Silicon Bronze TIG Brazing
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- Silicon Bronze filler is good for many applications, including "welding" two dis-similar materials together. Many people refer to TIG welding with Silicon Bronze, when actually it is brazing. The reason it is good for "TIG welding" dis-similar materials is because it has a melting point that is lower than most metals, so we don't have to melt the base material. For these same reasons, it should be noted that Silicon Bronze is not a good choice for critical parts, because it is not as strong as a traditional weld.
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Lacking information.... Amps, filler wire size...???
Silicon bronze is a super special rood only for tig and until i realized that i tried with normal bronze roods.. what a disaster.. it didn't work.. there should be more technical data and specific information. Fancy youtube video... otherwise silicon bronce roods are extremely expensive..
About 110 amps, 3/32 filler rod.. silicon bronze..
When restoring a car you can use silicon bronze to cover the seam that attach the roof to the sail panel. In the automotive field it is considered a "cosmetic weld"!
Thank you for your reply. I was leaning towards a Tig to begin with, and your advice leaned me closer, taking the bold step of buying a Uni-Mig ARC170DC today, Thursday, now all I have to do is practice, practice, practice, and let me tell you, Wyatt, I now know first hand why Tig had been described as most difficult of the welding processes. Oh yeah! I'll also take this opportunity to thank you for your most informative and well presented videos.
Holy moly look at that. So why do the bicycle people always say that "you can't braze stainless"? Is TIG-brazing the exception?
It seems a Tig welder would is exactly what I need for filling in cutouts on metal sculptures, as opposed to using oxy-acetylene. Yes?
It is okay to "weld" 304 to stainless but I typically prefer 309 stainless filler... The primary advantage of the silicon bronze is the low distortion... thanks Mr. TIg
Weld.com Hey, what settings should I have my Welder on for this?
I've read that copper (only copper) can use NITROGEN for shielding gas, since copper doesn't form nitrides. It's supposed to be cheaper and very intense. I'd imagine my little electronic welder might not light up in the N2 atmosphere. I wish someone would try this. Also was wondering why we're not using A.C, here, to get some cleaning action. I've tried this myself and it seems to work.
Mr. Tig,
Thank you for the great demonstration. However, it would be nice if you could go over the settings on the welder used for the brazing process. For example, were you using DC (DCEN or DCEP) or AC? How about frequency on AC? What about the type of electrode? Argon or Mix?
Thank you for your time.
Armand Tomany fuck sakes...try them all....do some test runs on some coupons and YOU see what's best for you...daddy don't need to hold ya hand
Half the amperage. Don't worry about it. Clean the metal. Do a piece of .040" stainless so you get a feel for it. The captain has to know how deep the ship can go. Do some test pieces to get a feel for it. In the engineering world, you find folks that do stuff by the book, and it gets super difficult. Then you get other folks with some experience, where they do a simple thing they're good at, take a measurement, and go from there. Pick who you want to be.
I think that would all be useful information. This video is only showing how a good braze looks. It is not helpful if you are doing it wrong. Setup, gas flow, angles, etc., are all important but not covered here. BTW: TIG is always electrode negative (even on AC) and argon.
Dear 19672701 When welding silicon bronze with the tig process, it is not necessary to have any other flux because you are protected with the inert gas "argon" If you have ever witnessed the gas welding process it is always necessary to have a dip type of flux or prefluxed bronze. good luck Mr. Tig
Mister Tig , not if you have an inline flux bottle in acetylene line.
Great general info, but no info on TIG machine settings??
Know this an old video however do you recall AMPS, Filler Size, Pulse setting used?
Shane, This process is as good (strength) as most silver applications but certainly a fraction of the cost. good luck Mister Tig
Hi! When welding the flange to the pipe it needs to push the level plostkosti not to be jarred.
Thanks for the video, good luck.
I had to watch this a second time since it's so interesting. You get a much more controlled and consistent result compared to gas brazing. I'm going to try and find silicone bronze at my local welding supply store.
I thought you would use something like 312 filler to weld this for better strength, but I get the point that brazing keeps temp and distortion down.
He probably didn't use 312 since he wanted to demonstrate silicon bronze.
Ok, weird question. 1948 - 1965 Harley-Davidsons has Bronze seats, incorporated in to the cast aluminum. Could this process be used to build up material to machine in to new bronze seats?
My question exactly, much better than dropping a hardened seat!
Mr. tig, you explain very well and thats important, i do tig welding at my job and now im learning somthig beautiful....thank u..
I have to try this out on the car I am restoring, sound perfect for the job!
What were the welder settings for amps and volts? tia
this helped with my assignment
Great demo, Wyatt!
I understand that this isn't as strong as a normal weld (this technically isn't even a weld) where I am LOST is, how does this hold at all? If the base metal you are "welding" to isn't even puddling, it's not penetrating. Help me understand this please. This SEEMS like using electrical solder on steel...
brazing only bonds the filler metal and the base metal on the very surface. it's not fusing both metals, (which is why it's not classified as welding), but there still a relatively strong bond
That's pretty much it. Solder and braze metals make an alloy with the base material. They're not just sitting there! Electrical solder is the same. But it's not as strong because it's made of tin and lead, right? Copper alloys, silver alloys, nickel alloys are much stronger.
Can you tell me your amperage, tungsten diameter and rod diameter? I am trying to do the same exact weld that you are doing in the video, same ss pipe to the same exact flange. Thank you.
Would this be a preferred method for repairing cast iron, like a cracked exhaust manifold for instance? Great video. Thank you!
yes
Nice video. Quick question: does the base metal need to be hot enough to melt the braze rod like it is in gas brazing or is the puddle alone being hot enough to melt braze rod enough?
Lots of very good questions in the comments, Mr. TIG. No answers! Where are you, Swaim?
I forgot to say I have neither, so from a professional point of view would the Tig be a better investment?
the way i learned to do this was with a stick welder. carbon rod in the stinger and you dab your silicon bronze rod and burn it in with the carbon. I can't find anywhere on the internet of other people doing it like this. has anyone else ever used that application? granted I'm no expert, and I learned working in my old uncle's sheet Metal shop
That's pre-internet technology! Early books about arc welding show this, people used it for brazing galvanized sheet, steel pipe I think. I've read about doing this by laying the rod on the joint, and directing the arc on to the rod. I've tried carbon arc a little and liked it, but you're kind of on your own! If you look in an arc welding book from around 1940 you'll find something. People used to say this was good for teaching (arc welding and TIG welding) b/c the carbon rod doesn't stick to the base metal if you touch it. Seems to be true, and it's just a cheap thrill in general.
Just keep in mind that this process does not have the strength of a traditional weld. You aren't going to want to tig braze any critical parts. Thanks for watching!
Do you mean Engine Mounts on a WWll British Lancaster Bomber. They were Bronze Welded or Brazed on T-45 High Manganese steel.
I'm assuming that, prior to tig brazing, the parts being brazed are thoroughly cleaned
He's not using any flux (which actually dissolves oxides) so I think it has to be clean bare metal. I've tried this with A.C. to get the cleaning effect, and was surprised that he wasn't doing that. The cleaning acts like flux, sort of, and then the argon keeps it clean.
Thanks for your video!! I'm in the process of welding a stainless oil pick up tube to a gray cast iron oil pump to be sure it does not vibrate off. The welding shop near me recommended using Polyweld 755-T which is 55-45 Copper-Nickel.
After watching your video I think Silicone-Bronze might be acceptable also as they are dissimilar metals and no tensile strength is required in this type of joint. Any suggestions greatly appreciated!
I was think the same thing.
Funny thing happened to me. Not a good TIG welder. Happened to take the wrong rod. Made much better "weld" than usual. Actually SifBronse.
How do you properly match the sizing of your filler rod, tungsten, & cup with the material you are brazing? Is there a handy chart to link to & print out for reference? Thank you.
John, Tig certainly is a good way to go... You need to define your projects and match the power supply to the amount of amperage needed. A good rule of thumb for amperage is 1-amp per .001" thickness.. You can get further assistance by calling tigdepot.net 800-456-9172. thanks for watching Mr. Tig
I saw a motorcycle frame gas welded with silicon bronze ,and they user a liquid fluxer? Is this a similar process?
Love all the videos you make. I had a question. Can you use this for titanium to steel applications? Thanks in advance.
Great viedo! I want to try this product using a MIG welder on a tubular spaceframe that uses 3/4" diameter steel tubes that are 1/16" thick. Can you recommend some settings to begin with and maybe post a video of this process but with MIG instead of TIG?
Thanks!
is this a good technique for sumping a gas tank with 22 gauge metal?
i tried stitch welding on a gas tank using a mig welder but i was chasing down leaks a lot. leaked tested ok when all was said and done though.
Thanks for this...experimenting with tig brazing myself...most curios what amperage you running this at - or approximate?
On a overlaped sheet metal joint which has already been spotwelded since it is on a car whould a weld through primer be good to prevent the joint from future corrosion or would a liquid metal etch be beneficial thanks mate
What amps you running brother? Thank you
Mr. Tig You touched on Car resto, and the use of Silicon Bronze, Am I safe to assume this material if fine for non structural patch panels Ex: fender tips door panels and places where Planishing is just not accessible,, I would welcome a video watching you do a patch panel
Yeah I can't find any follow up vids with sil-b rod either..
Can you tig braze copper to 304 stainless using silicon bronze?
Can you do this with oxy acetylene, and did you use flux ?
Doesn't help watching the experts with their expert welds - I can make stuff look easy too. Why not show us what we all go thru trying to learn this - flow, amps, dc,ac what settings? I've got hours into wasting si brz rod with horrible results - the rod balls up and sticks to nothing. I cant get it to flow. please tell me the exact settings - the no fail procedure and give me hope!
I saw another video on this subject. There seems like a fairly narrow range of heat for this, the guy was making this specific demonstration you could just do yourself. Trying more and more arc power until the filler flowed nicely but not too much. Too much heat and the filler goes all over, and above that you melt the base metal which in this application is a big mess and sort of a disaster. I have seen this as a kind of calibration: More power 'till you just barely start to melt the base metal, and back off from that and try a dab of rod. Too little heat and the metal doesn't wet out, it just sits there, or the rod melts and just rolls off. Ah, I've done this a little on the bench, just put little bits of clean 16ga. mild steel together with it, lap joints. It's easy and very little damage to the base material, very little distortion.
This is so cool !!! Is it as strong as silver solder?
I'm trying to tig braze but the filler kind of explodes when I touch the puddle. Can you tell us the machine settings you used? Thanks!
Sounds like your using brazing rods, with zinc in.
What is the code for this silicon bronze filler? I see that McMaster has a "3 SiB" as a filler rod for TIG welding and "ERCuSi-A" as a MIG welding wire. I work only with TIG welding, but I'm not sure if both filler materials are the same thing.
3SIB. You can find it here: www.weld.com/index.php/shop-weld-com/shop-weldcom/filler-metals/silicon-bronze
I didn't know you could do this with a brazing rod. Very useful to know this. How can you judge that the component(s) are at red heat (hot enough for the braze rod to melt) when you are looking through the welding shield? Thank you.
Hi, Great demonstration. I have a question. A friend that owns a restaurant has asked me to fix a small crack in a large industrial mixing bowl. I’m assuming the bowl is stainless steel (it’s magnetic) .. would a rod like this be good for me or should I stick with SS? I was a little worried about contaminants because the bowl is in an industrial kitchen… That’s why I thought maybe silicone bronze would flow nice and just cover the crack up. Also it’s worth mentioning where the crack is the steel is thin from decades of dough being mixed. Any info you van share would be great. Thanks
any data avail. on Shielding gas, flow rate. Thanks
does silicon bronze provide adequate backing for preventing carbide formation when welding stainless?
You are not melting the stainless so carbide precipitation is bot an issue due to the base material not reaching liquidous temp
Awesome thank you!
would this be a strong enough weld for body panels --like putting new quarter panels on and floor pans and stuff like that ???
yes, brazing is very strong. i have seen large cast iron lathes that had been dropped and shattered the main housing. it was brazed back together so yeah it will hold body panels. i used it to fill areas dished by a grinder when i ground off bolt heads that were pinch welded. i had to replace the bolts and body filler would have cracked so brazed, sanded and like new.
I have a question I heard that the thoriated tungsten is radiactive and very dangerous .... is there another alternative for welding stainless steel with a good result like the thoriated one ???
The Tungsten rod is inert and safe.
The dust from sharpening is very slightly radioactive if breathed or ingested.
What if this was a bronze that's made for gas brazing, without the silicon in it? What would happen?
If you're asking about the usual "Low Fuming Bronze"? I think the problem is that the zinc in the regular "bronze" rod will get loose, and turn into toxic messy smoke. Or gas brazing that is suppressed partly by flux, and partly by use of a slightly oxidizing flame. And of course by the formula of the rod itself. But it's LOW FUMING bronze, not NON-fuming bronze! (I just thought of that!)
@@leonardpearlman4017 Thank you. I really need to quit over-estimating my cleverness when it comes to these matters... and live instead.
i have never seen this done. so cool.
What is the rod name for this? It isn't an ER correct? I am also curious about aluminum using dc and this process if only making, say a oil catch can. Thanks mr. Tig.
While you CAN us DCRP to weld aluminum, it does not work well for thin sections and it won't be pretty. For a catch can, stick with AC. BTW, Wyatt (Mr. Tig now) used to work with me....I caught him everything he knows and he's forgotten a lot. :)
I use ERCuSi-A filler, usually .062" diamers and made by Harris and by Radnor. My local Airgas dealer stocks it.
Can this be used for titanium to steel applications? Like titanium headers to steel pipe.
I think bolts, pop rivets or Tek 5 screws will be a better choice for that.
So awesome thank you!
I have a miller diversion 180 and I'm starting on projects with brass and steel and I was wondering if the glass cup is necessary or if I can use the ceramic cups provided with the welder? If glass is needed do you know what size and where to get one?
Glass is not needed. You will be just fine with ceramic.
I have a question for you, please answer me, I am an Algerian welder and I am interested in working in America as a welder, can I work with my Algerian diploma or do I need to repeat my training .
thank you for all
did you come to america?
Trying this in my garage/shop (retired hobby) I find my problem seems to be over heating the base metal and ending up with some braze and some melted base metal. My problem is getting the base up to the correct temperature for actual brazing without overdoing it. Any suggestion as to exactly what to look for?
Yes: Before you put any filler, when you're heating the base metal, there shouldn't be any sign of melting. No puddle. If you get any sign of melting (easy enough to do!) you're at the absolute upper limit of temperature, so go down quite a bit (?? how much?? How to say? If it's a foot pedal there aren't any marks!) ?? Maybe down one quarter? And try again. It's fairly obvious if it's too hot or too cold if you're in range.
Thanks. When my eye sight improves some I am just going have to experiment with various size pices. I have done a little with a tourch and it went ok, so it's just learning a different method-
@@leonardpearlman4017
hi and thanks for the videos. i have a few questions regarding the silicon bronze rods, are you doing this in ac or dc? how do you size the filler rod diameter and amps to parts thickness? and how about bead size?. thanks again, learning a lot from this channel
It's clearly DC - listen to it.
@@DonHavjuan it´s clearly solved - watch the date.
Muy bueno!! 👍😊
what is that high pitch tone
If you could only have one filler rod size of silicon bronze around, what size would you pick?
that's extremely subjective based on the applications you are doing. However, for us it would likely be 1/16 diameter.
Weld.com
That's about what I was thinking, thanks for giving an answer!
theomnipresent1 I used 3/32 the other day and fire the most part it seemed too big.
3/32
Thanks for the video. Is it possible to use this method with aluminum on dc setting?
No, not applicable for joining aluminum.
You want Aluminium Bronze, not silicon bronze.
I need some help. I recently bought some hobart bare bronze 770510 rods to try some with my tig. This stuff spatters and smokes a ton. There was a lot of white zinc dust as I just made my tacks. I saw your other bronze/tig video and it looked similar to my experience. But, this video and some others on YuTbe have made bronze/tig welding look butter smooth. What's happening? I'm using DC. Is there a difference Bare/silicone bronze? Please help clarify
You have oxy-acetylene brazing rod. You need the silicon bronze rod made for GTAW.
@@G31mR Silicon bronze can be welded by any method, but yeah, don't use "Low Fuming Bronze"!
can you silicon bronze braise coper?
Yes you can. We actually have an episode on it:"heli brazing copper"
He's dabbing guys
What was your machine set on, AC or DC?
DC-
Tanks for the fast reply!
Anyone else think, "... what a douchebag...," every time he gets into the shoulder forward position, looking at the camera through an eyebrow, and says, "I'm mr. tig," as sexily as he can?
By definition this is not a weld. Why would you teach people the incorrect terminology? They'd get torn up and down in any quality shop or academic settling for that error.
He said it was "brazing" ten times! He also said it was a "weld" ten times, but the distinction was definitely made. I think we can trust this guy by now?