Hi Booray. I have 7 custom receipes stored on my XT-3. Four of my custom settings are B&W receipts. My favourite is Acros with a green filter with the following settings; Grain Effect-weak, Highlight Tone +4, Shadow Tone +3, Color 0,Sharpness +3, Noise Reduction -3. Dynamic Range-200. I have shot this in bright sunlight & flat overcast light & it gives me rich tones, which I absolutely love it.😊
Don't sleep on the yellow, green and red filters that Fuji offers on its b&w simulations, either. They can make a world of difference. Yellow is darkens blue skies and gives greater definition to clouds. Red offers more dramatic skies. As for green, the menu tip says it's good for skin tones, but it's also worth using for foliage.
too subtle for me too, I like something different, more retro, for example the „ready” made Ilford film simulations specially the one with the very fine grain, like it a lot, someone did the heavy lifting for me, I do jpegs only
I still shoot 35mm, medium format, and large format B&W film. Which film I select to shoot depends on: 1. subject matter 2. lighting conditions 3. desired resolution 4. available films (Ilford HP5 plus, Ilford Delta Pro 3200, Fomapan 100 are what I stockpile) In my X-Pro1 and X-Pro2 digital mirrorless cameras, I reserve two of my seven custom setting slots for black & white images. One is for regular black & white images, the other is for infrared black & white images. For the one regular black & white image slot, I have seven different black & white recipes that I can put in that slot. Three are monochrome based settings and four are Acros based settings. I am unable to say which of my seven recipes is the best for black & white images because all seven produce great jpeg black & white images with only very subtle differences.
The main reason I like to shoot in black and white is that I can see the composition that way in camera before I take the shot which helps the composition process for me.
This is such an interesting technique for analyzing the different film simulations. You’ve inspired me to run some tests of my own and experiment with the results.
Acros isn’t just tonality; if it was the X-T1 would have gotten it. It’s also resolution and grain structure. I’m not sure what good converting one JPEG simulation to another buys you, when you can do the same in RAW. And if you please, which software are you using for this, as it also makes a difference?
Hey Booray, The one that i like is the Acros but everyone has their own taste. The Classic Monochrome is good as well, thanks for sharing this video. 👍
Hi Booray that was an interesting comparison,Cheers.Just out of interest I once read an article saying that Monochrome was better in low light than Acros so that may also have a bearing on what/where you are shooting.Must be honest I haven't tried it out 😂
For my personal use case, I always edit the RAW image (well, maybe an occasional SOOC JPEG for "throw-away" photos). To that end, I like to use the monochrome sim in the camera to help me visualize in black&white while shooting, but then will open up the RAW file and convert it to B&W in Lightroom or Photoshop. But I'm one of those weirdos who actually enjoys the editing part of things; plus I generally don't want/need to edit lots and lots of photos like, say, a wedding photographer or such might need to do. In other words, your mileage may vary. 😉
I’m wondering whether anyone has compared the Fujifilm Acros simulation with actual film stock of Kodak Tri-X 400? Interested for any views on this please.
I think the colour simulations are great. I especially like Classic Chrome for certain quite specific situations, such as for a slightly melancholic, filmic effect. However, I don't see much use for the B&W options. The reason for this is that within Mac's Photos, I can produce a dozen different B&W interpretations which can themselves be manipulated in various ways. So what is the role of a B&W simulation? This is not a rhetorical question. I must be missing something. I would be very grateful to be told what. Thanks.
@@BoorayPerry Thanks. I understand, but given the range of B&W interpretations which are available with almost no effort within Photos, what is the benefit of Acros? That's what I am not seeing.
Mostly the film sims are for those who do not wish to delve into the rabbit hole of processing RAW for whatever reason. Personally I think there are too many of them and most are quite ugly, but they seem to be fashionable! I like the Velvia (which I tweak the highlight and shadow levels), Soft/Astia, Classic Chrome, B+W with Green filter, plus a couple of custom recipes The main benefit to me at least of the film simulations are that when you do shoot in RAW they provide a good starting point to what your final image is going to look like. A lighting/contrast/colour aid if you will. I find this helpful but not strictly necessary.
Interesting video showing the differences between these sims. However, as there is a lot of customisation available on each sim, this seems to be entering a potentially very deep rabbit hole indeed!
@@BoorayPerry There are drawbacks for sure to simulation bracketing but it is nice to have those files to view side by side and then decide which to keep and which to dump. Since I do not use my XT1 for anything other than using my vintage adaptive glass, I am more selective of the photos that I do take. At the end of the day, I only have a handful of photos that I download onto my computer. Heck, I don't even own any native fuji glass. Anyways, I really enjoyed your Acros vs monochrome Comparision. Even though there is a slight difference between Acros and the monochrome file, it would be impossible to identify which was which without labeling them. This is to say, show the two files without labels and then ask the people to vote which was which. I am confident the results would not be overwhelming in correctly identifying the Acros from the monochrome files.
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Switching between the two of these is like when your optometrist asks you the difference between 1 & 2 and tells you to “just pick one”
😂😂
Hi Booray. I have 7 custom receipes stored on my XT-3. Four of my custom settings are B&W receipts. My favourite is Acros with a green filter with the following settings; Grain Effect-weak, Highlight Tone +4, Shadow Tone +3, Color 0,Sharpness +3, Noise Reduction -3. Dynamic Range-200. I have shot this in bright sunlight & flat overcast light & it gives me rich tones, which I absolutely love it.😊
6 of the 7 custom settings in my XPRO3 are B&W.
Don't sleep on the yellow, green and red filters that Fuji offers on its b&w simulations, either. They can make a world of difference. Yellow is darkens blue skies and gives greater definition to clouds. Red offers more dramatic skies. As for green, the menu tip says it's good for skin tones, but it's also worth using for foliage.
Everyone keeps saying the green is good for skintone but it always makes the skintone worse when I shoot. Most people don't want the red enhanced?
The difference between them, even seeing the histogram, is too subtle for me to notice.
This was an excellent comparison
too subtle for me too, I like something different, more retro, for example the „ready” made Ilford film simulations specially the one with the very fine grain, like it a lot, someone did the heavy lifting for me, I do jpegs only
Hi Booray, Thanks for a most informative and fascinating video. I learned a lot here. Best wishes from UK. 🇬🇧
@@christianpetersen1782 Hey, thanks for taking a few minutes to comment. It means a lot 😁📷
My favorite is Ilford Pan F 50 Plus
I still shoot 35mm, medium format, and large format B&W film. Which film I select to shoot depends on:
1. subject matter
2. lighting conditions
3. desired resolution
4. available films (Ilford HP5 plus, Ilford Delta Pro 3200, Fomapan 100 are what I stockpile)
In my X-Pro1 and X-Pro2 digital mirrorless cameras, I reserve two of my seven custom setting slots for black & white images. One is for regular black & white images, the other is for infrared black & white images.
For the one regular black & white image slot, I have seven different black & white recipes that I can put in that slot. Three are monochrome based settings and four are Acros based settings.
I am unable to say which of my seven recipes is the best for black & white images because all seven produce great jpeg black & white images with only very subtle differences.
The main reason I like to shoot in black and white is that I can see the composition that way in camera before I take the shot which helps the composition process for me.
This is such an interesting technique for analyzing the different film simulations. You’ve inspired me to run some tests of my own and experiment with the results.
Have fun! 😂
Very interesting comparison, thank you!
Acros isn’t just tonality; if it was the X-T1 would have gotten it. It’s also resolution and grain structure.
I’m not sure what good converting one JPEG simulation to another buys you, when you can do the same in RAW. And if you please, which software are you using for this, as it also makes a difference?
Capture One.
mic gain is too hot or something? dialogue is clipping
Hey Booray, The one that i like is the Acros but everyone has their own taste. The Classic Monochrome is good as well, thanks for sharing this video. 👍
Agree, but when you shoot in B&W, you think in B&W. Besides the color is there in RAW.
Acros is awesome!
Hi Booray that was an interesting comparison,Cheers.Just out of interest I once read an article saying that Monochrome was better in low light than Acros so that may also have a bearing on what/where you are shooting.Must be honest I haven't tried it out 😂
For my personal use case, I always edit the RAW image (well, maybe an occasional SOOC JPEG for "throw-away" photos). To that end, I like to use the monochrome sim in the camera to help me visualize in black&white while shooting, but then will open up the RAW file and convert it to B&W in Lightroom or Photoshop. But I'm one of those weirdos who actually enjoys the editing part of things; plus I generally don't want/need to edit lots and lots of photos like, say, a wedding photographer or such might need to do. In other words, your mileage may vary. 😉
Interesting topic! 👍🏼 It would be even more interesting to compare different scin tones with those different simulations..
Thank you 🙏
I assumed part of the b&w film simulation was a simulated grain pattern. Is that the case, or an I imagining it? For me, Acros is the one.
If there is, I didn't notice it.
It’s now Acros II. I use it in 120.
I’m wondering whether anyone has compared the Fujifilm Acros simulation with actual film stock of Kodak Tri-X 400? Interested for any views on this please.
I think the colour simulations are great. I especially like Classic Chrome for certain quite specific situations, such as for a slightly melancholic, filmic effect. However, I don't see much use for the B&W options. The reason for this is that within Mac's Photos, I can produce a dozen different B&W interpretations which can themselves be manipulated in various ways. So what is the role of a B&W simulation? This is not a rhetorical question. I must be missing something. I would be very grateful to be told what. Thanks.
First, it enables you to shoot BW straight out of camera as a Jpg and second, you get the film recipe (Acros)
@@BoorayPerry Thanks. I understand, but given the range of B&W interpretations which are available with almost no effort within Photos, what is the benefit of Acros? That's what I am not seeing.
@@apaul9776 There are some people who don't want to do any post processing. Also, with Acros, you also get the 3 filter options.
Mostly the film sims are for those who do not wish to delve into the rabbit hole of processing RAW for whatever reason. Personally I think there are too many of them and most are quite ugly, but they seem to be fashionable! I like the Velvia (which I tweak the highlight and shadow levels), Soft/Astia, Classic Chrome, B+W with Green filter, plus a couple of custom recipes
The main benefit to me at least of the film simulations are that when you do shoot in RAW they provide a good starting point to what your final image is going to look like. A lighting/contrast/colour aid if you will. I find this helpful but not strictly necessary.
@@richardhale9664 Thanks, that's useful and interesting detail.
Interesting video showing the differences between these sims. However, as there is a lot of customisation available on each sim, this seems to be entering a potentially very deep rabbit hole indeed!
Oh yes. That's why I kept it to a pretty tight comparison. 🙂📷
For me - Acros+Red
Why not just shoot in Film simulation bracketing and get the best of all three film simulations!
Because that would mean tripling the amount of files on your card and taking three times as long to download them 😁
@@BoorayPerry There are drawbacks for sure to simulation bracketing but it is nice to have those files to view side by side and then decide which to keep and which to dump. Since I do not use my XT1 for anything other than using my vintage adaptive glass, I am more selective of the photos that I do take. At the end of the day, I only have a handful of photos that I download onto my computer. Heck, I don't even own any native fuji glass. Anyways, I really enjoyed your Acros vs monochrome Comparision. Even though there is a slight difference between Acros and the monochrome file, it would be impossible to identify which was which without labeling them. This is to say, show the two files without labels and then ask the people to vote which was which. I am confident the results would not be overwhelming in correctly identifying the Acros from the monochrome files.
You do not share any actual recipes.
They are built into Fuji cameras. :)