Thank you I appreciate it. I have sold my X5 and my friend that we did videos together with is really unwell after Covid and vaccination. So we can’t work of things together anymore.
@alphadevyat my friends you are missed dearly! I have benefited so much from you two. I have always shouted you guys out. I have wondered where you were? Thanks guys for your contributions to our community. In my thoughts guys!
Hi there, thanks for the great video. I did the job today. Just during the assembly be careful with rods and sealing. When I put all on it and tightened, noticed that two sealing rings fell off.
@@evgeniyapponen3935 do you mean the the two items at the inlet to the intake manifold. If so the the first one that connects to the cold side pipe of the intercooler is a factory anti-shudder valve (ASV) then after that is a factory EGR modified. But it’s a North American version that is electronically controlled as opposed to a vacuum controlled rest of the world. So that one had input from ever cooler plugged and electric motor removed and hole plugged. Both holes had aluminum round stock pressed in then the whole thing machined to make sure all smooth.
Depends how old are they. BMW recommends replacing them. Also the best quality are the original ones. I don’t always replace them if they are fresh but if they have some miles on then then definitely replace. Also people often loose washer/gasket off the studs. May want to have a few of those on hand.
Why Do you get any coding issues from dis connecting all these things I thought this was plug and play for swirl flap blanks love your detailed video 👍🏼
Dad and Lad if your battery is connected system will detect and will throw a code. Usually a shadow code. You can just rest these or disconnect a battery when working on your car. Of you are deleting the swirl flaps specifically then leave the motor and rod in place and motor plugged in. System has positional feedback and you need a bit of load on that motor. That how it knows your swirl flaps are sticking. But you can just blank and leave system working with a motor. This is on US Spec cars. On Euro Spec it was vacuum controlled so you just plug vacuum output of the system and leave controller plugged in.
Thank you for your reply I am more concerned for the fuel rail pressure connected at the back too. Is there any loss of power after this has been done. I’m in the uk, I hope you are safe and well to this sad time 🤙🏼
If you are keeping the swirl flaps then you may wish to have o-rings replaced. 27mmx3.5mm you can get FKM (Viton) ones from oringsandmore.com Also, depending on the year of manufacture some swirl flaps will not come out individually as they are connected to the swing rod they are driven by. So take them all out at the same time with the rod attached. You will want to clean the swirl flaps if you are cleaning/soaking the intake manifold. Otherwise just be careful not to damage them and check to make sure little screws holding the flaps are tight.
@@alphadevyat thanks for replying so promptly!! so no special considerations other than removing at same time possibly. I do a ton of walnut blasting for gasoline engines n54, n54 and now b58 but never worked on m57 engines before. Thanks. Any other considerations I should be aware of?
@@billniarchos7585 walnut blasting on an M57 is a much larger affair than gasoline motors. The swirl ports are quite complex and require diesel specific wands to get around. Watch the valve cover on swirl ports as the inlet is part of the valve cover. Don’t want to blast holes in plastic.
@@Ionut535d tried to pull it with a magnet? It’s too big to sneak past a valve. Assuming it it is not just a metal part and is still attached to the rubber grommet.
I have not seen any new videos from you. Hopefully all is well. I miss your outstanding material. Detailed and easy to follow.
Thank you I appreciate it. I have sold my X5 and my friend that we did videos together with is really unwell after Covid and vaccination. So we can’t work of things together anymore.
@alphadevyat my friends you are missed dearly! I have benefited so much from you two. I have always shouted you guys out. I have wondered where you were? Thanks guys for your contributions to our community. In my thoughts guys!
I am glad you are doing okay.
Perfect video, I am replacing the EGR valve this is a great guide
Thank you.
Hi there, thanks for the great video. I did the job today. Just during the assembly be careful with rods and sealing. When I put all on it and tightened, noticed that two sealing rings fell off.
Really well done. We need to clean carbon from our 335D. Much appreciated!
Excellent DIY thanks!
wow now im ready to do this. thank u.
Have fun.
I have a 320d and my starter is away is it behind the manifold
Great video!
at 4:52 i allways stick a small magnet in the socket and the nut will stay in the socket when unscrewed
how did you make the throttle body under the clamp?
@@evgeniyapponen3935 do you mean the the two items at the inlet to the intake manifold. If so the the first one that connects to the cold side pipe of the intercooler is a factory anti-shudder valve (ASV) then after that is a factory EGR modified. But it’s a North American version that is electronically controlled as opposed to a vacuum controlled rest of the world. So that one had input from ever cooler plugged and electric motor removed and hole plugged. Both holes had aluminum round stock pressed in then the whole thing machined to make sure all smooth.
Is it recommended to replace the intake gaskets when removing the intake? Thanks
Depends how old are they. BMW recommends replacing them. Also the best quality are the original ones. I don’t always replace them if they are fresh but if they have some miles on then then definitely replace. Also people often loose washer/gasket off the studs. May want to have a few of those on hand.
@@alphadevyat thanks for your reply!
Why Do you get any coding issues from dis connecting all these things I thought this was plug and play for swirl flap blanks love your detailed video 👍🏼
Dad and Lad if your battery is connected system will detect and will throw a code. Usually a shadow code. You can just rest these or disconnect a battery when working on your car. Of you are deleting the swirl flaps specifically then leave the motor and rod in place and motor plugged in. System has positional feedback and you need a bit of load on that motor. That how it knows your swirl flaps are sticking. But you can just blank and leave system working with a motor. This is on US Spec cars. On Euro Spec it was vacuum controlled so you just plug vacuum output of the system and leave controller plugged in.
Thank you for your reply I am more concerned for the fuel rail pressure connected at the back too. Is there any loss of power after this has been done. I’m in the uk, I hope you are safe and well to this sad time 🤙🏼
@@alphadevyat is blanking swirl flaps is there anything that you need to do in the ISTA software like any adaptation rests?
@@OlaGbolahan remind me please. Is the car stock?
if removing to do a walnut blast is there anything to be aware of in regards to removing and reinstalling the swirl flaps?
If you are keeping the swirl flaps then you may wish to have o-rings replaced. 27mmx3.5mm you can get FKM (Viton) ones from oringsandmore.com Also, depending on the year of manufacture some swirl flaps will not come out individually as they are connected to the swing rod they are driven by. So take them all out at the same time with the rod attached. You will want to clean the swirl flaps if you are cleaning/soaking the intake manifold. Otherwise just be careful not to damage them and check to make sure little screws holding the flaps are tight.
@@alphadevyat thanks for replying so promptly!! so no special considerations other than removing at same time possibly. I do a ton of walnut blasting for gasoline engines n54, n54 and now b58 but never worked on m57 engines before. Thanks. Any other considerations I should be aware of?
@@billniarchos7585 walnut blasting on an M57 is a much larger affair than gasoline motors. The swirl ports are quite complex and require diesel specific wands to get around. Watch the valve cover on swirl ports as the inlet is part of the valve cover. Don’t want to blast holes in plastic.
@@alphadevyat interesting. maybe I will just stay away from them as I'm plenty busy doing just gas engines. Lol.
@@alphadevyat how do you blast the swirl ports if they are part of valve cover and not bury them in walnuts? They terminate in a closed area as well?
Hi, I dropped a gasket in the engine, how can I get it out?
What gasket and what part of a motor?
the round metal one, I dropped it on a hole when I lifted the manifold
@@Ionut535d tried to pull it with a magnet? It’s too big to sneak past a valve. Assuming it it is not just a metal part and is still attached to the rubber grommet.
Thanks, I'll try a magnet and a camera
@@Ionut535d You got it? :DD