Fantastic job. Thanks for demonstrating how to properly use the ball joint press. These tools can be borrowed from most auto parts stores. Now that you've made this video, we can borrow your experience too! Proverbs 29:18
Great Video, I love how they figure out what Parts they are going to use during the video, Because that's what I'm going to have to do... Thanks Guys!!! Moogs on the way...
Hey Oscar, I appreciate the video! I don't have a lift.. I this something that can be done with jack stands? I need to do these Valk joints on my 2011 Mazda 3s BAD! Already have new CV axel on both sides. Thanks in advance
Hi Amanda, you sure can do this job with two jack stands, just make sure they are properly secure and use the highest settings as you may need to get the ball joint press under the car in case they are stuck. I hope this helps.
At 15:10 of the video, you mention that the ball joint must be orientated with the arrow facing inboard. Later when you press the ball joint in place you lose the orientation of the arrow because the whole joint spins around before the splines catch it. At the end of the video, you can clearly see the arrow is facing out instead of in. How important is the position of the ball joint? Will it fail prematurely because it was placed wrong?
Great question John, so I called moog and spoke with someone that can give me a better answer, and I was advised that the arrow should be pointing outwords not in words like I had previously mentioned in the video. The moog rep did advise me if place incorrectly their will most definitely be a premature failure with the Ball joint. So in this case I will have to call my customer back and redo the two ball joints that I repair on this vehicle. So to answer your question if the orientation is not position correct most likely the ball joint will fail premature.
@@oscars-autorepair3236 Wait, Moog told you the "mount inboard" indicator is supposed to be facing... outboard? It says in the instructions it should face away from the wheel assembly, which would be inboard.
2010 Mazda3 110,000 miles. I had a tire rotation done and they claimed the front driver side ball joint was loose. They said they could replace it for $446. 1. Is this an issue they could even discover during a tire rotation? You're just swapping tires front to back so I didn't think the ball joint was exposed during this process. This is a generic chain tire shop in my area. I don't believe they were doing any in depth diagnostics as I came in for a regular tire rotation. 2. Does $446 seem like a high price? It pains me to spend this kind of money on a car worth $3,000.
Great question, one way to determine if your ball joint are bad is by putting your front car on jack stands and place a pry bar in between the lower ball joint and the lower control arm. If there is play and you visually see the lower ball joint move up and down this will be a good reason to change or bring up the issue. I think that the place you are describing must have checked to see if your fronts have play ( this can be check by having the car in a lift or jack stand and by placing your hand on the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock position and rock back and forth) but this is indicate possible tie rod play of possible wheel bearing issues. 446 dose seem a lot…..the part (lower ball joint) will cost around 40-60 dollars and the labor cost at the moment runs you about 110 per hour estimate. This is a one hour job at max. So I would suggest looking around for another shop to get a cheaper price. I hope This helps you out
@@oscars-autorepair3236 Thank you it really does help!! It's so hard to know if a shop is trying to do unnecessary work or at least up charge me. I think I found a cheaper place. At some point I hope to DIY some of this stuff. I've done my own spark plugs, but this job requires a special ball joint press tool so I figure screw it I'll take it somewhere.
@@mrniceguy423 i’m very happy that he found a new shop that would give me a quote. I’m always encouraging my customers to look and seek other quotes before choosing a shop sometimes shops can take advantage of your situation and scare you and telling you if you don’t get this job done your wheel could come off which it can but they sometimes drastically sell you the benefit of doing the repair, but I also want to praise you for knowing your limits on what you can do and not do
Great video. I'm about to change same side. 2011 3 hatch and still have oem at 165k miles. instead of oil lube I will be using high strength loctite to make it lock in better. I don't see any difference if it points in or out but it does definitely need to point in or out (left to right)as it is like a joy stick that shifts back and forth inside a channel while flexing over bumps, it does not shift around a full circle, for this reason you must pay close attention to make sure it did not spin out of position while installing new one. A dot of paint on new joint or a stripe of paint across the bottom will help make sure it did not spin out of place while installing.
Just completed the change. Applied red high strength loctite and it went on smooth. Before I pressed it in I was only able to make it move in & out in a straight line but after pressing it in I was able to move around a full circle, because i had a better grip so I don't understand why it is necessary to point it outwards although I still did. I removed original and reinstalled the moog ball joint without having to pull off the axle or any other parts beside the wheel so it is doable without the extra work. Would like to add this was done on my driveway by lifting only the side I was replacing(passenger) using a 2 ton jack with wheels turned full right. I used several safety measures to prevent car from rolling and falling off jack with added jack stands around in case any failure would occur. Separated ball joint by jacking up on disk to relieve pressure from control arm.
wrap a wet rag half way up the lower control arm and heat the mount point at the end with a torch. It will expand and make the while process a lot easier. Swinging a breaker bar with a 22mm socket will do all its might to unseat the vertical alignment of that C-clamp. Is there not a male/male insert that centers the adapter to the top face of the C-clamp? Im going to do this possibly tomorrow if I can figure out how to get the knuckle high enough to get that extended C-clamp onto it.
Fantastic job. Thanks for demonstrating how to properly use the ball joint press. These tools can be borrowed from most auto parts stores. Now that you've made this video, we can borrow your experience too!
Proverbs 29:18
@@manglermalachi thanks for your feedback. Amen on proverbs 29:18
Finally video of someone who how to repair not replace parts. Nice job
Huge help! This is how I thought it was done, But never had the "balls" to do it. Thanks great step by step
great Video, thanks for taking your time to get all the process and torque spec
THANKS! ddue never stop you rock man many many thanks
Great Video, I love how they figure out what Parts they are going to use during the video, Because that's what I'm going to have to do... Thanks Guys!!! Moogs on the way...
Was very helpful thank you
Thanx for this. 😊
Hey Oscar, I appreciate the video! I don't have a lift.. I this something that can be done with jack stands? I need to do these Valk joints on my 2011 Mazda 3s BAD! Already have new CV axel on both sides. Thanks in advance
Hi Amanda, you sure can do this job with two jack stands, just make sure they are properly secure and use the highest settings as you may need to get the ball joint press under the car in case they are stuck. I hope this helps.
do you need to do an alignement after this?
I guess no choice but to disconnect the axle? what is the torque for the axle nut ? need to replace it ?
Thank you
At 15:10 of the video, you mention that the ball joint must be orientated with the arrow facing inboard. Later when you press the ball joint in place you lose the orientation of the arrow because the whole joint spins around before the splines catch it. At the end of the video, you can clearly see the arrow is facing out instead of in. How important is the position of the ball joint? Will it fail prematurely because it was placed wrong?
Great question John, so I called moog and spoke with someone that can give me a better answer, and I was advised that the arrow should be pointing outwords not in words like I had previously mentioned in the video. The moog rep did advise me if place incorrectly their will most definitely be a premature failure with the Ball joint. So in this case I will have to call my customer back and redo the two ball joints that I repair on this vehicle. So to answer your question if the orientation is not position correct most likely the ball joint will fail premature.
@@oscars-autorepair3236 Wait, Moog told you the "mount inboard" indicator is supposed to be facing... outboard? It says in the instructions it should face away from the wheel assembly, which would be inboard.
@@graemewest2704 thank you for your feedback and correction.
Nice thanks bro . Why you change the axle ? They failed ? Whats the millage?
2010 Mazda3 110,000 miles. I had a tire rotation done and they claimed the front driver side ball joint was loose. They said they could replace it for $446.
1. Is this an issue they could even discover during a tire rotation? You're just swapping tires front to back so I didn't think the ball joint was exposed during this process. This is a generic chain tire shop in my area. I don't believe they were doing any in depth diagnostics as I came in for a regular tire rotation.
2. Does $446 seem like a high price? It pains me to spend this kind of money on a car worth $3,000.
Great question, one way to determine if your ball joint are bad is by putting your front car on jack stands and place a pry bar in between the lower ball joint and the lower control arm. If there is play and you visually see the lower ball joint move up and down this will be a good reason to change or bring up the issue. I think that the place you are describing must have checked to see if your fronts have play ( this can be check by having the car in a lift or jack stand and by placing your hand on the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock position and rock back and forth) but this is indicate possible tie rod play of possible wheel bearing issues. 446 dose seem a lot…..the part (lower ball joint) will cost around 40-60 dollars and the labor cost at the moment runs you about 110 per hour estimate. This is a one hour job at max. So I would suggest looking around for another shop to get a cheaper price. I hope
This helps you out
@@oscars-autorepair3236 Thank you it really does help!! It's so hard to know if a shop is trying to do unnecessary work or at least up charge me. I think I found a cheaper place. At some point I hope to DIY some of this stuff. I've done my own spark plugs, but this job requires a special ball joint press tool so I figure screw it I'll take it somewhere.
@@mrniceguy423 i’m very happy that he found a new shop that would give me a quote. I’m always encouraging my customers to look and seek other quotes before choosing a shop sometimes shops can take advantage of your situation and scare you and telling you if you don’t get this job done your wheel could come off which it can but they sometimes drastically sell you the benefit of doing the repair, but I also want to praise you for knowing your limits on what you can do and not do
What size is the bottom socket
Nice one
Thanks
Where are you in California? I need some car work done.
Hesperia, ca
Bad boy bad boys what ya gonna do? 🎶
When they come for you.
@@oscars-autorepair3236 you messed it up. But good video lol
WHERE DO I FIND THE STEERING KNUCKLE?!?!? I’ve been looking for it for 3 weeks
Call every junkyard around you, they got big networks you’ll find it and cheap. Probably 50 bucks.
Can i change a ball joint with a jobber arm?
Great video. I'm about to change same side. 2011 3 hatch and still have oem at 165k miles. instead of oil lube I will be using high strength loctite to make it lock in better. I don't see any difference if it points in or out but it does definitely need to point in or out (left to right)as it is like a joy stick that shifts back and forth inside a channel while flexing over bumps, it does not shift around a full circle, for this reason you must pay close attention to make sure it did not spin out of position while installing new one. A dot of paint on new joint or a stripe of paint across the bottom will help make sure it did not spin out of place while installing.
Happy Saturday! Thanks for your feedback.
Just completed the change. Applied red high strength loctite and it went on smooth. Before I pressed it in I was only able to make it move in & out in a straight line but after pressing it in I was able to move around a full circle, because i had a better grip so I don't understand why it is necessary to point it outwards although I still did. I removed original and reinstalled the moog ball joint without having to pull off the axle or any other parts beside the wheel so it is doable without the extra work. Would like to add this was done on my driveway by lifting only the side I was replacing(passenger) using a 2 ton jack with wheels turned full right. I used several safety measures to prevent car from rolling and falling off jack with added jack stands around in case any failure would occur. Separated ball joint by jacking up on disk to relieve pressure from control arm.
already broke 2 of those ball joints. no matter what you do it keeps pushing it in an angle like doesnt go straight up. Need to try hammering it in
Ill go ahead and do it
Skip to 4.47 way to much talk for what is being done
The hero I didn’t know I needed 🙏🏽
How it can be easy
wrap a wet rag half way up the lower control arm and heat the mount point at the end with a torch. It will expand and make the while process a lot easier. Swinging a breaker bar with a 22mm socket will do all its might to unseat the vertical alignment of that C-clamp. Is there not a male/male insert that centers the adapter to the top face of the C-clamp? Im going to do this possibly tomorrow if I can figure out how to get the knuckle high enough to get that extended C-clamp onto it.