1972 Triumph GT6 - Part 82 - Engine cleaning and painting
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- Опубліковано 11 січ 2025
- It is time to clean up and paint all the engine components in preparation for assembling. The head needs to go to the machine shop for hardened valve seats and valve lapping but before that we need to change the valve guides.
Link to Steve Denton's video on rebuilding a Spitfire differential in a professional shop • Triumph Spitfire Diff ...
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No no, not sick and tired of your engine videos. They are great and the repeat activities are helpful. Great videos
Always happy seeing you working on your GT6 its getting so close. Wonderful watch all your video's never get sick and tired but appreciate that is not everyone.
I can't wait for you to take us on a test drive. The TR4 certainly doesn't sound as inviting as a romp on the TR6 accelerator, but it'll remind me of the days cruising the mountain roads in southwest Virginia in my 64 TR4. Great job!
Can’t wait to see this motor come back to life. If my old memory serves me well I remember it running pretty good. I know when you’re finished it will run like a champ.
Suggestion: Because your plan is to have the head machined, I can only imagine it would be easier for the machine shop to set the head flat on the machining table if the valve guides were not yet installed. I recall you also doing this on a TR6 head (installing the valve guides then sending it out for machining). Also, for the socket-head cap screws that you rounded, one good removal method is to weld an allen wrench into the damaged socket. Great videos. You can tell the GT6 was some time in the making just by looking at your hair style from start to finish!
I had my Triumph 6 cylinder block acid-dipped, that cleaned it very well, outside and in.
great black coat on Rusty hehe great work on the engine to!
Haha, when you asked Rusty about going for a walk my dog got up and looked the TV!. I guess you owe Rusty and my dog a walk!!! 🙂
Looking good, I'm glad you found some time that you promised yourself and your own project.
Nice Work!
Elin, if you have a slide hammer there is a very easy way to get those core plugs out. Most slide hammers have a hook that you can attach. If you have a hook for your slide hammer, simply drill a hole in the core plug big enough to get the hook into, then use the slide hammer to jerk the plug out.
Yes, I have multiple slide hammers! That is a great idea, thank you!
Nice work. You don't need to fit hardened seats to the inlet side, only the exhaust side. You should look for a nice lump of heavy plate and get it machined flat to makeep a surface plate to check for distortion on the head and block mating surfaces if you don't have a good solid straight edge to let you check with feeler gauges. Or you can use a metal bench once you have determined that it is flat, stick sheets of wet and dry to it and check the head for obvious distortion. Same method for flywheels and drive plates etc.
Thanks for the video - I know how much work goes into making these.
Elin love Rusty the dog , you need some shelving units against your garage wall love your videos always learning i am 58 years old know nothing about Triumphs mainly Ford v8 engines and cars here in Australia.
I make up my own degreaser using 4 litres of kerosine to 50ml cheap dishwashing liquid you can make it thicker.
Some dishwashing liquids crystalize depending on brand but you can make it up cheap even put it in a plastic spray bottle but buy a decent spray bottle the cheap ones do not last.
You can also brush it on you can see it dissolving the grease going a chocolate milk colour.
hose off then you will see a shiny film clean with thinners on a clean rag add your rust remover, just test a small section first you can even soak greasy parts in the stuff sorry for the long message Elin
Rusty needs two white racing stripes (and a red cape 😁).
The spin-on oil filter adapter is a pain because the steering column gets in the way of removal and replacing of a new filter. I have to take the whole adapter off then replace the filter.
Hmmm... never thought of that. Well, I got it already. I guess I will have to figure it out.
Nice resto job Elin.. That really looks great. I used to enjoy this part of the rebuilding process as I suppose it's a marker to serious part and the subsequent finish line .. It's nice to see you getting the necessary time to get a bit closer to completing that lovely GT-6. 'Rusty' is looking really well and he seems to enjoy his time in the workshop with you.
Hi Elin, You know you should really make a cleaning brush adaptor for Rusties tail, with some persuasive words about going for a walk he would have that block cleaned in no time!!
Interesting the machining pattern on the block. The standards for pipe flanges call out for a certain degree of roughness and machining pattern i.e. in those cases you dont want it too smooth. O rings are different though.
I seem to recall when I overhauled my spitfire engine the machine shop I used inserted the core plugs with some kind of sealing paste.
Its coming along nicely, great video
Good luck from Spain!!
I've had good luck with top coating painted parts with clear coat for a little bit of added protection and look.
For the story about valve guide, on my spitfire MK4 '71, I had changed them. Bu when the machin shop want to put the new ones, on one of them, the new had no friction at all, and was moving in his space. To resolve the problem, I ask to put brass one, and the one that has the problem, I used a guide for TR6 sell buy revington TR, +0,0762mm on the external diameter. But in this case, you have to machin the interiot that is smaller -0,0762mm. Hope that can help peaple in case of problem
Looking great!
Do you check if the block is flat (within specs) before you fit the head? I think my mk1's block was warped because the replaced head gasket only lasted 3000 miles before blowing. The top was done by a machine shop.
FWIW, I always paint my blocks black and my heads red.
Will you be replacing the core plugs with steel, or brass plugs?
Hi Elin,
Harry from the Netherlands again.
Have you tried taking coreplugs out bij putting in a course-treaded screw?
Relevant! Have you considered octane booster? Saves creating an issue with the seats? Personally I've never had a problem with seat erosion, I don't say it isn't a thing but ??
I was not a fan of the hardened seats either, but I decided to install them on my GT6. I don’t want to deal with additives. I drive my Spitfire every day in the Summer and even though it doesn’t have hardened seats I don’t worry much about what fuel I use.
@@RustyBeauties like I said I've never had any problems, I think maybe on higher performance or heavy usage it might but so far NADA.
Keep on keeping on Elin.✊
Question for anyone.
Why when a motor gets rebuilt does the head get decked but not the block?
Only had one question how come you did not install the plugs before painting and pay them right along with the block when you were painting the block?? Unless you were planning on painting them a different color. I’ve seen that done but normally it’s the same color as the block. I’m talking about all the block plugs that you pulled out.
I am installing brass plugs that I'd like to leave in the brass color. I like the combination
I fully understand that lotta people like to paint them along with the black color but there’s a lot of people that like to leave the plugs in their natural state and that’s fine since her breast how to give a good contrast anyway so kudos to you!!!
What engine enamel are you using?
It is by dupli-color. The one Canadian Tire sells.
If you paint Rusty first make sure he's not dusty !
LOL
First!
2nd