im a finance student and i got interested in split keyboards and now this stuff is just overwhelming me now . beyond the scope of my research and actual work capacity. damn guys great respect to the engineers and actual technicians who make these things.
Back in my day a wireless Corne meant we had to add bodge wires, used OLED holes for battery connectors, and hot glued our power switches on xD. This PCB you used here is really great.
I saw that site before but have never soldered anything for keyboard builds so I was having a hard time visualizing how everything would be done. Other tutorials would just straight up skip to the end portion or not include what you had in this video. Thank you for the detailed guide, now I know what I'll be doing one of these weekends :))
@@RickWeberEcon I did not meant by opposition to a panicky one, but rather a frantic one, where everything is crammed in 5 minutes or so, as if everyone was an expert (as if experts needed tutorials).
no one mentioned this, but in the video Joe said he was going to order ez solder hotswap sockets/headers. However, in the actual build, he used mill-max hotswaps. EZ solder has the black plastic case on the headers, and the mill-max hotswaps are just pins that you solder, just like Joe did in this video. Just a FYI
The trackball from keyball series from yowkees or corne keyboard from eiji onchi would be awesome. Also possible to add a similar joystick module from gmk on the motherboard?
SCOTTO YOU LEGEND!!!! I was struggling to pair the corne to my pc and I couldn't get it to work! I didn't have the niceview!'s cause they were out of stock. But your video showed I had to pair the two sides first by hitting the reset on both of them at the same time, I finally noticed the red lights under the mcu blinking at the same time. Then it paired to the pc!!! THANK YOU!!!!!
You have the best custom keyboard channel! Love your videos. I think with your help, I will be able to tackle my own build! Thanks, and keep up the great work!
Your vids have been helpful so far- just wanna appreciate ya. I'm sure I'll find more info as I move forward, but a few questions here. 1) I was unclear why you put on the microcontroller, then immediately removed it. My guess is because you didn't want to solder with the battery under the controller. 2) How do you feel about Corne's fifth column having such minimal stagger? Also, would you appreciate more flex? I relate when people use the term "rabbit hole" in these spaces. Keyboards suddenly feel overwhelming, fresh, and overly important.
Been watching some of your videos. You totally deserve a lot more subs. You basically taught me how to hand wire kbs from scratch, though I still haven't had a chance to get my hands on one. Just want you to know you're doing great and people like me appreciate your hard work.
I haven't used a choc style board yet, but when I'm putting together a regular board, I like to put all the switches into the plate first, and then try to attach it to the board. That way, they are all snapped into the plate before I get it plugged into the board.
Personally the way how i remove socketed controller is putting a long object from the front, into the back so that it goes the whole length of the controller, and lift it straight up. I usually use a metal spudger from my iFixit kit, but semi hard tweezers for me too doing this.
I think it would be better to put the silicone rubber protector back on the Tweezers Before using it to pry your IC chip. all tweezers come with free silicone slide on protector. don't throw those away.
Great tutorial as always. I just got the prints for the ScottoFly and Scotto36 ready. Waiting for the diodes to arrive in the mail so I'll probably be building them through the weekend.
@@joe_scotto Awesome! I'll join right away. Will probably have to do some changes to the layout to fit the current one I'm using (Swolemak-dh , a Swedish variant). Plus I want to add a layer or two with my most used macros for Blender, Maya and Zbrush. See you then!
I love these new Typeractive PCBs =] I bought 5col and 6col choc spaced~ Though, once I get my printer up again, I’d like to print a case that is basically the switch plate, instead of “tray mount” like it is now~
Hi @joe_scotto! Thank you very much for the tutorial. Quick question, how did you make your MacOS terminal look like that? ( 11:03 ) and can I have your .bashrc file please? :3
I'm interested in building a corne cherry v2 because it seems like the v3 doesn't have the snap-offs to convert to 5 column. I can find the documentation for v2, but not the pcb files in the crkbd github. Do you have a go-to PCB file for the cherry v2, or another way to build a corne with 5 columns and mx keys?
You’re correct, the V3 doesn’t have the snap off column… I made that mistake once and was stuck with a 6 column PCB. Everything below V3 should have the snap off column but you can also find them on other shops such as little keyboards.
Yup. The way it works is that the left half is the master and the right will always be paired wirelessly to it. You plug the left half in to the computer over USB-C and it will work with minimal latency. If you happen to game with it, the latency will be the same as a normal keyboard since the wired half is the left.
Thanks for the video! Quick question, in MacOS you have 4 at the bottom-left of your keyboard, on Linux/Windows you have 3, how do you manage that with these custom keyboards, also, does it support profiles and multiple connections so I can switch between environments? Or once you connect it to a laptop/device you can't pair another one?
Great video, anyway you can show how you did the power switch? I am waiting for parts to do this and I’ve never done it before. Even an image of the board would work for me.
The boards from Typeractive come with it pre-installed so you don’t have to do anything. If you go with a traditional Corne PCB, you basically mount the switch in the TRRS spot and then run your battery to that before going to the controller.
I have a similar build of a crkbd, but for no reason my screens are always off, I already tried reflashing, reset to initial configs, etc, but nothing works. Do you know how can I test my screens to check if they are ok?
Depends on if you want something low profile or not, I can’t answer that for you. As for the keycaps though, you can find low profile ones with legends.
Quick question: I don't like to worry about battery life, is it possible to use them wired? Since they both have 1 USB port I'm guessing I can't connect them to each other and then to my PC, I'd have to connect both to the PC independently.
The nice!nano controllers will wirelessly connect to one another on a split build and you can just power each one over USB, so yeah 2 cables. However you can also build the Corne with Arduino Pro Micros and a TRRS interconnect cable which you would only need one cable to the computer. That said, battery life is really good on the wireless builds. I get about a month on a single charge.
For the typeractive PCBs it would be about $50 less for a wired one. I’m not sure the QMK firmware would work without modifications since their PCBs are designed for their controllers. You can also just get a wired Corne kit from somewhere else, there are lots on the market.
I noticed the links for Arduino and Raspberry Pi controllers, would the DIY change at all? I thought they all had varying pinouts. Would I be able to use Pis and get the same result?
You would need either a Pro Micro or a Nice Nano, they share the same pin out but just matters if you want wireless or not. This is if you’re building a Corne, any other board you’ll have to figure out which controller to use and where to match the pins.
Since the Nice views are out of stock, can i assemble with all the other parts and update the framework with nice views when they are back in stock? Or is it a one time, thing ? Thanks for this great video. I'm definitely coming back when assembling.
It depends on how much you use the board but I typically get 1-3 weeks on a single charge. You can use the ZMK power profiler to get an idea: zmk.dev/power-profiler
hey joe,I'm quited interested to get one wireless corne for lay down coding, under which situation my legs will be between two splits.Wanna ask if you encounter any connection issue when something in between two halves.
Great build, neat site. Too bad as a European I can't get the battery with the kit, which is a bit silly because I can certainly google the product and have it shipped from like China but not in a kit from the US. Been thinking about building a smaller keyboard after using a Moonlander for about a year and a half now, and the Corne or Lily58 are both on the short list.
My country does not ship the battery and I am also not planning to build it with nice view does this works wired? I am new to this so help is very appreciated
Yes, you could use an Arduino Pro Micro in place of the Nice Nano on most Corne PCBs. I would check that it works with the one from Typeractive but I know it does on all the other versions out there.
@@joe_scotto I look at the part of the video when you select the MCU of the board and there is no arduino micro option there. I will also just rely on this video if I would build it but buying different parts can make the process different I think it will be very hard for me I dont want to waste it, do you have any suggestions other than typeractive to buy parts of a corne keyboard?
can you still use it wired? my workplace does not allow bluetooth devices to be connected to our workstations, but I'd like it to be wireless for when I'm at home.
@roaba3581 Yup, if you plug in the master side then it will work wired. The halves communicate to each other over Bluetooth low energy regardless but the connection to the computer can be wired.
Hey I just got recommended this by the algorithm, and I know this isn't related to keyboards, but I think you should do a collab with Joe Scott just for the heck of it :D
@@nathanp3366 Oh wtf… my UA-cam studio app showed this as a comment on my latest community post lol… A small 110mah battery should fit under the standard sockets if you solder it in place. The heigh difference is minimal.
Lol oh no worries I was just confused. Thanks so much for the info I really appreciate it. Getting ready to build my Lilly58 and was hoping I didn’t have to buy sockets too.
You shouldn’t have to but I would really recommend socketing the controller. If you accidentally brick it or it somehow goes bad, desoldering them is a massive pain. With sockets you just pop it out and put a new one in.
Joe, this is so cool! I don't see any custom builds on your website for sale. The tutorial is over my head but I still would like this setup. Would you consider selling this keyboard?
Hey man, great vid as always. I finaly have time and will to build my first custom. I plan to make your scottoFly but I have a quite important question. Do you think puting foam into a handwired board is safe or potetnial fire hazard?
Probably but you should definitely make your own judgement on that. I do know though that rubber would be a lot better of an option and personally have done it.
ok, I still don't understand why it's needed for soldering the nice nano pins like that, just use normal pins, I tried that with my nice nano, and it fits. So why?
You use sockets so if the controller ever fails either on it's own or say spilling water, you can replace it. If it was soldered directly, desoldering is infinitely more challenging than just popping it out and adding a new one.
This keyboard looks amazing, I have a very sick curiosity with it, but I don’t think I want to drop that big of a price for it. Me being a cheap ass or not this is bloody amazing, looks sexy and I bet is way better for your wrists and fingers then a standard qwerty.
@@joe_scotto First WOW that was a fast reply! Take my sub! I really like the form factor of this. I would be open to suggestions. I would like to assemble it my self.
I like it I. Really really like it. You work is beautiful. I love it. Please bro please do some pushups every once in a while. Really though I like and subscribe.
That website looks sweet! I have a question for you: When it comes to tiny keyboards, which do you find more comfortable, low profile keys or high profile keys?
im a finance student and i got interested in split keyboards and now this stuff is just overwhelming me now . beyond the scope of my research and actual work capacity. damn guys great respect to the engineers and actual technicians who make these things.
If you've got the spare dosh, check out the KB54 by humancomputing, prebuilt split lowpro.
Back in my day a wireless Corne meant we had to add bodge wires, used OLED holes for battery connectors, and hot glued our power switches on xD. This PCB you used here is really great.
I saw that site before but have never soldered anything for keyboard builds so I was having a hard time visualizing how everything would be done. Other tutorials would just straight up skip to the end portion or not include what you had in this video. Thank you for the detailed guide, now I know what I'll be doing one of these weekends :))
Glad it was helpful :)
Man, do I love your tutorials. Everything's crystal clear and you are very calm. Puts me in confidence for when I'm gonna solder my next keyboard :)
Makes me happy hearing my videos help :)
Now I wonder what a panicky tutorial would be like…
@@RickWeberEcon I did not meant by opposition to a panicky one, but rather a frantic one, where everything is crammed in 5 minutes or so, as if everyone was an expert (as if experts needed tutorials).
Perfect breakdown and step-by-step tutoral! Thanks for all your effort, Joe 🙌
Oh and production quality on point as always 👌
Thanks Nick! I love the board and still super impressed by the case print quality :)
no one mentioned this, but in the video Joe said he was going to order ez solder hotswap sockets/headers. However, in the actual build, he used mill-max hotswaps. EZ solder has the black plastic case on the headers, and the mill-max hotswaps are just pins that you solder, just like Joe did in this video. Just a FYI
Which ones are better? Why would we prefer one over the other?
3d printed keyboard with an intergrated track ball next please. i wanna get a 3d printer just for that
Same!
The trackball from keyball series from yowkees or corne keyboard from eiji onchi would be awesome.
Also possible to add a similar joystick module from gmk on the motherboard?
You know what in effort and money- it's actually that mouse which will take more time and keyboard will be flipping fast to make compared to that
You mean like the Charybdis?
@@somebody_on_the_internetzdidn't know about that... cheers
By far the best tutorial out there for Wireless Corne build! I'm building mine in a few weeks and I will definitely follow this guide.
SCOTTO YOU LEGEND!!!!
I was struggling to pair the corne to my pc and I couldn't get it to work!
I didn't have the niceview!'s cause they were out of stock.
But your video showed I had to pair the two sides first by hitting the reset on both of them at the same time, I finally noticed the red lights under the mcu blinking at the same time.
Then it paired to the pc!!!
THANK YOU!!!!!
Thanks Joe, I was a bit overwhelmed by what was needed and this perfect!
It really is a lot simpler than it seems, glad I could help :)
You have the best custom keyboard channel! Love your videos. I think with your help, I will be able to tackle my own build! Thanks, and keep up the great work!
What are the odds that I searched for this video literally 30 seconds after you uploaded it, good shit
Damn! Glad you found it :)
same
Thank you very much, this was extremely helpful to build my lily58, it's better than typeractive's own instruction videos. Really appreciate it.
Your vids have been helpful so far- just wanna appreciate ya.
I'm sure I'll find more info as I move forward, but a few questions here.
1) I was unclear why you put on the microcontroller, then immediately removed it. My guess is because you didn't want to solder with the battery under the controller.
2) How do you feel about Corne's fifth column having such minimal stagger? Also, would you appreciate more flex?
I relate when people use the term "rabbit hole" in these spaces. Keyboards suddenly feel overwhelming, fresh, and overly important.
Been watching some of your videos. You totally deserve a lot more subs. You basically taught me how to hand wire kbs from scratch, though I still haven't had a chance to get my hands on one. Just want you to know you're doing great and people like me appreciate your hard work.
Means a lot to me when I hear back that what I’m doing helped someone, it’s the reason I do it :)
Awesome video dude. Super informative and very high quality. Really appreciate your guides.
This is the best tutorial I’ve seen! Amazing content. Subscribed
Joe, your video guided my Typeractive build. Thanks so much.
Great tutorial. I already have Cornish Zen. Now I can build this one for the office.
I haven't used a choc style board yet, but when I'm putting together a regular board, I like to put all the switches into the plate first, and then try to attach it to the board. That way, they are all snapped into the plate before I get it plugged into the board.
typeractive and zmk look awesome! i've built a wired kyria 1.4 but this is just on another level with how easy it is
watching your vid and assembling my typeractive corne. thx!
Personally the way how i remove socketed controller is putting a long object from the front, into the back so that it goes the whole length of the controller, and lift it straight up. I usually use a metal spudger from my iFixit kit, but semi hard tweezers for me too doing this.
Mind blown how comfortable they made this.
I think it would be better to put the silicone rubber protector back on the Tweezers Before using it to pry your IC chip. all tweezers come with free silicone slide on protector. don't throw those away.
Great tutorial as always. I just got the prints for the ScottoFly and Scotto36 ready. Waiting for the diodes to arrive in the mail so I'll probably be building them through the weekend.
Hell yeah! If you’re not in the discord already, join up and ask any questions you might have :)
discord.gg/vN6X3z8eyv
@@joe_scotto Awesome! I'll join right away. Will probably have to do some changes to the layout to fit the current one I'm using (Swolemak-dh , a Swedish variant). Plus I want to add a layer or two with my most used macros for Blender, Maya and Zbrush. See you then!
Great video Joe!
Great tutorial! What do I search for to find those nice pin headers and loose pins? I've never seen loose pins like that before.
Wonderful and informative. Thank you so much!
Please show hw to customize the display widgets. I cannot figure out how to customize it.
Idk if you already have it on your newer vids but a 3d printed switch fork will really help with installing tHE SWITCHES
A what now?
I love these new Typeractive PCBs =] I bought 5col and 6col choc spaced~
Though, once I get my printer up again, I’d like to print a case that is basically the switch plate, instead of “tray mount” like it is now~
Tell Nick that I found his website from here and ordered the wireless today. Fast shipping.
can you make an explanation video on keyboard knobs?
Hi @joe_scotto! Thank you very much for the tutorial. Quick question, how did you make your MacOS terminal look like that? ( 11:03 ) and can I have your .bashrc file please? :3
any recommendations on how to configure layers + underglow in ZMK? Useful when I'm home and plugged in.
If you have any questions feel free to ask and I’ll do my best to help!
I'm interested in building a corne cherry v2 because it seems like the v3 doesn't have the snap-offs to convert to 5 column. I can find the documentation for v2, but not the pcb files in the crkbd github. Do you have a go-to PCB file for the cherry v2, or another way to build a corne with 5 columns and mx keys?
You’re correct, the V3 doesn’t have the snap off column… I made that mistake once and was stuck with a 6 column PCB. Everything below V3 should have the snap off column but you can also find them on other shops such as little keyboards.
Thank you for the video! Is it possible to still use it wired on some computers?
Yup. The way it works is that the left half is the master and the right will always be paired wirelessly to it. You plug the left half in to the computer over USB-C and it will work with minimal latency. If you happen to game with it, the latency will be the same as a normal keyboard since the wired half is the left.
Do you know where I can find a Choc compatible TKL PCB?
If only nice!views were in stock anywhere, including typeractive
Yeah they’re hard to find. Makes me super happy that I got a set haha
Have you thought about building an associated numberpad (also wireless)?
And what is the difference between using the nice!nano and a nRFMicro? Sorry, I am new to all this.
Hi, how does it feel to reach inner thumb keys . Any recommended keyboard that have thumbs a bit outward ?
How much battery life do you usually get on each side. I assume the side connecting to the computer has a lower battery life.
Thanks for the video! Quick question, in MacOS you have 4 at the bottom-left of your keyboard, on Linux/Windows you have 3, how do you manage that with these custom keyboards, also, does it support profiles and multiple connections so I can switch between environments? Or once you connect it to a laptop/device you can't pair another one?
It supports multiple devices and profiles. Everything is configured in code.
can you have RGB LEDs with a switch plate? or will it block all the light?
Great video, anyway you can show how you did the power switch? I am waiting for parts to do this and I’ve never done it before. Even an image of the board would work for me.
The boards from Typeractive come with it pre-installed so you don’t have to do anything. If you go with a traditional Corne PCB, you basically mount the switch in the TRRS spot and then run your battery to that before going to the controller.
Is it possible to do a DIY keyboard with rgb? What is the problems to do that? and a hot swap how do I do that? U can recomend some content about it?
Thanks a lot for the tutorial but I am not able to make the display work. Do you know what can the reason? Even using the same code as yours
It's possible you burnt the screens out or didn't solder them correctly if using my firmware and they're not displaying.
If I wanted to make my own PCB for a keyboard like the corne but a little more ergonomic, could I still use the nice!nano and the corne firmware?
nice!nano only runs on ZMK firmware
You didn't link the video with your keymap 😢
I have a similar build of a crkbd, but for no reason my screens are always off, I already tried reflashing, reset to initial configs, etc, but nothing works. Do you know how can I test my screens to check if they are ok?
I got a corne keyboard today. Is there a way I can change the layout to german? I only have the US shortcuts..
Can it work on multiple Machines? for example mac at home and PC at the office. Will the pair/switch be easy?
Yeah, you just press a button you assign to swap to the different devices.
which Switches you use on this keyboard? low profile? pls send me link// where you buy
do we have to go through the github gymnastics just to change the layout, or is it configurable with VIA/QMK?
Great video! thanks for sharing.
Maybe I could send you over some of our keycaps for you to try them and showcase them in a video?
Hi Joe, I notice that there are typically two UI of nice!view, and I prefer yours. So what should I do to switch between these two UI. Thanks!
I'm not sure if you can switch between them. I know on my Lily58 video it uses the newer version which I think is tied to ZMK firmware.
Do you have to seat the nice nano faced down? Or can i face it upwards to be displayed through he acrylic. I am not using the nice view.
You need to confirm with the PCB you’ll be using that the pins match, that will determine the face orientation.
How is the battery life holding on?
Nice Video,
Would you recommend low profile keys vs normal MX?
could you find keycaps for low profile with imprints ?
Depends on if you want something low profile or not, I can’t answer that for you. As for the keycaps though, you can find low profile ones with legends.
How long does the battery charge last in your eggsperience?
About a month or two with daily use. Deep sleep does wonders.
Quick question: I don't like to worry about battery life, is it possible to use them wired?
Since they both have 1 USB port I'm guessing I can't connect them to each other and then to my PC, I'd have to connect both to the PC independently.
The nice!nano controllers will wirelessly connect to one another on a split build and you can just power each one over USB, so yeah 2 cables. However you can also build the Corne with Arduino Pro Micros and a TRRS interconnect cable which you would only need one cable to the computer.
That said, battery life is really good on the wireless builds. I get about a month on a single charge.
What would be difference on price between a wired and wireless corne keyboard? Thanks, great video.
For the typeractive PCBs it would be about $50 less for a wired one. I’m not sure the QMK firmware would work without modifications since their PCBs are designed for their controllers. You can also just get a wired Corne kit from somewhere else, there are lots on the market.
@@joe_scottoI'm looking for a corne keyboard, wireless and macro support, thanks for your quick answer.
I noticed the links for Arduino and Raspberry Pi controllers, would the DIY change at all? I thought they all had varying pinouts. Would I be able to use Pis and get the same result?
You would need either a Pro Micro or a Nice Nano, they share the same pin out but just matters if you want wireless or not. This is if you’re building a Corne, any other board you’ll have to figure out which controller to use and where to match the pins.
Since the Nice views are out of stock, can i assemble with all the other parts and update the framework with nice views when they are back in stock? Or is it a one time, thing ?
Thanks for this great video. I'm definitely coming back when assembling.
Yeah, you can reflash the firmware whenever you want. You don’t have to have them from the beginning and can just add it later.
Hey very Nice video !
But wanted to ask how long do the battery last without recharging ? Batteries seems so tiny
It depends on how much you use the board but I typically get 1-3 weeks on a single charge. You can use the ZMK power profiler to get an idea: zmk.dev/power-profiler
If I make the firmware the exact same way you do, it says "fatal error, repo already exists and is not an empty directory"
I'm to build this KBRD but my oled not working. In config uncommet CONFIG_ZMK_DISPLAY=y. On internet not found unswer. You can HELP PLS.
hey joe,I'm quited interested to get one wireless corne for lay down coding, under which situation my legs will be between two splits.Wanna ask if you encounter any connection issue when something in between two halves.
You wouldn’t have any issues with your body being in the way of the halves.
thanks!@@joe_scotto
Is the nice!nano open source?
Is it thick enough that you need a wrist rest?
Great build, neat site. Too bad as a European I can't get the battery with the kit, which is a bit silly because I can certainly google the product and have it shipped from like China but not in a kit from the US. Been thinking about building a smaller keyboard after using a Moonlander for about a year and a half now, and the Corne or Lily58 are both on the short list.
Same here. Getting the battery increases the price by 25% may as well get the voyager at that point
My country does not ship the battery and I am also not planning to build it with nice view does this works wired? I am new to this so help is very appreciated
Yes, you could use an Arduino Pro Micro in place of the Nice Nano on most Corne PCBs. I would check that it works with the one from Typeractive but I know it does on all the other versions out there.
@@joe_scotto I look at the part of the video when you select the MCU of the board and there is no arduino micro option there.
I will also just rely on this video if I would build it but buying different parts can make the process different I think it will be very hard for me I dont want to waste it, do you have any suggestions other than typeractive to buy parts of a corne keyboard?
can you still use it wired? my workplace does not allow bluetooth devices to be connected to our workstations, but I'd like it to be wireless for when I'm at home.
@roaba3581 Yup, if you plug in the master side then it will work wired. The halves communicate to each other over Bluetooth low energy regardless but the connection to the computer can be wired.
Hey I just got recommended this by the algorithm, and I know this isn't related to keyboards, but I think you should do a collab with Joe Scott just for the heck of it :D
I might actually shoot him a message and try, it would be funny lol
Will a battery fit under the nice nano without the sockets? As in, just with the ones it came with?
It’s going to be Pi Pico.
What? It said in the video nice nano. I just double checked.
@@nathanp3366 Oh wtf… my UA-cam studio app showed this as a comment on my latest community post lol…
A small 110mah battery should fit under the standard sockets if you solder it in place. The heigh difference is minimal.
Lol oh no worries I was just confused. Thanks so much for the info I really appreciate it. Getting ready to build my Lilly58 and was hoping I didn’t have to buy sockets too.
You shouldn’t have to but I would really recommend socketing the controller. If you accidentally brick it or it somehow goes bad, desoldering them is a massive pain. With sockets you just pop it out and put a new one in.
Do you use this for coding? Would you recommend for that use case?
Yes, almost daily. I have a fairly substantial keymap with all my symbols and what not.
Joe, this is so cool! I don't see any custom builds on your website for sale. The tutorial is over my head but I still would like this setup. Would you consider selling this keyboard?
Shoot me a message over on Etsy, I do commissions and could build one for you.
@@joe_scotto I will, thank you!
Hey man, great vid as always. I finaly have time and will to build my first custom. I plan to make your scottoFly but I have a quite important question. Do you think puting foam into a handwired board is safe or potetnial fire hazard?
Probably but you should definitely make your own judgement on that. I do know though that rubber would be a lot better of an option and personally have done it.
ok, I still don't understand why it's needed for soldering the nice nano pins like that, just use normal pins, I tried that with my nice nano, and it fits. So why?
You use sockets so if the controller ever fails either on it's own or say spilling water, you can replace it. If it was soldered directly, desoldering is infinitely more challenging than just popping it out and adding a new one.
Can it connect to multiple devices at once and switch between them?
Yup, I have 5 profiles setup on mine. You just have to change the profile and it will auto connect to the device.
sick, is there any videos on doing that? also do you know if there's any tenting mounts for it instead of just having it lay flat@@joe_scotto
Thank you! I was just about to buy one! This will be very helpful when it comes.
How long does such a tiny battery last?
Hey Joe, Do these boards come hotswap or do we solder the switches on?
Depends on the Corne variant you get but the one from Typeractive comes pre-soldered with Choc hotswap sockets.
You can purchase the Corne from Typeractive with MX or Choc pre-soldered hotswap sockets.
This keyboard looks amazing, I have a very sick curiosity with it, but I don’t think I want to drop that big of a price for it. Me being a cheap ass or not this is bloody amazing, looks sexy and I bet is way better for your wrists and fingers then a standard qwerty.
Isn’t there a pre built?
Why does it show 96 wpm on the test when you were typing at less than 50 wpm?
It’s an estimate based on the speed I was typing, I sustained 96wpm for 15 seconds basically.
Can they be connected via cable **between** them?
Not with the nice!nano but if you build with a wired controller, sure.
@@joe_scotto Ohhhh. I made a mistake then 🥲. Hopefully I might be able to contact their support before they ship it. Thank you!
Could you use this board as a macro board?
If you wanted to, sure. There are better options for that though.
@@joe_scotto First WOW that was a fast reply! Take my sub! I really like the form factor of this. I would be open to suggestions. I would like to assemble it my self.
Pretty cool
А антенны на плате разведены?
can you use vial for it?
No. This is a wireless board intended for use with ZMK firmware.
@@joe_scotto thanks
Where is the firmware coming from?
ok got it :)
280 is kinda low for lead free solder :/ I rarely can go under 320
Yeah, that’s one issue with lead-free. If you can use it, I recommend leaded solder… it just works better.
Was hoping for a 3d printed hand wired
I like it I. Really really like it. You work is beautiful. I love it. Please bro please do some pushups every once in a while. Really though I like and subscribe.
hi hope this comment finds you well, How does the wireless work is the bluetooth in the controller or built into the pcb?
It’s in the controller.
@@joe_scotto thanks for the fast response
9:25 Plate forks… making the difference between few minutes and few seconds.
That website looks sweet! I have a question for you: When it comes to tiny keyboards, which do you find more comfortable, low profile keys or high profile keys?
I like both but I would say that low profile switches are a tiny bit more comfortable. Feels like gliding over the keys if that makes sense
OH SHIT THIS LOOKS SO SLEEK
How expensive is this?
The parts cost about $200 USD but if you build it with Pro Micros and no displays, it will be more around $150.
Two things: you didn't actually link your layout video, and it looks like you set it to 60 minutes and not 30 minutes (If you even care).