I knew all of this already, but the info is so well-presented, I've favorited the video to show other people who're learning, because it explains so well how guitars work.
I thought my Ibanez had a nice tone but was a bit hard to play. Turns out both sides were about 0.5mm too high. Now I have the action adjusted and intonated. Hard to express the joy in having a better instrument all of a sudden. This video was of good help.
Trem unit in the video is a "Lo-Pro Edge", instructions same for the "Edge" in case anyone was confused why their Edge looks different. String stopper bolts are in a slightly different place is all
Some tips for changing strings on a floating bridge - you can change one string at a time, or use something to block the bridge. I use a teaspoon wrapped with tape, you can also use a trem stopper. - insert the strings into the machine heads, cut the strings at or 1/2 inch above the fine tuners - stretch & tune a lot of times until the tuning os already stable - make sure the bridge plate is parallel to the body - make your adjustments (intonation, action, neck relief) before locking the nut
this was super helpful working on a customers guitar. did anyone else notice how high the action is on the guitar in the end though? lol just funny - but this was a very concise video, thanks Ibanez
Cool instruction video and much needed. Request for 7 string guitars, please make 25inch scale 7 string guitars with medium size frets. 25.5 is too long for comfortable playing (for the shoulder, neck and wrist) and jumbo frets are too high and too wide. The medium frets which are narrower will compensate the space loss of the shorter scale neck. And the lower height of the medium frets give the neck a slimmer feel and more feel with the guitar neck. Also a 15 inch radius neck on a 7 string guitar makes the neck feel more like a 6 string. The more flat a radius is the wider the neck feels especially with jumbo necks.
Thanks a lot. I have the Ibanez Pia, and the angle of the tremolo was throwing me off. You made me realize it's okay if the tremolo is a little higher than specified. Plays like a dream. Now I just gotta learn how to play 😂
I love my Lo-Pro Edge. Its same idea as the Floyd of course, but it feels so much better to me at least and is more comfortable for my hand for muting.
I used to cut the strings as advised in the video and they were constantly torn to floyd. I started to put it the other way around, cutting the core of the string without a braid and now the strings break very rarely.
Awesome video. Previous videos i've seen about floating bridges were really long and kinda made the whole process seem as something technical and difficult. This video made it easy. Btw i heard that when adjusting the action one should losen the strings and even remove the springs to avoid damaging the blade. Would like to know what does Ibanez think about it. It kinda makes sense but at the same time you don't adjust the action often, so maybe it's too much precaution. Regardless i am so satisfied with the way my Ibanez RG550 is playing. Ibanez are the samurai of the guitar world, precise and humble.
Please note that the EJK1000 was used incorrectly on this video. On Lo-Pros and Edge Pros, USE THE LOWER THREADED HOLE ON THE SADDLE HOOK. Using the EJK1000 similar to how it was used in the video will likely scratch your finish.
I own the EJK1000 and have not been able to intonate my RG with it to save my life. I'll be changing strings soon, so I will be trying to use it once again.
I have an old RG470 and one of the springs fell off when I did a slight bar dive. I got it put back on but I am wondering if they need to be replaced. I have it setup in E standard and had a luthier set it up for me and he's maintained the guitar for me ever since.
For what reason? Zps is not a guarantee of stability. Experienced guitar players know it. Edge trems are used in conjunction with systems like tremsetters, it’s not an option , it’s necessity.
@@guitarkiller86 it's for making sure the bridge doesn't get whacked out of tune after you break a string or drop the tuning. It also keeps the flutter going unlike the Tremmory for example, not sure about the Hipshot Tremsetter though
@@Валерій-ъ3ы The edge and lo pro edge are way more comfortable. The fine tuners don't get in your way and the saddles and nicely rounded. Plus the pop in trem arm is far superior to the screw in arm of the OFR. Plus plus the better Japanese manufacturing by Gotoh.
NEVER cut the ball ends !! insert the strings into the machine head in and give 1 inch past the bridge fine tuner, cut the string there and secure with the insert. This is how Joe Satriani and millions of guitarist change strings. It prevents you from piercing your finger when cleaning the neck or your eye. Change the sustain block to the FU Tone brass block and titanium inserts - it will sound so so much better.
I also insert the strings in the machine head. Saves the hassle of cutting the strings twice. As for the brass block change, theres minimal sound difference.
sustain block and brass stuff is nothing but a gimmick, it changes the sound, doesnt mean is better, some people may think is better or like it more, is not better and it doesnt really add more sustain, there is a reason why Vai, satriani and many other do not use this nonsense, do you see any brass blocks during their guitar setup interviews? they have regular springs and blocks, putting brass blocks changes the tone which many will not like they clearly do not, but also it may change your setup
Don't restring like it says thread the ball end through the tuner its alot better and it looks cool. And DONT take off all the strings at once do it ine by one
I do not use the cutter for the tuners. just twisting string over the shaft clockwise and counterclockwise until it breaks - no sharp edges in the end and looks more neatly
I string mine backwards using the ball end as a stop at the tuner. Then I cut the excess a few inches past where it will lock into the bridge. This has the advantage of acting like a locking tuner would at the tuner. Also, it is kid-safe because there are no sharp string ends at all for a child to poke their finger. Also, I'm only cutting the string once instead of twice. I never have to worry about a string slipping because it is physically impossible for the string to slip. That means I have better tuning stability. I simply cannot understand why Ibanez didn't use this method in their tutorial. It makes sense and has no disadvantages at all. Only positives. Plus, players such as Steve Vai and many others has been doing this for decades.
Does removing the towel from underneath of floyd rose before putting strings on lead to potential injury? That's what I did and now one side of it got lower than the other one
I have an early 2000 RG550 with Edge bridge that I bought new. Is posible that came without the stud lock function? The 1,5mm hexed in there is doing nothing
I would like to know the correct angle / orientation of the bridge to the body as everyone keeps saying the base plate should be parallel to the body but the lo-pro edge trem has an interesting shape..
For some reason the locking bolts inside stud screw on my RG2027XL won't screw or unscrew while guitar in tune. So I can't adjust action height. Also the whole bridge is angled and that is honestly stupid design choice unlike original floyd rose which is flat and allows to easily see when bridge is parallel to the body. So far the experience was a big pain in the butt. I have 25 y.o. ESP KH-2 which is WAY easier to handle on this matter. Now considering to just swap this fancy lo-pro stuff to regular flat floyd.
Hi, I have old RG350dx with similar trem as video. The guitar goes flat when I dive on trem and doesn’t come back to pitch. It goes sharp when I pull on trem and doesn’t go back to pitch. I checked the locking nut there is no problem there. Strings lock perfectly and nut doesn’t move. What can be done? Should I replace the bridge or springs?
@@iloveitall knife edges aren't impervious to wear, a quick Google search will show you this. Many different types of bridges, which use different types of materials.. some are harder than others. But loosening the strings & springs before adjusting action will certainly help preserve the knife edges.
@@chrispile3878 I highly doubt that the knife edges on Ibanez tremolo bridges are immune to wear, again just Google it. The knife edges on my 20-year-old Edge Pro are slightly worn, and that's to be expected, slight wear and tear over time from proper use.
I was thinking the same, although how is one really to 100% safely adjust these bolts? Even if you loosen the string tension the springs are still pulling on the trem. Should you remove the whole unit and adjust the bolts without the trem?
When I lower the tremolo the tension of the strings are streached so much that I can't play the string ? The action is so low it's leans against the neck. I have 3 springs on it, it might be the issue ? Or do I loosen the springs ? Should the tremolo be parrelel to the body ?
I come from a floyd rose. Now, having a lo pro edge I don’t know how it should be set up. The video says parallell to the body like a floyd but in the video it cleary is at an angle.
Don't adjust the bridge height without removing springs on the back. You will need to tune the guitar several times, but this way you won't damage the knife edges on the Bridge. This is an official warning from Floyd Rose, and Ibanez, this is what they tell customers to do. He adjusts the height in the video when there is a tension from springs, which is wrong.
Ibanez you can do much better than this: Want a much easier life? Change, stretch and retune 1 string at a time so the bridge is still floating under tension. Don't cut off the ball end on the new string, but run the string through the tuning peg in reverse so the ball end is snug against the post. Pull the string hand tight and cut it off a few mm past the *back* of the saddle it's due to go into. Poke the end into the saddle and nip it up. Tune the string. Feel smug. Also if the guitar is old it's going to be a struggle to loosen the locking studs inside the trem posts with the puny 1.5mm allen key. Without detuning the guitar, remove the trem springs so the trem is loose. Using the full size (4mm???) key back the trem post out 1/4 of a turn. This will disengage the locking stud which you can then loosen or tighten easily with the 1.5mm key after setting the post height. I would also remove the trem springs before adjusting action height by turning the posts. Once you get familiar with doing it you can remove and replace the springs in about a minute, so it's hardly a drag on your time, and is much better than adjusting the posts under full tension. Stick a drop of 3 in 1 oil on each knife adge whilst you're at it. When you put the springs back on the guitar will still be pretty much in tune. If you've adjusted the action height then it will be less in tune, but still pretty close. If you're not messing with the action height and are just changing pickups or something then the guitar will likely still be perfectly in tune when you put the springs back. Love the Edge trem, it's the greatest 😍. Another tip: If your trem is not quite centred in the rout, or your strings aren't centred on the fretboard, remove the trem, get a small pair of pliers, grab the meatiest part of the curved knfe edge (not the straight one) and move it a little bit in the direction you need to centre your strings on the board.
oil is nonsense, there is zero proof that putting oil or chap stick on hardened knife edges does anything such as improving the life or tuning stability, is not recommended by the manufacturer either
@@naegleriafowleri2230 Is there any proof that it *doesn't* help? A drop of oil where there metal-on-metal contact (and free movement is desired) seems sensible to me.
It sickens me that Ibanez decided to put the Edge Zero in the Left handed J.Custom, I would consider ordering one if it had the edge / lo-pro edge instead. Also release a baritone like the RGIB21 (28" scale min) in left handed. there are woefully too little options for lefties from Ibanez. if the M80M were available left handed, I'd have bought one years ago.
1:24 Whenever I put a guitar cloth to secure the bridge, the bridge mostly ends up popping out on one side of the knife edges. When this happens I have to remove the whole bridge and re-install it. I'm not sure what causes this but it's frustrating to say the least. I mostly change strings without putting anything/cloth under the bridge.
@@ZzzzzzzxxxzzzYZ4 thanks for the insight. Is there a way to ensure perfect balance for these? Where I live I have to be proficient in most guitar setup skills as guitar techs and luthiers are rare.
@@johnmturi4155 I do it by sight. making sure the claw screws are equal and the springs themselves look to have the same amount of expansion (i.e. stretched out). string tension might make a difference for you. I use .009 - .042 gauge.
I think I’ve been adjusting my Trem incorrectly this whole time. I thought I had to align the top side of the trem with the body and NOT the bottom. I’m seeing here and heard on another video that I should align with the bottom.
it's all about keeping the price point similar over the years in order to keep those guitars at the same price or close to it, they have to cut costs somewhere. But the good news is that Floyd and Gotohs are a perfect drop in replacement.
@@ryant3600 I don't really think cost cutting is a good excuse on the HP series for example since there are cheaper models that still have the Edge Zero 2, and it would be better to have it 50-100$ more without the need to replace any parts, but at least parts are easy to replace :)
@@Mr.Goldbar HP series? you talking like the RGA 42HP ? If so, it's a thousand dollars but here's the thing if they put a zero 2 on it they'd charge around 1200 they can't do that for that guitar because now you're surpassing the Japanese made RG 550's and you're creeping into the Premium price points. So what they're doing w/ those is giving you a Indonesian made RGA w/ after market pups, quilted top (as far as the ones I've seen)), Roasted maple neck and coil tap which justifies the price tag even w/ the DL trem. Cause like I said if they offered all that w/ a zero might as well just label it a premium and charge more. So what they're doing it making you choose, roasted maple neck, after market pups, beautiful top and RGA body or choose the Japanese 550 with the edge trem, no roasted neck, regular paint job and stock pups for the same price. I choose the RG 570 (when they were available, they only made a small # of them) cause I always upgrade my pups and change them out depending on what I want that particular guitar for, but you can't beat the edge trem. Where as the RGA42JP you get a lot of great upgrades and it's an easy thing to throw a 120 dollar Gotoh Trem in it. If that all makes sense
@@ryant3600 wouldn't say a 200$ premium is necessarily a realistic amount for a Zero 2, they can probably put a Zero 2 without the ZPS for a 50$ premium, maybe 100 at max, 100-150 with the ZPS. Remember the Zero 2 is still a Chinese made bridge and not necessarily a high end part, compared to the original Edge or the original Zero, that's how they can put the Zero 2 in guitars that are even cheaper than the HPs (especially doesn't make sense that you go up in price and get a worse bridge). I'd say a slight price increase in favor of a better bridge is a good call, since the build quality of these Indo Ibanez guitars is already really good
DO NOT adjust the bridge height on 0/neutral position or you will DESTROY your studs and knife edge. Use the whammy bar to dive slightly, hold and do the adjustment, then return it to the neutral position. This will avoid creating "cuts" on the studs and keep perfect tuning for a longer lifespan
Genuine question: How does this help with avoiding wear on the studs? Don't you simply exchange string tension for spring tension and have the knife edges grind against the studs at a slight angle?
@@Augustus222 yes it does, but think of using a razorblade to shave, you've got to use a diagonal angle and up/downwards movement in order to work, if you use a horizontal angle and a sideways movement, you get a instant cut (just as if the knife edge is at 0 position and the studs is moving, its gonna get a cut and soon the 0 position wont be as stable)
You're not going to destroy the knife edges, those are harder than the post. You might damage the post, but those are replaceable so not the end of the world. Rich at Ibanezrules says it doesn't matter either way and won't cause damage. Seems like more of an old wives tale than anything else.
You mention twice that the string holder blocks are easy to lose. Do you sell them separately? Is there a locking tremolo that doesn't has this design flaw?
ESL I would suspect....ball ends up top for sure, this is kinda cheese for a year ago.A cloth as a tremolo block lol. Make sure you don't lose any parts....lmfao oh stop....can't...breath.....
Kind of expected you of all people would have an in depth description.. maybe even from a real person instead of an AI. You guys stay under the 40$ budget?
Most of the time you only have to go through this whole procedure once in a while. I usually do a once a year (or twice if I'm playing a lot on one guitar) to go through all this. Once you get the springs, intonation, and action set, then just change strings one at a time. You'll avoid all of these steps because the spring tension stays intact, so the bridge stays in the same position. As long as you use the same string gauges and tuning, changing strings is a breeze.
This Ibanez video puts all the so called “experts video” to shame. Clear concise, well displayed and professional production.
I knew all of this already, but the info is so well-presented, I've favorited the video to show other people who're learning, because it explains so well how guitars work.
Thank you. I didn't knew how much I need a HT bridge in my life
I thought my Ibanez had a nice tone but was a bit hard to play. Turns out both sides were about 0.5mm too high. Now I have the action adjusted and intonated. Hard to express the joy in having a better instrument all of a sudden. This video was of good help.
Trem unit in the video is a "Lo-Pro Edge", instructions same for the "Edge" in case anyone was confused why their Edge looks different. String stopper bolts are in a slightly different place is all
Some tips for changing strings on a floating bridge
- you can change one string at a time, or use something to block the bridge. I use a teaspoon wrapped with tape, you can also use a trem stopper.
- insert the strings into the machine heads, cut the strings at or 1/2 inch above the fine tuners
- stretch & tune a lot of times until the tuning os already stable
- make sure the bridge plate is parallel to the body
- make your adjustments (intonation, action, neck relief) before locking the nut
Edge Lo Pro is one of the best ibanez bridge, staying in tune since 1999 in my JEM7DBK
Indeed... have it on my 2001 JS-1000BTB, and can't be happier!
This video is a nice way to unwind after a stressful gig.
How It’s Made vibes. Very clear, nice video!
this was super helpful working on a customers guitar. did anyone else notice how high the action is on the guitar in the end though? lol just funny - but this was a very concise video, thanks Ibanez
i'm still use my ibanez RG570 japan 1992 with Lo-Pro-Edge...i put ibz/usa F2 pickups n its awesome...tradisional sound in 80's/90's...
Cool instruction video and much needed.
Request for 7 string guitars, please make 25inch scale 7 string guitars with medium size frets. 25.5 is too long for comfortable playing (for the shoulder, neck and wrist) and jumbo frets are too high and too wide. The medium frets which are narrower will compensate the space loss of the shorter scale neck. And the lower height of the medium frets give the neck a slimmer feel and more feel with the guitar neck. Also a 15 inch radius neck on a 7 string guitar makes the neck feel more like a 6 string. The more flat a radius is the wider the neck feels especially with jumbo necks.
A masterfully made instructional video. Thank you!
Thanks a lot. I have the Ibanez Pia, and the angle of the tremolo was throwing me off. You made me realize it's okay if the tremolo is a little higher than specified. Plays like a dream. Now I just gotta learn how to play 😂
I love my Lo-Pro Edge. Its same idea as the Floyd of course, but it feels so much better to me at least and is more comfortable for my hand for muting.
I've been putting the ball ends up top for yrs now.
It makes no difference to tone and makes for quicker tuning before locking the nut👍🏻👍🏻
I used to cut the strings as advised in the video and they were constantly torn to floyd. I started to put it the other way around, cutting the core of the string without a braid and now the strings break very rarely.
I started doing this out of nowhere and found it works well. No more crushed winding and no slippage
in adjusting the action on the Lo-Pro Edge, heard you should always remove tension from the strings.. or you might dull the blade edges.
Just do a light pull with the whammy bar, that helps
Very good guide! Absolutely perfect.
Even with half an inch of action at the end ?
Thank you for the info... Hopefully next time it will be focused on Edge Zero ll only... Thank you sir! 🙏🏼🎸🍻
Awesome video. Previous videos i've seen about floating bridges were really long and kinda made the whole process seem as something technical and difficult. This video made it easy.
Btw i heard that when adjusting the action one should losen the strings and even remove the springs to avoid damaging the blade. Would like to know what does Ibanez think about it. It kinda makes sense but at the same time you don't adjust the action often, so maybe it's too much precaution.
Regardless i am so satisfied with the way my Ibanez RG550 is playing.
Ibanez are the samurai of the guitar world, precise and humble.
ロック式ブリッジはどうしても面倒で買わずにいるので、ロック式じゃないトレモロの商品がもっと増えてほしいです。
Dang, just 1 hour ago, I owned one back in 2006 and no UA-cam guide back then...
Please note that the EJK1000 was used incorrectly on this video. On Lo-Pros and Edge Pros, USE THE LOWER THREADED HOLE ON THE SADDLE HOOK.
Using the EJK1000 similar to how it was used in the video will likely scratch your finish.
I own the EJK1000 and have not been able to intonate my RG with it to save my life. I'll be changing strings soon, so I will be trying to use it once again.
does the EJK1000 work for edge zero 2s as well?
I have an old RG470 and one of the springs fell off when I did a slight bar dive. I got it put back on but I am wondering if they need to be replaced. I have it setup in E standard and had a luthier set it up for me and he's maintained the guitar for me ever since.
one thing when tuning is go from 6 to 1 to 5 to 2 to 4 to 3 to balance the tension of the bridge
This info is fantastic.
This video reminds me of the old Kirby vacuum instructional DVDs 😂
Great video
Have you guys ever considered combining the Lo-Pro Edge with the Zero Point System?
I wish it was a thing!
For what reason? Zps is not a guarantee of stability. Experienced guitar players know it. Edge trems are used in conjunction with systems like tremsetters, it’s not an option , it’s necessity.
@@guitarkiller86 it's for making sure the bridge doesn't get whacked out of tune after you break a string or drop the tuning. It also keeps the flutter going unlike the Tremmory for example, not sure about the Hipshot Tremsetter though
The Lo-Pro Edge puts all other locking tremolos to shame. The Original Floyd seems barbaric in comparison tbh
And why is it better than Original Floyd Rose?🙂
True!
@@Валерій-ъ3ы Because the Ibanez design is more refined, and their manufacturing process is more exact.
@@Валерій-ъ3ы The edge and lo pro edge are way more comfortable. The fine tuners don't get in your way and the saddles and nicely rounded. Plus the pop in trem arm is far superior to the screw in arm of the OFR. Plus plus the better Japanese manufacturing by Gotoh.
Go-tho is the best.
Instructions for rg565 says to restring one by one. To prevent neck tension
NEVER cut the ball ends !! insert the strings into the machine head in and give 1 inch past the bridge fine tuner, cut the string there and secure with the insert. This is how Joe Satriani and millions of guitarist change strings. It prevents you from piercing your finger when cleaning the neck or your eye. Change the sustain block to the FU Tone brass block and titanium inserts - it will sound so so much better.
I also insert the strings in the machine head. Saves the hassle of cutting the strings twice.
As for the brass block change, theres minimal sound difference.
sustain block and brass stuff is nothing but a gimmick, it changes the sound, doesnt mean is better, some people may think is better or like it more, is not better and it doesnt really add more sustain, there is a reason why Vai, satriani and many other do not use this nonsense, do you see any brass blocks during their guitar setup interviews? they have regular springs and blocks, putting brass blocks changes the tone which many will not like they clearly do not, but also it may change your setup
Don't restring like it says thread the ball end through the tuner its alot better and it looks cool. And DONT take off all the strings at once do it ine by one
LOL at the string height action at the end of the video.
😂 I can see the body's red between the low E and the neck... I can't understand how a big brand can release such an amateurish and innacurate video.
I do not use the cutter for the tuners. just twisting string over the shaft clockwise and counterclockwise until it breaks - no sharp edges in the end and looks more neatly
I string mine backwards using the ball end as a stop at the tuner. Then I cut the excess a few inches past where it will lock into the bridge. This has the advantage of acting like a locking tuner would at the tuner. Also, it is kid-safe because there are no sharp string ends at all for a child to poke their finger. Also, I'm only cutting the string once instead of twice. I never have to worry about a string slipping because it is physically impossible for the string to slip. That means I have better tuning stability. I simply cannot understand why Ibanez didn't use this method in their tutorial. It makes sense and has no disadvantages at all. Only positives. Plus, players such as Steve Vai and many others has been doing this for decades.
Same😊
This guitar is beautiful, what's the model?
Does removing the towel from underneath of floyd rose before putting strings on lead to potential injury? That's what I did and now one side of it got lower than the other one
I have an early 2000 RG550 with Edge bridge that I bought new. Is posible that came without the stud lock function? The 1,5mm hexed in there is doing nothing
I would like to know the correct angle / orientation of the bridge to the body as everyone keeps saying the base plate should be parallel to the body but the lo-pro edge trem has an interesting shape..
For some reason the locking bolts inside stud screw on my RG2027XL won't screw or unscrew while guitar in tune. So I can't adjust action height. Also the whole bridge is angled and that is honestly stupid design choice unlike original floyd rose which is flat and allows to easily see when bridge is parallel to the body. So far the experience was a big pain in the butt. I have 25 y.o. ESP KH-2 which is WAY easier to handle on this matter. Now considering to just swap this fancy lo-pro stuff to regular flat floyd.
Watching you adjust action under tension like that is hurting my soul
It's wrong as hell, I am shocked Ibanez does this on official video :D.
Hi, I have old RG350dx with similar trem as video. The guitar goes flat when I dive on trem and doesn’t come back to pitch. It goes sharp when I pull on trem and doesn’t go back to pitch. I checked the locking nut there is no problem there. Strings lock perfectly and nut doesn’t move. What can be done? Should I replace the bridge or springs?
which of the trems would fit my RG350M-YE without any routing?
it's equipped with the stock Edge III
Do you have the video for setup the Truss Rod?
You shouldn't adjust the bridge height while under string tension, you can damage the knife edges of the bridge..
That is a myth as te knife edges are harder than the bolts. Oil helps.
@@iloveitall knife edges aren't impervious to wear, a quick Google search will show you this. Many different types of bridges, which use different types of materials.. some are harder than others. But loosening the strings & springs before adjusting action will certainly help preserve the knife edges.
@@David.S. We are taking about Ibanez trems only here, but your comment is applicable to other trem systems.
@@chrispile3878 I highly doubt that the knife edges on Ibanez tremolo bridges are immune to wear, again just Google it. The knife edges on my 20-year-old Edge Pro are slightly worn, and that's to be expected, slight wear and tear over time from proper use.
I was thinking the same, although how is one really to 100% safely adjust these bolts? Even if you loosen the string tension the springs are still pulling on the trem. Should you remove the whole unit and adjust the bolts without the trem?
Is it easier than floyd rose? Im considering guitars with trem edge cause.of its comfortability.
When I lower the tremolo the tension of the strings are streached so much that I can't play the string ? The action is so low it's leans against the neck. I have 3 springs on it, it might be the issue ? Or do I loosen the springs ? Should the tremolo be parrelel to the body ?
I come from a floyd rose. Now, having a lo pro edge I don’t know how it should be set up. The video says parallell to the body like a floyd but in the video it cleary is at an angle.
Don't adjust the bridge height without removing springs on the back. You will need to tune the guitar several times, but this way you won't damage the knife edges on the Bridge. This is an official warning from Floyd Rose, and Ibanez, this is what they tell customers to do. He adjusts the height in the video when there is a tension from springs, which is wrong.
if it weren't for the tree of life inlay that thing reminds me of the rg3120 we have among our family
Ibanez you can do much better than this:
Want a much easier life? Change, stretch and retune 1 string at a time so the bridge is still floating under tension. Don't cut off the ball end on the new string, but run the string through the tuning peg in reverse so the ball end is snug against the post. Pull the string hand tight and cut it off a few mm past the *back* of the saddle it's due to go into. Poke the end into the saddle and nip it up. Tune the string. Feel smug.
Also if the guitar is old it's going to be a struggle to loosen the locking studs inside the trem posts with the puny 1.5mm allen key. Without detuning the guitar, remove the trem springs so the trem is loose. Using the full size (4mm???) key back the trem post out 1/4 of a turn. This will disengage the locking stud which you can then loosen or tighten easily with the 1.5mm key after setting the post height.
I would also remove the trem springs before adjusting action height by turning the posts. Once you get familiar with doing it you can remove and replace the springs in about a minute, so it's hardly a drag on your time, and is much better than adjusting the posts under full tension. Stick a drop of 3 in 1 oil on each knife adge whilst you're at it. When you put the springs back on the guitar will still be pretty much in tune. If you've adjusted the action height then it will be less in tune, but still pretty close. If you're not messing with the action height and are just changing pickups or something then the guitar will likely still be perfectly in tune when you put the springs back. Love the Edge trem, it's the greatest 😍.
Another tip: If your trem is not quite centred in the rout, or your strings aren't centred on the fretboard, remove the trem, get a small pair of pliers, grab the meatiest part of the curved knfe edge (not the straight one) and move it a little bit in the direction you need to centre your strings on the board.
oil is nonsense, there is zero proof that putting oil or chap stick on hardened knife edges does anything such as improving the life or tuning stability, is not recommended by the manufacturer either
@@naegleriafowleri2230 Is there any proof that it *doesn't* help? A drop of oil where there metal-on-metal contact (and free movement is desired) seems sensible to me.
@@greengriffmarkit is.
Very helpful 😊
yup thats the guitar you should release lo pro edge stainless frets locking tuners almandite garnet colour
Do you ever need to lube the posts?
Ibanez q trem PLEASE!!!!!!!!!
these are on the RG's?
Good info. And DO NOT take it to Guitar Center. They have no trained guitar setup professionals.
Dude, it's a problem all over the world - big stores have the worst service 😂😂😂 Not only in guitar stuff
is that the lo pro? thought you discontinued that?
It sickens me that Ibanez decided to put the Edge Zero in the Left handed J.Custom, I would consider ordering one if it had the edge / lo-pro edge instead. Also release a baritone like the RGIB21 (28" scale min) in left handed. there are woefully too little options for lefties from Ibanez. if the M80M were available left handed, I'd have bought one years ago.
1:24 Whenever I put a guitar cloth to secure the bridge, the bridge mostly ends up popping out on one side of the knife edges. When this happens I have to remove the whole bridge and re-install it.
I'm not sure what causes this but it's frustrating to say the least. I mostly change strings without putting anything/cloth under the bridge.
You can replace the strings one at a time & your bridge wont pop out anymore.
@@kaskas55thanks for the tip.
Uneven tension on the outer springs.
@@ZzzzzzzxxxzzzYZ4 thanks for the insight. Is there a way to ensure perfect balance for these? Where I live I have to be proficient in most guitar setup skills as guitar techs and luthiers are rare.
@@johnmturi4155 I do it by sight. making sure the claw screws are equal and the springs themselves look to have the same amount of expansion (i.e. stretched out). string tension might make a difference for you. I use .009 - .042 gauge.
I think I’ve been adjusting my Trem incorrectly this whole time. I thought I had to align the top side of the trem with the body and NOT the bottom. I’m seeing here and heard on another video that I should align with the bottom.
speaking of which, you should ditch the Standard DL trem on mid priced guitars and start using the Edge Zero 2 again
it's all about keeping the price point similar over the years in order to keep those guitars at the same price or close to it, they have to cut costs somewhere. But the good news is that Floyd and Gotohs are a perfect drop in replacement.
@@ryant3600 I don't really think cost cutting is a good excuse on the HP series for example since there are cheaper models that still have the Edge Zero 2, and it would be better to have it 50-100$ more without the need to replace any parts, but at least parts are easy to replace :)
@@Mr.Goldbar HP series? you talking like the RGA 42HP ? If so, it's a thousand dollars but here's the thing if they put a zero 2 on it they'd charge around 1200 they can't do that for that guitar because now you're surpassing the Japanese made RG 550's and you're creeping into the Premium price points. So what they're doing w/ those is giving you a Indonesian made RGA w/ after market pups, quilted top (as far as the ones I've seen)), Roasted maple neck and coil tap which justifies the price tag even w/ the DL trem. Cause like I said if they offered all that w/ a zero might as well just label it a premium and charge more. So what they're doing it making you choose, roasted maple neck, after market pups, beautiful top and RGA body or choose the Japanese 550 with the edge trem, no roasted neck, regular paint job and stock pups for the same price. I choose the RG 570 (when they were available, they only made a small # of them) cause I always upgrade my pups and change them out depending on what I want that particular guitar for, but you can't beat the edge trem. Where as the RGA42JP you get a lot of great upgrades and it's an easy thing to throw a 120 dollar Gotoh Trem in it. If that all makes sense
@@ryant3600 wouldn't say a 200$ premium is necessarily a realistic amount for a Zero 2, they can probably put a Zero 2 without the ZPS for a 50$ premium, maybe 100 at max, 100-150 with the ZPS. Remember the Zero 2 is still a Chinese made bridge and not necessarily a high end part, compared to the original Edge or the original Zero, that's how they can put the Zero 2 in guitars that are even cheaper than the HPs (especially doesn't make sense that you go up in price and get a worse bridge).
I'd say a slight price increase in favor of a better bridge is a good call, since the build quality of these Indo Ibanez guitars is already really good
DO NOT adjust the bridge height on 0/neutral position or you will DESTROY your studs and knife edge. Use the whammy bar to dive slightly, hold and do the adjustment, then return it to the neutral position. This will avoid creating "cuts" on the studs and keep perfect tuning for a longer lifespan
Genuine question: How does this help with avoiding wear on the studs? Don't you simply exchange string tension for spring tension and have the knife edges grind against the studs at a slight angle?
@@Augustus222 yes it does, but think of using a razorblade to shave, you've got to use a diagonal angle and up/downwards movement in order to work, if you use a horizontal angle and a sideways movement, you get a instant cut (just as if the knife edge is at 0 position and the studs is moving, its gonna get a cut and soon the 0 position wont be as stable)
You're not going to destroy the knife edges, those are harder than the post. You might damage the post, but those are replaceable so not the end of the world. Rich at Ibanezrules says it doesn't matter either way and won't cause damage. Seems like more of an old wives tale than anything else.
@@higler. Ok, keep doing that while I do my way and have my tremolo system healthy for another 20 years
I tune down then adjust action keeps the pressure off the knife edges
Do you guys still sell the rg920qmz i want to buy one but it's not on your website
Out of production for about 10 years already
You mention twice that the string holder blocks are easy to lose. Do you sell them separately? Is there a locking tremolo that doesn't has this design flaw?
No and and no
I assume this is a new product from Ibanez.
I just gave up! I play .12 in standart tuning, the kept popping out
Never thought of using a towel 🤔 it's time to take off all strings and wipe down frets instead of changing one string at a time
The intonation process on these are cumbersome af.
Ive been telling a lot of Floyd noobs this is how you suppose to restringing the bridge
Is the half inch of action at the end the recommended height ? 😂😂
I bought a prestige RG ahm652 and come with serious factory issues.
Totally disappointed, i don't recommend this brand at all 👎🏻
You did not tell anything about adjusting the trust rod.
who plays with such high action on a J custom?...
Clear as mud. The diagrams don’t match my version of Edge.
ESL I would suspect....ball ends up top for sure, this is kinda cheese for a year ago.A cloth as a tremolo block lol. Make sure you don't lose any parts....lmfao oh stop....can't...breath.....
Have some technology force me to throw away my ibanez rg before thistime 2 year.Thailand
Kind of expected you of all people would have an in depth description.. maybe even from a real person instead of an AI. You guys stay under the 40$ budget?
So complicated 🤨
... for you.
Yes. It takes awhile to do. If you find this to be a pain, buy a hardtail.
Most of the time you only have to go through this whole procedure once in a while. I usually do a once a year (or twice if I'm playing a lot on one guitar) to go through all this. Once you get the springs, intonation, and action set, then just change strings one at a time. You'll avoid all of these steps because the spring tension stays intact, so the bridge stays in the same position. As long as you use the same string gauges and tuning, changing strings is a breeze.