I have had my FM for over 40 years. It still works great. Now that I'm older sometimes I need my glasses too. When I am looking through the view finder I compose the shot, check focus, check s stop/ f stop. To make sure the focal plan that I want is in focus and shutter and desired shutter speed. That's it. If the exposure is where I want. Then there is the composition. The same no matter what camera in use. One thing that gets in my way sometimes is the split image focusing some of my lenses don't like the split image. But the micro prisms work just fine in those cases. So, keep using your FM and all those issues will be come fast work around.
Yeah, black out with the split image focusing aid. Hence, I began to switch to Type E focusing screen on all my Nikon SLR & DSLR since then. Thus, I use my FE2 with MD-12, MR-11 & Type E.
I've had an FM-2 for a couple of years and it's a great camera for sure. Though the perfect camera in the series is secretly the FE-2, which has the electromechanical shutter, full meter readout in the viewfinder (not just the red + and - lights), Automatic fstip priority exposure (I never use it but it's quite accurate), 1/4000 max speed, same great construction and usability of the other cameras in the series. These were really workhorses. As a fellow glasses user, I suggest, if you didn't already, to ditch the half-image ground glass and go "naked" with the simple screen glass (it should be the K screen). It helps alot looking at your composition and it features a clearly demarcated line showing the center-weighted zone affecting the internal meter.
-I owned several Pentax cameras in the 1970’s : Pentax Spotmatic, Pentax Spotmatic 11, and the Pentax ME. ---They are beautiful cameras and the nicest looking of all cameras. --BUT, they are not as sturdy as the Nikons. Nikons are not “pretty” but they are extremely rugged. They rarely break with normal use or even abnormal use. RS. Canada
I had the same eye releif issue too having to look around to get all the info. I got myself a 19mm screw in diopter which replaced my spec when shooting. As a left eye shooter the LEDs on the right are ideal and unlike with the FE everything is always easy to see even in low light.
I’m just collecting old cameras with 100% intention on using every one I get. Got an F3 last week and a FM today. Probably pick a Pentax k1000 and a canon Ae-1 program at some point. I’m really enjoying film right now.
I don't have any issues with my FM... I got it used a few years ago... It's a bit beat up... And I really like it... It works fine for the kind of photography I do... That's it... 👍
I initially bought a FM to back up my F2A over 45 years ago but quickly dumped it for a FE2 as soon as it came out. As well, The FM, FE2, etc. weren't friendly towards the left eye dominant photographers without the motor drive to bypass the film advance lever issue.
I think the biggest issue with this camera is the mirror shake. Maybe it's just me, but anything under 1/60s is kinda blurry to me. Never had that issue with my trusty Canon FTb, I guess the extra weight helped? Also the DOF preview is a pain to use, I have to push it way to hard just to get it preview properly. Again, Canon has a very useful switch that are way easier to operate. On the bright side, I love using Nikkor glasses. They are tact sharp and lovely.
You should start searching for corrective lens for viewfinder ASAP, given that lens exists for your respective diopter. BTW, shutter on the FM (later versions and FM2 at least) can be fired even if advance leaver is closed, given that you fire the camera via MD11 or MD12 motor winder. I know, it makes the camera way bigger, but you had to know...
The thing that irritated me about the FM I used to have is that the lever had to be out to the 45 degree position to unlock the shutter, which interfered with my glasses and how I wanted to grip the camera. I always thought the Olympus OM1 had a better design in this respect because you could leave the lever flush with the body , and choose to activate the meter or not with a separate switch. The FM is still a fantastic camera though, and I wish I’d kept it. Thanks for making your videos, they are great.
Thank you for the review. Seems you have an early (first) version of the Nikon FM. Later (second) versions of the FM (I do NOT mean FM2, FM2N, ...) have another shutter release button design without the locking mechanism. The release button is locked when the film advance lever is in its rest position.
Yes! That’s correct! The earliest version have a serial number that starts with 2, and have a knurled locking shutter cowl. Later versions have the integrated lock you mentioned, with serial numbers starting with 3.
Bought my house shooting an fm2 - its fine - 1/250 flash is the important thing f3 doesnt have. FM2 motor drives are trash, throw it out now - concentrate on the subject to make good photos. better use a digital camera and dont be held back by not seeing what you are doing
![Дон ДОН, Алаудинов и СБЕЖАВШИЕ из под Курска ахматовцы 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dEfCf5IK26Q/mqdefault.jpg)
I have had my FM for over 40 years. It still works great. Now that I'm older sometimes I need my glasses too. When I am looking through the view finder I compose the shot, check focus, check s stop/ f stop. To make sure the focal plan that I want is in focus and shutter and desired shutter speed. That's it. If the exposure is where I want. Then there is the composition. The same no matter what camera in use. One thing that gets in my way sometimes is the split image focusing some of my lenses don't like the split image. But the micro prisms work just fine in those cases. So, keep using your FM and all those issues will be come fast work around.
Yeah, black out with the split image focusing aid. Hence, I began to switch to Type E focusing screen on all my Nikon SLR & DSLR since then. Thus, I use my FE2 with MD-12, MR-11 & Type E.
I've had an FM-2 for a couple of years and it's a great camera for sure.
Though the perfect camera in the series is secretly the FE-2, which has the electromechanical shutter, full meter readout in the viewfinder (not just the red + and - lights), Automatic fstip priority exposure (I never use it but it's quite accurate), 1/4000 max speed, same great construction and usability of the other cameras in the series.
These were really workhorses.
As a fellow glasses user, I suggest, if you didn't already, to ditch the half-image ground glass and go "naked" with the simple screen glass (it should be the K screen). It helps alot looking at your composition and it features a clearly demarcated line showing the center-weighted zone affecting the internal meter.
-I owned several Pentax cameras in the 1970’s : Pentax Spotmatic, Pentax Spotmatic 11, and the Pentax ME. ---They are beautiful cameras and the nicest looking of all cameras.
--BUT, they are not as sturdy as the Nikons. Nikons are not “pretty” but they are extremely rugged. They rarely break with normal use or even abnormal use.
RS. Canada
The Nikon FM is a wonderful instrument. I own several Nikons. Very sturdy cameras.
I had the same eye releif issue too having to look around to get all the info. I got myself a 19mm screw in diopter which replaced my spec when shooting. As a left eye shooter the LEDs on the right are ideal and unlike with the FE everything is always easy to see even in low light.
Link for the adapter?
I’m just collecting old cameras with 100% intention on using every one I get. Got an F3 last week and a FM today. Probably pick a Pentax k1000 and a canon Ae-1 program at some point. I’m really enjoying film right now.
I don't have any issues with my FM... I got it used a few years ago... It's a bit beat up... And I really like it... It works fine for the kind of photography I do... That's it... 👍
Fun video. Keep making great videos.
RS. Canada
I initially bought a FM to back up my F2A over 45 years ago but quickly dumped it for a FE2 as soon as it came out. As well, The FM, FE2, etc. weren't friendly towards the left eye dominant photographers without the motor drive to bypass the film advance lever issue.
I think the biggest issue with this camera is the mirror shake. Maybe it's just me, but anything under 1/60s is kinda blurry to me. Never had that issue with my trusty Canon FTb, I guess the extra weight helped? Also the DOF preview is a pain to use, I have to push it way to hard just to get it preview properly. Again, Canon has a very useful switch that are way easier to operate. On the bright side, I love using Nikkor glasses. They are tact sharp and lovely.
You're still making videos and I'm here for it
You should start searching for corrective lens for viewfinder ASAP, given that lens exists for your respective diopter.
BTW, shutter on the FM (later versions and FM2 at least) can be fired even if advance leaver is closed, given that you fire the camera via MD11 or MD12 motor winder. I know, it makes the camera way bigger, but you had to know...
The thing that irritated me about the FM I used to have is that the lever had to be out to the 45 degree position to unlock the shutter, which interfered with my glasses and how I wanted to grip the camera. I always thought the Olympus OM1 had a better design in this respect because you could leave the lever flush with the body , and choose to activate the meter or not with a separate switch. The FM is still a fantastic camera though, and I wish I’d kept it. Thanks for making your videos, they are great.
Thank you for the review.
Seems you have an early (first) version of the Nikon FM. Later (second) versions of the FM (I do NOT mean FM2, FM2N, ...) have another shutter release button design without the locking mechanism. The release button is locked when the film advance lever is in its rest position.
Yes! That’s correct! The earliest version have a serial number that starts with 2, and have a knurled locking shutter cowl. Later versions have the integrated lock you mentioned, with serial numbers starting with 3.
i think i prefer the nikon f2 over the fm, having had experience with both.
I can definitely see the appeal.
Bought my house shooting an fm2 - its fine - 1/250 flash is the important thing f3 doesnt have. FM2 motor drives are trash, throw it out now - concentrate on the subject to make good photos. better use a digital camera and dont be held back by not seeing what you are doing
For glasses : Buy a TLR ROLLEI ... you will thank me.
Definitely adding one to the list.