Bobs tig welds them in 3 places. Ive done 2 myself. Ive them on a merc 275hp 30". I have water pressure gauge and even with new impellers the pressure is lower underway and very low at idle.
I know this is kinda old but a good over hub 3 blade round ear chopper will give you good bow lift but also get the rear up at speed. When I say good I mean bust out a grand used. That boat would probably like a 26 ish Ron Hill. Maybe a 27 if you like top end more than hole shot.
So how does the water get to the impeller when you put the new part on, I saw the water ports, so did you cut into the existing lower unit, and the hoses on the sides, can you explain more?? And also, was heliarc an option opposed to the epoxy?
There is a reason that Bob's charges what they do to do these jobs and they DO IT WELL. Also the skeg on your case looks to have been ground off on the bottom and the leading edge. Start with the best case that you can find as you are raising the motor... I have just found this channel but how fast is the little Triton running? If it is not running over 80... YOU won't see much benefit and it could slow you down... More later after I watch the video...
84 is as fast as its been and too sketchy in that rig lol. Highest I can raise it is 1in below pad. This transom has such a steep angle, the set back actually sets the motor lower than it should be. But...the benefits are there. At 1in below pad it planes immediately and feels like it's flying at speed. Cancels out the chine walking too which all tritons need lol.
I don't understand why you covered up the water pick up holes. Sorry, I'm new to this. I noticed the holes in the new nose cone, but how does the water get inside where the impeller will pick it up? Thanks for any info. I want to add a nose cone to mine, so this was super helpful.
its going to get water from the cone now he didn't show the part were he drilled into the old water line that's what that hose is on the side of the lower unit
It looks like the nose cone was installed too high, its kinda facing up instead of dead straight, the hose between the cone and impeller should be level. I've done a handful on my 2.5 260 and 280
@@SmalltownBassin water enters into the 3 holes in bottom of nose nose..where does it go from there? Do you have to drill a hole in your lower unit somewhere?
Oh sorry, I thought you were talking about the original pickups. For the LWP holes, I re drilled the holes to clear anything that got in and flushed with water after. Definitely not rocket science. If you're doing it yourself, be mindful of where you put the epoxy. Common sense will prevail.
gotta, GOTTA at least tack weld the cones on at a few specific areas!! **BTW, I have always used MUCH more coarse sanding discs, 18 and 24 grit really get the materials roughed up to get the EPOXY putty to stick the absolute best it possibly can!! **and yes, no Bondo products is a good general rule, only Real, straight up, quality brand epoxy putty products, always!! 👍
Good advise. I reached out to Bob's machine about tig welding the cone before I installed it. They were pretty confident in only using the provided epoxy. I'm not too worried about it. I'm more worried about the overheating now. I'm not necessarily blaming the cone but the timeline matches. I never had a cooling issue until the cone. Makes me wonder.
Polyester sticks to aluminium better than epoxy. I do these jobs with either all polyester glass reinforced resin or a thin layer of polyester, then start with epoxy.
I really like your video's, you explain what you are doing and why. thank you
Thanks for doing these videos, you’re really the only guy showing 2.5 Merc work!
Bobs tig welds them in 3 places. Ive done 2 myself. Ive them on a merc 275hp 30". I have water pressure gauge and even with new impellers the pressure is lower underway and very low at idle.
I know this is kinda old but a good over hub 3 blade round ear chopper will give you good bow lift but also get the rear up at speed. When I say good I mean bust out a grand used. That boat would probably like a 26 ish Ron Hill. Maybe a 27 if you like top end more than hole shot.
So how does the water get to the impeller when you put the new part on, I saw the water ports, so did you cut into the existing lower unit, and the hoses on the sides, can you explain more?? And also, was heliarc an option opposed to the epoxy?
There is a reason that Bob's charges what they do to do these jobs and they DO IT WELL. Also the skeg on your case looks to have been ground off on the bottom and the leading edge. Start with the best case that you can find as you are raising the motor... I have just found this channel but how fast is the little Triton running? If it is not running over 80... YOU won't see much benefit and it could slow you down... More later after I watch the video...
84 is as fast as its been and too sketchy in that rig lol. Highest I can raise it is 1in below pad. This transom has such a steep angle, the set back actually sets the motor lower than it should be. But...the benefits are there. At 1in below pad it planes immediately and feels like it's flying at speed. Cancels out the chine walking too which all tritons need lol.
I don't understand why you covered up the water pick up holes. Sorry, I'm new to this. I noticed the holes in the new nose cone, but how does the water get inside where the impeller will pick it up? Thanks for any info. I want to add a nose cone to mine, so this was super helpful.
its going to get water from the cone now he didn't show the part were he drilled into the old water line that's what that hose is on the side of the lower unit
What eve r happened to the over heating issue
Was it the poppet valve
where can i buy this ?
I also want this on my Mercury 150
Do you have a link
Bobs machine shop
It looks like the nose cone was installed too high, its kinda facing up instead of dead straight, the hose between the cone and impeller should be level. I've done a handful on my 2.5 260 and 280
always go to bob's! way it goes!
Not worried about epoxy dripping into the lower unit when you are blocking off the original pickups?
That cavity gets filled with epoxy also.
@@SmalltownBassin water enters into the 3 holes in bottom of nose nose..where does it go from there? Do you have to drill a hole in your lower unit somewhere?
Oh sorry, I thought you were talking about the original pickups. For the LWP holes, I re drilled the holes to clear anything that got in and flushed with water after. Definitely not rocket science. If you're doing it yourself, be mindful of where you put the epoxy. Common sense will prevail.
You didn't elaborate on the most import part. The water connection hose!
Yeah I seriously dropped the ball on that video. Life got wild with our son being born.
Well, a junior boater, 👏 congrats, yes it's an old video so he'll be 2 soon
How does it get water up now?
Through the pickup holes at the bottom front of the cone. The tube on each side carries it to the pump intake chamber.
👌👌👌👌
gotta, GOTTA at least tack weld the cones on at a few specific areas!!
**BTW, I have always used MUCH more coarse sanding discs, 18 and 24 grit really get the materials roughed up to get the EPOXY putty to stick the absolute best it possibly can!!
**and yes, no Bondo products is a good general rule, only Real, straight up, quality brand epoxy putty products, always!! 👍
Good advise. I reached out to Bob's machine about tig welding the cone before I installed it. They were pretty confident in only using the provided epoxy. I'm not too worried about it. I'm more worried about the overheating now. I'm not necessarily blaming the cone but the timeline matches. I never had a cooling issue until the cone. Makes me wonder.
Polyester sticks to aluminium better than epoxy.
I do these jobs with either all polyester glass reinforced resin or a thin layer of polyester, then start with epoxy.
Shake that camera around a bit more... might have to improve water flow through them fittings ..