etrailer | Kodiak Ceramic Brake Pads Installation

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Full transcript: www.etrailer.com/tv-review-ko...
Today we will be having a look at the Kodiak ceramic brake pads, for 3,500 to 6,000 pound access, part number K225CP. Let's go over a couple of key features about these brake pads. One, they are ceramic, so they are able to withstand high temperatures, maintaining their strength and integrity for longer than either non-asbestos organic ANO, or semi-metallic models. They are great for salt water applications and the backing plate here is double coated in polyurethane, so it will resist rust. They are tampered to prevent squealing and they last twice as long as the traditional organic pad. They come in a kit with 4 brake pads, so you can replace all the brakes on your axle assembly and they are made here in the U.S.A. Now, we're going to go ahead and start installing the brakes on the right side of our trailer, but first let's go ahead and chalk the wheel on the left side, that way the trailer doesn't move any on us when we jack it up.
Now we are going to go ahead and jack up the axle on the right hand side of the trailer, making sure that we are as close to the spring as we possibly can get, that way we don't risk bending the axle. With the tire off the ground, let's go ahead and remove it. Let's go ahead and take the wheel off and set it aside out of the way for now. Now that we have the wheel removed, we have access to our brake caliper. We need to take this off to get access to the brake pads. This particular caliper uses a 13 mm bolt.
Your application may vary. Let's go ahead and take the bolt out, there's one on the top and the one on the bottom. With the bolts removed, pop the caliper off and remove our brake pads. Start with the outer one first, just kind of pop it out and the inner one has a clip that holds it inside the piston and the brake caliper. With our piston already compressed inside of our caliper, just go ahead and install the in board brake pad. Clipped into place there nicely, now let's go ahead and put the out board pad in.
We'll start with these two guide pins here. We will stick them the holes int eh out board of the caliper. This plate here will rest in this groove, or this notch. With both brake pads installed, let's go ahead and put our caliper back on the bracket. You may have to wiggle back and forth on the caliper a little bit to get the bolts to start. With the bolts started, let's go ahead and snug them up over our 13 mm wrench.
Again, your bolt size may vary, depending on which caliper you have on your trailer. With the bolts tight, let's go ahead and bend these tabs down to stake our brake pad into place against the caliper. That will keep the pad from sliding back and forth and causing noise. Take a pair of Kenalog pliers, give it a squeeze and once you get them bent like so, the pad will be secured and won't move around any back and forth. That back and forth movement will cause brake squeal or chatter and noise you may not want to hear. Now with that done, we can go ahead and put our wheel back on and move on to the other side. Start by getting our lug nuts on a few threads and we will tighten them down for impact, making sure we go in a crisscrossing star pattern. Now with the wheel tightened, we'll lower the axle on down and then we will torque the wheel down to manufacturers specifications for the trailer and we will remove our jack. Now we will just lower our wheel enough so it touches the ground and leave the jack in place to support some of the weight while we torque the wheel. Again, while we're torquing this, we're making sure we are going in a crisscrossing star pattern to make sure the wheel is torqued down evenly. With that torqued down, we can go ahead and remove our jack. That completes our look at the Kodiak ceramic brake pads, for 3,500 to 6,000 pound axles. Again, part number K225CP. .

[@warrenthomlinson6356]

Interesting that the pad being removed did not have the guide tabs bent over. It can be a bit of a PITA to remove worn out pads with bent over guide tabs!

[@alligator801]

I'm having trouble pushing in the piston back in, also dust boot is torn can I replace the dust boot myself?

[@etrailer]

We have never replaced the boot on a piston. To get the piston pushed back in we use clamps to apply even pressure.
www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Kodiak/K225CP.html

[@Cdelosreyes12]

Can you lift the trailer and change the brakes with the boat still on the trailer?

[@etrailer]

Yes you can. When lifting the trailer with a boat loaded just be sure to keep the jacks off the axle. The jacks need to make contact with the trailer frame or the spring perch. If you lift at the axle you could potentially ruin the trailer axle.
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Parts#wheelparts

[@kubaSWAT]

What’s the average torque for wheels?

[@ng4410]

Jack stands. DIYers see this. Anything drops damage to rotors or bodies mate. Not everyone has a pristine level floor.