Watched I think it was your boat building video as you say about a year ago, when you questioned your ability. Glad to see that you stuck with it and increased your skill level. The tanks look amazing, you should be proud of yourself and your tenacity in overcoming your doubts. Well done....
wow, thanks! Tiny Brown. I've learned a lot, so much more to learn it's an ongoing and never-ending process. I do struggle with putting out content but also recognize as I learn what I have taught might be incorrect.
I acknowledge you for your detail orientation in your presentation, it's a pleasure to watch and listen. I've been an actor for decades and few people are as concise and prepared to go along with their knowledge, and babble or go "off topic," which you don't do. Your videos are easy to learn from. Thank you and I look forward to learning more.
Love your videos, you’ve really improved your skills over time. Care to share more info on your respirator? I’ve never seen one with the snorkel style filters? Also what kind of filters are those as far as what they’re rated for etc? I wanna get the right filters for welding esp aluminum.
I now use a positive air system. Blows filter air into the helmet. This is 100% the best option, I will never go back. Why? I don't always use a respirator, you need to shave, they get hot, and dirty and harbor bacteria. But the snorkel is ok, you can use any filter rated for welding. (basically a particulate filter, you don't need chemical protection for welding) Welding smoke is tiny particles of metal.
Thanks for watching!!! Yes it's miller roller switch style. I generally set the machine for 220amps and roll the switch to the max, backing off slightly as the part heats up. you don't have the same control as a foot pedal but greater flexibility in movement. It's worth the trade-off. You also don't have to drag that pedal and cable around.
Excellent work! About the little overlap of the aluminum sheets when welding the joints or edges, could you educate me the benefits of doing it that way? Other folks I've seen there was no overlap. I'd like to know the difference. Is the weld going to be stronger? Other thing is the thickness of the aluminum? I thought you said 3/16? Thanks in advance
Beautiful job. I have a question. Are your tanks USCG approved? The reason I asked is I want to build my own tank. I’m a certified welder / machinist for 50 years. I’m hearing that I can’t build my own tank because I’m not USCG approved
Good questions, the sender comes with a gasket. And the #10 scews also have a small gasket on them. There are no leaks. This is how all the tanks I have seen are.
I got this years ago, I would say over 10 years. And it was issued to me at a large sawmill. So I'm sorry I have no idea where to get one now. However, I have switched to a positive air system. This is 100% the way to go.
Hey cool gas tank. I was wondering how the tank mounts in the hull. Does the weight rest on the hull or is it suspended with the weight on those bolts? I wanted to make a tank for my boat and wasn’t sure if people ever had problems with wear from the tank rubbing on the hull?
It was mounted with bolts holding the weight. Surrounded by Delrin bushing. I built the tank out of 3/16 (1/8 is the norm) It also had a lot of baffling for the tank size. This was to give it the internal structure to take the weight. Great question!
You definitely do not want to rub on the hull. What I have seen though is corrosion happens anywhere that aluminum and water touch for long periods. (it will eat through the tank) You can also have galvanic corrosion with stainless and aluminum. Given those factors, I overbuilt this tank. However most tanks last 30 years. So this is definitely overkill. Good luck with your build!
Unless you etch the mill scale off the tanks, inside and outside.... there will be pitting in a year or so. Mill scale is not vapor proof, so ambient moisture is retained in the porous but shiny coating. Then the little tiny droplets lose their entrained oxygen to the underlying aluminum oxide and that process shifts the ph downward usually past 5 and the acid then begins to recover the oxygen from the aluminum oxide film. Then, the pitting begins and shows up as 'white flowers' to begin but continues until there's real deterioration. The same happens without water bottoms traps (Navy Sump) so the bottoms become acidic and these tanks will eat out from the inside too. No downcomer for the fill? Not securing down comers on marine tanks isn't the best practice IMExperience. Little 1/2" or 3/8" fuel draw pipes left to free stand on the bottom of the though wall fitting is not adequate support. Not that fuel slosh will impact them but engine harmonic vibrations will. Be interesting to see how these tanks fair in a couple years?
I have built about 100 tanks now. This tank and all the tanks I build are orders of magnitude better than anything I have seen from an OEM builder. (I could only be seeing the bad ones because they failed, survivor bias) I do offer my customers the option of having their tanks coated. The fuel draw on this tank Is possibly a weak point though, and I no longer use those. A point worth nothing, at the end of the day I build what the customer wants, and those factors are not always scientifically sound. Thanks for the feedback. Cheers!
@@gregepp3082 I built a couple hundred welded aluminum commercial and rec. boats from the 70's to the 90's an a few since: some 20- and some three and four times that displacement. Many included removable tanks as well as built-in and my shop took in repair and mod's work as well. I repaired tanks too and agree that many mfg. of tanks don't do as high quality of a job as they might. But the majority of tank failures were from corrosion weakened areas where mill scale was left intact, and from too-tight bends done w/o regard to the bend brake die radius and tooling size charts. Water bottoms sumps, down comers (gen. tank furniture), fill down comers and all the other ABYC, Navy and Lloyd's marine tank standards are pretty widely accepted! Most boat surveyors in our neck of the woods, (Alaska) won't accept out of standards tanks?? So the client, like a home owner, isn't really entitled to financing or insurance if they seek and build out-of-spec marine tanks. I think there actually is a CFR addressing this? Cheers.
@@gregepp3082 I have a tank thread on a boat building forum. Glen-L Forum, under the metal category is a thread on welded aluminum tanks with some information that could be useful?
Watched I think it was your boat building video as you say about a year ago, when you questioned your ability. Glad to see that you stuck with it and increased your skill level. The tanks look amazing, you should be proud of yourself and your tenacity in overcoming your doubts. Well done....
wow, thanks! Tiny Brown. I've learned a lot, so much more to learn it's an ongoing and never-ending process. I do struggle with putting out content but also recognize as I learn what I have taught might be incorrect.
I acknowledge you for your detail orientation in your presentation, it's a pleasure to watch and listen. I've been an actor for decades and few people are as concise and prepared to go along with their knowledge, and babble or go "off topic," which you don't do. Your videos are easy to learn from. Thank you and I look forward to learning more.
Thank you that is a huge compliment. I suppose Toastmasters pays off lol.
Really nice work - delrin is good discussion too.
Great build !!! I too have gone to a Tig button it is so much easier to work with !! Again great build!!
Love your videos, you’ve really improved your skills over time. Care to share more info on your respirator? I’ve never seen one with the snorkel style filters? Also what kind of filters are those as far as what they’re rated for etc? I wanna get the right filters for welding esp aluminum.
I now use a positive air system. Blows filter air into the helmet. This is 100% the best option, I will never go back. Why? I don't always use a respirator, you need to shave, they get hot, and dirty and harbor bacteria. But the snorkel is ok, you can use any filter rated for welding. (basically a particulate filter, you don't need chemical protection for welding) Welding smoke is tiny particles of metal.
great job!
Wow, really neat build.
Thanks Gary!
Good video mate always love a bit of Aluminium welding
Was the torch switch a variable one
Cheers from Aus
Thanks for watching!!! Yes it's miller roller switch style. I generally set the machine for 220amps and roll the switch to the max, backing off slightly as the part heats up. you don't have the same control as a foot pedal but greater flexibility in movement. It's worth the trade-off. You also don't have to drag that pedal and cable around.
Nice vid bro! Subscribed!
Thanks, dude!
Excellent work! About the little overlap of the aluminum sheets when welding the joints or edges, could you educate me the benefits of doing it that way? Other folks I've seen there was no overlap. I'd like to know the difference. Is the weld going to be stronger? Other thing is the thickness of the aluminum? I thought you said 3/16? Thanks in advance
Excellent workmanship... Question: What is a rough time to complete this once you have all the parts for it?
I average 1.5" per minute normally. That includes all the weld prep, unpackaging the parts, etc.
Beautiful job. I have a question. Are your tanks USCG approved? The reason I asked is I want to build my own tank. I’m a certified welder / machinist for 50 years. I’m hearing that I can’t build my own tank because I’m not USCG approved
shoot me an email and I can pass on what info I know about it.
@ hi can you pass along any info you might have in regards to building this tank as far as regulations. Thanks Gary
What keeps fuel vapor from escaping around the scews of your sending unit flange? (Since the screws now thread into the tank as thru holes)
Good questions, the sender comes with a gasket. And the #10 scews also have a small gasket on them. There are no leaks. This is how all the tanks I have seen are.
Where did you purchased your mask or a link? I have a 3m one I tried searching for hose/adapter to move the filters towards the back but no luck.
I got this years ago, I would say over 10 years. And it was issued to me at a large sawmill. So I'm sorry I have no idea where to get one now. However, I have switched to a positive air system. This is 100% the way to go.
@ okay thanks for the reply man, just starting welding at little bit at home, need to save up if I want to invest in a good PAPR system.
I am 712 sub! Hell yea I've been early on alota channels that have went very very big.
lets hope they take off one day! :)
Hey cool gas tank. I was wondering how the tank mounts in the hull. Does the weight rest on the hull or is it suspended with the weight on those bolts? I wanted to make a tank for my boat and wasn’t sure if people ever had problems with wear from the tank rubbing on the hull?
It was mounted with bolts holding the weight. Surrounded by Delrin bushing. I built the tank out of 3/16 (1/8 is the norm) It also had a lot of baffling for the tank size. This was to give it the internal structure to take the weight. Great question!
You definitely do not want to rub on the hull. What I have seen though is corrosion happens anywhere that aluminum and water touch for long periods. (it will eat through the tank) You can also have galvanic corrosion with stainless and aluminum. Given those factors, I overbuilt this tank. However most tanks last 30 years. So this is definitely overkill. Good luck with your build!
@@gregepp3082 Thanks for your feedback! I’m going to give it a shot
Do you weld the inside ?
Not possible normally the way tanks are constructed. They are normally made like a clam shell. There is no way to get inside.
What filler rod did you use on the tanks?
would have been 1/8 5256
Did you mean to say 5356?
Filler rod would be 5356, base material would be 5052 @@WaterLandAdventures
Really nice work thank you for the video and ideas!
Unless you etch the mill scale off the tanks, inside and outside.... there will be pitting in a year or so. Mill scale is not vapor proof, so ambient moisture is retained in the porous but shiny coating. Then the little tiny droplets lose their entrained oxygen to the underlying aluminum oxide and that process shifts the ph downward usually past 5 and the acid then begins to recover the oxygen from the aluminum oxide film. Then, the pitting begins and shows up as 'white flowers' to begin but continues until there's real deterioration. The same happens without water bottoms traps (Navy Sump) so the bottoms become acidic and these tanks will eat out from the inside too. No downcomer for the fill? Not securing down comers on marine tanks isn't the best practice IMExperience. Little 1/2" or 3/8" fuel draw pipes left to free stand on the bottom of the though wall fitting is not adequate support. Not that fuel slosh will impact them but engine harmonic vibrations will. Be interesting to see how these tanks fair in a couple years?
I have built about 100 tanks now. This tank and all the tanks I build are orders of magnitude better than anything I have seen from an OEM builder. (I could only be seeing the bad ones because they failed, survivor bias) I do offer my customers the option of having their tanks coated. The fuel draw on this tank Is possibly a weak point though, and I no longer use those. A point worth nothing, at the end of the day I build what the customer wants, and those factors are not always scientifically sound. Thanks for the feedback. Cheers!
@@gregepp3082 I built a couple hundred welded aluminum commercial and rec. boats from the 70's to the 90's an a few since: some 20- and some three and four times that displacement. Many included removable tanks as well as built-in and my shop took in repair and mod's work as well. I repaired tanks too and agree that many mfg. of tanks don't do as high quality of a job as they might. But the majority of tank failures were from corrosion weakened areas where mill scale was left intact, and from too-tight bends done w/o regard to the bend brake die radius and tooling size charts. Water bottoms sumps, down comers (gen. tank furniture), fill down comers and all the other ABYC, Navy and Lloyd's marine tank standards are pretty widely accepted! Most boat surveyors in our neck of the woods, (Alaska) won't accept out of standards tanks?? So the client, like a home owner, isn't really entitled to financing or insurance if they seek and build out-of-spec marine tanks. I think there actually is a CFR addressing this? Cheers.
@@kevinmorin7965 if your every in Vancouver, your welcome to stop by. I would be happy to learn as much as possible from you.
@@gregepp3082 I have a tank thread on a boat building forum. Glen-L Forum, under the metal category is a thread on welded aluminum tanks with some information that could be useful?
@@kevinmorin7965 Thanks, Kevin!