Amazing camera for sure! Great insight on the underwater housing you chose. I look forward to seeing more more videos on how to use the camera while in an underwater housing.
Good choices. Myself I have a R6 with Nauticam housing and I totally agree with your comments about Nauticam housings. It may not be the simples nor cheapest but very comfortable to use.
I exclusively use the canon 8-15mm on my black magic 6k for video and is my go to for underwater stuff, I also use the 16-35mm ii 2.8 but mainly for land becase of the super 35 sensor on the cinema camera is a bit narrow for my liking. Keep it up I’ve known your work way before I was a scuba diver 🙌🏻
Interesting. I currently shoot a 5D iv. I have a passive interest in getting into water shooting using one of my other cameras. Nothing crazy but who knows where this will lead. 2 key questions to which I haven’t been able to find a sane answer to. Maybe you can chime in. Lots of assumptions on my part. First off, what’s the deal with cheap and DIY? On the surface it would seem we could build something relatively functional and safe if we’re dealing with typical snorkelling depths. I assume there’s a threshold starting at 2-5 meters where the tolerance requirements become exponential to the point that buying the battle proven premium gear is the smart choice. Are we ultimately talking about a market where it’s either super cheap and super expensive , or is there a sane middle ground? In other words, what are the gotchas? My other question pertains to the better qualities you mentioned about the r5. Could you touch a bit on the image quality differences you’ve noticed with the r5 vs your previous gear (talking stills). I realize there are a ton of videos that have already covered this but you seem more credible so I’m dying to hear a more honest report on that front. However, I am curious to hear your opinion on the video quality as well, whether we’re talking internal MJPEG or externally recorded via an Atomos. Is it night and day? On the off chance that you read this and reply - thanks a lot. My gut instinct tells me I can probably get away with some kind of used or budget housing around the 300$ mark to fit either the 6D or my m50, but I’m all ears. Cheers The whole diving housing scene is overwhelming me.
Thank you for a great vid!! I came looking for something else, and came across your channel. Question: I have a Nikonos V film camera with a couple lenses. Are there any digital cameras that accept this glass, maybe with an adapter, or am I just barking up the wrong tree?
Great video on your rig! I'm shooting on my Canon R at the moment with a seafrog housing, but the build quality of the housing has been disappointing after 6 months (buttons not working, shutter malfunction) and I'm looking to upgrade. I saw one of your older video when you were using an ikelite housing in Ichetucknee Springs, how do you compare that to a Nauticam? What justified the extra money and physical weight on a metal housing like Nauticam over ikelite? Was the fact that you had to install the lens after inserting the body itself which made the set up slower a dealbreaker? Thanks Jason!
Thanks for checking out the video and for your kind words! I totally get the frustration with the Seafrog housing. I've had similar issues in the past with other brands. To compare, I've used both Ikelite and Nauticam housings, and here’s my take. Ikelite housings are more budget-friendly and lighter, which is great for travel. Plus, the clear polycarbonate lets you see what's going on inside, which is a nice feature. But, I’ve had some reliability issues with the buttons, just like you. And yes, having to install the lens after inserting the camera body can be a bit of a pain, slowing down the setup process. On the other hand, Nauticam housings are on a different level in terms of build quality. The metal construction feels incredibly solid and durable, providing better protection for your camera. The ergonomics are also much better-the buttons and controls are more responsive and intuitively placed, making it easier to operate underwater. Another big plus is the port system, which is much more flexible and allows for a quicker setup without the hassle of installing the lens after the body. Plus, the integrated vacuum and leak detection systems give you peace of mind when diving. Yes, Nauticam housings are significantly more expensive and heavier, but I think the investment is worth it. The reliability and durability of the metal construction mean they can handle the rigors of frequent diving and harsh conditions much better. The improved ergonomics and control placement make the shooting experience much more enjoyable. And those safety features are priceless when you’re dealing with expensive camera gear. The lens installation process with Ikelite was annoying but not a dealbreaker for me. However, Nauticam's user-friendly port system definitely adds to the overall convenience, especially when you're setting up quickly before a dive. If your budget allows, I’d definitely recommend going for a Nauticam housing. It’s an investment that pays off in terms of performance and peace of mind. Hope this helps, and happy diving!
@@CaymanJason I'm glad you have so much experience in different housing solutions! I'm slowly coming to a conclusion that not only should an underwater photographer need to know their gear, they have to know how to fix their gear! Your mention of Ikelite's reliability issue was exactly my concern, the plastic buttons on the clear polycarbonate reminds me of the many troubles I had trying to unjam buttons minutes before a dive. But just for a fair comparison, have you ever had a button/jamming issue on any of the metal cases? Dare I ask another question, my plastic housing is in fact too light (my Tokina 10-17mm isn't that heavy), my housing in fact has a positive buoyancy. I had to resort to attaching stabiliser weights to achieve neutral buoyancy. Did you have the same issue with the Ikelite and does the metal housing naturally achieve a neutral/negative buoyancy? There's so many market solution on floats, but weight system seems to be hard to find. I know adding flashes to the system will definitely bring any buoyant system down, but I'm trying to avoid getting flashes for as long as possible, so I don't feel like I'm dragging a parachute in the ocean and enjoy being more streamline as a freediver (idk if you feel the same). Thanks again for giving me so many tips! The underwater community needs more professionals like yourself who are also good at sharing their experiences! I can't wait for Canon R5 m2 to come out in August and for me to upgrade the entire system!
@@ivanmilochan The sticky button issue is typically a lack of preventative maintenance. After each outing, my camera is submerged in fresh water for a minimum of 24 hours. Additionally, every button that I pressed on the dive is actuated in the freshwater tank. As for buoyancy, I created a lead plate that bolts to the bottom of my rig. Because I'm shooting a 15-35 L with a 9.8-inch port, it's super buoyant. With the custom lead plate, it's only slightly buoyant at the surface. As I'm primarily a freediving photographer, I like to keep the rig slightly positive in the unlikely event we become separated. I'm also looking forward to the r52 release!!! Can't wait!
I have a Sea & Sea Housing on order from Blue Water Photo for my Canon EOS R5. The problem is that it's been on order since October and I have a dive trip coming up this Spring. Maybe I should cancel it and get the Nauticam ?
Hi, Jackson-I think what I said in the video can be a little confusing when it comes to the 8-15L series. My Canon 5D Mark 4 in 4k video was a cropped video so I shoot the lens at 8 to get back to 16:9 aspect ratio. With the R5, I shoot the lens at 15 and only shoot the camera in full frame. I hope this helps
Do you think it would be an added bonus if canon were to introduce a single button white balance via a future firmware update ? I personally think so. Thought I’d get an expert opinion on this
@@gatsby498 yes you can but you get better colours to do it in camera itself. Maybe because I’m a newbie and not great when it comes to colour grading. I could never get the right colours in post
@@gatsby498 You can adjust a raw file in post if the color is there. If it's not there, you can't adjust it so it's best to always do a custom WB in camera
I'm not an expert in this, but I think it is not a vacuum. If I were inventing a device like this, I would use high pressure. So if there were a leaking air would go outside, not water inside.
It depends but I'm almost always near the center of the light meter. If you're having color problems, make sure you zero out the light meter during your color balance process.
Any reason one would get the R3 over the R5? Looking to get back into underwater macro photography. And I’ve been using a Sony RX100 (March 1) so a pretty big leap. Was looking at the Sony A1 but macro photographers seem to be reviewing the R5 more than other options.
I got 18 min at 8k raw before it shut down from heat. As an underwater photographer, I rarely shoot longer than a couple of min so it's not an issue for me
I believe the newer Sony system has a very similar colour science now to Canon. I love my older Sony but it can’t match those canon tones!
Canon Color!!🙌
Amazing camera for sure! Great insight on the underwater housing you chose. I look forward to seeing more more videos on how to use the camera while in an underwater housing.
:-)
Good choices. Myself I have a R6 with Nauticam housing and I totally agree with your comments about Nauticam housings. It may not be the simples nor cheapest but very comfortable to use.
I exclusively use the canon 8-15mm on my black magic 6k for video and is my go to for underwater stuff, I also use the 16-35mm ii 2.8 but mainly for land becase of the super 35 sensor on the cinema camera is a bit narrow for my liking. Keep it up I’ve known your work way before I was a scuba diver 🙌🏻
Dood! Happy to see you didn’t quit posting. Was hoping you’d still be posting. 👍🏽
I appreciate that!
I bought the $99 canon EF-R converter for my R5 and it works great with my canon EF 85mm f/1.2
Great video mate, very informative
You should put links to your gear!
Interesting. I currently shoot a 5D iv. I have a passive interest in getting into water shooting using one of my other cameras. Nothing crazy but who knows where this will lead.
2 key questions to which I haven’t been able to find a sane answer to. Maybe you can chime in. Lots of assumptions on my part.
First off, what’s the deal with cheap and DIY? On the surface it would seem we could build something relatively functional and safe if we’re dealing with typical snorkelling depths. I assume there’s a threshold starting at 2-5 meters where the tolerance requirements become exponential to the point that buying the battle proven premium gear is the smart choice. Are we ultimately talking about a market where it’s either super cheap and super expensive , or is there a sane middle ground? In other words, what are the gotchas?
My other question pertains to the better qualities you mentioned about the r5. Could you touch a bit on the image quality differences you’ve noticed with the r5 vs your previous gear (talking stills). I realize there are a ton of videos that have already covered this but you seem more credible so I’m dying to hear a more honest report on that front. However, I am curious to hear your opinion on the video quality as well, whether we’re talking internal MJPEG or externally recorded via an Atomos. Is it night and day?
On the off chance that you read this and reply - thanks a lot. My gut instinct tells me I can probably get away with some kind of used or budget housing around the 300$ mark to fit either the 6D or my m50, but I’m all ears.
Cheers
The whole diving housing scene is overwhelming me.
Great info! More videos please😃
Finally!!!
Lol, we have some new stuff coming out this week!
Thank you for a great vid!! I came looking for something else, and came across your channel. Question: I have a Nikonos V film camera with a couple lenses. Are there any digital cameras that accept this glass, maybe with an adapter, or am I just barking up the wrong tree?
Unfortunately, no. I have all my old Nikonos stuff on display in my living room. It's super cool, but no longer relevant.
@@CaymanJason Thanks!!
Great video on your rig! I'm shooting on my Canon R at the moment with a seafrog housing, but the build quality of the housing has been disappointing after 6 months (buttons not working, shutter malfunction) and I'm looking to upgrade. I saw one of your older video when you were using an ikelite housing in Ichetucknee Springs, how do you compare that to a Nauticam? What justified the extra money and physical weight on a metal housing like Nauticam over ikelite? Was the fact that you had to install the lens after inserting the body itself which made the set up slower a dealbreaker? Thanks Jason!
Thanks for checking out the video and for your kind words!
I totally get the frustration with the Seafrog housing. I've had similar issues in the past with other brands. To compare, I've used both Ikelite and Nauticam housings, and here’s my take.
Ikelite housings are more budget-friendly and lighter, which is great for travel. Plus, the clear polycarbonate lets you see what's going on inside, which is a nice feature. But, I’ve had some reliability issues with the buttons, just like you. And yes, having to install the lens after inserting the camera body can be a bit of a pain, slowing down the setup process.
On the other hand, Nauticam housings are on a different level in terms of build quality. The metal construction feels incredibly solid and durable, providing better protection for your camera. The ergonomics are also much better-the buttons and controls are more responsive and intuitively placed, making it easier to operate underwater. Another big plus is the port system, which is much more flexible and allows for a quicker setup without the hassle of installing the lens after the body. Plus, the integrated vacuum and leak detection systems give you peace of mind when diving.
Yes, Nauticam housings are significantly more expensive and heavier, but I think the investment is worth it. The reliability and durability of the metal construction mean they can handle the rigors of frequent diving and harsh conditions much better. The improved ergonomics and control placement make the shooting experience much more enjoyable. And those safety features are priceless when you’re dealing with expensive camera gear.
The lens installation process with Ikelite was annoying but not a dealbreaker for me. However, Nauticam's user-friendly port system definitely adds to the overall convenience, especially when you're setting up quickly before a dive.
If your budget allows, I’d definitely recommend going for a Nauticam housing. It’s an investment that pays off in terms of performance and peace of mind. Hope this helps, and happy diving!
@@CaymanJason I'm glad you have so much experience in different housing solutions! I'm slowly coming to a conclusion that not only should an underwater photographer need to know their gear, they have to know how to fix their gear! Your mention of Ikelite's reliability issue was exactly my concern, the plastic buttons on the clear polycarbonate reminds me of the many troubles I had trying to unjam buttons minutes before a dive. But just for a fair comparison, have you ever had a button/jamming issue on any of the metal cases?
Dare I ask another question, my plastic housing is in fact too light (my Tokina 10-17mm isn't that heavy), my housing in fact has a positive buoyancy. I had to resort to attaching stabiliser weights to achieve neutral buoyancy. Did you have the same issue with the Ikelite and does the metal housing naturally achieve a neutral/negative buoyancy? There's so many market solution on floats, but weight system seems to be hard to find. I know adding flashes to the system will definitely bring any buoyant system down, but I'm trying to avoid getting flashes for as long as possible, so I don't feel like I'm dragging a parachute in the ocean and enjoy being more streamline as a freediver (idk if you feel the same).
Thanks again for giving me so many tips! The underwater community needs more professionals like yourself who are also good at sharing their experiences! I can't wait for Canon R5 m2 to come out in August and for me to upgrade the entire system!
@@ivanmilochan The sticky button issue is typically a lack of preventative maintenance. After each outing, my camera is submerged in fresh water for a minimum of 24 hours. Additionally, every button that I pressed on the dive is actuated in the freshwater tank. As for buoyancy, I created a lead plate that bolts to the bottom of my rig. Because I'm shooting a 15-35 L with a 9.8-inch port, it's super buoyant. With the custom lead plate, it's only slightly buoyant at the surface. As I'm primarily a freediving photographer, I like to keep the rig slightly positive in the unlikely event we become separated.
I'm also looking forward to the r52 release!!! Can't wait!
Can you do one on your lighting setup?
Why was it safe to get that close to a shark? Anything we should know on the safety side? Thx for sharing.
With a little knowledge, shark diving can be very safe. They aren't the mindless killers that movies and media make them out to be
I have a Sea & Sea Housing on order from Blue Water Photo for my Canon EOS R5. The problem is that it's been on order since October and I have a dive trip coming up this Spring. Maybe I should cancel it and get the Nauticam ?
Super informative video! can I know what crop mode you use on your r5 with 8-15 fisheye when shooting video?
Hi, Jackson-I think what I said in the video can be a little confusing when it comes to the 8-15L series. My Canon 5D Mark 4 in 4k video was a cropped video so I shoot the lens at 8 to get back to 16:9 aspect ratio. With the R5, I shoot the lens at 15 and only shoot the camera in full frame. I hope this helps
Thanks for the video ! Did you use auto or manual focus for filming underwater ? 😊
On my Eos R5 I'm using auto always!
Do you think it would be an added bonus if canon were to introduce a single button white balance via a future firmware update ? I personally think so. Thought I’d get an expert opinion on this
Yes indeed! They seem to be one of the only brands with the old three step process!
I’ve never fully understood the importance of this for underwater? Can you adjust WB easily in post? I’m sure I am missing something!
@@gatsby498 yes you can but you get better colours to do it in camera itself. Maybe because I’m a newbie and not great when it comes to colour grading. I could never get the right colours in post
@@gatsby498 You can adjust a raw file in post if the color is there. If it's not there, you can't adjust it so it's best to always do a custom WB in camera
@@CaymanJason thanks Jason
I'm not an expert in this, but I think it is not a vacuum.
If I were inventing a device like this, I would use high pressure.
So if there were a leaking air would go outside, not water inside.
100% a vacuum
Hello I like ur camera set up how much was your rig. Why canon is the least favorite camera for underwater dealer keep trying to sale me other kinds
Well, it wasn't cheap. I'm not sure who you're dealing with but may I recommend Reef Photo reefphoto.com/
How do you expose for ambient light with your R5 (Under/Over expose?)
. I struggle with the colors on my R5 I feel.
It depends but I'm almost always near the center of the light meter. If you're having color problems, make sure you zero out the light meter during your color balance process.
What you use to take scratches off the Dome?
I use Novus for the poly and Glass Polish 14053 GP-PRO for the glass ports
@@CaymanJason thank you!
Any reason one would get the R3 over the R5? Looking to get back into underwater macro photography. And I’ve been using a Sony RX100 (March 1) so a pretty big leap. Was looking at the Sony A1 but macro photographers seem to be reviewing the R5 more than other options.
How long can you record before it overheats?
I got 18 min at 8k raw before it shut down from heat. As an underwater photographer, I rarely shoot longer than a couple of min so it's not an issue for me
@@CaymanJason Wow that’s actually impressive. 8k Raw is no joke. Im surprised it lasts even 18mins!
嗨，早~这边使用eos r做潜水拍照用，不知道是否对焦系统够用~感谢~
我通常使用单点对焦，始终确保焦点位于中间，因此我在后期拥有最大的自由度。这对我很有效
@@CaymanJason 嗨，请问对焦速度这款EOSR 是否跟的上呢？可以的话我就使用这款相机升级水壳子拉~谢谢回复~
我现在使用的是塑料水壳子，可以的话，就升级成金属壳子哈~感恩~
@@akisun5634 EOS r5 对焦速度非常快。我相信它是迄今为止最好的视频和静态摄影全能相机
@@CaymanJason 感谢老师回复！那我放心升级保护水壳子拉~
Great information and beautiful images. Thanks Jason.
Thanks Eric!!
Great set up, sadly you’ve got to mortgage your house to pay for it. 😉
I'll give you that! Luckily, it pays for itself in my profession