I built a ton of these panels to move around our place. I didn't put posts directly into the ground. Instead I placed posts in 5 gal buckets with concrete and then buried the buckets. If I ever want to move the panels I just need to dig up the buckets and move them to where I want to
Thanks for being willing to say the expanding foam produces a less stable post foundation. Stability is important in my location where we are exposed to high winds from both hurricanes and tornadoes or just straight line winds which can really impact fencing, particularly if the ground becomes saturated around the post footings. I personally stick with digging somewhat larger holes than needed, bracing the fence upright poles with angular temporary braces, then pouring in quick mix cement to fill the hole. I let that set for two days, then proceed with the rest of the job. Obviously , get the posts level before GENTLY pouring in the cement mix,, adding water, and stirring up with a piece of rebar. No matter how good of a builder anyone is, there will be slight variations which make measuring and building each cattle panel section a customized process to fit the specific space between any two posts. Those variations likely won't be visible to the eye but will eliminate the need for ratchet strapping slightly bent posts together. You got really nice results doing it your way and that is what counts! I enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing it.
We put in strong posts digging post holes with an auger attachment to a bobcat then used cattle panels around our 36x32ft raised bed garden fifteen years ago and soooo glad we did .
This was a great instructional video, I like what you said about using the foam using 4 by 4's. That is a really clean project you did there it's really nice I like it.
The problem with cattle panels is that if you use it like this racoons, wood chucks and all semi large critters can go right through the hole. I recommend deer fencing the holes are small and th wire strong.
@@ameriicanprepper5813 it’s funny you said woodchucks, we HAD an issue with them, but the beds are so high they didn’t get into anything. Raccoons can climb no matter what, so size won’t matter in the end they’ll get in. You’d have to run the gate strait to the ground and it would have to be the same size as fence.
This turned out beautiful! I’m wanting to do the same concept for my small garden to keep out my dog and the neighborhood pets and pests. The only change I’d personally make is concrete instead of the foam and ripping a dado to inset the cattle panels just because it looks so clean when done and it’s completely surrounded as to not show the edges of the wire panels. I wonder if you had screwed your panels into the posts first, rather than the fence brackets alone it would’ve sured and squared up some of the inconsistencies in width of your posts and strengthened them by that connection which you still can do. I think it’d tighten up any loose posts. Those are all minor, you did a better job than I could probably do and this really turned out beautiful! The other plus to the cattle panel is the wind shouldn’t beat up on it like a traditional fence so I’m hoping the foam won’t be an issue even long term 👍🏼I love the look but I also love the function because you can see in anytime to observe what’s going on and two it allows ample air or a breeze to blow through the cattle panels and keep your veggies well aerated plus helps to not eliminate sunlight like a traditional fence would. Anyways awesome build!
A) Set the posts with braces BEFORE you mix the foam. B) Have some acetone handy. It will dissolve the foam and make clean-up much easier. C) Concrete is better and doesn't require mixing. You can just pour it in the hole and it will harden. While mixing it is better, it's still stronger than foam without mixing it with water first. It's cheaper too.
Thanks for this video. I like how you built the 8' panels, I'm trying to figure out how to do the same thing with 16 cattle panels without cutting the panels. Wanting to make it aesthetically pleasing as well.
Looks great... wondering what you are hoping to keep out with a fence with such large openings and not very tall... seeing as dear will clear an 8ft fence without blinking.
The openings will be for a gate…which will be a upcoming video. Yes it is deer we are looking to keep out. This is the beginning of the project. We will add some height to the fence, lights, more beds in the open spaces, cattle panel trellises in strategic spots, and building out the area around the fence with plants and shrubs. So we have a lot of things still to do. But so far it was successful in keeping the deer out, even with the openings, they did not bother anything in the fence.
Thank you! There is another video that shows the gate being built. Here’s the link otherwise you can find it on our home page? ua-cam.com/video/XPgcARv6BpM/v-deo.htmlsi=HFOElvlUCsFKoGsK
I like cattle panels and have used them to train espalier trees but it seems like the holes are too big to keep out some animals unless that doesn’t matter for this project.
I think you mean these: www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-RTU-18-Gauge-Galvanized-Rigid-Tie-Connector-for-2x-Nominal-Lumber-RTU2-R/313810428 I hope it helps
Looks like manufacturer of Sika foam says for 4x4 posts to have a hole diameter of 8-10” and 36” deep using 1 or 2 packets of Sika based on hole width. May be why your posts are not really stable but not sure exactly what your dimensions were from the video.
I would have love to dug a hole that big…but the ground, my back and Mother Nature decided I should not. Getting them as deep as I did was a battle, with bowling ball sized rocks on almost every whole.
Fence Post Brackets from Home Depot. www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-FB-ZMAX-Galvanized-Fence-Rail-Bracket-for-2x4-Nominal-Lumber-FB24Z/100375311
It would be….but I put the cattle panels centered on the top and bottom 2x4s so that splits it and only is 3.5 total inches, instead of 7 inches. I hope that makes sense.
I haven’t had any issues so far. They stay way from the fence and if they did jump it they have to be very precise with their landing. I have trellises between the beds and have added more beds and planters since this video. I try to maximize my usage of space.
@@CarsonBerger I don’t see why not, but to make sure it’s sturdy, I’d segment it with wood bracers in the center. I have children and they climb, I’d be afraid it might break. You also have the struggle of finding straight 2x4x16s.
Our biggest concern when I built it was deer and it does a great job keeping them out. The rest of the visitors we handle cases by case and so far there hasn’t been much concern.
You should have used concrete lentil s instead of wood as the last forever and do not have to paint them. And bolted 4" x 2" and then attached your mesh to that. That foam stuff is pure rubbish. Can't beat concrete or fast setting concrete.
I won’t argue with you there. I wish I would have used concrete. But I’m not ruling out a possible of expansion. If that ever happens it would make it easier to remove, and I’d use concrete the second round.
And cut an 8" cavity block in half. Put your lentil into the block, pour concrete around it, and let get go off. You will have to make a bigger hole in the bottom for the block. But the lentil will not move with the block as it's base & is easier to level. Trust me, I have done several fences and some lentils where 6' high & 18" to 24" deep in the ground, and then once set, you pull a chalk line to level the top & cut with a big grinder.
![DIY Garden Fence with Gate [EZ Post Install]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Sm7O9QHcMkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I built a ton of these panels to move around our place. I didn't put posts directly into the ground. Instead I placed posts in 5 gal buckets with concrete and then buried the buckets. If I ever want to move the panels I just need to dig up the buckets and move them to where I want to
omg, great idea
That’s an amazing idea, are you sent from the future?
Nice
Thanks for being willing to say the expanding foam produces a less stable post foundation. Stability is important in my location where we are exposed to high winds from both hurricanes and tornadoes or just straight line winds which can really impact fencing, particularly if the ground becomes saturated around the post footings. I personally stick with digging somewhat larger holes than needed, bracing the fence upright poles with angular temporary braces, then pouring in quick mix cement to fill the hole. I let that set for two days, then proceed with the rest of the job. Obviously , get the posts level before GENTLY pouring in the cement mix,, adding water, and stirring up with a piece of rebar.
No matter how good of a builder anyone is, there will be slight variations which make measuring and building each cattle panel section a customized process to fit the specific space between any two posts. Those variations likely won't be visible to the eye but will eliminate the need for ratchet strapping slightly bent posts together.
You got really nice results doing it your way and that is what counts! I enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing it.
I'm glad you mentioned your afterthoughts at the end. They all make sense and will help me avoid making similar headaches.
We put in strong posts digging post holes with an auger attachment to a bobcat then used cattle panels around our 36x32ft raised bed garden fifteen years ago and soooo glad we did .
1:22 love that you included the money shot!
Great build, love the idea of the brackets for the panels.
This fencing and garden is very attractive!
Thank you!
Good job from Greece. Thank you my friend..
Nice fence, nice methodology.❤😎👍
This was a great instructional video, I like what you said about using the foam using 4 by 4's. That is a really clean project you did there it's really nice I like it.
gotta love ratchet straps , great video love how it turned out
Nice work!
The problem with cattle panels is that if you use it like this racoons, wood chucks and all semi large critters can go right through the hole. I recommend deer fencing the holes are small and th wire strong.
@@ameriicanprepper5813 it’s funny you said woodchucks, we HAD an issue with them, but the beds are so high they didn’t get into anything. Raccoons can climb no matter what, so size won’t matter in the end they’ll get in. You’d have to run the gate strait to the ground and it would have to be the same size as fence.
This turned out beautiful! I’m wanting to do the same concept for my small garden to keep out my dog and the neighborhood pets and pests. The only change I’d personally make is concrete instead of the foam and ripping a dado to inset the cattle panels just because it looks so clean when done and it’s completely surrounded as to not show the edges of the wire panels. I wonder if you had screwed your panels into the posts first, rather than the fence brackets alone it would’ve sured and squared up some of the inconsistencies in width of your posts and strengthened them by that connection which you still can do. I think it’d tighten up any loose posts. Those are all minor, you did a better job than I could probably do and this really turned out beautiful! The other plus to the cattle panel is the wind shouldn’t beat up on it like a traditional fence so I’m hoping the foam won’t be an issue even long term 👍🏼I love the look but I also love the function because you can see in anytime to observe what’s going on and two it allows ample air or a breeze to blow through the cattle panels and keep your veggies well aerated plus helps to not eliminate sunlight like a traditional fence would. Anyways awesome build!
Nice work appreciate the detailed video. I want to build this style fence around our chicken coops.
I used my JawHorse to set the posts with the foam. I use it every time now for foam or concrete
Nice work. Great video. Thank you for mentioning the amount of time it took.
Looks good, impressive editing and filming too.
My concern would be how does that expanda foam effect the soil ? I'm sure this product has forever chemicals in it !
A) Set the posts with braces BEFORE you mix the foam. B) Have some acetone handy. It will dissolve the foam and make clean-up much easier. C) Concrete is better and doesn't require mixing. You can just pour it in the hole and it will harden. While mixing it is better, it's still stronger than foam without mixing it with water first. It's cheaper too.
Looks great.
Build the fence as you go along. That will insure each section is equal distance apart. All post first is a no no on a fence like this.
Thanks for this video. I like how you built the 8' panels, I'm trying to figure out how to do the same thing with 16 cattle panels without cutting the panels. Wanting to make it aesthetically pleasing as well.
Im trying to figure that same thing out also using 16ft cattle panels. How did you end up handling the 16ft panels?
Mine is actually just functional not aesthetically pleasing@@freshmandad3336
Looks great... wondering what you are hoping to keep out with a fence with such large openings and not very tall... seeing as dear will clear an 8ft fence without blinking.
The openings will be for a gate…which will be a upcoming video. Yes it is deer we are looking to keep out. This is the beginning of the project. We will add some height to the fence, lights, more beds in the open spaces, cattle panel trellises in strategic spots, and building out the area around the fence with plants and shrubs. So we have a lot of things still to do. But so far it was successful in keeping the deer out, even with the openings, they did not bother anything in the fence.
This is beautiful 😊
Great video. Could you add the gates?
Thank you! There is another video that shows the gate being built. Here’s the link otherwise you can find it on our home page?
ua-cam.com/video/XPgcARv6BpM/v-deo.htmlsi=HFOElvlUCsFKoGsK
I like cattle panels and have used them to train espalier trees but it seems like the holes are too big to keep out some animals unless that doesn’t matter for this project.
It doesn’t matter too much, it was mostly for deer.
Maybe set the post with braces first then pour the exploding foam? Didn't know such a product existed
So, why not brace the posts BEFORE putting in the expanding foam?
Where can I get the top brackets. Found everything but them and they will make it easy to hold the top and not need help. Thanks
I think you mean these:
www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-RTU-18-Gauge-Galvanized-Rigid-Tie-Connector-for-2x-Nominal-Lumber-RTU2-R/313810428
I hope it helps
Where did you get the pocket hole jig, I didn't want to spend a fortune on one and yours looks simple and it works :)
Kreg pocket hole jig from Home Depot.
www.homedepot.com/p/Kreg-Pocket-Hole-Jig-KPHJ320/310410050
Looks like manufacturer of Sika foam says for 4x4 posts to have a hole diameter of 8-10” and 36” deep using 1 or 2 packets of Sika based on hole width. May be why your posts are not really stable but not sure exactly what your dimensions were from the video.
I would have love to dug a hole that big…but the ground, my back and Mother Nature decided I should not. Getting them as deep as I did was a battle, with bowling ball sized rocks on almost every whole.
My garden needs to be double that size
Where did you find the metal bracket that you used to hold the panels to the post? Do they have a name?
Fence Post Brackets from Home Depot.
www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-FB-ZMAX-Galvanized-Fence-Rail-Bracket-for-2x4-Nominal-Lumber-FB24Z/100375311
If your panel is 50" and the topper and base are 3.5" each, wouldn't that make your total height 57"? I'm confused. Still, it's a beautiful fence!❤️
It would be….but I put the cattle panels centered on the top and bottom 2x4s so that splits it and only is 3.5 total inches, instead of 7 inches. I hope that makes sense.
acetone will desolve the foam
❤
What are the brackets you used to hang the panels? And it looks great!
The bottoms bracket
www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-FB-ZMAX-Galvanized-Fence-Rail-Bracket-for-2x4-Nominal-Lumber-FB24Z/100375311
What kind of pressure treated lumber is this?
It’s the pressure treated from Home Depot (not the ground contact).
what is the size of your garden. I am wanting to make a 40' X 40' or 50'X50'
It’s roughly 33x46 ish. Each panel is about 8 feet wide
Do you have to or do you plan on staining or water proofing the wood?
I don’t have a plan to right now. I like how it ages, but I am not ruling it out for the future.
have you had any issues with deer jumping it? or does the cable prevent that?@@BogLife
I haven’t had any issues so far. They stay way from the fence and if they did jump it they have to be very precise with their landing. I have trellises between the beds and have added more beds and planters since this video. I try to maximize my usage of space.
would you see any concerns doing 16' x 52" cattle panels?@@BogLife
@@CarsonBerger I don’t see why not, but to make sure it’s sturdy, I’d segment it with wood bracers in the center. I have children and they climb, I’d be afraid it might break. You also have the struggle of finding straight 2x4x16s.
where did you get your panels?
Tractor supply company.
Lol😅you set bracers before you put anything in the holes. ;)
I was thinking the same thing. And I’m fairly new at this fence building thing.
If you paint the metal part of the fence flat black it's almost invisible very cool look .
Love the design but the cattle panels allow unwanted visitors.
Our biggest concern when I built it was deer and it does a great job keeping them out. The rest of the visitors we handle cases by case and so far there hasn’t been much concern.
Haha thatß what she said
You should have used concrete lentil s instead of wood as the last forever and do not have to paint them. And bolted 4" x 2" and then attached your mesh to that. That foam stuff is pure rubbish. Can't beat concrete or fast setting concrete.
I won’t argue with you there. I wish I would have used concrete. But I’m not ruling out a possible of expansion. If that ever happens it would make it easier to remove, and I’d use concrete the second round.
And cut an 8" cavity block in half. Put your lentil into the block, pour concrete around it, and let get go off. You will have to make a bigger hole in the bottom for the block. But the lentil will not move with the block as it's base & is easier to level. Trust me, I have done several fences and some lentils where 6' high & 18" to 24" deep in the ground, and then once set, you pull a chalk line to level the top & cut with a big grinder.
Looks great