Shouldn’t the bedrock surface be leveled wherever a pier is going to be poured? If those rebar ever rust they will shear off. Idk…. It just seems like a bad idea for a pier to have an angled base.
consider using core drill (ex; 2.5 " dia); drill down oc, 3x (follow sono dia per spec) below back angle offset then rebob down that depth plus 6". Then radiate out with core drill 120 deg, step up to 1.5x depth to secondary step repeat same with ea oc. Set sono and bingo... Don't forget to abide by max height spec for given sono or other tube form.
Nice work, this method really works well and I used it on a 50 year old cabin that I rescued. The original owner had built the cabin on piers on a slope and all the piers had tipped over so it looked like the whole cabin was sliding down the hill. I removed the piers one by one, drilling 3 holes into the bedrock, inserting in each hole a length of epoxy coated rebar and then placing a Sonotube over the rebar and poured in the cement. I supported each pier position with a temporary pier beside it until the cement cured and then leveled out the cabin using the new pier. I subsequently drywalled the entire interior of the cabin and I can report that 3 years later the drywall is still intact and there has been no shifting or tipping of the piers.
Great video!!! I have a similar sloped situation with a deck I'd like to build. Curious if you could cut into the rock to create a flat surface, then drill a hole for a saddle where the 6x6 post would be attached. The deck posts will be about 10ft high.
Thanks Matt for the Video. When you went Down that Hill behind the House my Butt Cheeks tighten up. Matt have you thought of using Epoxy for the Steel Rods going in the Bedrock? Or your Code Don’t Call for it? Did You see Jason bike Fall?
It's rebar. If you have to hammer it in the whole way it's as good as epoxy. Epoxy works where you drill a 1/2" hole to stab #4 bar in concrete, but it's pretty useless when you go from a slip fit to an interference fit
First off, great job. I never thought about the bedrock issue but this was "easier" than I thought you would have had to do. Was this to ICC code? Also, for future, do you think you're going to rent a surveyor level? Seems like your tolerances for a job like this are....tight.
How much does this usually cost? As in, how much more this type of foundation over a flat area? I ask because im considering buying land that has a crazy slope on it
Do you guys do any of the framing on that foundation? Nice job man. I know whats involved there and you did it right. Well done. My legs hurt just watching you work on that slope lol
Great video! But would you also tell us what local codes call for re: thickness and depth of rebar, type of expoxy, circumference, height and type of concrete required for the pillars, and max spacing between each? Would be immensely helpful to know. Thanks!
There's no way to know when the machine has had to much until you take it there. Once you've tipped one over you get a good feel for where it'll actually tip. The bucket was out, and the farthest you can fall is into the bucket. When it hits you use it to walk the machine down and then stabilize.
@@leftyeh6495 actually now that I think about it, I run a little bigger excavators without the tilt bucket so it’s important to get myself level before I did.
Shouldn’t the bedrock surface be leveled wherever a pier is going to be poured? If those rebar ever rust they will shear off. Idk…. It just seems like a bad idea for a pier to have an angled base.
consider using core drill (ex; 2.5 " dia); drill down oc, 3x (follow sono dia per spec) below back angle offset then rebob down that depth plus 6". Then radiate out with core drill 120 deg, step up to 1.5x depth to secondary step repeat same with ea oc. Set sono and bingo... Don't forget to abide by max height spec for given sono or other tube form.
This was some amazing work and talent. Love watching you, Matt, winter and summer!! Nice to see quality work being done.
Loving these videos as much as snowmobile ones, keep up the good work.
Thanks, will do!
Very cool to see this type of construction work Matt.
Can't wait to learn some more.
Thanks 👍
Nice work, this method really works well and I used it on a 50 year old cabin that I rescued.
The original owner had built the cabin on piers on a slope and all the piers had tipped over so it looked like the whole cabin was sliding down the hill. I removed the piers one by one, drilling 3 holes into the bedrock, inserting in each hole a length of epoxy coated rebar and then placing a Sonotube over the rebar and poured in the cement.
I supported each pier position with a temporary pier beside it until the cement cured and then leveled out the cabin using the new pier. I subsequently drywalled the entire interior of the cabin and I can report that 3 years later the drywall is still intact and there has been no shifting or tipping of the piers.
3fetty- and now u smoke dope there
Wish you lived around Western PA could use your help!
@@eddypridemore6649 smke fetty !
Thanks for this one. I'm doing a bunkie myself on piers with a similar slope/bedrock situation, so I found this super helpful. Cheers!
Awesome!
Thank you. I wasnt sure what to do once i hit a huge rock on a slope, but sounds like i can pier into it. Very helpful.
Gotta love the Ontario bedrock
Great video!!! I have a similar sloped situation with a deck I'd like to build. Curious if you could cut into the rock to create a flat surface, then drill a hole for a saddle where the 6x6 post would be attached. The deck posts will be about 10ft high.
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the video.
Great job bro 👍🏾 and thank you for sharing your experience 🎉
These videos are on point. hopefully more to come.
Matt even if there are 'other' videos of a similar nature, for me at least, it is the creator and the subject material not just the subject.
Thanks Matt for the Video. When you went Down that Hill behind the House my Butt Cheeks tighten up. Matt have you thought of using Epoxy for the Steel Rods going in the Bedrock? Or your Code Don’t Call for it? Did You see Jason bike Fall?
It's rebar. If you have to hammer it in the whole way it's as good as epoxy.
Epoxy works where you drill a 1/2" hole to stab #4 bar in concrete, but it's pretty useless when you go from a slip fit to an interference fit
cool concept love it learned lots thanks
I make concrete videos on this platform but I must say your videos are top notch compared to mine lol good work
First off, great job. I never thought about the bedrock issue but this was "easier" than I thought you would have had to do. Was this to ICC code? Also, for future, do you think you're going to rent a surveyor level? Seems like your tolerances for a job like this are....tight.
How much does this usually cost? As in, how much more this type of foundation over a flat area? I ask because im considering buying land that has a crazy slope on it
What does this cost?
Do you guys do any of the framing on that foundation? Nice job man. I know whats involved there and you did it right. Well done. My legs hurt just watching you work on that slope lol
Do you like the CAT or the Deere better out of the zero tail swing machines you guys have?
WELL DONE AS USUAL
Thanks, this was very helpful
Great video! But would you also tell us what local codes call for re: thickness and depth of rebar, type of expoxy, circumference, height and type of concrete required for the pillars, and max spacing between each? Would be immensely helpful to know. Thanks!
I think using column block and filling them with concrete as you go would have been easier than using the sonatube.
Thx bro 😎
Way to go Fred, Yaba daba doo.
Did you flatten bedrock at pier's footer? Or just pinned with rebar and poured right on the slope?
It looks like they pinned and poured on the slope. I wonder if that rock is porous and hence the rebar could rust over time.
Question, Would you ever bury a lot of brush and add a 3 foot clay cap to build up land?
Not on my property aha
make a follow up video!
Awesomeness!
Very interesting
bro i would be pissing my pants doing that lol 😆
aha nothin to it
Hey fan of your sled videos. My cottage is next door to this site. Small world. Maybe you can sign my sleds ;) backcountry and a renegade
Haha no way. One of our employees is 2 doors down from here. Haha if you want!
@@freeriderearthworks8889 Justin? Even smaller world if so.
Why would people call this a 90% slope? What happened to degrees?
You know when you see a sign on the side of the road that says “steep grade ahead. 9%”
It’s percent not degrees.
No black flys out there yet !
Dude! On the slopes why don’t you use the blade to level and stabilize the machine? I had 2 heart attacks 🤣
There's no way to know when the machine has had to much until you take it there. Once you've tipped one over you get a good feel for where it'll actually tip.
The bucket was out, and the farthest you can fall is into the bucket. When it hits you use it to walk the machine down and then stabilize.
I never use it unless I really need it lol it makes the machine more tippy when you're over the side
@@leftyeh6495 I’m an operator, I know how it works. Just saying, it’s much more efficient to dig with a machine that’s not moving around.
@@leftyeh6495 actually now that I think about it, I run a little bigger excavators without the tilt bucket so it’s important to get myself level before I did.
I do not envy you the horse, deer and black flies.
They only occur where there's dead things. Quit burying your hookers next to the house!
👍
if that ex tipped for any reason that house would be smashed in @2:25. Next time at least put the blade on the ground
🤣🤣
"90%" slope?😂😂😂😂
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