to have the new tree survive on its own? I appreciate you helping me learn, I am fascinated
I had 3 of 6 work out for me last year using your other video as a reference, did 3 then 3 more later in summer. some from each time survived. my question is this, when is the best time of year to start an airliner and when shouldn't you? i noticed you left the one with the callous for 2 years and the sun broke down the plastic, i have left several on a large acer at my sisters place since last year, could there be hope for those? we get a couple freezes here in the souther US but no hard long freezes. thank you so very much, I look forward to your videos and your loud shirt
"If I said this tree was 40, even 50, years old you would believe it" Yup!!!! That's the thing that's so difficult with using tree-age as any significant "metric" for measuring a tree, I'm in zone 10a and only a couple of my species go dormant over the winter, so I'm growing year-round on most of my trees with the summer being like a greenhouse & winter being slower growth, point being that I have specimen that I could lie about and call them 2, 3 even 4 times as old as they truly are *just* because of how fast my environment & my techniques have pushed growth (I use Walter Pall's heavy fertilization program, 3-4x daily irrigation at minimum, up-pot trees as soon as they're tight in their containers etc) THANK YOU so, soooo much for this video, I do not purchase trees I propagate or collect them, my biggest propagate is a 5" wide bougainvillea piece that was taken as a cutting, I've never air-layered something so large BUT, seeing your video, I now see that I can use the technique to get myself the Podocarpus specimen I've been dreaming of, something with a huge fat base - I can see that the branch you layered in this ^ video appears to just be *part of* a branch IE it's very straight / no trunk-flare or nebari, I have a trick you may like if you don't already use it: when selecting your air-layering (or hardwood cutting like I do), don't just get part-of a branch, go lower than that and get the BRANCH'S COLLAR as well- instant flare at the base!! Works awesome with hardwood cuttings, I suspect that there's more epicormic tissue in the branch-collar area because they always root better this way, it isn't always easy to get the piece from the parent because of course you have to remove not only your cutting/layering but also the branch it comes from (well, *some of* that branch!) but to get the branch's collar to become your new trunk-base-flare / nebari is totally worth it! Again thanks a lot for this I don' t know why I never "thought big" in this way but it's so obvious now, I'm very very drawn to large trunks and generally don't even make or collect a tree if it's not at least 2.5-->3.5" wide (before trunk-flare) so collections were the majority of my trees but I can already tell that in my hot, humid environment (w/o a real winter!), that air-layering a beast-sized chunk of tree will be possible, thanks a ton you just "gave" me a bunch of new trees :D All your videos are excellent but this one will surely provide me the most actual value as I'll surely get 5-10 great new specimen through the next year this way!!
Tried air-layering on my Paperbark, but did not succeed, due to not covering enough above the cut, thought it was going to root on the cut, not above it... but thank you Peter, now we have again learbed more. Atleast I am sitting with a decent callus detail, just above a turn in the trunk, with some nice aerial rooting (still covered with soil after repotting though)...
greetings from Australia... i tried several air layers last year. on silver birch, liquid amber, elm and ash.... i left the air layers on for 3 months..., but not one of them was successful...each only formed a callus. i will try again later this year.
I am hooked - thank you for your instructional videos! Can I use the green moss that grows on the sides of rocks if I don't currently have any spaghnum?
@herons bonsai, today i just did an air layering on a gardenia, almost exactly the same size branch as the one in this video. this is my first time attempting, because this is a special cultivar that i ordered by mail about 5 years ago, and it needed to be pruned back, but i really like how it performs here in my zone 6b/7a climate. most gardenias die here, and this variety does really well. it is called "summer snow gardenia". i wonder if you ever air layered gardenias of this size branches, and if you did, how long do need to leave them before cutting them off from the mother tree. i preferred to try air-layering rather than cuttings because they still have some winter die-back on the thinner stems, and this one that i have out of the 4 total has done the best, and the stems are much thicker, like the stems size in this particular video of yours. also, i did not have sphagmum moss or rooting hormone, i just did the peeling off of the bark and the green layer underneath, poured some cinnamon on it and then wrapped it in a plastic bag with dampened soil around it. i'm not sure if it will work but i already did it, so i hope it does ok. when will i be safe to cut it off from the mother tree, and after i cut it off, i saw your other video where it says to trim back some of the leaves so it doesnt strain the roots to support the tree, but can i plant it in the ground, or does it need to be potted up for a certain time instead? thank you from oak ridge, tn usa.
I will use nursery pot instead of polythene wrapping. What needs to be required is cut half portion of the pot and a big hole in the bottom of the pot. It works well try.
The movement of moisture in the bark is down that's why it swells above the cut. Sugars and starches build above the cut because they can't get down to the roots so they make their own
![ЛЕБЕДЕВ у ДУДЯ: муху не обманешь 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E74h5fvVrqs/mqdefault.jpg)
Peter Chan!
Your the best better than all the rest! Hands down! So glad you’re here!
he really is❤
I have heard that people use black plastic or tin foil to exclude light to stop the moss from drying out in the sun, I have always used clear plastic and even plastic water bottles for air layering and have always got great results, go figure lol, I love your enthusiasm and the easy way you teach, you remind me of my dear late father who loved trees, and although he was from Ireland, you pronounce some of your words the same like 'three' as 'tree', love it thank you for all you share!
Finally air layering explained simply and for everyone who never tried it now can. Thank you again Peter
I learned this tchnique as child from our gardener, as I was growing up in Pakistan. When my father was retired, we returned to Europe, and I found out, that air layering is totally unknown here. This was in 1978. :-)
True! I watched a lot of tutorials in this topic and this one is really one of the best. What I don't understand is why people don't make their lives so much easier with the air layering boxes myfirsttree.com sells. I mean it's a gadget specially made for the procedure to ensure that the cutting will survive and if you do a tutorial I would recommend to a newbie to use the best tools from the beginnig.
@@lisasternenkind6467 I know it's amazing. I saw it in Bonsai books years ago, but thought it looked so complex and awkward. Peter explains it so well. We got 3 air layers to work on a massive rosemary tree this year, so delighted.
Yes, this is amazing, and explained so well, can't wait to have a go. Thank you for showing such an amazing technique.
Cambium layer is that which contains the phloem. Phloem transports sugars and secondary metabolites from from photosynthesis process down the tree to be stored in the roots. The xylem is deeper in the heart wood of the tree and supplies nutrients and water to the leaves for that photosynthesis. By removing the cambium you are basically telling the plant “hey, you now have access to no roots to store your hard earned sugars. You must make new sugar sinks (new roots) so you can store your sugar for later use. The whole time, however, the air layered top is still supplied with water and nutrients via the xylem, thus reducing stress and debydration
Actually the cambium itself is the cell layer that produces new phloem outwards and xylem inwards. That means that removing that layer the tree won't be able to make new tissue in that area, like, what you want, roots. Also indeed the phloem is also removed since it forms outwards from the cambium, so what you're saying is true but it doesn't apply to the cambium but just to the phloem layer
Alex, Phew when do we take the exam? 😂 great explanation remember "never get old without learning something new everyday".
Thank you my friend - I did not want to blind people with science that is why I keep it simple but your explanation is good and clear.
Lynx rufus verty astute. Thank you for the correction. You are indeed correct and that is why too deep of a cut will ruin your efforts. I should be a little more precise next time, thanks!
peter chan your work is amazing and i am glad you could see that i meant no disrespect by adding my two cents. Your videos have intensified my love of bonsai and i have learned more in technique from you than just about anyone else on youtube! I may have “book smarts” but it pales in comparison to real experience!
Love Mr Chan, he seems super cool and I love it when he says stuff like “ they will grow like crazy”.
You are a true master and we are very privileged to learn from you here. Thank you sir from Australia
Thank you so much for these brilliantly informative videos. I am 21 and starting my first bonsai trees (elms and a larch), and your videos are helping me to see relatively rapid progress.
I cannot explain how thankful I am, and how unbelievably helpful this is. This is basically the ticket to the party in bonsai making. Not only for bonsai making BTW, I'm sure of that, no doubt I will use this in the (near) future.
As always that's so helpful and I can't thank you enough for your time and super informative videos. I want to try air layering and I have been thinking about it for awhile but just didn't feel like I was well enough informed. Thanks for this one. I'm much more secure in trying to air layer. You're such a great teacher 😃
It's always a delight to watch and listen to your passion and wisdom. I think you are my grandpa. When I watch other peoples videos I sometimes be like "c'mon get me to the bottom of this". But when I listen to you, I just have that patience and yearn to learn more. Thank you always for sharing your wisdom!
Peter is absolutely right with his assessment of types of plastics used for air layering
With the reduced volume, the intro actually has the same volume as the video. Usually it's very loud. :)
Thank you for this explanation/tutorial! This one's going to help me a lot in the near future.
So much information. Telling us about your failures is a good feature. Warts and all. Colin Lewis used to do this as well. Good for us mere mortals. Great video as always Peter.
I'm laughing, because I have several air layerings going right now and I was wondering what the limit might be as to the thickness of the branch that I can layer. This hornbeam far exceeds any ambitions I had. Very good!
i have been watching quite a few of your videos and find them very interesting and informative.my dad introduced me to bonsai,after reading about six bonsai books,i have read one of your books cover to cover and my confidence about trying air layering has grown enough to try.i have a juniper in my front garden with five very potential air layers that will make quite good bonsai trees,my dad also gave me quite a few bonsai pots of various sizes,so im looking forward to having a go in spring 2020,all the best peter,from kieron,ps you are a legend
Thank you Mr. Chan for this great video! Please upload more videos regarding Japanese Maples. Also, I would like to know more about grafting. Have you ever done grafting on Japanese Maples? If possible, I would like to know the pros and cons regarding grafting method.
I’ve did 6 acer air layers 4 weeks ago following your instructions, just keeping my fingers crossed now.
I only had one success out of six. A variegated maple ‘butterfly’ I think. Iv just detached it from the parent tree today 18 August. It had plenty roots hopefully it will now carry on growing. Thank you for the information.
Awesome video, perfect timing - was just about to try air layering :)
Technical issues or not I will never miss a video because I love the teachers teachings.
Wow, I always thought roots came from the ring area. Tks I learned something valuable from the video. No wonder my airlayer failed, too much moss on the ring but not above.
Your last air layering video is what brought me to your channel and I've been watching all your videos ever since.
I am glad that you addressed the failures of some of your attempts as i had experienced that same callusing with my attempts to air layer some golden rain trees in my mother in laws garden.
After you made it look so easy i wasn't expecting any failure but i guess that's how it goes. I am still attempting air layering though, as i live in Australia, i have to wait for spring to come around.
as always thank you for sharing.
Finally a airlayering video from a trusted source.
Maybe doing a video about propagating cuttings next? I had no luck trying it.
Thats coming up soon
I second your comment
Thanks Mr Chan for another great instruction, I saved my moms Larch Forrest with Spag and now I saved her 6' tall pine same way, I am doing an air layer on a very cool downward branch on an Italian Plum tree, been about 5 weeks, will be excited if it works, this tree has many very unusual branches that would make great stand alone trees.
As well as enjoying your knowledge of techniques for air layering Peter, I also loved the music that accompanies the video 😊
Thank you Peter, I enjoy your videos , & your knowledge I've been seeking for 45 yrs.
It's wonderful & I Appreciate you've chosen to share it.
I look forward to learning more. Thank you 😊❤️
Great video as usual. Thank you, Sir!
Excellent video and very informative, as always. I think it’s probably the best video I’ve seen showing Air Layering and explaining it thoroughly, including when you can do it. While watching this however, I was reminded of an old adage I was told around 60 years ago and lived by the wisdom it imparts, which was, “ Never cut towards your thumb; always cut towards your chum”.
You answered so many questions for me. I wish I would have saw this video 6 weeks ago. I have had some success.
this the best how to do air layering video on youtube.
I used to do air layering my mango tree, bougainvillea, rambutan and many of fruit tree. I use what ever plastic that I have some times I use as simple as a plastic bag color isn't matter as well. keep it moist and Indonesian tropical humidity will do the rest. in 2 weeks it would be ready
Great timing, I was just directing someone to your last video on this! I've a nice thick maple in the garden, will definitely have to give it a try :)
You are correct on all of your points. Black plastic is for warmth but doesn't exclude light when used with moss. You've helped me so much Mr. Peter. 👍
New to bonsai and really enjoying your videos. Thank yo so much for sharing your knowledge. A true gift.
Understanding our successes and failures. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you. I learned a lot from the video. I have a huge green Japanese Maple in my back yard and it drops many seeds. I use the seeds to grow many trees too.
I appreciate you for many things. Your volume is better than half of videos I see. Thank you
Great content, as usual. Thanks!
There’s a maple in the woods behind my place. Ive been considering aire layering part of it. Thanks for the advice!
Thank you for your knowledge! I have a pomegranate bonsai I bought that like your watering video talked I didn't water enough and then watered to much so half of the tree died. I am thinking of air layering what I have left. Love your work and always thank you.
Thank you so much for sharing this information. I love you my friend!
Beautiful as always, Peter!!
Just when I was thinking if there was some shortcut to good looking bonsai. 😊
May God bless you with 1000 more bonsai in you garden. 😋
Thanks so much for this valuable information! I use CC all the time since my speakers are on the blink so I was fine with the video! :)
Truly fascinating Peter thanks for sharing 🌳🌳🌳
No problem understanding the Video, and in fact it was very educational as usual. Thanks for posting!
I like your channel Mr. Chan! I saw all your videos and I love, how you respect other people's viewing/thinking! Keep it up!
Go ahead with two branch principles! :)
Hello, your videos are truly inspiring and you are a true master of this art form, loving and sharing your stories and videos. A true inspiration to everyone. Peace 🙏🏽
Many thanks Mr Chan for a very interesting video. I live in Granada, South of Spain and I am learning a lot with all your videos, they are really clearly explained and I love to see your trees and how you design and create so lovely bonsais.
Thank you peter for your theory..I’m agree with you and i think this is the reason why my air layering not very successful i really appreciate your channel show 🙏🏻
Good video, thanks for making and sharing Peter.
Fascinating and inspirational!
another great video! Thank you.
Thanks again! I hear that the closer to the trunk the faster/greater chance of successful air layering. Being a one man show and a dreamer by trade, my branch tends to be too big for my snippers, so to speak. I find myself faced with some field grown specimens that I've let get so big that the extraction is a major undertaking and the root balls huge. Once I harvest the air layers up top I'll ground layer, I reckon.
My original intended point was that maybe it's how close to the ground the air layer is rather than proximity to the trunk that increases success for certain species.
Great tutorial. I recently purchased The Bonsai Beginners Bible and find it very informative. Heron Bonsai is mentioned as a go to for advise on a Facebook page I recently joined for beginner enthusiasts. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise. Cheers
Thanks for this simple but thorough video. I am now going to try this to propagate my peach and nectarine trees.
Thanks Pete! I started my first airlayerings today... Acer palmatum and Italian plum tree
The red maple at the end of the video.... isn’t it an emperor 1 red maple?
Great video, it is a pleasure to be instructed by a real master
I really like how you present, and explain everything. Great videos, just discovered you ! Thank you very much.
thanks for the inches lol!! i cant wait to try my 1st air layer! you should do a video on mame and shohin bonsai! ❤️
The sapwood is what send water up to the tree. The cambium send nutrients down to the roots. By removing the cambium the nutrients don’t reach the roots causing the tree to throw roots right above where you removed the bark and cambium layer
When i was a child [now 71] i broke a seven foot stick off a tree and after playing with it i stuck it in the ground and went for lunch. It quickly grew and had to be moved. It is now a giant tree. Is there any major advantage in keeping the proposed new tree attached until rooted?
@@mrsillywalk If you remove it from the tree water and nutrients cannot be transported from the roots to the leaves and the leaves might dry out and die.
Chris Willette Bonsai exactly.
@@mrsillywalk What species was it?
Isn't cambium basically stemcells that produce phloem or xylem? It prodeuces new specialized cells, but not a transporter in itself?
So informative! Thank you so much!
Ya man rasta, mi brethren, another cool video, keep up the good work brother rasta
lol
Thanks for this video. I will use this method with my bay leaf tree. 👍
Thankyou so much. You explain it beautifully, patient and kind.
thanks a lot peter for sharing a valuable video we learn a lot from this vedeo.
Got plenty of bubble wrap from online shopping, gonna try it on a Hibiscus tree. Thank you for the detailed explanations.
I haver had much success using a wood saw and just pushing hard and comb the area once. It leaves stripes which also leaves some cambium. Love your videos and books!
Great help and advice many thanks👏
Hello all viewers, no need asking any questions. He doesn't reply to anyone. Just enjoy watching the videos, he is very knowledgeable.
Thanks sir, with your guidance I was able to air layer 1 ficus racemosa and 1 guriyal (Bauhinia variegata)( kachnar). Both rooted in almost 2-3 months and i have successfully harvested and planted them. Hopefully they will survive. Thanks and love from India.
First off bring back "the shirt" secondly great video as always very informative and helpful!
I am a poor old man - I have run out of nice shirts. Perhaps a Hawaiian shirt maker could sponsor me - Just a suggestion! Ha Ha.
Me: where's my Peter Chan?
Wife: hands me my Hawaiian shirt.
True story.
@@raidero2742 -I have a few more colourful shirts that I will be wearing. Just wait.
Ha!
Excellent information. Thank you.
Peter, From what I heard/Read about using black plastic was that the sphagnum moss is wrapped with clear plastic the black plastic is wrapped around the clear plastic, The black plastic keeps the light from the white growing tips on the roots and is removed to check for growth then replaced after if no growth is there, I'm not 100% sure but I think the light affects the white tip root growth as they doesn't stay white if they're uncovered in the ground for very long! :)
I have a bunch of air layers to start this year 😀
Me too, my neighbor has a beautiful Japanese maple. I hope they don't mind if I top it off for them. 🤔
I would recommend to use the air layering boxes from myfirsttree.com these boxes ensure that the cuttling will survive at the end
This is so ingenious!
Nature is fascinating 👍👍👍
I've gotta get his books which has captured his vast wealth of knowledge.
Wonderful informative video!
Black plastick is used to produce more heat like you said and it also blocks out more sunlight at the wound. Thank you for the tips
I have saved at least three sick bonsais with your method of potting in spagnhum moss . It’s an amazing remedy ,
What type of spaghnum moss did you use? I have a tree I want to save, but I can only buy dried spaghnum moss.
have tried this method last year for the first time on five trees of which I hope I will have 3 which look good now this year intend to go overboard well maybe its a very good insight to what I can do given the time scale etc
Thank you. Very informative.♥️ The tree has 2 directions food flows. The layer behind the bark brings sugars to the roots and creates new roots. That's what you remove to get roots where u want. After that comes the inner wood. That carries water up the trees trunk to the leaves. That stays in tact so the upper part that you air layer is fed by the old roots, so it's not near death at all. So no, the tree is not producing roots to survive. It's producing roots cause of sugar/hormone build up where the first layer after bark was removed.
That’s very interesting.. i was unaware that the inner meat of the tree served any function at all, besides being the offal of that trees past incarnations that it lives around.. i learn something new every day!
I like this method of air layering. My question is do you chop off the new growth to make yet a new plant? What other possibilities are there after it successfully makes new roots? How many day doe it take to have the new tree survive on its own? I appreciate you helping me learn, I am fascinated
Thanks Mr Chan I also was wondering
If you had to keep watering the air layer, excellent video.
fantastic sir
I had 3 of 6 work out for me last year using your other video as a reference, did 3 then 3 more later in summer. some from each time survived. my question is this, when is the best time of year to start an airliner and when shouldn't you? i noticed you left the one with the callous for 2 years and the sun broke down the plastic, i have left several on a large acer at my sisters place since last year, could there be hope for those? we get a couple freezes here in the souther US but no hard long freezes.
thank you so very much, I look forward to your videos and your loud shirt
Peter can I live next door to you and be your assistant? ahahha....I wish I could...thank you this so cool.
Fantastic video
Peter thank you once again
"If I said this tree was 40, even 50, years old you would believe it" Yup!!!! That's the thing that's so difficult with using tree-age as any significant "metric" for measuring a tree, I'm in zone 10a and only a couple of my species go dormant over the winter, so I'm growing year-round on most of my trees with the summer being like a greenhouse & winter being slower growth, point being that I have specimen that I could lie about and call them 2, 3 even 4 times as old as they truly are *just* because of how fast my environment & my techniques have pushed growth (I use Walter Pall's heavy fertilization program, 3-4x daily irrigation at minimum, up-pot trees as soon as they're tight in their containers etc)
THANK YOU so, soooo much for this video, I do not purchase trees I propagate or collect them, my biggest propagate is a 5" wide bougainvillea piece that was taken as a cutting, I've never air-layered something so large BUT, seeing your video, I now see that I can use the technique to get myself the Podocarpus specimen I've been dreaming of, something with a huge fat base - I can see that the branch you layered in this ^ video appears to just be *part of* a branch IE it's very straight / no trunk-flare or nebari, I have a trick you may like if you don't already use it: when selecting your air-layering (or hardwood cutting like I do), don't just get part-of a branch, go lower than that and get the BRANCH'S COLLAR as well- instant flare at the base!! Works awesome with hardwood cuttings, I suspect that there's more epicormic tissue in the branch-collar area because they always root better this way, it isn't always easy to get the piece from the parent because of course you have to remove not only your cutting/layering but also the branch it comes from (well, *some of* that branch!) but to get the branch's collar to become your new trunk-base-flare / nebari is totally worth it!
Again thanks a lot for this I don' t know why I never "thought big" in this way but it's so obvious now, I'm very very drawn to large trunks and generally don't even make or collect a tree if it's not at least 2.5-->3.5" wide (before trunk-flare) so collections were the majority of my trees but I can already tell that in my hot, humid environment (w/o a real winter!), that air-layering a beast-sized chunk of tree will be possible, thanks a ton you just "gave" me a bunch of new trees :D All your videos are excellent but this one will surely provide me the most actual value as I'll surely get 5-10 great new specimen through the next year this way!!
Sir, you are awesome...
Oh I haven't got 100 years to wait.... best excuse ever Haha Haha.ur ace
Tried air-layering on my Paperbark, but did not succeed, due to not covering enough above the cut, thought it was going to root on the cut, not above it... but thank you Peter, now we have again learbed more. Atleast I am sitting with a decent callus detail, just above a turn in the trunk, with some nice aerial rooting (still covered with soil after repotting though)...
Fantastic, thank you
greetings from Australia... i tried several air layers last year. on silver birch, liquid amber, elm and ash.... i left the air layers on for 3 months..., but not one of them was successful...each only formed a callus. i will try again later this year.
I am hooked - thank you for your instructional videos! Can I use the green moss that grows on the sides of rocks if I don't currently have any spaghnum?
thanks peter. such a ledge 😎👍
@herons bonsai, today i just did an air layering on a gardenia, almost exactly the same size branch as the one in this video. this is my first time attempting, because this is a special cultivar that i ordered by mail about 5 years ago, and it needed to be pruned back, but i really like how it performs here in my zone 6b/7a climate. most gardenias die here, and this variety does really well. it is called "summer snow gardenia". i wonder if you ever air layered gardenias of this size branches, and if you did, how long do need to leave them before cutting them off from the mother tree. i preferred to try air-layering rather than cuttings because they still have some winter die-back on the thinner stems, and this one that i have out of the 4 total has done the best, and the stems are much thicker, like the stems size in this particular video of yours. also, i did not have sphagmum moss or rooting hormone, i just did the peeling off of the bark and the green layer underneath, poured some cinnamon on it and then wrapped it in a plastic bag with dampened soil around it. i'm not sure if it will work but i already did it, so i hope it does ok. when will i be safe to cut it off from the mother tree, and after i cut it off, i saw your other video where it says to trim back some of the leaves so it doesnt strain the roots to support the tree, but can i plant it in the ground, or does it need to be potted up for a certain time instead? thank you from oak ridge, tn usa.
I will use nursery pot instead of polythene wrapping.
What needs to be required is cut half portion of the pot and a big hole in the bottom of the pot.
It works well try.
In the tropics that would work well but here in the UK - not so good
The movement of moisture in the bark is down that's why it swells above the cut. Sugars and starches build above the cut because they can't get down to the roots so they make their own
Love this guy❤️