Thanks for sharing all this, i usually just watch your CF vids for your fastidious templating. i was checking out these companies and products to see what all they're applied to, and got a super deal on knitted kevlar from C.E. and got to skip the issue for the moment as well
What type of spray adhesive and tape are you using, Lindy? I'm looking to try skinning an Asiatic recurve bow with carbon fibre rather than the usual thread binding. I'm just not sure about how to achieve a perfectly straight line with no fraying where it transitions from carbon fibre to the fibre glass limb. This appears to the way to achieve that.
I think I tried Loctite spray adhesive here, but in general I prefer 3M super 77. Standard masking tape is good to control the fraying until the glue dries, then the edges can be cut off.
I had to watch but more importantly read comments as some are questions. I am confused a little about what product you are promoting. The video was informative buy did not start with products you sell and products or materials needed. In short, I am a retired auto tech and have plans to modify a V8 intake made of plastic. It would require multiple compound parts, with sharp edges but on rounded surfaces. It would be similar to placing your hands together, inter-locking your fingers and folding down. I plan to create patterns to each part, draw the weave, cut the product to size but wet the part in steps laying each part touching to appear one piece. Complex? Yes. I intend to wet it out completely, vacuum bag the part, but the final finish is a two part clear coat. Explain what I missed as the end results on your simpler pattern is some what my goal. This is for ascetics only, not so much for strength. I have edges to create a mechanical bond between the parts. Thoughts?
This was a comparison of commercially stabilized fabrics vs spray adhesive to help keep the weave in place. None of these options works as well as pre preg but they all help slow the fraying to some extent. You may want to experiment with wetting out between thick plastic sheets then cutting the shapes and placing. Not sure if that would be better.
Can these types of carbon fiber be used for skinning pieces? How well would they bend around curves when doing wet lay up? Or would you have to vacuum bag it to get it to hold it's shape?
Thickness of the finished sheet depends on the weight and weave type of the carbon fiber cloth and the pressure under which it's cured. As a general guideline I tend to get around 0.3mm per layer of a typical 3k 2x2 twill cured under vacuum. Hope that answers your question.
I got some Carbon Fiber from ebay and it came in the postal envelope. It caused loose parts in fabric on random places on plane and where it was folded (inconsistent holes in fabric). Is some easy way how to repair it so it can be used for finishing? In state it comes it is good just for reinforcement, but for finishing it looks ugly. I was thinking about stretching it to straighten fibers and make them close loose places on fabric. But I don't know how :-(
Been using CE for couple years. They are great. I love the serrated sissors from them. You should try Mavcoat release agent. So with the spray can u stabilize the piece yourself. velosRus dotcom
Right... over $100 per yard vs. 20-30 bucks per yard plus resin that will make a ton of parts. You only get the benefits of prepreg if you're using an autoclave to compress the fibers flat, otherwise you end up with holes in your finish. Nothing beats infusion for perfect looking cf parts, both visually and for strength.
you're becoming the go-to channel for everything CF!
Awesome video!I am starting to do some projects now in carbon fiber and seen this video in the search.Very detailed and informative❤️👍
I’m a big R&D (Research & Develop) guy. Great video. Very useful information. Need more videos like this. Thanks.
Very informative! I havent seen anyone else do a video like this
Waow just right in time when i want to informe my self about carbon and how expensive and complicated it is to work with :-) Thanks for sharing :-)
Nice concise explanation. Thanks
Thanks for sharing all this, i usually just watch your CF vids for your fastidious templating. i was checking out these companies and products to see what all they're applied to, and got a super deal on knitted kevlar from C.E. and got to skip the issue for the moment as well
Love the herringbone biaxial carbon
Hi! What adhesive spray are you using?
Where did you get the Mylar from? Thickness?
What type of spray adhesive and tape are you using, Lindy? I'm looking to try skinning an Asiatic recurve bow with carbon fibre rather than the usual thread binding. I'm just not sure about how to achieve a perfectly straight line with no fraying where it transitions from carbon fibre to the fibre glass limb. This appears to the way to achieve that.
I think I tried Loctite spray adhesive here, but in general I prefer 3M super 77. Standard masking tape is good to control the fraying until the glue dries, then the edges can be cut off.
Nicely done, thanks for sharing your skills.
I'm learning a lot. Thank you.
Wow. That was thorough... thanks!
You're welcome.
how did you call your Knives i looking for that one
I had to watch but more importantly read comments as some are questions. I am confused a little about what product you are promoting. The video was informative buy did not start with products you sell and products or materials needed. In short, I am a retired auto tech and have plans to modify a V8 intake made of plastic. It would require multiple compound parts, with sharp edges but on rounded surfaces. It would be similar to placing your hands together, inter-locking your fingers and folding down. I plan to create patterns to each part, draw the weave, cut the product to size but wet the part in steps laying each part touching to appear one piece. Complex? Yes. I intend to wet it out completely, vacuum bag the part, but the final finish is a two part clear coat.
Explain what I missed as the end results on your simpler pattern is some what my goal. This is for ascetics only, not so much for strength. I have edges to create a mechanical bond between the parts. Thoughts?
This was a comparison of commercially stabilized fabrics vs spray adhesive to help keep the weave in place. None of these options works as well as pre preg but they all help slow the fraying to some extent. You may want to experiment with wetting out between thick plastic sheets then cutting the shapes and placing. Not sure if that would be better.
Спасибо большое, отличный тест!
it's not just easier to cut a square and then cut it in 4 triangles, like this you get a perfect pattern match??
Can these types of carbon fiber be used for skinning pieces? How well would they bend around curves when doing wet lay up? Or would you have to vacuum bag it to get it to hold it's shape?
Pre-stabilized conforms less well than non-stabilized.
Thank you so much, very informative.
But where can I get sparky adhesive pls? Thks!
Standard spray adhesive, find it just about anywhere. Super 77 is good.
Have you tried this with pre-preg cf? I think thats often a better solution for this?
Oh I'm sure it is, but I don't have a setup for curing prepreg.
@@LindyDesignLab thats a good point. Not everyone has a curing oven and or autoclave.
Hi, thanks for the video very interesting! Cheers, Doug
good idea
What was yhe spray adhesive you used?
Super 77
Thanks for the vid. Liked and shared.
You're welcome.
Oh you've got a vacuum pump now. Does that work on your vacformer too?
It will need the right connector first.
Do you happen to know how think the carbon fiber is??? Thank you!!!
Thickness of the finished sheet depends on the weight and weave type of the carbon fiber cloth and the pressure under which it's cured. As a general guideline I tend to get around 0.3mm per layer of a typical 3k 2x2 twill cured under vacuum. Hope that answers your question.
@@LindyDesignLab yes thank you!!!
I got some Carbon Fiber from ebay and it came in the postal envelope. It caused loose parts in fabric on random places on plane and where it was folded (inconsistent holes in fabric). Is some easy way how to repair it so it can be used for finishing? In state it comes it is good just for reinforcement, but for finishing it looks ugly. I was thinking about stretching it to straighten fibers and make them close loose places on fabric. But I don't know how :-(
You may be able to get it straightened out, depending on the extent of the damage. This video might help ua-cam.com/video/vwB3fms4AZY/v-deo.html
@@LindyDesignLab thank you (I was hoping that you will show me how to do it :-) )
Where can I find the roller cutter?
The one used here is from Amazon amzn.to/2UrhwOJ but any rotary cutter will do as long as the blade is sharp.
Where did you get the profinish?
Composite Envisions.
Lindy Design Lab thanks. One last question, where did you get the cutter from.
@@SandeepSingh-43 The rotary cutting set from Amazon is linked in the description, but any one with a fresh blade will work.
Is an Autoclave required?
No
Looks like Composite Envisions dropped all ProFinish? bad link
Hmm, I suppose they are switching everything over to web lock since that is their proprietary version.
wow
there's so many pin hole..
Been using CE for couple years. They are great. I love the serrated sissors from them. You should try Mavcoat release agent. So with the spray can u stabilize the piece yourself.
velosRus dotcom
..spray..
damn skillllllllllsssssssssssssssss
Lol just spray a fine mist of restoliem lacquer in it
this is why everyone uses prepreg :D
Right... over $100 per yard vs. 20-30 bucks per yard plus resin that will make a ton of parts. You only get the benefits of prepreg if you're using an autoclave to compress the fibers flat, otherwise you end up with holes in your finish. Nothing beats infusion for perfect looking cf parts, both visually and for strength.
I only dream about prepreg.
i love you this is amazing info you just sorted my project right out. tidy. xx