Hello and thank you! When my interest in wrapping began, I worked in many schools in England: periodically the music teacher would take this, have that: and seldom did the shells match, so I began ripping off original wraps, and unifying the best shells (4 piece, even three piece) with the same wrap. So with a matched set, Pearl, which may be quite good: perhaps a large scale wrapping job is risky. Also as said, if the shell is a stained and glossy finish, don’t be tricked that wrap will work.... the shell you re wrap, should have an out side size, suitable for wrap: glossy wood shells are fractionally wider.
I guess I fail to understand how you are going to "scratch" a drum by peeling the coating on it. Are you Edward Scissor Hands or something? Is the "Scratch Potential" still high or is back down to the yellow?
Hello. If I follow your point correctly, then no I’ve not got appendages that would scratch the drum. But I could produce 100s of experienced craftsmen, who would agree that - after spending lots of time on a project, be careful in the closing stages. Also, any nick, rub or scrape on a pristine wrap will show, much like cars, and what is called a “show room finish”. The more pristine the ‘finish’, the more that the item - will clearly display scratches. Black is of course the worst, as they say.
Hello and sorry for delay. The wrap comes from Precision Drum Company. In North America, there are a few others who do equally good wrap, and also some cheaper products. I lived in England for 25 years, and as Europe, there are other suppliers (in fact it used to be said that all wrap came from Italy). But I’m not up on where it’s at, at this moment. I suppose prices may have gone up (like so many other items).
Hello. First, the original metal breather insert is ripped out: manufactures have a superior system to “us” so it’s painstaking as shown in vid; but the following will hold forever. With the bare shell, including all original holes, wrap as shown: Then tap the nail: and work out the holes: including the larger breather hole: and it’s wrap at this stage. But for the breather “under size it” so when you tap in the new metal breather finisher it grips. If the hole left is too small, the new metal breather could rip. Just follow the video.. (And it’s amazing to me, that after so many replies by me to user questions: I never get a like in return. Never an acknowledgement, never a reply.)
So, as long as a majority of original “wood” is intact, then the wrap will match it well, it won’t concave into any lost “area” of shell. Did it splinter? That’s fine, or probably fine. By all means write me back. Sorry again, I do try to watch for comments, questions.
That’s great Wood filler is great, and I think as follows: apply the filter as you mean it to be, not like some jobs where you over fill, and then sand. I think it’s important not to sand a shell, because that process if too aggressive, will change the shape. So I’d use a putty knife, apply firmly, and scrape quickly. Small rough sand, in on,y the area applied.
Very good question: 1) Manufacturers near-never place a seam on or down a [pair] of lug fittings. Although manufacturers [Pearl/ Tama/ Yamaha etc] usually use thinner wrap than I’ve displayed here, placing a seam perpendicular along the pair of lug fittings adds mass. So then, when consumers like us use wrap at 2.5 mms, and double it up on a seam -- it will add 5 mms of mass to ONLY one sector, while all other lug sets equally distributed elevation from the shell itself. That may not seem like very much, until one uses “sparkle” wrap, in which case it’s just folly. In fact, Sparkle wrap is thick and stiff; it’ll add VERY poor mass to the one lug pair. Conclusion: if you are capable of doing a seam as seen in video, then I suggest doing so. Otherwise, of course you idea is VERY common (and a practical trade off). You may in fact wish to end the wrap precisely-down the center of the lug pairs, and only need leave half circles - for a better look and less mass. Good luck!!
I purchase wrap from Precision Drum Company in New York. Having said that, my Canadian Dollar currency has devalued badly against the USD, so I'm cost-prohibited from doing more with their products. I recommend their products nonetheless, and I'm not impressed with the thinner/ peel off adhesive type of wrap, sold by other companies; although it may suit some customers and some situations better. If you can review the comments on Video#1 - there is more information related to your question. Good luck!!
In the case of these Pearl EX shells, the silver badge is firmly affixed to the original wrap: it simply cannot be removed from the [discarded] wrap, but the user could carefully cut around the Badge: and the badge would have a few mms more height. In this case it could then be glued: but not something I'd do. In many cases, the original badge is affixed to/ with the eyelet - and again, in that case the badge will be destroyed. Cheers.
More relevant & updated info here: ua-cam.com/video/wT6vkekOwsU/v-deo.html . Thanks again for watching!
They look awesome!!!
Thanks for comment. I have a matched 20” Bass Drum: but all the drums and everything are in cases, and stuck in a storage container :(
Wow man they are Beautiful. I wanna re-rap my Pearl's So bad but I'm worried if I might mess it up lol Great job tho
Hello and thank you! When my interest in wrapping began, I worked in many schools in England: periodically the music teacher would take this, have that: and seldom did the shells match, so I began ripping off original wraps, and unifying the best shells (4 piece, even three piece) with the same wrap. So with a matched set, Pearl, which may be quite good: perhaps a large scale wrapping job is risky. Also as said, if the shell is a stained and glossy finish, don’t be tricked that wrap will work.... the shell you re wrap, should have an out side size, suitable for wrap: glossy wood shells are fractionally wider.
I guess I fail to understand how you are going to "scratch" a drum by peeling the coating on it. Are you Edward Scissor Hands or something? Is the "Scratch Potential" still high or is back down to the yellow?
Hello. If I follow your point correctly, then no I’ve not got appendages that would scratch the drum. But I could produce 100s of experienced craftsmen, who would agree that - after spending lots of time on a project, be careful in the closing stages. Also, any nick, rub or scrape on a pristine wrap will show, much like cars, and what is called a “show room finish”. The more pristine the ‘finish’, the more that the item - will clearly display scratches. Black is of course the worst, as they say.
Where did you get your drum wrap material from please?
Hello and sorry for delay. The wrap comes from Precision Drum Company. In North America, there are a few others who do equally good wrap, and also some cheaper products. I lived in England for 25 years, and as Europe, there are other suppliers (in fact it used to be said that all wrap came from Italy). But I’m not up on where it’s at, at this moment. I suppose prices may have gone up (like so many other items).
How is the breather secured? The bit I wanted to see (without scratching the drum) is missing.
Hello. First, the original metal breather insert is ripped out: manufactures have a superior system to “us” so it’s painstaking as shown in vid; but the following will hold forever. With the bare shell, including all original holes, wrap as shown: Then tap the nail: and work out the holes: including the larger breather hole: and it’s wrap at this stage. But for the breather “under size it” so when you tap in the new metal breather finisher it grips. If the hole left is too small, the new metal breather could rip. Just follow the video..
(And it’s amazing to me, that after so many replies by me to user questions: I never get a like in return. Never an acknowledgement, never a reply.)
Help ! LoL I've started to take wrap off and it's pulled up some of the top layer ?? What can I do to fix it ?? Any ideas will be appreciated
Hi, and I try to watch these to reply. Sorry, for delay.
So, as long as a majority of original “wood” is intact, then the wrap will match it well, it won’t concave into any lost “area” of shell.
Did it splinter? That’s fine, or probably fine. By all means write me back. Sorry again, I do try to watch for comments, questions.
@@DrumSolVanIsle I managed to get more info n I repaired it and wrapped it looks brand new
@@DrumSolVanIsle I used wood filler to fill the 3mm deep splinter
That’s great
Wood filler is great, and I think as follows: apply the filter as you mean it to be, not like some jobs where you over fill, and then sand. I think it’s important not to sand a shell, because that process if too aggressive, will change the shape. So I’d use a putty knife, apply firmly, and scrape quickly. Small rough sand, in on,y the area applied.
Why didn't you put the seam under the lugs ?
Very good question: 1) Manufacturers near-never place a seam on or down a [pair] of lug fittings. Although manufacturers [Pearl/ Tama/ Yamaha etc] usually use thinner wrap than I’ve displayed here, placing a seam perpendicular along the pair of lug fittings adds mass. So then, when consumers like us use wrap at 2.5 mms, and double it up on a seam -- it will add 5 mms of mass to ONLY one sector, while all other lug sets equally distributed elevation from the shell itself. That may not seem like very much, until one uses “sparkle” wrap, in which case it’s just folly. In fact, Sparkle wrap is thick and stiff; it’ll add VERY poor mass to the one lug pair.
Conclusion: if you are capable of doing a seam as seen in video, then I suggest doing so. Otherwise, of course you idea is VERY common (and a practical trade off). You may in fact wish to end the wrap precisely-down the center of the lug pairs, and only need leave half circles - for a better look and less mass. Good luck!!
Excellent job, where to buy that wrap, do you have the information? greetings from Chile
I purchase wrap from Precision Drum Company in New York. Having said that, my Canadian Dollar currency has devalued badly against the USD, so I'm cost-prohibited from doing more with their products.
I recommend their products nonetheless, and I'm not impressed with the thinner/ peel off adhesive type of wrap, sold by other companies; although it may suit some customers and some situations better.
If you can review the comments on Video#1 - there is more information related to your question. Good luck!!
@@DrumSolVanIsle Walopus is in Canada??
Hector yo compre los mios en WALOPUS canada...
WERE IS THE LOGO BADGE???😎🇵🇷
In the case of these Pearl EX shells, the silver badge is firmly affixed to the original wrap: it simply cannot be removed from the [discarded] wrap, but the user could carefully cut around the Badge: and the badge would have a few mms more height. In this case it could then be glued: but not something I'd do. In many cases, the original badge is affixed to/ with the eyelet - and again, in that case the badge will be destroyed. Cheers.
drumisland THANKS FOR YOUR RESPONSE '''TAKE CARE.😎🇵🇷
Great job...just I find a bit funny how you are so careful with an instrument has been made to be hit.....
... hit, thrown in cases, even rolled to a roadie (if I ever make it to the big stage) Yah I get your point. Cheers
Yeah the lunch lady gloves while screwing on the lugs had me rolling on the floor. They did turn out great though.
Seriously ? getting jiggy. You made a simple process into surgery