Suburban, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Yukon Oil Leak Easy Fix
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- In this video I repair my wife's 2014 Yukon equipped with a 5.3 LS engine.
Friday night I noticed oil spots on the ground where she typically parks. I remembered I had seen a little bit of on the frame of the truck the last time I changed the oil. It turns out it was just a $10.00 Gasket that had gone bad saving us $420.00 in labor to have GM fix it.
There is a thin metal cap on the bell housing that you can pop off and take a peak up in there and see if there is oil anywhere all up in there to possibly rule out a rear main seal leak.
Bro, I seen that cap but never thought about inspecting it. This will be my first step. Thank you.
Thanks for the video! I have same problem on my 07 Chevy Tahoe
DEALER RIPOFF!!! I just did this job on my 2012 Tahoe 4x4. It took literally 5 minutes to change when I was doing an oil change. The part was $6 (Felpro). You get great access to this when the oil filter is out, no need to remove driveshaft. Use a box wrench with a ratcheting flex head (cheap at a place like Harbor Freight). On another note, be very careful when using stop leak in your engine. That stuff has terrible friction properties and may actually cause damage if left in too long. Although I am not super experienced on this topic, I believe the best approach is to not use it if possible (fix the actual leak), or change the oil a short time later to avoid possible damages. Besides this leak that the Tahoe had, the rest of the vehicle underside is completely dry. My older silverado on the other hand, needs some work! BTW, thanks for your service brother!
ohh I know, thanks for subscribing
Have the same issue. I used oil dye and a blue light. Had to keep the motor running but eventually saw it was my oil pan gasket. That was over a year ago and it has done wounders for rust prevention.
I love this comment! wish there was more like it! Thanks for sibscribing
Yr. correct, It's hard to tell when oil is all. over, so you clean it all off & then drive it, come back & ck again, before starting repairs. These engines commonly leak @ the oil pan & rear main.
Thanks for subscribing, my original leak has drastically slowed down. Next oil change is coming up, I plan to clean everything the. Let it run for a while and see if I can see any other places.
thanks for the video. I’ll be watching for an update/confirmation video or comment on the fix. Maybe at the next oil change. My truck is 2 wheel drive so plenty of room.
Thanks for Subscribing, I'll most likely put an update in the next video or make a short.
You da man Jimmy. Thanks for sharing your fix.
AT-205 is your best bet especially for the rear main seal. Check Project Farms review. I have used it with great success. The stuff works on seals and o-rings, not torn gaskets. If you have multiple leaks, this stuff will fix the rubber seal leaks and make the others easier to find. Its worth the $15.
I will look it up, thanks for the reply.
it won't work on teflon seals which the rear main is, I believe.
Best way I'v found to locate an oil leak is to take the vehicle to a carwash and clean the engine and underside. Then check for leaks in a couple days.
I kinda did the same thing, last oil change I did I wiped and sprayed with brake clean..
That's how I was clued in to where it was leaking from.
Thank you so much for the information
Note also synthetic oil leaks out always after switching to regular 10w40 oil leaks slowed down
On my 5.3 oil is leaking from the oil pressure sensor, intake plenum cover, oil pan, oil cooler cap, valve covers, dip stick O ring, camshaft sensor, oil fill port, rear engine cover, front engine cover, oil level sensor, and rear main seal think im going to try spay foam.
I don't know if that would work to seal it up, Sounds like your ready for a rebuild
Lol, leaking out of every opening!
That 5.3 is suffering 😂😭
Mine is doing the same thing 😩😩😩 and the AFM lifters are starting to tick.. I have the AFM system disabled but the rebuild still has to happen.
She's a dirty girl 😅@@LaserGuy64
My 2012 Sierra has the same problem. I have change the rear main seal, the oil cooler line gasket, and the oil filter housing gasket. It is still leaking, and nobody has been able to figure out where the leak is coming from.
try your oil pressure switch it leaks usually
apparently there is a crank sensor above the starter. Try looking there
Its oil cooler line
don't take the drive shaft out you can replace the gasket
Thanks for subscribing
I changed mine thinking it would fix it, ended up leaking from the rear main seal. Still leaking, haven't fixed it yet. Used a swivel ratchet wrench for the two 10mm bolts cause the drive shaft is in the way.
How many miles are on yours?
I have 202k on my 2014@@cheapskatenation
How many miles a week would you say you’re putting on that thing with it leaking still?
In this case I would be tempted to try something like AT-205 to slow/stop the leak. At least until there is money to rebuild or scrap and buy newer. Follow whatever recommendations they have for the amount of time you leave a stop leak in the oil before doing the next oil change. I do plan on rebuilding my 07 classic 5.3 when it is needed. 238k miles on original driveline and still working great!
@@JoshuaMullins-h9lalmost 200 weekly but I do run it for vacation. I have 213k now.
Using 10w40 oil has slowed down leak a lot
Buy a bottle of tipi 205 transmission seal conditioner there's videos about it you can buy it online for about 14 bucks for Advance Auto Parts for 24 put about a half a bottle in with new oil Drive the vehicle on about a 50 to 100 me trip and then check it most likely it will have stopped leaking oil the problem with your theory is just adding a little oil as you need it as if that seal all of a sudden decides to let loose while you're driving it and drains all the oil out of the engine then you got a engine problem TP 205 transmission seal conditioner should fix the issue and if you're not running synthetic oil in the engine or at least a synthetic blend you should be that's my advice based on experience and videos from season mechanics such as Scotty Kilmer and others good luck
I run full synthetic in the Yukon
Have been a skeptic of oil sealant that being said I can't say enough about AT 205 reseal an amazing product for seals don't know if it will help gasket but definitely works for seals anything except never put it in brake fluid. It's for engines, trans,ps,diffs hydraulic leaks just follow directions.
Have only found on Amazon.
I'm going to try and use that, the truck doesn't have nearly the leak it did when the video was made. If does what it's supposed to it should help the rear main seal for a while.
Don't put foreign substances in you vehicles fluids just like you wouldn't inject your own body with em
.sure it may work for a little while and may make you feel great..but chances are down the road will be heavy consequences for doing it.
@@cheapskatenationcheck the crank sensor above the starter
@@BigFoot420n1 I did. not know there was one there. Thanks for subscribing!
I’m having the same problem with my 2009 Yukon but did that fix the oil leak?
Yes that fixed 1 of 2 leaks that it had. Sad truth is that our Yukon has a rear main seal going out.
One more to 800. Lets go people. Like and subscribe.
Put a cartoon under it in driveway and u ll be able to know where the leak coming from, but i can tell u they all leak on top oil filter on oil cooler line conection even doesnt have cooler line
I can tell you now that there is only 1 tiny drip, the oil cooler block of plate that was repaired in the video was the main culprit. It's been quite a while since the repair was made, I had it in the shop last weekend and there was no oil on the floor after sitting over night. I look forward to doing the next oil change and post an update or maybe a new video if there is something else. Thanks for your comments and subscribing.
Sunset chev eh? That's where I bought my 2018 Silverado. Thought they offered lifetime powertrain warranty?
they do, we bought this Yukon used.
@@cheapskatenation Ah gotcha. Thanks for the vid! Good to know it's a simple fix if I ever see the issue.
Doesn't cover wear items... Seals,hoses, belts,brake pads,bearings, etc.etc.. basically has to be a metal part,a solid part that doesn't move, to break... or a pump,to be covered... So if your fluid is leaking bad out pan gasket and tranny blows,it's not covered,but say the internal disk or pump fall apart or shread,likely covered,been doing neutral bombs and blow it,they'll know by the scratches and grooves and smell ,won't be covered
Sure it's an easy fix -- IF that's where it was leaking. But a bad main seal or oil pan will cost at least $2000 (AWD) as there's no way the average back yard mechanic would attempt it themselves.
Your exactly right, that's why I am not attempting to do the rear main seal. But this was an easy fix and it was the major source of the oil leak. Thanks for subscribing.
i did it took 3days
Who says the average backyard mechanic won't try it? This must be one of those ASE dorks. They can never just be quiet and let someone figure it out. Always gotta say how much it's gonna cost and "you can't possibly fix that you're not certified" well I've been told that before and funny thing is I fixed it quicker than the shop quoted and 10× cheaper and knew exactly how to install from going to the junkyard and un-installing. Amazing how someone can do that weird thing called LEARNING 😂😂😂
Just saying those ASE guys you'd swear popped outta their momma with a certificate the way they talk and TRY to make others seem stupid.
@@ScorchedEarthView Hit the nail on the head, this is half the reason why I started this channel. I felt like I was always being over quoted for work. I mean $400+ for 1 little gasket. Thanks for subscribing and your comment.
Probably oil cooler lines leaking as well
unfortunately, there are no oil cooler lines on this model. but thank you for subscribing. I appreciate it.
Would you be able to use some jb weld on the rear main seal
No, the rear main seal spins and is the seal that connects the engine to the transmission
I use that stuff to fix almost everything, lol. In this case, no, it wouldn't work.
Was that the problem
do far it seems like it is!
Can u change the gasket without dumping the oil
Yes you can do this without draining the oil. A little oil may leak out but you will not lose the majority of your oil.
What is the part called with gasket
@@rodneyanderson6473 Oil cooler block off plate looks similar to this with many different styles.
www.improvedracing.com/oil-pans/oil-pan-hardware/ls-engine-oil-cooler-block-off-cover-plate.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgJyyBhCGARIsAK8LVLPghz8UXjuRE1vFiTuyE7oAe5WHjFMvu_wZeBzvpDJvMwhpn956HowaAtrmEALw_wcB
@@rodneyanderson6473 Also just want to add that if the engine was running and this was removed you would have an instant mess. But engine cool you will be fine.
Thank you very much I really appreciate it
Make this easier on yourself end get yourself some dye to put in the engine then use a black light after 50 miles or so to find the leak
I've thought about that
so now she owes you $400 plus
I guess... maybe I'm really just saving myself from an early engine swap or rebuild
'Promosm'
Did you check the crank sensor above the starter?
No I did not, didn't even know it was there. But I will next oil change