That fixed my problem I was having with my Onan 5000 it all started after I serviced it following manufacture requirements of adding two quarts of oil it would run fine for 30 minutes then shut off I would have to wait 30-45 minutes to restart it then it would only run for 5 minutes and shut off again after watching your video and before taking it to the shop I drained 1/2 quart of oil ran it all the way home 3 hours and its still running great Thanks for posting your video!!
So awesome I'm happy to hear it and I plan on making another video next week maybe 2 and thanks for the feedback, in times like this people do not need a massive mechanic bill lol.
THIS IS HOW I FIXED MINE, IN THE CASE OF.... "I CAN'T START MY GENERATOR" It's has been two years since last time it was running, so I started by checking oil level full at gen dipstick (it won't start if low oil because of sensors) then I checked gasoline more than 1\4 tank in the RV (also safety sensors), sparkplug checked for good spark, also checked the manual reset circuit braker ( to be ON) at front motorhome engine compartment for 12v current to the generator to be able to start it, also cleaned the carburetor and even installed new one but same situation, then checked wires and found some has been chewed like gum by rats at the back of starting switch generator panel so I replaced them, at this time the generator started but stay running only by keep pushing the switch on all the time, so then finally I knew it was internal electrical problem from the engine itself, so I took the generator out from my RV to work in my garage, (I did this by myself with some tools and old Mayan tricks ) lol, it's really heavy for one person. I disassemble the unit at my garage and started by removing the cover, then the cooling fan or flywheel unit (it's 2 items in one) until finally I was at the gen rotor and brushes assembly area and this is what I found: one more wire chewed by filthy rats plus the stinky rat nest in the middle of the generator motor coil, I fixed the wire and sanded the commutator copper contacts where the brushes are sitting becouse they were real duty with old urine from the rats, and of course I got rid off the stinky nest, lol!!! Then I assembled everything back together and... bingo it's runing like a champion!!! For this project materials involved was about $60.00 including an aftermarket new carburetor and an harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller (available at any auto parts for $25.00) to pull the aluminum fan out and (flywheel). Just picture this: (Any gasoline engine run smooth if gasoline and DC current aren't interrupted) so following this important principle you'll always find the problem to be fixed. Also if you have a onan microlite 4000 like mine, don't run it for more than a minute without the cover because you'll cook the engine real fast, also keep the eye on the aluminium fan and your fingers after cranking it in case you missing one or two members...just kidding, lol!!! After testing the gen with the help of a gasoline container, a piece of hose and 12v battery, I did put the air cooling assembly back and the rest of components including the cover, then it was ready to be installed at my RV. Once the gen was installed back at my motorhome I started it to be tested for 120v electricity but not before flipping the AC circuit switch (on) at the gen starting control panel (sometimes hiding under or around the panel) to be able to transfer power to my RV GFCI main outlet and electric panel as well, my motorhome it's equipped with GFCI so I reset it and tested for green led light indicating power is ready at my main breakers panel, so I turned my main breaker (on) along the others ones but no power was present at my breaker main switch (faulty main braker) so I flipped it many times, sometimes you can make it work again, mine did work, lol!!! I'm happy because everything works now including the refrigerator for cold drinks and AC for this crazy summer, lol! Later I'll buy me a new main braker, for now this is a resurrected generator story that needed to be shared. If this can help eaven one person to save time and $$$ it'll make me more happy, thanks for reading!!!
Sir, I think you might be right as soon as you told me this in your video, I went out and checked my oil levels and it was below the add line I figure I might need a quart or below however, I’m probably not gonna add any oil. I’m going to do an oil change and then add what I need to do to get it just about the add line just as you recommended
Other videos say that the plastic dipstick is incorrect and that the oil level should be half-way below the add and the full lines. Most RVers get the 10 minute later shut down because the oil is filled to the "full" line. P.S. My Onan RV generator plastic dip stuck has a "FULL" line and a "Add" line. Maybe you only have the "Add" line on your dipstick?
I leveled the RV, drained the oil for 20 minutes and put in exactly 1.5 liters ( 1.6 quarts ) as called for in the manual. The clean oil goes 3/4 up the crossed section of the dip stick with the gen cold and 75 deg outside. So what amount of oil puts the level at 1/4 up the crossed section of the dip stick as recommended here? Oil expands when hot. Raise the temp 100 C and it expands about 7%. As these are air cooled and not temperature regulated, the expansion of the oil is likely the problem. Reducing 1.5 liters by 7 percent gives you 1.4 liters. I will probably go with that.
My generator was up to the fill line and would only run for a half hour 100 degree day with the AC running before shutting off. Then it wouldn't start. Started up just fine the next day like there wasn't a problem but I didn't let it run long. I lowered my oil level yesterday just to where it is barely touching the dipstick and my Generator ran for an hour with the AC on in 100 degree weather before shutting off. And again it wouldn't start. I didn't get any warning lights yesterday. Think maybe my oil level is too low? I even had my compartment door open the whole time it was running. What are your thoughts. Thanks in advance. I about ready to go buy a Predator 3500 and rip the Onan out of my Toy Hauler.
Yes I agree it also reacted the same way with the low oil for me so too much or not enough is the same issue. If add a little at a time to find the sweet spot I think it would work. After it runs for 10 minutes shut it down and see if a bunch of bubbles are coming up I think that gives it a false low oil reading which would give the same result with the low oil.
The issue with this generator is the factory fill line is to full, the reason I say that is because it creates bubbles after a few minutes causing a false low oil reading so I dropped mine about a quarter inch under the fill line and it's still running like a champ.
Just an update generator has been doing great, last week I hooked up a 50 amp outlet to the garage to not use the generator but I used it up to 12 hours a day and let it run all night into the next day. This is because I'm doing a full 360 flip on this 2004 tiffin allegro I will post a video explaining the flip but it's looking great, I'll have before and afters.
Great video !!! Is true i change to many things carburetor, fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, the all tune-up and works but die after 30 or 40min ??? Yes, is true check the oil or change the oil sensor now when i parking i level my rv before run my generator = works great. Thank you have new subscriber. 👍
That's great news, I'm just glad to be able to help anyone save a dollar to be able to balance a budget I'm really glad to hear it. I need to make a couple more videos actually. Thank you!
Gen ran about 10 minutes and quit. It was way too full and I video recorded taking the cap off for the customer ... a 4000 and drained and filled with almost 1.5 qts. It was about 3/16 above the top of the add notch so sucked some out and set it at the top. Both times it cranked not starting. I took the filter off and used a tad of carb choke spray and couldn't tell if it tried or not. I am going to take the hose off the carb bowl and see if anything comes out. I mentioned to the customer that it could also be the motorhome gas tank is too low.. looking like about two line widths below a quarter of a tank. Maybe I'll put 5 gallons in and retest ... pb
@@tional5266 No, it's not the circuit board. Read the manual and learn how to use the built in diagnostics. I know what the problem is but first you need to read the manual. You can drain a third of the oil out if you like and that may mask the problem, but it won't fix it and you'll damage the engine. Oh, the fix costs NOTHING !!
So, if the oil sensor shuts it down, what shuts it down when there is no sensor, like mine? For those that do have a sensor, it's a low oil sensor. Nothing more. Oil sensors don't know and don't care about oil color or bubbles. Read the manual on how to use the primer. You didn't even mention checking the codes.
As far as the codes this video would be more for somebody to try if they are stuck in a situation where they do not have a code reader in pocket without paying a fortune to possibly not resolve the problem. I understand a sensor does not detect bubbles but bubbles do not have much mass, so the idea is the "possibility" that the sensor gets false reading as low oil because bubbles manipulate the sensor. This video is for those who do have a sensor so In your case is it simply because you do not have a sensor connected? I do not know what is your code reader telling you? I would further investigate the situation, unfortunately I have not dealt with this. I personally would start with fresh oil at this level if possible just for the fact that fresh oil is good and low oil level is a proven issue. I understand also the sensor does not tell you the color so if it's dark or suspected old I would change it because the cleaner the oil the better. I feel like dirty oil could possibly cause a false reading because if it is thicker maybe more air is trapped around the sensor. What are the symptoms in process that occur in your situation perhaps I could help?
I did not ask if the code reader was built in I asked what your code reader told you and I do not need a manual clearly I got it running without it. It looks like you should simply practice what you preach, yours is not running mine is lol.
@@mrfixit80 Mine was built without a low oil sensor. The oil is always clean. It doesn't matter where someone is if they have trouble since the trouble code reader is built in and the MANUAL explains how to use it and describes each code. This should always be the obvious first step. Mine runs just fine and always has and has the proper amount of oil in it, hence, no codes. Read the manual.
As I said before mine did not have a manual I bought it used In many cases you need to survive you may not have a working code reader or power to power the code reader, so this channel is clearly not for you.
Dude I don’t know you but I KNOW I Love You ❤️ WORKS LIKE A CHAMP- thank you 🙏
That fixed my problem I was having with my Onan 5000 it all started after I serviced it following manufacture requirements of adding two quarts of oil it would run fine for 30 minutes then shut off I would have to wait 30-45 minutes to restart it then it would only run for 5 minutes and shut off again after watching your video and before taking it to the shop I drained 1/2 quart of oil ran it all the way home 3 hours and its still running great Thanks for posting your video!!
So awesome I'm happy to hear it and I plan on making another video next week maybe 2 and thanks for the feedback, in times like this people do not need a massive mechanic bill lol.
Mine still shuts down with only 1.5 quarts
THIS IS HOW I FIXED MINE, IN THE CASE OF....
"I CAN'T START MY GENERATOR"
It's has been two years since last time it was running, so I started by checking oil level full at gen dipstick (it won't start if low oil because of sensors) then I checked gasoline more than 1\4 tank in the RV (also safety sensors), sparkplug checked for good spark, also checked the manual reset circuit braker ( to be ON) at front motorhome engine compartment for 12v current to the generator to be able to start it, also cleaned the carburetor and even installed new one but same situation, then checked wires and found some has been chewed like gum by rats at the back of starting switch generator panel so I replaced them, at this time the generator started but stay running only by keep pushing the switch on all the time, so then finally I knew it was internal electrical problem from the engine itself, so I took the generator out from my RV to work in my garage, (I did this by myself with some tools and old Mayan tricks ) lol, it's really heavy for one person.
I disassemble the unit at my garage and started by removing the cover, then the cooling fan or flywheel unit (it's 2 items in one) until finally I was at the gen rotor and brushes assembly area and this is what I found: one more wire chewed by filthy rats plus the stinky rat nest in the middle of the generator motor coil, I fixed the wire and sanded the commutator copper contacts where the brushes are sitting becouse they were real duty with old urine from the rats, and of course I got rid off the stinky nest, lol!!!
Then I assembled everything back together and... bingo it's runing like a champion!!!
For this project materials involved was about $60.00 including an aftermarket new carburetor and an harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller (available at any auto parts for $25.00) to pull the aluminum fan out and (flywheel).
Just picture this: (Any gasoline engine run smooth if gasoline and DC current aren't interrupted) so following this important principle you'll always find the problem to be fixed.
Also if you have a onan microlite 4000 like mine, don't run it for more than a minute without the cover because you'll cook the engine real fast, also keep the eye on the aluminium fan and your fingers after cranking it in case you missing one or two members...just kidding, lol!!!
After testing the gen with the help of a gasoline container, a piece of hose and 12v battery, I did put the air cooling assembly back and the rest of components including the cover, then it was ready to be installed at my RV.
Once the gen was installed back at my motorhome I started it to be tested for 120v electricity but not before flipping the AC circuit switch (on) at the gen starting control panel (sometimes hiding under or around the panel) to be able to transfer power to my RV GFCI main outlet and electric panel as well, my motorhome it's equipped with GFCI so I reset it and tested for green led light indicating power is ready at my main breakers panel, so I turned my main breaker (on) along the others ones but no power was present at my breaker main switch (faulty main braker) so I flipped it many times, sometimes you can make it work again, mine did work, lol!!!
I'm happy because everything works now including the refrigerator for cold drinks and AC for this crazy summer, lol! Later I'll buy me a new main braker, for now this is a resurrected generator story that needed to be shared.
If this can help eaven one person to save time and $$$ it'll make me more happy, thanks for reading!!!
Thank you for the video. Seems to have worked for mine
Sir, I think you might be right as soon as you told me this in your video, I went out and checked my oil levels and it was below the add line I figure I might need a quart or below however, I’m probably not gonna add any oil. I’m going to do an oil change and then add what I need to do to get it just about the add line just as you recommended
Other videos say that the plastic dipstick is incorrect and that the oil level should be half-way below the add and the full lines. Most RVers get the 10 minute later shut down because the oil is filled to the "full" line.
P.S. My Onan RV generator plastic dip stuck has a "FULL" line and a "Add" line. Maybe you only have the "Add" line on your dipstick?
I leveled the RV, drained the oil for 20 minutes and put in exactly 1.5 liters ( 1.6 quarts ) as called for in the manual. The clean oil goes 3/4 up the crossed section of the dip stick with the gen cold and 75 deg outside. So what amount of oil puts the level at 1/4 up the crossed section of the dip stick as recommended here? Oil expands when hot. Raise the temp 100 C and it expands about 7%. As these are air cooled and not temperature regulated, the expansion of the oil is likely the problem. Reducing 1.5 liters by 7 percent gives you 1.4 liters. I will probably go with that.
We have this issue.. Gonna let my hubby know!!
Great, I hope it works if not let me know
Seems pretty common
Im going to try it , got this problem.
My generator was up to the fill line and would only run for a half hour 100 degree day with the AC running before shutting off. Then it wouldn't start. Started up just fine the next day like there wasn't a problem but I didn't let it run long. I lowered my oil level yesterday just to where it is barely touching the dipstick and my Generator ran for an hour with the AC on in 100 degree weather before shutting off. And again it wouldn't start. I didn't get any warning lights yesterday. Think maybe my oil level is too low? I even had my compartment door open the whole time it was running. What are your thoughts. Thanks in advance. I about ready to go buy a Predator 3500 and rip the Onan out of my Toy Hauler.
Yes I agree it also reacted the same way with the low oil for me so too much or not enough is the same issue. If add a little at a time to find the sweet spot I think it would work. After it runs for 10 minutes shut it down and see if a bunch of bubbles are coming up I think that gives it a false low oil reading which would give the same result with the low oil.
@@mrfixit80 Thank you Sir. Have a great Weekend
You too man hope this works mine is still good im going to do a fridge video probably monday for a working freezer but the fridge wont cool lol.
You need the door on or it will over heat and i would add a lil more oil to the fill line
The issue with this generator is the factory fill line is to full, the reason I say that is because it creates bubbles after a few minutes causing a false low oil reading so I dropped mine about a quarter inch under the fill line and it's still running like a champ.
Just an update generator has been doing great, last week I hooked up a 50 amp outlet to the garage to not use the generator but I used it up to 12 hours a day and let it run all night into the next day. This is because I'm doing a full 360 flip on this 2004 tiffin allegro I will post a video explaining the flip but it's looking great, I'll have before and afters.
thanks for the help cant wait to drain some oil and try
17 minutes to say check your oil to this level. there 1 minute info, and no rambling.
Great video !!! Is true i change to many things carburetor, fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, the all tune-up and works but die after 30 or 40min ??? Yes, is true check the oil or change the oil sensor now when i parking i level my rv before run my generator = works great. Thank you have new subscriber. 👍
That's great news, I'm just glad to be able to help anyone save a dollar to be able to balance a budget I'm really glad to hear it. I need to make a couple more videos actually. Thank you!
Overfill oil causes oil to foam up the air bubbles cause drop in oil pressure
Gen ran about 10 minutes and quit. It was way too full and I video recorded taking the cap off for the customer ... a 4000 and drained and filled with almost 1.5 qts. It was about 3/16 above the top of the add notch so sucked some out and set it at the top. Both times it cranked not starting. I took the filter off and used a tad of carb choke spray and couldn't tell if it tried or not. I am going to take the hose off the carb bowl and see if anything comes out. I mentioned to the customer that it could also be the motorhome gas tank is too low.. looking like about two line widths below a quarter of a tank. Maybe I'll put 5 gallons in and retest ... pb
We did the oil fix, seemed to help but now it dies the second you put a load on the system (turn on AC) it dies..trying everything
Do you let it run for cat least 5 minutes before turning any power on? It will kick out otherwise.
Yes, tried pretty much everything, brother in law says needs a new moth board according to testing device..idk
Sorry for the late reply but yeah sounds like that very well could be the issue then, they are not horrible to change out.
@@tional5266 No, it's not the circuit board. Read the manual and learn how to use the built in diagnostics. I know what the problem is but first you need to read the manual. You can drain a third of the oil out if you like and that may mask the problem, but it won't fix it and you'll damage the engine.
Oh, the fix costs NOTHING !!
@@trustme7731 I don't have the manual but having the same issue can you tell me how to fix this issue please
Unfortunately didn't fix it for me. It still shuts off. Can run for 2 hours and then shut off.
U figure it out yet I'm having same issue
@@johnmartin3735 i took it to a guy and he said it was my fuel pump. and the type of oil was wrong. i guess it was tripping the sensor.
This a bunch of bull did that change carb changed full pump added extra filters change plugs and guess what still same problem you all have been lucky
So, if the oil sensor shuts it down, what shuts it down when there is no sensor, like mine?
For those that do have a sensor, it's a low oil sensor. Nothing more.
Oil sensors don't know and don't care about oil color or bubbles.
Read the manual on how to use the primer.
You didn't even mention checking the codes.
As far as the codes this video would be more for somebody to try if they are stuck in a situation where they do not have a code reader in pocket without paying a fortune to possibly not resolve the problem. I understand a sensor does not detect bubbles but bubbles do not have much mass, so the idea is the "possibility" that the sensor gets false reading as low oil because bubbles manipulate the sensor. This video is for those who do have a sensor so In your case is it simply because you do not have a sensor connected? I do not know what is your code reader telling you? I would further investigate the situation, unfortunately I have not dealt with this. I personally would start with fresh oil at this level if possible just for the fact that fresh oil is good and low oil level is a proven issue. I understand also the sensor does not tell you the color so if it's dark or suspected old I would change it because the cleaner the oil the better. I feel like dirty oil could possibly cause a false reading because if it is thicker maybe more air is trapped around the sensor. What are the symptoms in process that occur in your situation perhaps I could help?
@@mrfixit80 The code reader is built in. Read the manual.
I did not ask if the code reader was built in I asked what your code reader told you and I do not need a manual clearly I got it running without it. It looks like you should simply practice what you preach, yours is not running mine is lol.
@@mrfixit80 Mine was built without a low oil sensor.
The oil is always clean.
It doesn't matter where someone is if they have trouble since the trouble code reader is built in and the MANUAL explains how to use it and describes each code. This should always be the obvious first step.
Mine runs just fine and always has and has the proper amount of oil in it, hence, no codes.
Read the manual.
As I said before mine did not have a manual I bought it used In many cases you need to survive you may not have a working code reader or power to power the code reader, so this channel is clearly not for you.
Lmao
Lmao