Thanks Mark! really appreciate the feedback. These videos take longer to make and the opportunities arent as common, but for some reason I really enjoy watching technical vids. So I enjoy making my own too!
Amazing video... watched a few now and this is the best, clear visual and descriptive video I have seen... I don't know how this hasn't blown up in popularity yet! It made this whole process sound so much more approachable and less intimidating.
Glad it was helpful! And thank you so much for those kind words! I was trying to keep it simple because I too had to watch multiple videos to properly understand it, and I thought "If I wanted to learn, what would I want to see?"
@@OnTwoWheels excellent job at translating that into a video. As a guy with some mechanical knowledge I was intimidated to check the clearances myself for many reasons, like what if it needed a shim how am I sure I don't blow the motor by doing it wrong... was just going to send it to a shop which costs lots and your bike is down for a week or so.... You even showing how shims works..... again great job thanks.
Very well explained, the hardest part on my V Strom was removing the cam chain tensioner, (very limited access). Just to be sure I don't lose timing I cable tie the timing chain to the sprocket.
Thanks! That's true, refitting the tension er on the DRZ wasn't easy either it too is in a tricky spot and applying enough pressure on the spring/bolt to catch a thread is quite a task!
Is there any possibility of the valve bucket being worn through contact with the camb lobe? Is there any way of checking its thickness or serviceability?
Glad it was helpful! It was a learning process for me too, and when I was learning it I couldn't find any detailed concise videos. So I thought I'll make one.
I've had a lot of positive feedback on this; and been asked for more detailed videos such as this. Do you have any suggestions, or anything particular you would like to see?
Nice work, very clear video. I always check valve clearance after re-torquing the cylinder head, especially if the head bolts turn that much, just in case. That’s more of an issue with the old pushrod engines, but even with OHC I check for movement.
Great point! In fact I got started thinking I need to replace gaskets. But when the head-bolts turned that much , I thought I'll tighten them and see if it works. And it did!
You might have forgotten to mention the valve chain tensioner adjustment how to. Thanks for letting us know how to check the valves. Can you tell a difference after adjusting? Thanks again
I actually have an automatic CC tensioner. And the post 2004 ACCT isn't failure prone like the ones before, and it does a better job at maintaining the right tension all the time, as opposed to a Manual CC tensioner.
As much as I'd like to help, it's not something I'm too familiar with. I've not played around with the jetting, but I would ASSUME that since the air is thinner up there you'd have to use a jet that's smaller?
Hi, my name is Arnold, and I own a 2005 DRZ400s. I have a valve question, and I was wondering if you could help me. I checked the clearance on the intake valves, and both are within specifications. However, the clearance on both exhaust valves is 0.178 mm, and they need to be between 0.2 mm and 0.3 mm according to your video. Would you help me pick the proper shims to bring the exhaust valves back to the desired specifications please? Thank you!
Hey Arnold, I can type out the steps, but I'll do you one better! This is the very video that I watched to learn how to pick the new shim I needed. Basically, you take the difference needed, and look it up on the table to see how much bigger or smaller your new shim needs to to be. ua-cam.com/video/50At2VJN8vE/v-deo.html
You know whats strange with my drz is that I had 0 clearance on one of the intake valves, and already had the smallest shim in there and no clearance, yet it would still start first time with no problems! I got the valves replaced and the bike now has a lot more power than it had before. Just thought id mention that sometimes even with a completely stuffed valve, the drz starts reliably
That odd! I'm guessing it could mean that your valve length itself has changed. But if it's running fine and you dont have compression issues, live with it till you can't :D
@@OnTwoWheels yeah the valve was worn from I believe sand getting in to the intake. I got all four valves replaced and the valve seats machined for the new valves. Now they all have correct clearance with stock shim size, engine has more power now. 👍
@@slakk5093 wow if you machined them that's dedication. In my case, I got a valve lapping tool and some rubbing compound and did it myself. It probably wasn't as precise as yours, but it worked,!
A brilliant video very informative and love the tip about moving the camshafts to one side awesome! I,ll have a crack at mine now thank you for posting.
Thanks for taking the time to share this! I'm about to check mine for the first time. This will certainly help.
Hey mate, great video thank you !! Paul from the DRZ Owners Australia group 😉👍
Thanks Paul 👍
Hope you found it useful!!
Great video, very technical, straight forward and easy to understand. Well done mate 👍🏼
Thanks Mark! really appreciate the feedback. These videos take longer to make and the opportunities arent as common, but for some reason I really enjoy watching technical vids. So I enjoy making my own too!
Excellent step by step process. Keep up the good work!
Yes, very useful video. I thank you for time.
The image at 5:00 made everything a lot easier to understand, thank you!
Thanks. Yeah, i figured a quick image would probably clear it u rather than me spend even more time explaining it :)
Amazing video... watched a few now and this is the best, clear visual and descriptive video I have seen... I don't know how this hasn't blown up in popularity yet! It made this whole process sound so much more approachable and less intimidating.
Glad it was helpful! And thank you so much for those kind words! I was trying to keep it simple because I too had to watch multiple videos to properly understand it, and I thought "If I wanted to learn, what would I want to see?"
@@OnTwoWheels excellent job at translating that into a video. As a guy with some mechanical knowledge I was intimidated to check the clearances myself for many reasons, like what if it needed a shim how am I sure I don't blow the motor by doing it wrong... was just going to send it to a shop which costs lots and your bike is down for a week or so.... You even showing how shims works..... again great job thanks.
Very well explained, the hardest part on my V Strom was removing the cam chain tensioner, (very limited access).
Just to be sure I don't lose timing I cable tie the timing chain to the sprocket.
Thanks!
That's true, refitting the tension er on the DRZ wasn't easy either it too is in a tricky spot and applying enough pressure on the spring/bolt to catch a thread is quite a task!
Mi Drz400e is hard to start and back fires once and while . But once warm it runs fine would you say maybe check the values are in spec thanks
Great video and nice drz, thanks buddy
Thanks!! Glad you found it useful!
Is there any possibility of the valve bucket being worn through contact with the camb lobe? Is there any way of checking its thickness or serviceability?
Excellent video! Thank you for filming the entire process.
Glad it was helpful! It was a learning process for me too, and when I was learning it I couldn't find any detailed concise videos. So I thought I'll make one.
I've had a lot of positive feedback on this; and been asked for more detailed videos such as this. Do you have any suggestions, or anything particular you would like to see?
hi mate that was pretty good cheers thank you well explained
Thanks mate. Glad you found it useful!
great video
Thanks Michael! Hope you found it useful!
Nice work, very clear video.
I always check valve clearance after re-torquing the cylinder head, especially if the head bolts turn that much, just in case. That’s more of an issue with the old pushrod engines, but even with OHC I check for movement.
Great point! In fact I got started thinking I need to replace gaskets. But when the head-bolts turned that much , I thought I'll tighten them and see if it works. And it did!
how to check if valvesare not leaking on drz 400
Great video FREN
Thanks! Hope it was helpful mate!
You might have forgotten to mention the valve chain tensioner adjustment how to. Thanks for letting us know how to check the valves. Can you tell a difference after adjusting?
Thanks again
I actually have an automatic CC tensioner. And the post 2004 ACCT isn't failure prone like the ones before, and it does a better job at maintaining the right tension all the time, as opposed to a Manual CC tensioner.
Nice one.
Thank you! Cheers!
Cool video. I was wondering what main jet would you recommend for riding at 3500 feet above sea level?
As much as I'd like to help, it's not something I'm too familiar with. I've not played around with the jetting, but I would ASSUME that since the air is thinner up there you'd have to use a jet that's smaller?
Hi, my name is Arnold, and I own a 2005 DRZ400s. I have a valve question, and I was wondering if you could help me. I checked the clearance on the intake valves, and both are within specifications. However, the clearance on both exhaust valves is 0.178 mm, and they need to be between 0.2 mm and 0.3 mm according to your video. Would you help me pick the proper shims to bring the exhaust valves back to the desired specifications please? Thank you!
Hey Arnold, I can type out the steps, but I'll do you one better!
This is the very video that I watched to learn how to pick the new shim I needed. Basically, you take the difference needed, and look it up on the table to see how much bigger or smaller your new shim needs to to be.
ua-cam.com/video/50At2VJN8vE/v-deo.html
Good job. Thank you.
Thanks for watching! Hope it helped!
You know whats strange with my drz is that I had 0 clearance on one of the intake valves, and already had the smallest shim in there and no clearance, yet it would still start first time with no problems! I got the valves replaced and the bike now has a lot more power than it had before. Just thought id mention that sometimes even with a completely stuffed valve, the drz starts reliably
That odd! I'm guessing it could mean that your valve length itself has changed. But if it's running fine and you dont have compression issues, live with it till you can't :D
@@OnTwoWheels yeah the valve was worn from I believe sand getting in to the intake. I got all four valves replaced and the valve seats machined for the new valves. Now they all have correct clearance with stock shim size, engine has more power now. 👍
@@slakk5093 wow if you machined them that's dedication. In my case, I got a valve lapping tool and some rubbing compound and did it myself. It probably wasn't as precise as yours, but it worked,!
A brilliant video very informative and love the tip about moving the camshafts to one side awesome! I,ll have a crack at mine now thank you for posting.
Glad you found it useful!!! All of these are learning moments IMO
It was pretty unusual to see a Sr Lankan guy riding dirt, but wrenching on one? thats as rare as Rocking Horse shit.
Thanks mate! I think knowing to work your bike is just as import as knowing to ride it!
You talk like you are from India
haha! That's interesting considering I'm not :D