I am finding a few problems with this method. I have been working with plastic laminate over the last 30 years, and what I have learned through schooling and from a cabinet shop is that there is a better way to apply laminate to a substrate. First of all, using the term Formica as a type of material is incorrect. Formica isn't what you apply to a substrate, it's plastic laminate, Formica is a brand name, in which one of their products is plastic laminate. As far as your method, the edges of the substrate are ALWAYS covered first. Then when the top is covered with laminate, the seam will be on the edge, not on the top. Having the seam on top can cause problems. Liquids from spills, or just washing the top can get into the seam and cause it to fail. It may take a long time for this to happen, but none the less, the seam should be on the side. Secondly, the heat you apply for the corners should not be in direct contact with the laminate. This can damage the protective layer of the laminate, and cause blistering, or burning the laminate. I wouldn't use an iron for this, instead, I would use a heat gun. I would also not recommend preforming the laminate to fit the radius. I have been taught to bend the laminate as you are adhering it to the substrate. Always start with an edge that is straight, then when you approach the radius, apply heat to the laminate prior to rolling it out. Heating the laminate can be a bit tricky, but most of the time, you can tell when the laminate gets a bit soft, soft enough to bend. If you are doing a lot of corners, you can use temperature indicating liquid like Tempilac, which comes in a variety of temperatures, depending on your needs. Once the laminate edges are put on, flush trim, and sand or flat file this until the top and bottom are flat. then when the top is glued on, this makes it much easier to flush trim and file. I would also recommend using a palm router, or laminate trim router to flush trim the laminate, it's much easier to use and you can get better results. I spent years working with these products, and teaching people how, why and when things are done a certain way. I only teach people on a one on one basis. I wish I had time to do a video, but that's never going to happen, I like the old school way. Teach, learn, make mistakes, learn from mistakes. Side by side, this is the best way.
Why question the guy’s methods when he very clearly explained in detail why he put the top laminate on first and the edges second? It was to match the same method used on the prefabricated top he installed for the vanity
@@rds333 I’m not saying what he did is the way a professional cabinetmaker would do it or is good practice. He did it that way for his own reasons and explained why. That’s all.
You mentioned that iron is about 300 degrees. Do you have a favorite setting? Is that cotton or polyester LOL. I guess you could use a non-contact IR thermometer. Have you ever held too long and melted the laminate surface?
He also does not tell you what formica bit he used ? That is the critical part. Sure we see the bearing, so is the blade cutter straight, or a crown. I also looked at mine and the top formica did not cover the side formica. It would make more sense to put the side formica in first and then use a straight blade router bit over the top and then put the formica top on last so when you cut around the table top using the crown blade cutter the side formica will join with the top formica and it will look better and more sealed. Formica comes in several thicknesses.
A problem you could have doing edges first on this project is keeping the edges perfectly square to the top while sanding the radius corners. If they are not perfectly square you will run into trouble with the router. Doing the top 1st will give you a perfect surface for your side trimming.
@@whaahhh A way to get around that is to use a hard board template of the appropriate radius and then route the corner. This should keep it square. Then you can do the edge laminate first as is recommended.
Nice job. I needed to see how to do a radius. Glad to see I’m not the only old guy that wears crocs with socks.
I am finding a few problems with this method. I have been working with plastic laminate over the last 30 years, and what I have learned through schooling and from a cabinet shop is that there is a better way to apply laminate to a substrate. First of all, using the term Formica as a type of material is incorrect. Formica isn't what you apply to a substrate, it's plastic laminate, Formica is a brand name, in which one of their products is plastic laminate. As far as your method, the edges of the substrate are ALWAYS covered first. Then when the top is covered with laminate, the seam will be on the edge, not on the top. Having the seam on top can cause problems. Liquids from spills, or just washing the top can get into the seam and cause it to fail. It may take a long time for this to happen, but none the less, the seam should be on the side. Secondly, the heat you apply for the corners should not be in direct contact with the laminate. This can damage the protective layer of the laminate, and cause blistering, or burning the laminate. I wouldn't use an iron for this, instead, I would use a heat gun. I would also not recommend preforming the laminate to fit the radius. I have been taught to bend the laminate as you are adhering it to the substrate. Always start with an edge that is straight, then when you approach the radius, apply heat to the laminate prior to rolling it out. Heating the laminate can be a bit tricky, but most of the time, you can tell when the laminate gets a bit soft, soft enough to bend. If you are doing a lot of corners, you can use temperature indicating liquid like Tempilac, which comes in a variety of temperatures, depending on your needs. Once the laminate edges are put on, flush trim, and sand or flat file this until the top and bottom are flat. then when the top is glued on, this makes it much easier to flush trim and file. I would also recommend using a palm router, or laminate trim router to flush trim the laminate, it's much easier to use and you can get better results. I spent years working with these products, and teaching people how, why and when things are done a certain way. I only teach people on a one on one basis. I wish I had time to do a video, but that's never going to happen, I like the old school way. Teach, learn, make mistakes, learn from mistakes. Side by side, this is the best way.
Why question the guy’s methods when he very clearly explained in detail why he put the top laminate on first and the edges second? It was to match the same method used on the prefabricated top he installed for the vanity
@@jimcurry5458 This method is wrong, even if you are trying g to match it. Ask any cabinetmaker or laminate fabricator.
@@rds333 I’m not saying what he did is the way a professional cabinetmaker would do it or is good practice. He did it that way for his own reasons and explained why. That’s all.
@@jimcurry5458 ok, got it. As long as people realize that not everything can be learned by watching UA-cam videos. Your point is taken.
Good job Rodney. . . . Thanks Brother for your time . . . .
Great job, I looked high and low for this. I had done a small radius that turned out not that good, I have a 3 inch one that I will try.
Just what I was looking for thanks for sharing 👍
I thought you always cut left to right with a router?
Great video! Thank you!
You mentioned that iron is about 300 degrees. Do you have a favorite setting? Is that cotton or polyester LOL. I guess you could use a non-contact IR thermometer. Have you ever held too long and melted the laminate surface?
Dell Anderson the guys wearing crocks man, he’s a pro
Thank you these are the instructions I needed!
If you follow this method, you may run into problems.
Wouldnt the self edge hide better if you put it on first and then the top?
He did mention that at 2:03
Thank you
its easy to do this on a square edge try a post formed edge
It doesn't matter if the end caps have to be applied after the top.
He also does not tell you what formica bit he used ? That is the critical part. Sure we see the bearing, so is the blade cutter straight, or a crown. I also looked at mine and the top formica did not cover the side formica. It would make more sense to put the side formica in first and then use a straight blade router bit over the top and then put the formica top on last so when you cut around the table top using the crown blade cutter the side formica will join with the top formica and it will look better and more sealed.
Formica comes in several thicknesses.
He said why the top was on first. This was a scrap piece of post formed formica countertop he bought at Lowes. The top was already on it.
Good job. I always did the edges first!
Thanks, I like to do the edges first to, but did this so they matched an existing counter that was done this way.
Yeah it’s recommended to do edges first. Keeps moisture out from the back of the sheet
A problem you could have doing edges first on this project is keeping the edges perfectly square to the top while sanding the radius corners. If they are not perfectly square you will run into trouble with the router. Doing the top 1st will give you a perfect surface for your side trimming.
@@whaahhh A way to get around that is to use a hard board template of the appropriate radius and then route the corner. This should keep it square. Then you can do the edge laminate first as is recommended.
Great Job...
I would like to bend it for 90 degree. whether I can be done??
Take note. Professionals know that if you want your laminate edges to last longer. You apply the edging first, then the top.
He said why. This was a scrap piece of post formed formica so the top was already on it. He said in the video. Did you miss that part