Thank you so much for posting this. For many of the reasons you mentioned in the previous video, I committed to using only acrylic paints for my scale modelling. Having returned to the hobby after 30+ years, I am learning much. I really like Mission Models paints here in the US, and I have recently used some ICM paints - I love some of the options they have for WWII aircraft. I would love it if you can show a video of how to do washes and weathering using only acrylics/water based products. There are a lot of UA-cam videos on that, but not so many for those doing only water based.
Thank you so much for your nice comment! Mission Model colors I would also like to try in the future! And thanks for the video idea. I'll think about it in the future. But for weathering I personally still use enamel washes, but otherwise I also only use water-based, non-toxic products. My next video will be a tank model with multiple weathering techniques, probably that can be something for you. You can also already see pictures of the build in the community tab of my channel. ☺️
@@BigAndTall666 Thank you for your comment and the information. I did not know the history of this product. :) And yes, bigger nozzles are recommended, but I don't see any reason for it. In my experience, you can even apply the primer with a 0.2 mm nozzle and only 1 bar of air pressure. Only after some time (10 min or so) the primer then starts to splatter. But if you apply directly with higher air pressure, this should also work without problems. But as I also say in the video, the experiences can differ depending on the environment. At 25 degrees Celsius in the summer, everything can behave differently again.
Used not to use primer in my early scale modelling, what a crazy phrase. Saved to my goodie list. I normally build models while watching tutorials at the same time, and get panic when I don''t quite follow. What a weird habit X')
haha me too, but since I started with tamiya colors, that was not so bad :D and the tutorials I also do so. With me it is only mostly disillusionment when I realize that it never looks as good as in the tutorial :D
Thank you! I have always used IPA for Tamiya paints! I find it excellent for spraying, but since I only want to work with non-toxic substances, I no longer use it specifically (even though the AK interactive Thinner also contains some IPA)
Very useful, great review! Can the Ammo Mig Paints not be used for the Martin Kovac method? Because you only mentioned the AK 3rd gen...I'm asking, because I'm going to upgrade my paint system and I'm undecided between Ammo Mig and AK 3rd gen. I mostly built 1/48 Aircraft and had previously used Revell Aqua Color, which are a nightmare to airbrush, I never seemed to get the mixture right. That's why I would prefer the Ammo Mig, which I can just spray out of the bottle with no thinning according to your review, but I also need detail capability, like mottling and preshading...would love a helping comment from you, thanks in advance!
Hello, thank you for your nice comment. The ammo mig colors can theoretically be sprayed directly, but for fine work you definitely need thinner. I like to work with ak 3rd gen paints. The performance of the thinner from Ak Interactive is very good, but that is probably because it contains a little isopropyl alcohol. I mention that because toxicity can be a deciding factor for you after all 😊. But everyone develops their own favorite ways of airbrushing that works for them. Therefore I would recommend you to maybe try both, if it is feasible for you. Kind regards ☺️
Thanks a lot for the video! Really helps alot when you want to start airbrushing acrylics. I mainly airbrush lacquers, but i want to delve into the acrylics as well. One more question, i both own AK 3th gen and Vallejo paints. Do you suggest getting both their brand thinners? Or can I use the vallejo thinner for the both of them?
Thank you very much for your kind words and sorry for the late reply! You can actually use all acrylic paint thinners across all brands. The difference between the Vallejo thinner and the thinner from AK is that the AK thinner has a small isopropyl alcohol component and is therefore not 100% water-based, but can also thin the paint even more. A similar thinner is the thinner from VMS, which also has a small alcohol component and thins all acrylic paints well across all brands.
Do you not thin your primers? I have the AK 3rd gen black primer and I've been fighting with it all day. I'm using a .45 needle with the new H&S Ultra.
Often I do not thin them, but use quite high air pressure. Nonetheless if it is hot in my environment or if the spray pattern is not good, I thin them a bit with acrylic thinners to let them flow better. However, I would always take it easy, because I have also experienced that the properties of the primer can change with high dilution. And for priming I mainly use inexpensive airbrushes such as those from Fengda to prevent sticking and clogging of the good airbrush with these quite thick primers. I hope the answer helps
Sorry for the late reply. The mixing ratio varies depending on the paint manufacturer, color and application. I usually start with a 1:1 mixing ratio. However, it is important to always check the dilution individually after each mixing process. In the video I also show how you can do this. I hope it helps
Sorry for the late reply! There must be something wrong. Either the composition of the paint is wrong and it wasn't shaken well, for example, or the surface of the model isn't suitable for the primer, or there were oily or watery residues on the model, which can also cause poor adhesion. Perhaps the layer of paint applied was very thick and not completely dry. Applying the layer of paint more thinly would help. I hope that helps.
매우 좋은 영상입니다. 제가 거주 하는 한국은 아크릴 도료 보다 락커 도료 위주의 환경입니다. 저는 아크릴도색을 시작할때 매우 부족한 정보로 힘들었습니다. 많은 시간과 도료를 낭비하였고 지금은 어느정도 아크릴 도색을 할 수 있습니다. 이 정보는 아크릴 도색을 시작하는 이들에게 많은 도움을 줄 것입니다.
That depends on what your goals are. Generally speaking, larger needle sizes (0.3-0.5mm) are ideal for spraying paints with a thicker viscosity without clogging and for painting larger areas more quickly and uniformly. Small needle sizes (0.1-0.3) are ideal for spraying fine details and lines in a controlled manner with very diluted paints
Bro I am a Sri Lankan and I find it difficult to understand your video at once Please tell me I have some PVC toys, what should I use to color them? And how long should the paint last and how to make the paint resistant to peeling or small scratches 🙏🥺❤❤
Acrylic paint is a versatile medium that can be used on a variety of surfaces, including PVC toys. Here are some tips for airbrushing with acrylic paints on PVC: * **Choose the right paint.** Look for a high-quality acrylic paint that is specifically designed for use on plastics. * **Prepare the surface.** Clean the PVC toy thoroughly with soap and water to remove any dirt or grease. Sand the surface lightly with fine-grit sandpaper to create a rough surface for the paint to adhere to. * **Prime the surface.** Apply a coat of primer to the PVC toy. This will help to create a smooth, even base for the paint and prevent it from peeling or chipping. * **Thin the paint.** Acrylic paint can be quite thick, so it's important to thin it down before airbrushing. This will help to ensure a smooth, even application. * **Use a good quality airbrush.** A good quality airbrush will make it easier to apply the paint evenly. * **Practice your technique.** Take some time to practice airbrushing on a scrap piece of PVC before you start painting your toy. This will help you to get a feel for how the paint applies and how to control the airbrush. Once you've mastered the basics of airbrushing with acrylic paints, you can start to experiment with different techniques and colors to create your own unique designs. Here are some additional tips for making your paint last longer and more resistant to peeling or small scratches: * **Seal the paint with a clear coat.** This will help to protect the paint from the elements and prevent it from fading or chipping. * **Handle the toy carefully.** Avoid exposing the toy to extreme temperatures or humidity. * **Store the toy in a cool, dry place.** By following these tips, you can create beautiful, long-lasting airbrushed designs on your PVC toys.
Hallo Gunter, bei diesem Modell einer Airbrush-Pistole kann man den maximalen Luftdruck auch an diesem Schräubchen begrenzen und muss das nicht am Kompressor machen.
You're comments are strange. I've been aimbrushing for a while. And you're distance, he's based on how thick the paint is and the whether you want it to be a wide spread. Or hey close up line.
why are shaking your airbrush so much when applying paint? A straight even coat slightly overlapping the latter will produce nicer even coat, see H&S hints by mister Warwicks videos 3/30/2024
Thank you for your question! I do it this way because it feels better to me and it also fits into my general painting techniques because I like to paint cloudy patterns so as not to get a completely smooth paint job because that can look more realistic depending on the model, but there is no right or wrong. I would recommend doing it the way that works best for you! There are always different ways to do something depending on your wishes and the desired result. :)
Thank you very much for your Feedback! I tried to give a lot of information in the video, but still make the video as short as possible because I wanted to offer an alternative to many tutorial videos, which are often not very edited and very long. But I'll make the whole thing a little slower and more accessible next time
Sorry, but you are doing this all wrong. You are getting "orange peel" because, a) you are applying thick coats, and b) you need to add flow improver to reduce surface tension. And it DOES show on the finished model. The finish should feel smooth, not like paper. Apply a light coat and allow to dry. This creates a surface that allows further coats to adhere. Once dry, add a second fine coat and again, allow to dry. Three coats should normally be enough to give a smooth finish without blobs, runs or streaks.
Thank you very much for the feedback and the suggestion for improvement. But can you please tell me which part of the video you are referring to? As far as I remember, I use flow improver and/or thinner in several places, but also give the hint that there are ready to use products that can be applied without thinner and flow improver but sometimes may require additional thinner
@@ModeliteDiorama I was referring mainly to the primer. Spraying directly onto the plastic the first time is often likely to "bead" and form tiny droplets instead of spreading out, which is why it is best to give everything a super-light dusting and being allowed to dry before moving on to further coats. I recommend a 70/30 mix of thinner to improver, and maybe 10% on top of retarder, and then mix 50/50 with the primer. I find for larger models, Vallejo Mecha grey or black is best. Whatever manufacturers claim, "straight from the bottle" is often not a good idea.
@@TryptychUK What!!! One Shot Primer is Stynylrex. Stynylrex is Stynylrex. Ultimate Primer is Stynylrex. It is self levelling if used undiluted in any temperature, but you must use a 0.5 needle/nozzle. It dries ultra smooth even if you flood the model !!!. A stronger Primer is Mr Hobby surface primer 1200 or 1500 thinned 50/50 with Mr Hobby self levelling Lacquer thinner. This is also self levelling.and can be used with 0.3 needle /nozzle. All other primers are yesterdays news......
Thank you very much for the feedback. I've heard that several times and will adapt it in future videos. At the time I wanted to try and pack as much information into a video as short as possible to save viewers time, but that didn't seem to work so well :D
What a great guide for people looking to use Acrylics with Airbrush. Thanks for the time and effort.
Thank you very much for your kind words. I appreciate it! ☺️
Probably the best tutorial I’ve found on UA-cam yet for beginners. Thanks 🙏🏻
Thank you very much for the compliments!
Many thanks for this overview, well presented and fast enough not to be boring, yet very very informative!
Thank you very much for the kind words. That was exactly my goal. I'm glad you like the approach!
Thank you so much for posting this. For many of the reasons you mentioned in the previous video, I committed to using only acrylic paints for my scale modelling. Having returned to the hobby after 30+ years, I am learning much. I really like Mission Models paints here in the US, and I have recently used some ICM paints - I love some of the options they have for WWII aircraft. I would love it if you can show a video of how to do washes and weathering using only acrylics/water based products. There are a lot of UA-cam videos on that, but not so many for those doing only water based.
Thank you so much for your nice comment! Mission Model colors I would also like to try in the future! And thanks for the video idea. I'll think about it in the future. But for weathering I personally still use enamel washes, but otherwise I also only use water-based, non-toxic products. My next video will be a tank model with multiple weathering techniques, probably that can be something for you. You can also already see pictures of the build in the community tab of my channel. ☺️
My goto water-based primer is the Badger "Stynylrez" line. Thanks for the very informative video.
Thank you for your nice comment and for your recommendation. I have to check it out! ☺️
Mig "oneshot" is simply rebranded Badger "Stynylrez", Badger recommends using a 0.5 mm. nozzle as the smallest...
@@BigAndTall666 Thank you for your comment and the information. I did not know the history of this product. :)
And yes, bigger nozzles are recommended, but I don't see any reason for it. In my experience, you can even apply the primer with a 0.2 mm nozzle and only 1 bar of air pressure. Only after some time (10 min or so) the primer then starts to splatter. But if you apply directly with higher air pressure, this should also work without problems.
But as I also say in the video, the experiences can differ depending on the environment. At 25 degrees Celsius in the summer, everything can behave differently again.
Used not to use primer in my early scale modelling, what a crazy phrase. Saved to my goodie list. I normally build models while watching tutorials at the same time, and get panic when I don''t quite follow. What a weird habit X')
haha me too, but since I started with tamiya colors, that was not so bad :D and the tutorials I also do so. With me it is only mostly disillusionment when I realize that it never looks as good as in the tutorial :D
@@ModeliteDiorama yeah sometimes camera would do the trick ; P
A very good and clear overview. Thank you.
Thank you very much for your feedback! :)
This is a great guide video! 👍👍👍
Thank you very much for your kind words! I appreciate it! :)
Cool tutorial. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you very much for your kind Comment! ☺️
Nice and informing video my friend .
Keep on the good work and model on .
Have a nice weekend and bench time .
Stay safe and well my friend :)
Thank you my friend for your nice comment! I wish you a nice weekend and great Bench Time too! ☺️
Thanks buddy for this nice and informative guide !
Thank you for your kind Comment Robert! ☺️
Thanks for this very informative Video 👍👍
Thanks for your kind Feedback!
amazing informations many thanks!! Btw what do u think about thinning with IPA for acrylics?
Thank you! I have always used IPA for Tamiya paints! I find it excellent for spraying, but since I only want to work with non-toxic substances, I no longer use it specifically (even though the AK interactive Thinner also contains some IPA)
Very useful, great review!
Can the Ammo Mig Paints not be used for the Martin Kovac method? Because you only mentioned the AK 3rd gen...I'm asking, because I'm going to upgrade my paint system and I'm undecided between Ammo Mig and AK 3rd gen. I mostly built 1/48 Aircraft and had previously used Revell Aqua Color, which are a nightmare to airbrush, I never seemed to get the mixture right. That's why I would prefer the Ammo Mig, which I can just spray out of the bottle with no thinning according to your review, but I also need detail capability, like mottling and preshading...would love a helping comment from you, thanks in advance!
Hello, thank you for your nice comment. The ammo mig colors can theoretically be sprayed directly, but for fine work you definitely need thinner.
I like to work with ak 3rd gen paints. The performance of the thinner from Ak Interactive is very good, but that is probably because it contains a little isopropyl alcohol. I mention that because toxicity can be a deciding factor for you after all 😊.
But everyone develops their own favorite ways of airbrushing that works for them. Therefore I would recommend you to maybe try both, if it is feasible for you.
Kind regards ☺️
Well done
Thank you very much for your comment! :)
Thanks a lot for the video! Really helps alot when you want to start airbrushing acrylics. I mainly airbrush lacquers, but i want to delve into the acrylics as well. One more question, i both own AK 3th gen and Vallejo paints. Do you suggest getting both their brand thinners? Or can I use the vallejo thinner for the both of them?
Thank you very much for your kind words and sorry for the late reply! You can actually use all acrylic paint thinners across all brands. The difference between the Vallejo thinner and the thinner from AK is that the AK thinner has a small isopropyl alcohol component and is therefore not 100% water-based, but can also thin the paint even more. A similar thinner is the thinner from VMS, which also has a small alcohol component and thins all acrylic paints well across all brands.
Oi Boa noite de domingo , com muita alegria e boa disposição, seu trabalho é louvável e eu admiro muito seu carisma, obrigada
Thank you very much Marcos for your kind words! I really appreciate it 😊
Do you not thin your primers? I have the AK 3rd gen black primer and I've been fighting with it all day. I'm using a .45 needle with the new H&S Ultra.
Often I do not thin them, but use quite high air pressure. Nonetheless if it is hot in my environment or if the spray pattern is not good, I thin them a bit with acrylic thinners to let them flow better. However, I would always take it easy, because I have also experienced that the properties of the primer can change with high dilution. And for priming I mainly use inexpensive airbrushes such as those from Fengda to prevent sticking and clogging of the good airbrush with these quite thick primers. I hope the answer helps
@@ModeliteDiorama You've given me plenty to consider! Thanks!
how are you measuring out the ratios and proportions of thinner and paint?
Sorry for the late reply. The mixing ratio varies depending on the paint manufacturer, color and application. I usually start with a 1:1 mixing ratio. However, it is important to always check the dilution individually after each mixing process. In the video I also show how you can do this. I hope it helps
why can I rub my vallejo acryllic primer off with a swipe of my finger after it has dried for 24hrs?
Sorry for the late reply! There must be something wrong. Either the composition of the paint is wrong and it wasn't shaken well, for example, or the surface of the model isn't suitable for the primer, or there were oily or watery residues on the model, which can also cause poor adhesion. Perhaps the layer of paint applied was very thick and not completely dry. Applying the layer of paint more thinly would help. I hope that helps.
@@ModeliteDiorama thanks I had given up on airbrush priming but I will give it one more try
@@pepi560 it shouldn't be rocket science. you can also dilute the primer a little to apply a thinner layer! I Wish you much success and have fun!
매우 좋은 영상입니다.
제가 거주 하는 한국은 아크릴 도료 보다 락커 도료 위주의 환경입니다.
저는 아크릴도색을 시작할때 매우 부족한 정보로 힘들었습니다.
많은 시간과 도료를 낭비하였고 지금은 어느정도 아크릴 도색을 할 수 있습니다.
이 정보는 아크릴 도색을 시작하는 이들에게 많은 도움을 줄 것입니다.
Thank you very much and I'm glad that it helps!
What's the best needle size to spray with?
That depends on what your goals are. Generally speaking, larger needle sizes (0.3-0.5mm) are ideal for spraying paints with a thicker viscosity without clogging and for painting larger areas more quickly and uniformly. Small needle sizes (0.1-0.3) are ideal for spraying fine details and lines in a controlled manner with very diluted paints
@@ModeliteDioramaThanks, I looking for large coverage, when spraying a model the base colour. But thanks you answered my question.
Bro I am a Sri Lankan and I find it difficult to understand your video at once
Please tell me
I have some PVC toys, what should I use to color them?
And how long should the paint last and how to make the paint resistant to peeling or small scratches 🙏🥺❤❤
Acrylic paint is a versatile medium that can be used on a variety of surfaces, including PVC toys. Here are some tips for airbrushing with acrylic paints on PVC:
* **Choose the right paint.** Look for a high-quality acrylic paint that is specifically designed for use on plastics.
* **Prepare the surface.** Clean the PVC toy thoroughly with soap and water to remove any dirt or grease. Sand the surface lightly with fine-grit sandpaper to create a rough surface for the paint to adhere to.
* **Prime the surface.** Apply a coat of primer to the PVC toy. This will help to create a smooth, even base for the paint and prevent it from peeling or chipping.
* **Thin the paint.** Acrylic paint can be quite thick, so it's important to thin it down before airbrushing. This will help to ensure a smooth, even application.
* **Use a good quality airbrush.** A good quality airbrush will make it easier to apply the paint evenly.
* **Practice your technique.** Take some time to practice airbrushing on a scrap piece of PVC before you start painting your toy. This will help you to get a feel for how the paint applies and how to control the airbrush.
Once you've mastered the basics of airbrushing with acrylic paints, you can start to experiment with different techniques and colors to create your own unique designs.
Here are some additional tips for making your paint last longer and more resistant to peeling or small scratches:
* **Seal the paint with a clear coat.** This will help to protect the paint from the elements and prevent it from fading or chipping.
* **Handle the toy carefully.** Avoid exposing the toy to extreme temperatures or humidity.
* **Store the toy in a cool, dry place.**
By following these tips, you can create beautiful, long-lasting airbrushed designs on your PVC toys.
Wozu ist die Einstellschraube unter dem Farb Becher? Danke
Hallo Gunter, bei diesem Modell einer Airbrush-Pistole kann man den maximalen Luftdruck auch an diesem Schräubchen begrenzen und muss das nicht am Kompressor machen.
After using respirator, you should clean it and instead new filter
Thank you for your comment! ☺️ And yes you are right, the filter should be changed after some usages! ☺️
You're comments are strange. I've been aimbrushing for a while. And you're distance, he's based on how thick the paint is and the whether you want it to be a wide spread. Or hey close up line.
why are shaking your airbrush so much when applying paint? A straight even coat slightly overlapping the latter will produce nicer even coat, see H&S hints by mister Warwicks videos 3/30/2024
Thank you for your question! I do it this way because it feels better to me and it also fits into my general painting techniques because I like to paint cloudy patterns so as not to get a completely smooth paint job because that can look more realistic depending on the model, but there is no right or wrong. I would recommend doing it the way that works best for you! There are always different ways to do something depending on your wishes and the desired result. :)
Why are you watching a tutorial and giving advice at the same time? 😂
Very useful video. But please. Talk a little bit slower.
Thank you very much for your Feedback! I tried to give a lot of information in the video, but still make the video as short as possible because I wanted to offer an alternative to many tutorial videos, which are often not very edited and very long. But I'll make the whole thing a little slower and more accessible next time
Sorry, but you are doing this all wrong.
You are getting "orange peel" because, a) you are applying thick coats, and b) you need to add flow improver to reduce surface tension.
And it DOES show on the finished model. The finish should feel smooth, not like paper.
Apply a light coat and allow to dry. This creates a surface that allows further coats to adhere.
Once dry, add a second fine coat and again, allow to dry.
Three coats should normally be enough to give a smooth finish without blobs, runs or streaks.
Thank you very much for the feedback and the suggestion for improvement. But can you please tell me which part of the video you are referring to? As far as I remember, I use flow improver and/or thinner in several places, but also give the hint that there are ready to use products that can be applied without thinner and flow improver but sometimes may require additional thinner
@@ModeliteDiorama I was referring mainly to the primer. Spraying directly onto the plastic the first time is often likely to "bead" and form tiny droplets instead of spreading out, which is why it is best to give everything a super-light dusting and being allowed to dry before moving on to further coats. I recommend a 70/30 mix of thinner to improver, and maybe 10% on top of retarder, and then mix 50/50 with the primer. I find for larger models, Vallejo Mecha grey or black is best.
Whatever manufacturers claim, "straight from the bottle" is often not a good idea.
@@TryptychUK What!!! One Shot Primer is Stynylrex. Stynylrex is Stynylrex. Ultimate Primer is Stynylrex. It is self levelling if used undiluted in any temperature, but you must use a 0.5 needle/nozzle. It dries ultra smooth even if you flood the model !!!. A stronger Primer is Mr Hobby surface primer 1200 or 1500 thinned 50/50 with Mr Hobby self levelling Lacquer thinner. This is also self levelling.and can be used with 0.3 needle /nozzle. All other primers are yesterdays news......
@@johntaylor5807 The guy is using Vallejo.
I like your topics but you're talking too fast. It's hard to understand you with that accent.
Thank you very much for the feedback. I've heard that several times and will adapt it in future videos. At the time I wanted to try and pack as much information into a video as short as possible to save viewers time, but that didn't seem to work so well :D
@@ModeliteDiorama 👍🏻