Not only are you tackling an extremely difficult job removing your Mustang transmission, you're also filming the whole process. My hats off to you for all your hard work.
Thanks man I appreciate it. Since I've started making videos; I've realized how hard it is to do the work, film, and edit all by yourself. I'm trying to get better at it, but it seems to double the amount of time it takes to do the job.
Ive been working on my cars for years and pretty much have saved a ton of money. I have a v6 2007 Mustang and I was looking for a long time on an instructional video on how to get the transmission out. This video is very detailed and helpful. I realized I don't want to do this job haha. It helped me to make a decision. I got a real good mechanic, and I will let him swap out a transmission. I will use my time to earn the cash to pay him and get a sun tan by the pool on this job on my days off.
First I want to say that you did a pretty good job describing the removal of the transmission and the little things that you come across. just a hint for one trick on marking the drive shaft- just tag it with a shot of paint from a spray can, even black would work. having just replaced this part myself, the round plug you took out of the trans, went to the solenoid pack for shifting and Overdrive. Be careful and keep it clean, don't bend the little pins when installing. I have a '07, V6 Mustang with this trans and I have to replace the Torque Converter due to slipping and overheat codes, and you can feel it slipping in O/D. On my little pony, somebody programmed it and installed full dual exhaust with Flow Masters all welded up, and I realized that I will have to cut them to get down and over enough. I noticed your trans jack and saw how well it worked for this job, so I think I will break down and buy that one also. The only advantage I have over you is I only need to get it down far enough to replace the torque converter. Btw, I am also looking for a donor car for a Std trans setup also. Again I want to say good job on the video.
I appreciate it and I'll keep that in mind. I have another video where I tear into the transmission to find the problem and it's possible you could have the same problem. It's called the overdrive sprag and It's somewhat common. I'm trying to work on video quality, but it is more time consuming and harder than it looks to do everything by yourself. Idk where you're located but I'm moving and would be interested in selling it.
Im doing this right now on a 2010 v6 mustang the last few days like a couple hours at a time while drinking beer and used your video for a guide to see what i was gettin into. only differences is to try and over come the jack stands not being tall enough was but some cinder blocks down cut some wood spacers with some wood i had laying around to lay across the few cinder blocks and build a rasied platform for jack stands in the rear on each and raise the cat up in the back a lil. And just gona pull it out the back. Driveshaft on the 2010 has the 12 points on both sides instead of just the one. and no middle carrier bracket to remove. Also No acess plate at bottom gotta get the converter bolts through the starter hole.
Good to know. I thought it would be nice to have some tall jack stands, and they were on sale for $40. It's probably easier on a v6, but one of the most frustrating things was disconnecting the harness from the bellhousing. There's no room for a hand or panel clip tool, and the wiring harness had no slack to drop it down past the converter. I just disassembled a seized 4.6, and I had to use a ratcheting wrench. I had to squeeze it between the block and flexplate to get the converter bolts out. Thanks for the love, and I'm glad the video helped.
Awesome video I’m reluctantly having to take it out this weekend as I have an internal failure and not looking forward to doing it on the drive with stands
Make sure your stands are at least 6 ton so they're tall enough to get it out. If not, you may need another person to help you wrestle it off the jack and you could possibly damage the pan.
Oh no! I forgot to label my bell housing bolt locations with a diagram! I just put them in all in a little container to keep them separate from my other fasteners. Please advise.
Honestly, it took somewhere around 10 hours of actual work over the course of a few weekends because of filming and a few problems I ran into. I had trouble getting the exhaust off (midpipe bands, mufflers, manifolds), I ended up cutting the bands and mufflers off. There wasn't room to undo the Trans lines from the case with a regular wrench, so I had to get a crowsfoot wrench (flare nut wrench would be best). My jack stands weren't tall enough to get the Trans out, so I ordered 6 ton jack stands. Realistically, it's probably a 3-5 hour job by yourself on jack stands. Putting it back together is usually easier, so add a few more hours. As long as there's no problems, it's a day job.
That's the same thing mine did. I would check your fluid. If your fluids good, it's a possibility this could be your problem. Transmissions are complicated, but this is not that hard to check if you've checked everything else. If you can take a Trans out you can pull the pump and check the sprag. A $25 bearing is a lot better than a $2000 transmission.
Ive got a question. Just replaced both engine and trans. While installing them i dident connect my shifter cable. So i had to feed it and bend it pretty good(not to much) to get it to go back where it needed to go. It was sticking out of the engine bay so i had to pull it down through and shove it through a tight space by the trans. I hooked it back up like i was supposed to. But now when i put it in reverse. The cars not actually in reverse its in lik a "neutral" or non gear. And i have to push the shifter closer to park and then back where it pretty agressively will jerk into reverse. Could you possibly do a reinstall video, or show a diagram of how the cable curves? I might have stretched the cable but im not sure if thats my problem. And i know for a fact my torque converter is in its right place. Ive been driving the car for several days, no noises or rough shifting its just not in sync with whats on my dash or shifter.
You should have disconnected it like I did in the video and you could have pulled it down and out, I'm assuming that it bent up by the engine and firewall instead of towards the Trans. There's a white clip that disengages the shifter linkage, anytime you take that clip off it needs replaced (unless you rig something but it should be replaced) but it can also be damaged and mess up Shifting. 1. Disconnect that clip (use new clip) 2. Put your shifter in park 3. Take shift linkage and pull it, you will feel the transmission selecting gears, line it up with the in park shifter and connect them. If this does not fix the problem, then you may have stretched the cable or a shifter problem.
If you put the the Trans in neutral, it will allow you to line up the studs. You may have to jack up the engine to tilt it back. Also, make sure the converter is seated all the way by spinning it and applying pressure while the Trans is in neutral. It's very important for it to seat correctly. Make sure the Trans and engine are at a similar angle and nothing is caught between them.
@octanedrivendream We reprogrammed the tuning and it seems to be fine now. The gear ratio was changed, but also the differential. After several weeks got in touch with the guys at Diablosport and they were a tremendous help
It really isn't too bad. All the bolts are accessible. The exhaust, disconnecting the wiring harness from the top of the transmission, and getting it out from underneath are the biggest problems. If you have trouble disconnecting the wiring harness, maybe explore undoing some of the sensors in the bay to give the harness some slack. With some some slack, it could be disconnected once you drop it down a little.
@@octanedrivendream thanks for the reply I need all the luck I can get lol, do you think it’s possible to do without dropping the exhaust? I have bbk headers and a straight pipe and looks like I have more room but I haven’t started breaking anything loose yet
@chanj3r866 It might be possible but id recommend removing it. You need the room and once you unbolt the bell housing you will need to move the trans back to disconnect the input shaft and clear the flex plate. I imagine the exhaust would be in your way.
It's not necessary. The way these shifters are setup, I was making sure there wasn't a problem with the linkage or mechanism. Just figured I'd throw it in there.
I have one, but a lot of bolts are in tight spaces. I'm not sure if it fits on 2015+ but I assume it does since they used it on the first generation coyote.
Not only are you tackling an extremely difficult job removing your Mustang transmission, you're also filming the whole process. My hats off to you for all your hard work.
Thanks man I appreciate it. Since I've started making videos; I've realized how hard it is to do the work, film, and edit all by yourself. I'm trying to get better at it, but it seems to double the amount of time it takes to do the job.
Ive been working on my cars for years and pretty much have saved a ton of money. I have a v6 2007 Mustang and I was looking for a long time on an instructional video on how to get the transmission out. This video is very detailed and helpful. I realized I don't want to do this job haha. It helped me to make a decision. I got a real good mechanic, and I will let him swap out a transmission. I will use my time to earn the cash to pay him and get a sun tan by the pool on this job on my days off.
Did you ever get the problem fixed?
@@octanedrivendreamhe probably was either bullshitting or never got it done
First I want to say that you did a pretty good job describing the removal of the transmission and the little things that you come across. just a hint for one trick on marking the drive shaft- just tag it with a shot of paint from a spray can, even black would work. having just replaced this part myself, the round plug you took out of the trans, went to the solenoid pack for shifting and Overdrive. Be careful and keep it clean, don't bend the little pins when installing. I have a '07, V6 Mustang with this trans and I have to replace the Torque Converter due to slipping and overheat codes, and you can feel it slipping in O/D. On my little pony, somebody programmed it and installed full dual exhaust with Flow Masters all welded up, and I realized that I will have to cut them to get down and over enough. I noticed your trans jack and saw how well it worked for this job, so I think I will break down and buy that one also. The only advantage I have over you is I only need to get it down far enough to replace the torque converter. Btw, I am also looking for a donor car for a Std trans setup also. Again I want to say good job on the video.
I appreciate it and I'll keep that in mind. I have another video where I tear into the transmission to find the problem and it's possible you could have the same problem. It's called the overdrive sprag and It's somewhat common. I'm trying to work on video quality, but it is more time consuming and harder than it looks to do everything by yourself. Idk where you're located but I'm moving and would be interested in selling it.
Im doing this right now on a 2010 v6 mustang the last few days like a couple hours at a time while drinking beer and used your video for a guide to see what i was gettin into. only differences is to try and over come the jack stands not being tall enough was but some cinder blocks down cut some wood spacers with some wood i had laying around to lay across the few cinder blocks and build a rasied platform for jack stands in the rear on each and raise the cat up in the back a lil. And just gona pull it out the back. Driveshaft on the 2010 has the 12 points on both sides instead of just the one. and no middle carrier bracket to remove. Also No acess plate at bottom gotta get the converter bolts through the starter hole.
Good to know. I thought it would be nice to have some tall jack stands, and they were on sale for $40. It's probably easier on a v6, but one of the most frustrating things was disconnecting the harness from the bellhousing. There's no room for a hand or panel clip tool, and the wiring harness had no slack to drop it down past the converter. I just disassembled a seized 4.6, and I had to use a ratcheting wrench. I had to squeeze it between the block and flexplate to get the converter bolts out. Thanks for the love, and I'm glad the video helped.
Awesome video I’m reluctantly having to take it out this weekend as I have an internal failure and not looking forward to doing it on the drive with stands
Make sure your stands are at least 6 ton so they're tall enough to get it out. If not, you may need another person to help you wrestle it off the jack and you could possibly damage the pan.
Oh no! I forgot to label my bell housing bolt locations with a diagram! I just put them in all in a little container to keep them separate from my other fasteners.
Please advise.
😂 we all have our preferences
Keep up the good work 👍
Thanks man, I try. I've been getting some better equipment to make the job easier. Filming and editing makes the job take so much longer.
That is quite the endeavor young man, nicely done. How long did it take in real life? I can only imagine how much fun the re-installation was!
Honestly, it took somewhere around 10 hours of actual work over the course of a few weekends because of filming and a few problems I ran into. I had trouble getting the exhaust off (midpipe bands, mufflers, manifolds), I ended up cutting the bands and mufflers off. There wasn't room to undo the Trans lines from the case with a regular wrench, so I had to get a crowsfoot wrench (flare nut wrench would be best). My jack stands weren't tall enough to get the Trans out, so I ordered 6 ton jack stands. Realistically, it's probably a 3-5 hour job by yourself on jack stands. Putting it back together is usually easier, so add a few more hours. As long as there's no problems, it's a day job.
What are the torque specs to the trans bell housing bolts and torque converter bolts
Done this tgree times this year aLone
My 2005 Ford Mustang (automatic) will slightly move in Drive but, 1st and 3rd gear it drives fine. Any help pls
That's the same thing mine did. I would check your fluid. If your fluids good, it's a possibility this could be your problem. Transmissions are complicated, but this is not that hard to check if you've checked everything else. If you can take a Trans out you can pull the pump and check the sprag. A $25 bearing is a lot better than a $2000 transmission.
Ive got a question. Just replaced both engine and trans. While installing them i dident connect my shifter cable. So i had to feed it and bend it pretty good(not to much) to get it to go back where it needed to go. It was sticking out of the engine bay so i had to pull it down through and shove it through a tight space by the trans. I hooked it back up like i was supposed to. But now when i put it in reverse. The cars not actually in reverse its in lik a "neutral" or non gear. And i have to push the shifter closer to park and then back where it pretty agressively will jerk into reverse. Could you possibly do a reinstall video, or show a diagram of how the cable curves? I might have stretched the cable but im not sure if thats my problem. And i know for a fact my torque converter is in its right place. Ive been driving the car for several days, no noises or rough shifting its just not in sync with whats on my dash or shifter.
You should have disconnected it like I did in the video and you could have pulled it down and out, I'm assuming that it bent up by the engine and firewall instead of towards the Trans. There's a white clip that disengages the shifter linkage, anytime you take that clip off it needs replaced (unless you rig something but it should be replaced) but it can also be damaged and mess up Shifting.
1. Disconnect that clip (use new clip)
2. Put your shifter in park
3. Take shift linkage and pull it, you will feel the transmission selecting gears, line it up with the in park shifter and connect them.
If this does not fix the problem, then you may have stretched the cable or a shifter problem.
@Octane Driven Dream yeah I think I'm just going to replace the entire cable it's like $20 I actually bent it pretty good
@Supercar Built Its certainly possible that's your problem. Make sure the new cable has the clip, if not order one. Good luck man.
Did any fluid come out when you disconnected the bell?
It was hard to tell since I sprayed pb blaster and I had Trans fluid running down from taking the lines off. The pump may have had a small leak.
Hey I’m having trouble getting in converter lineup with the flywheel
If you put the the Trans in neutral, it will allow you to line up the studs. You may have to jack up the engine to tilt it back. Also, make sure the converter is seated all the way by spinning it and applying pressure while the Trans is in neutral. It's very important for it to seat correctly. Make sure the Trans and engine are at a similar angle and nothing is caught between them.
Hi I have a 2006 Ford Mustang gt and help a lot and can you do video about the ABs system I keep having this problem I’m just not sure how to fix it
What's the problem?
I replaced my trans in 09 Gt, but speedometer is off now. Any ideas?
Did you change any gears or the size of your tires? That will cause your speedometer to be incorrect.
@octanedrivendream We reprogrammed the tuning and it seems to be fine now. The gear ratio was changed, but also the differential. After several weeks got in touch with the guys at Diablosport and they were a tremendous help
Trying this on my 06 😬
It really isn't too bad. All the bolts are accessible. The exhaust, disconnecting the wiring harness from the top of the transmission, and getting it out from underneath are the biggest problems. If you have trouble disconnecting the wiring harness, maybe explore undoing some of the sensors in the bay to give the harness some slack. With some some slack, it could be disconnected once you drop it down a little.
I tried to go over everything in the video. Good luck 👍
@@octanedrivendream thanks for the reply I need all the luck I can get lol, do you think it’s possible to do without dropping the exhaust? I have bbk headers and a straight pipe and looks like I have more room but I haven’t started breaking anything loose yet
@chanj3r866 It might be possible but id recommend removing it. You need the room and once you unbolt the bell housing you will need to move the trans back to disconnect the input shaft and clear the flex plate. I imagine the exhaust would be in your way.
Why did you have to remove the interior trim? Thanks
It's not necessary. The way these shifters are setup, I was making sure there wasn't a problem with the linkage or mechanism. Just figured I'd throw it in there.
do you know if the 5R55S will mount to a 2015+ 5.0 engine ?
get yourself a little air compressor and impact gun to make life easier
I have one, but a lot of bolts are in tight spaces. I'm not sure if it fits on 2015+ but I assume it does since they used it on the first generation coyote.
I need a lift im told old doing it on the grond any more
My back hears you man.
I get the top 2 from the top befor i jack the car up