The 2/0 trim loop chain also has more friction against the ground because of the way it’s cut it will catch against a lot of stuff which will also make it harder for the animal to pull
Damn shame, what's become of trapping! I trapped the Adirondacks for 30 years without any swivels, Nothing bigger than a #2, and 16"x3/8" stakes. Drags back then were made of 3/16" steel rod,and nothing more. Only lost one when the critter ran down a logging road to a paved road.
If you have a good quality drag, such as a Saber Tooth Drag, doesn't require as much. Have to use some judgment. Obviously,, a picked soy bean field would not be recommended, however a picked cornfield would probably work.
Just the info I have been looking for! I am going to set up some traps with drags for next season, seems like they will work well in deep snow/frozen ground conditions.
What is the purpose of the extra little round rod welded on top of the 1/2 x 1 drag with spikes. I really can't see where it adds or needs extra strength???
Thanks for the tip on the #2 twinloop chain. Definitely cheaper than using straight link.
Good to hear the twin loop works good. I have a box full and was wondering how I could use it.
Appreciate the advice Chrlie you all know your stuff about trapping. And you all are a great bunch of people.
i like quick links on the last swivel on my trap i can use a cable stake or change it out to a drag in seconds
Split rings are so much faster and don’t get gummed up with wax
Your advice is always greatly appreciated can't wait till the next video
The 2/0 trim loop chain also has more friction against the ground because of the way it’s cut it will catch against a lot of stuff which will also make it harder for the animal to pull
Damn shame, what's become of trapping! I trapped the Adirondacks for 30 years without any swivels, Nothing bigger than a #2, and 16"x3/8" stakes. Drags back then were made of 3/16" steel rod,and nothing more. Only lost one when the critter ran down a logging road to a paved road.
Thanks for sharing Charlie
Thank you! Great info.
I run 10-12 foot of chain for wolves, for coyote/bobcat I'm running 6 foot of chain on my drags
Nice show how thick of cover do you need to be able to make sure it doesn't go far
If you have a good quality drag, such as a Saber Tooth Drag, doesn't require as much. Have to use some judgment. Obviously,, a picked soy bean field would not be recommended, however a picked cornfield would probably work.
Cool I'll have to try them out thanks
Just the info I have been looking for! I am going to set up some traps with drags for next season, seems like they will work well in deep snow/frozen ground conditions.
What is the purpose of the extra little round rod welded on top of the 1/2 x 1 drag with spikes. I really can't see where it adds or needs extra strength???
it is to help keep the chain from entangling on the drag
Great vid!!!!!!!!
Machined chain don't tangle up. Less stress on the day.
Do I need a shock spring with a drag?
I think it's a good idea to have a shock spring on the trap chain, I don't think it is necessary to have it on the drag chain
This is what I’m talkin about!
What would you rcommend for a drag in your shop
The Saber Tooth Drag would be your best bet
@@HoosierTrapperSupply thank you I always value your opinions
👍
I never used drags. Isn't it to bury a drag then 12 foot of chain? But I agree 12 foot would be much better then 4 foot of chain
we don't bury them, basically bury a foot or so of the chain and have the drag thrown in the brush
@@HoosierTrapperSupply thanks for explaining that