I built mine but I put a reverser valve on the inlet.. works great on air. I've been lubing it using water soluble cutting oil added to the intake. So far it's been running for 10 years
The only way to make this have any torgue would be a twin cylinder with a mechanical valve on the steam inlet timed off the crank. The stock intake valve will get pushed open at the wrong time under high pressure. Been there. :) The reason for two cylinders is so one is under power while the other isn't. A single cylinder will need a massive flywheel to carry the momentum between power strokes.
this engine was originally a 4 stroke tho technically this has twice the amount of power strokes as the original design. And the flywheel Could carry the energy to do exhaust, intake, AND compression stroke in the original design. Soooooo why would it need a bigger flywheel??? How would it have had any torque as a 4 stroke if what ur saying is true
@@dudegalen Yeah a four stroke gasoline engine, not steam engine. Each puff of steam on the power stroke has way less energy than what a fuel combustion would produce. So you'd need more momentum hence a bigger fly wheel for the steam converted engine to keep running with a torque load. Also I think these steam conversions are setup in a 2 stroke style as theres no need for the compression stage with a steam engine.
@@BH-ro4ly once the power stroke happens in EITHER design all the energy is now reserved in the rotating flywheel, and if you do the ACTUAL math, mass times rpm gives you the actual kinetic energy AKA momentum. the same flywheel, travelling at the same rpm will have the same energy weather its gas or steam powered... now with that in mind, in the 4 stroke design the engine must do 180º to exhaust, PLUS 180º to intake AND THEN 180º to compress, imagine the amoutn of energy that takes to do all three of those. now in the 2 stroke design all the engine has to do is 180º to exhaust and its on to the next power stroke. proving my point that the steam engine flywheel is actually losing way LESS power between power strokes. so even if steam produces less power, the 2 stroke design doesnt even require half as much energy to get to the next power stroke as the 4 stroke design does. so if anything, the 4 stroke design needs MORE momentum to function than the 2 stroke design needs.
@@BH-ro4ly you must have missed the part in the origional comment where i said "the steam engine has twice the power strokes as a 4 stroke." 2 stroke means 2 power stroke every 2 crank rotations. 4 stroke only gets ONE power stroke every 2 rotations. so even if steam is less powerful, you have power stroke twice as often. and also consider which takes more momentum to do, compress, or exhaust. so if the steam engine doesnt need to compress, it doesnt need more momentum, you basically proved my point.
I like seeing these. I built one years ago with the same engine. I never ran it on steam because I'm scared of homemade boilers lol. seeing this video makes me want to digg my old engine back out
@@michaelbenoit248never thought of that thanks just got a tank to use for a boiler Where is the input of steam going into seems like spark plug hole would be on top? And do you have to have some kind of check valve at the input???
@@TheUnpreparedMind , Steam goes into The intake like yours, & duplicate a lobe on the back of each lobe on the camshaft. Look up how Garage54 did theirs. This just makes for an added power stroke.
Im developing a crazy obsession with steam engines. Conversion or actual machined and constructed. These aren't going to power airplanes or supertrains, but they will power generators and small vehicles. Again, not for speed and insane power. But wouldn't it be fun at least having done it once in this life?
Surely heat insulation where you currently have cooling fins makes sense? You don't want to cool the steam down while its doing work... Same goes for your feed pipe. Then find a pipe that fits around the exhaust pipe and tune the length for optimal power at your desired rpm. Better yet; put a intercooler (and water pump) on the exhaust and suck the piston upward on exhaust.
How do you keep the crankshaft and other internal parts from overheating from friction and siezing? Do the piston rings seal enough to keep water from entering the crank case?
Nice work, pondering a similar project myself. Except I am thinking of changing the drive ratio on the camshaft from 2:1 to 1:1, essentially getting the same results but not requiring cam work. Have you been able to apply a load and determine power output? I intend on working in the 400 PSI range and was curious about a baseline. You could take a serpentine belt and drive an alternator to determine how much power you produce. Just be careful how much pressure you put on that tank. It's 120 PSI rating was at operating temperature around 120 degrees. Again, nice work.
+Bryan St.Martin Thank you. Depending on space available in the crankcase, I would think changing the gear ratio would be more difficult than adding the cam lobes,but I guess that depends on your engine. I have not run this under any load to test power output, but if I come across a free alternator, I'll mount it on there and see if I can keep a battery charging enough to run a small inverter. I figured 60 psi was safe to operate at, I have not run any higher than that. Thanks for the comment!
I'll explain it to you you , take the cam out you weld a lobe on the bottom directly across from the lobe that's already on it.... you do that to both lobes and grind them to match the lobe across from it. and there you have it it's that simple. So you're basically just making a lobe straight across from the lobe that's already on the camshaft. So instead of two lobes on the cam it will have four it's that simple and put it back together run steam through the intake manifold and steam will come out the exhaust. Make sure you find a heavy flywheel that gets a centrifugal motion going and helps to steam engine run better and more power... I hope that explains it to you....
What we have here is half a steam engine,would not work without a flywheel.. A 2 cylinder with proper valving could provide the push for the other half of the revolution,might need a unusual crankshaft throw orientation.
I am building a Garry's Mod themed pontoon boat out of old barrels and other bits. Think I might try to use one of these for a power plant... maybe find a twin cylinder and route the steam through them in series to catch that second burst of expansion...
I’m struggling with the same thing. How to keep the steam running. I was thinking of placing the boiler on top of a cheap metal can with wood or something on the bottom to focus the heat more.
@Mr Mr Lots...makes a nice emulsified milkshake pretty quickly. Not practical for long term use, but it was a fun project. I have seen other peoples versions where they cut out the crank case and installed a grease zerk on the crank, that wouldn't help the wrist pin though. You could add an oiler with water soluble lube. For the very few times I've actually run it, I just change the oil frequently. Someone else commented they have been running one for years, same setup as mine...so who knows, maybe it would last longer than you think 🤷♂️
Artjoms Pugacovs Ya, I have a new alternator sitting in a box waiting to get mounted to this thing. I've had some new interest in this thing lately, so I'll dig it back out soon and work some new vids. I'm going to run the alternator with a belt to charge a 12v battery to run a 2000W inverter. That should put a good load on it
Pretty cool model, but I think a woodgas generator would be more practical for people trying to run off grid, all you need is a alcohol distiller and just stick the output hose to the carb.
Cold Steam the efficient way to use heat sources to produce electricity and or distilled water explained from basic concept to employment. Two open containers one full of water the other empty connect them at the bottom and water will reach an equilibrium 50 50. If one is sealed except for the connection the other will remain empty because of the vacuum created in the sealed container. Gravity will overcome this vacuum if the containers are taller than 30 feet. If the tanks are 40 feet tall the tanks will reach an equilibrium of water levels at 30 feet leaving ten feet of hard vacuum in the sealed tank. This makes a vacuum pump set we need two of them if we were going to distill water as the cold side open tank is used to collect the distilled water from it as the continuous input of water needs to go somewhere. Each sealed tank has four valves three at the top two of those on opposite sides (B&C) one at the very top (D) one at the bottom on the side (A), water-based vacuum pump operations are, Close bottom tank valve A and top tank valve C. Open top tank valve D. Fill sealed tank through top side valve B. Close valve B and D when full. Open bottom valve A. This primes the system to let the warm water in that will vaporize and run through the system when you partially reopen valve B (to control flow rate) and open valve C to its fullest. For only power generation need one pump set and one vacuum tank so we can have a Hot side and a Cold side one to boil the water and one to have the low pressure/vacuum to draw the steam in through the turbine then the cooling coils then to the tank. At the bottom of the cold side, tank is a return pipe with the one way valve to the heat source the one-way valve prevents expansion back to the cold side and as the hot side vacuum chamber is the only outlet for the expanding water and it is drawn by the vacuum the cycle proceeds. You can combine the two and get power generation and distilled water keeping the return line from the power generation system will let you switch if you don't need distilled water on a continuous basis in large quantities. I am going to make one feel free to make one as well it is open source.
Now run the exhaust steam through a coil cooling it back to liquid and return to the boiler creating a sealed system and use magnified light or magnets to boil the water rather than non-reusable fuel sources.
Im going to make a locomotive for my home track, and i want an easy to make engine for a decent sized boiler and this is the perfect design. Could you go into a bit more detail as to how you made this engine?
Check out the description section above, it's got the important mods listed. Not sure this design would do well for actual work, would need some lubrication modifications. Any other questions, let me know. I'll try to answer in less than 2 months next time.😁 Thanks for watching.
I'm planing on doing the same project but the motor I plan to use is about to blow up as is so will it still work for this (still technically runs just blows black smoke)
Wow, ultra late reply here...sorry I suck. Correct, the center hub hole in the rotor is too big to be of any use. I welded in a .25" steel plate on the inside "hat" section of the rotor and drilled a .375" hole in the center. I welded the original lawnmower blade arbor to the other side of the rotor, attaching it to crankshaft with a bolt through the center, just as the blade was.
Is this part 2 of a modification? I'm not sure what the mod is that you have done here is. It looks like your just pumping steam into the intake and it's generating revolution. But that would be incorrect as the oil bath will eventually fill with water and render the motor useless. And as i look closely the exhaust is perpendicular to the intake which looks like a head modification. It would also appear that in order to get this to work you will be wasting gallons of water per minute to get it to work. so the question here is, what was the point to this? You could achieve the same results blowing steam into a squirrel cage to make it spin.
It uses both original valves. With the addition of 2 cam lobes, the intake valve opens for every down stroke and is closed for the up stroke while the exhaust valve is open.
@@danray104 incorect. the steam goes to a condensor then a water tank. From there a feed pump is required to push water not condensate back into the boiler ....
@jesserebel8387 i user the term "condensate", just to keep it simple for the explaination of how to used the waste steam as water. You are correct, the recaptured condensate is dropped into the makeup tank, where the injector can recycle it to the boiler when needed.
Is the engine always self starting, or does it rely on the piston being on the down stroke? If you open the steam valve when the piston is in the upstroke, does it simply run in reverse?
No, it is not always self starting, needs to be on the downstroke. It does not run in reverse because the intake valve is closed on the upstroke. To run it the other way, you would need to switch intake and exhaust ports.
A pressure cooker is not rated high enough, and isn't going to provide the volume you want. Unless perhaps you are using a small 2 cycle as a donor engine. Most pressure cookers operate at 15 psi. I was running at 40 psi with a tank rated to 125 psi at 70 deg. Keep in mind, there is NO SUCH THING as a "Safe" diy steam boiler. Use caution, even a small low pressure boiler rupturing is going to send you to your neighbors yard looking for your fingers or parts of your face.
+Addi Martin I think you are translating from German and asking about the valves? Both valves are still being used. Steam/compressed air is introduced through in the original intake port and valve and is exhausted out the original exhaust valve, you just have to modify the camshaft. Two lobes need to be added to the camshaft 180 deg. from the original lobes, this eliminates the original compression and ignition strokes, opening the intake valve every down stroke and the exhaust every up stroke. You can see a good example in this video from Geo Schoonmaker ua-cam.com/video/qxh8NWgqjD4/v-deo.html
Simoman "Become the steam through the valves" English Teacher: "Chris, what is your biggest whis for future?" "My... biggest wish for future is, to become a nice girl onedays." ....xD PS.: I'm from austria ;D
How full was your air tank? I am currently working on my own project. Bought a pretty decent Husqvarna lawn mower just to convert the image to steam. Can you post a link to the hose that you used? What's the max PSI/Temp of that hose?
+Matt Webb The tank was about 3/4 full of water. The hose is a Weatherhead H24506 hydraulic hose. The hose series is H245, the 06 is the size(04 = 1/4", 06 = 3/8", 08 = 1/2" and so on) Max Operating Pressure 4000psi (275.8 bar) Temp range -40 - 212 F (-40 - 100 C ). Good luck with your build! I would use the Husqvarna to cut the lawn, and take the first one you see on the curb for spring cleanup for the steam project! These engines usually end up in the junk because of a dirt and grass filled carburetor, or a rusty water filled gas tank. The rotating assembly is usually good, and that's all we're concerned with. Happy Building!
Thanks for the info! It's too late for the Husqvarna! I've already tore it down lol. I've noticed that your engine sounds very good and quite compared to some others. It's really superb, any other plans for it?
+Matt Webb Thanks! I plan on mounting an alternator to the setup. I'll see if it will charge a battery bank to run an inverter. Use that to make the worlds most inefficient cell phone charger or something. Not sure you could do anything really practical with this setup, the crank case gets contaminated with water pretty fast. It was more of a project for fun with one of my kids. You would have to make some modifications to do any real work with it. Maybe cutting the crankcase sides out, eliminating the oil lubrication and adding grease zerks to the rotating assy. I've seen a few people do that.
I meant to say quiet, not quite. Lol. I too have similar plans. Although the water contamination issue hadn't crossed my mind yet. That will be an interesting problem to tackle. How bad is the water contamination? And does it occur around the cylinder head? I wonder how well your setup would reduce the water intake by inserting a steam trap right before the intake? That should capture the majority of the water i'd think, I can only speculate at this point because at this stage, all of my components haven't been modified/assembled. This is mostly just a fun tinker project that I've been meaning to do. If you do any updates please share!
+Matt Webb I think fighting the water in the crankcase problem is a loosing battle. I think no matter what, you are always going to have blow-by (no different than when it was a conventional I.C.E.), so your your always going to end up with water in the oil. The next time I run this on steam, I am going to attempt to fill my oiler with steam cylinder oil. That stuff is like molasses, maybe a well lubed cylinder with that stuff will slow down the blow-by into the crankcase. For what I am doing with the engine,I'm not too worried about it anyway. After running on steam about 20 mins the oil kinda looks like a vanilla milk shake, so it gets contaminated pretty quick. I just use whatever oil I have laying around and change it frequently. Let us know how yours is going, good luck!
ZEUSSx21. Oatey Fix-It Stick Repair Putty, pretty sure that's what I used for that. Drill/Tap/Sandable when hardened. Really, any epoxy stick putty will work. Thoroughly degrease the cam and scuff the area prior to applying the epoxy putty.👍
Simoman Okay. Would the engine still work if I put steam in through the exhaust, rather than the intake? The reason I would want to do that is because the exhaust is already threaded, which would be perfect for a pipe.
And what the hell is that going to do can you please explain to me why insulating the head would do any good whatsoever actually it would hurt it so it will overheat and blown head gasket I don't think his motors going to stand up very long anyway it's got no way of oiling the crank
@@claybornlewis276 This is a steam engine, not an internal combustion engine. The steam will not be nearly as hot as a miniature explosion from gasoline. Insulating the engine will help keep the steam from cooling too much and turning back into water while inside the engine.
@@simoman6847 what did you use to plug the spark plug? I was thinking JB weld. Hey. I'll upload mine this winter . About 3months. Subscribe and we can stay connected and working on this.
@@off-gridhillbillystyle3735 It was plugged with an oil pan drain plug, M14x1.25. It was the only thing I could find that shared the same odd ball thread pitch.
@@off-gridhillbillystyle3735 No check valve. Was your donor engine a 4 stroke? If so, did you modify the cam? If no cam mods were made, it wont rotate past the first intake stroke, the compression and ignition strokes will stop the engine dead.
I built one myself but I've got oilers on my I don't see any way for you to oil yours can you please explain to me how you're going to keep the rod bearings from flying apart with no oil in them
My exact thoughts I built one of these but I have oilers on it one for the cam and one for the crankshaft he can't run it very long before the flywheel will come flying apart when they crank bearing goes
+newme58 Well, the small fire I had here was not sufficient to keep steam pressure up while running, so it would only run about 3 minutes and run out of steam. I now have a propane burner from an outdoor turkey fryer setup that I used and it built up steam much quicker and would maintain steam pressure while running. So,in theory this setup would run as long as there was water in the boiler. I would imagine it could run for hours but have not tested how fast the water boils off. Even if it could run for hours, I would still not run the risk of running this boiler dry, that would surely lead to catastrophic failure of this already moderately dangerous boiler setup...Thanks for watching!
If run as is, it would rust up. The crankcase is still oil filled as it was when it was a combustion engine and turns into a water/oil emulsified mess pretty quickly. If you wanted run this more long term, it would need steam cylinder oil to the upper cylinder somehow. The crankcase oil needs to be changed every run. You could possibly cut out the lower crankcase area and install grease fittings to lube the crank journal instead. Either way, it would need lubrication attention every run. I never really ever planned on this running long term, more of a project just to see if I could do it. I'm kinda curious to see if it would hold up with actual use though...might have to pull it out of the corner of the garage and play with it again.
@@simoman6847 thx. Since steam engines used to run in the old times I assumed there are ways, but was wondering how hard would it be to do. Generating steam from solar is pretty cheap imo so i'm wondering why aren't such projects more common.
@@ionbara4594 I think to most people, it just isn't very practical. Water and most metals aren't very good friends, so steam engines require constant maintenance to keep them lubed and operating properly. More maintenance isn't something most people are looking for. Plus, operating any steam boiler is inherently dangerous. An exploding pressure vessel could easily kill someone, or at the very least, take off a limb and cover you in boiling water...not good. I would by no means, consider the boiler I used here "safe". I kept the pressure pretty low, installed a blow off valve on the tank, and made damn sure it was always full of water...Heating a dry boiler is guaranteed failure. I want to make a better boiler and run this engine again to do some work with it. Definitely not trying to deter you, I say go for it and build one, it was a lot of fun. Just be safe!
I wish I knew, that was something I meant to check and never did. I really need to dig this out of the back of the garage to test rpm and add an alternator, I have an alternator sitting there waiting to get mounted to it.
+shayson1357 I did attempt to. There is an inline air tool oiler installed between the ball valve and inlet. Totally did not work. I was filling it with light machine oil, and all the oil would be gone after only a few seconds of running on steam. I did get some proper steam cylinder oil with a model live steam engine, I'll try that in the oiler next time this runs on steam and see if that works better.
Something called a "hydrostatic lubricator" would work great for this. Yes you need steam cylinder oil as the regular light-weight oil does nothing at all at the temperatures in the steam, where as the steam cylinder oil actually stays oil and mixes with the water in the system and lubricates everything that way. I was wondering... It sounds like your exhaust valve is being held open at a wrong time. Like the valve clearances are a bit off. Have checked that at all? If you get that exhaust leak dealt with, you would have allot more power out of the thing!
Would you be able to mount the boiler and engine to a wheeled frame and make a small steam car? My friend and I are trying to build a steam car, and I want to know if a converted engine such as this would have enough power to move itself.
@@legowarriorsadventure3613 You could also put a high-temperature copper coating on the piston and cylinder walls to prevent the engine from rusting. Considering there's no combustion it should stay but you might be limited to just the top of the piston because of friction.
Very good & clean conversion. You are paving the way to allot of inexpensive, functional steam engines. Thanks for all your hard work.
+rjb Thanks, glad you like it!
Ya you’re right I fitted one of these to a locomotive with enough gear reduction it produces a lot of torque
Point exhaust down to easier clear water. Nice job btw, runs so smooth!
I built mine but I put a reverser valve on the inlet.. works great on air. I've been lubing it using water soluble cutting oil added to the intake. So far it's been running for 10 years
I don’t know what you mean by reverser valve. I’m new to steam power. Could you please explain?
The only way to make this have any torgue would be a twin cylinder with a mechanical valve on the steam inlet timed off the crank. The stock intake valve will get pushed open at the wrong time under high pressure. Been there. :) The reason for two cylinders is so one is under power while the other isn't. A single cylinder will need a massive flywheel to carry the momentum between power strokes.
Thnx Wilster for mentioning that 👍
this engine was originally a 4 stroke tho technically this has twice the amount of power strokes as the original design. And the flywheel Could carry the energy to do exhaust, intake, AND compression stroke in the original design. Soooooo why would it need a bigger flywheel??? How would it have had any torque as a 4 stroke if what ur saying is true
@@dudegalen Yeah a four stroke gasoline engine, not steam engine. Each puff of steam on the power stroke has way less energy than what a fuel combustion would produce. So you'd need more momentum hence a bigger fly wheel for the steam converted engine to keep running with a torque load. Also I think these steam conversions are setup in a 2 stroke style as theres no need for the compression stage with a steam engine.
@@BH-ro4ly once the power stroke happens in EITHER design all the energy is now reserved in the rotating flywheel, and if you do the ACTUAL math, mass times rpm gives you the actual kinetic energy AKA momentum. the same flywheel, travelling at the same rpm will have the same energy weather its gas or steam powered... now with that in mind, in the 4 stroke design the engine must do 180º to exhaust, PLUS 180º to intake AND THEN 180º to compress, imagine the amoutn of energy that takes to do all three of those. now in the 2 stroke design all the engine has to do is 180º to exhaust and its on to the next power stroke. proving my point that the steam engine flywheel is actually losing way LESS power between power strokes. so even if steam produces less power, the 2 stroke design doesnt even require half as much energy to get to the next power stroke as the 4 stroke design does. so if anything, the 4 stroke design needs MORE momentum to function than the 2 stroke design needs.
@@BH-ro4ly you must have missed the part in the origional comment where i said "the steam engine has twice the power strokes as a 4 stroke." 2 stroke means 2 power stroke every 2 crank rotations. 4 stroke only gets ONE power stroke every 2 rotations. so even if steam is less powerful, you have power stroke twice as often. and also consider which takes more momentum to do, compress, or exhaust. so if the steam engine doesnt need to compress, it doesnt need more momentum, you basically proved my point.
Nice job! I rarely see steam engines that don't leak steam all over the place
I like seeing these. I built one years ago with the same engine. I never ran it on steam because I'm scared of homemade boilers lol. seeing this video makes me want to digg my old engine back out
W a homemade boiler just have a safety valve on the tank like a water heater. At a certain pressure it’ll pop open like on the real thing.
Look at videos for solar water heaters, low cost power with less no of boiler explosions. Leaks yes but no boom!
@@michaelbenoit248never thought of that thanks just got a tank to use for a boiler
Where is the input of steam going into seems like spark plug hole would be on top?
And do you have to have some kind of check valve at the input???
@@TheUnpreparedMind , Steam goes into
The intake like yours, & duplicate a lobe on the back of each lobe on the camshaft. Look up how Garage54 did theirs. This just makes for an added power stroke.
@@michaelbenoit248Thanks buddy
The sound of engine is very sweet and the invention is great
Love it! Definitely something on my list to do.., just need to expand my knowledge!
Im developing a crazy obsession with steam engines. Conversion or actual machined and constructed. These aren't going to power airplanes or supertrains, but they will power generators and small vehicles. Again, not for speed and insane power. But wouldn't it be fun at least having done it once in this life?
its awesome bro,, this alternativ to make electricity to power house with charchoal or wood stove
Usually you plumb it to the sparkplug hole. I'm wondering where you inserted the steam line to?.love it so simple. Thanks
Very nice. I'm totally impressed. If you're still looking for a free alternator for testing, I'll be happy to send you one.
Surely heat insulation where you currently have cooling fins makes sense?
You don't want to cool the steam down while its doing work...
Same goes for your feed pipe.
Then find a pipe that fits around the exhaust pipe and tune the length for optimal power at your desired rpm.
Better yet; put a intercooler (and water pump) on the exhaust and suck the piston upward on exhaust.
How do you keep the crankshaft and other internal parts from overheating from friction and siezing? Do the piston rings seal enough to keep water from entering the crank case?
Anyone else have to rewind at 1:38 to make sure that scream came from the video?
did that thing say try try try y in the beginning
Could I take a 2 cylinder AIR COMPRESSOR, and plum it into a boiler to make a 2 cylinder, CONSTANT power steering engine?
Nice work, pondering a similar project myself. Except I am thinking of changing the drive ratio on the camshaft from 2:1 to 1:1, essentially getting the same results but not requiring cam work. Have you been able to apply a load and determine power output? I intend on working in the 400 PSI range and was curious about a baseline. You could take a serpentine belt and drive an alternator to determine how much power you produce. Just be careful how much pressure you put on that tank. It's 120 PSI rating was at operating temperature around 120 degrees. Again, nice work.
+Bryan St.Martin Thank you. Depending on space available in the crankcase, I would think changing the gear ratio would be more difficult than adding the cam lobes,but I guess that depends on your engine. I have not run this under any load to test power output, but if I come across a free alternator, I'll mount it on there and see if I can keep a battery charging enough to run a small inverter. I figured 60 psi was safe to operate at, I have not run any higher than that. Thanks for the comment!
Simoman m
Any chance you are going to make a build video or a video explaining what all you did and how this is working?
Maybe a good project for the winter.
I'll explain it to you you , take the cam out you weld a lobe on the bottom directly across from the lobe that's already on it.... you do that to both lobes and grind them to match the lobe across from it. and there you have it it's that simple. So you're basically just making a lobe straight across from the lobe that's already on the camshaft. So instead of two lobes on the cam it will have four it's that simple and put it back together run steam through the intake manifold and steam will come out the exhaust. Make sure you find a heavy flywheel that gets a centrifugal motion going and helps to steam engine run better and more power... I hope that explains it to you....
What we have here is half a steam engine,would not work without a flywheel..
A 2 cylinder with proper valving could provide the push for the other half of the revolution,might need a unusual crankshaft throw orientation.
I am building a Garry's Mod themed pontoon boat out of old barrels and other bits. Think I might try to use one of these for a power plant... maybe find a twin cylinder and route the steam through them in series to catch that second burst of expansion...
Saludos mister Ford le falta un filtro para que el agua no oside el cilindro todo bien gracias feliz año nuevo mister Ford.
I’m struggling with the same thing. How to keep the steam running. I was thinking of placing the boiler on top of a cheap metal can with wood or something on the bottom to focus the heat more.
Can this perform work? Also a fiddle with the length of your pipe could offer more compression.
Is the steam going into spark plug hole and is there a type of check valve in line with feed hose to engine?
Actually sounds like an old steam locomotive in a way.
Every Steve engine sounds the same
Solo falta el alternador, saludos desde España🇪🇸🇪🇸🇪🇸🇪🇸
Cool
How much water makes it into the oil ? Gap less piston rings ?
@Mr Mr Lots...makes a nice emulsified milkshake pretty quickly. Not practical for long term use, but it was a fun project. I have seen other peoples versions where they cut out the crank case and installed a grease zerk on the crank, that wouldn't help the wrist pin though. You could add an oiler with water soluble lube. For the very few times I've actually run it, I just change the oil frequently. Someone else commented they have been running one for years, same setup as mine...so who knows, maybe it would last longer than you think 🤷♂️
6 years and no updates? did you ever do anything with it other than this?
Nice nice. But you have to put small load on it. Looks like it has power just to spin it self..
Artjoms Pugacovs Ya, I have a new alternator sitting in a box waiting to get mounted to this thing. I've had some new interest in this thing lately, so I'll dig it back out soon and work some new vids. I'm going to run the alternator with a belt to charge a 12v battery to run a 2000W inverter. That should put a good load on it
nice product, how many watts this small trubine can generatate?
Pretty cool model, but I think a woodgas generator would be more practical for people trying to run off grid, all you need is a alcohol distiller and just stick the output hose to the carb.
Cold Steam the efficient way to use heat sources to produce electricity and or distilled water explained from basic concept to employment.
Two open containers one full of water the other empty connect them at the bottom and water will reach an equilibrium 50 50. If one is sealed except for the connection the other will remain empty because of the vacuum created in the sealed container.
Gravity will overcome this vacuum if the containers are taller than 30 feet.
If the tanks are 40 feet tall the tanks will reach an equilibrium of water levels at 30 feet leaving ten feet of hard vacuum in the sealed tank. This makes a vacuum pump set we need two of them if we were going to distill water as the cold side open tank is used to collect the distilled water from it as the continuous input of water needs to go somewhere.
Each sealed tank has four valves three at the top two of those on opposite sides (B&C) one at the very top (D) one at the bottom on the side (A), water-based vacuum pump operations are, Close bottom tank valve A and top tank valve C. Open top tank valve D. Fill sealed tank through top side valve B. Close valve B and D when full. Open bottom valve A.
This primes the system to let the warm water in that will vaporize and run through the system when you partially reopen valve B (to control flow rate) and open valve C to its fullest.
For only power generation need one pump set and one vacuum tank so we can have a Hot side and a Cold side one to boil the water and one to have the low pressure/vacuum to draw the steam in through the turbine then the cooling coils then to the tank.
At the bottom of the cold side, tank is a return pipe with the one way valve to the heat source the one-way valve prevents expansion back to the cold side and as the hot side vacuum chamber is the only outlet for the expanding water and it is drawn by the vacuum the cycle proceeds.
You can combine the two and get power generation and distilled water keeping the return line from the power generation system will let you switch if you don't need distilled water on a continuous basis in large quantities.
I am going to make one feel free to make one as well it is open source.
Comment vous avez fais pour la sécurité si trop de pression
You've made quite a bomb there
Great job ...but did he have a good torque?? Thanks
Now run the exhaust steam through a coil cooling it back to liquid and return to the boiler creating a sealed system and use magnified light or magnets to boil the water rather than non-reusable fuel sources.
Im going to make a locomotive for my home track, and i want an easy to make engine for a decent sized boiler and this is the perfect design. Could you go into a bit more detail as to how you made this engine?
Check out the description section above, it's got the important mods listed. Not sure this design would do well for actual work, would need some lubrication modifications. Any other questions, let me know. I'll try to answer in less than 2 months next time.😁 Thanks for watching.
Hey tell me about if it is still working...
I want to work on the same project...for home use.
nice paint job
Genius! Is that a brake rotor?
put a train whistle on it! lmao...nice! WHOOO WHOOO!
I thought where steam come from? It’s just a cheetah….then, I see fire😂
I'm planing on doing the same project but the motor I plan to use is about to blow up as is so will it still work for this (still technically runs just blows black smoke)
Wild, man!
Might I suggest one thing: insulate your system so you don't lose so much energy to those radiators!
What radiators
woraus besteht der schwarze Schlauch, der so eine heißen Dampf vertragen kann
Quick question! How did you attach the brake rotor? I thought its hole would be too large for a small lawnmower crankshaft.
Wow, ultra late reply here...sorry I suck. Correct, the center hub hole in the rotor is too big to be of any use. I welded in a .25" steel plate on the inside "hat" section of the rotor and drilled a .375" hole in the center. I welded the original lawnmower blade arbor to the other side of the rotor, attaching it to crankshaft with a bolt through the center, just as the blade was.
Hello nice video.
Is possible to have some more detail of your installation?
Thanks
+Gianluca Gatti Thanks. I added some more details in the description section above.
How can you say it's 3,5hp if there is no load attached to the engine?
I was just listing the size of the engine as it originally was when it was IC
try to make a monotube boiler, they're much more efficient and waaay less dangerous
Do you get water in the oil?
nice video how long can this engine run?
The inlet valve should open against the pressure. Not along with it.
Is this part 2 of a modification? I'm not sure what the mod is that you have done here is. It looks like your just pumping steam into the intake and it's generating revolution. But that would be incorrect as the oil bath will eventually fill with water and render the motor useless. And as i look closely the exhaust is perpendicular to the intake which looks like a head modification. It would also appear that in order to get this to work you will be wasting gallons of water per minute to get it to work. so the question here is, what was the point to this? You could achieve the same results blowing steam into a squirrel cage to make it spin.
how do you oil it?
Yeah but it runs all good under load?
Thumb's down b/c this is an air engine. Not a steam engine.
How’d you get it to work without a valve to shut the steam off when the piston is in the up cycle?
It uses both original valves. With the addition of 2 cam lobes, the intake valve opens for every down stroke and is closed for the up stroke while the exhaust valve is open.
doing my 1956 b and s conversion yaaaaaaaaaa !!! lol
Do you have a video or link to what all you did to the motor to make it work right?
The video description has a list of all the modifications👍
This is so cool! Could you attach a condenser of some sorts so the exhaust steam could go back into the boiler?
You certainly can, but you would also need a water injector to force the condensate into the boiler under pressure
@@danray104 incorect. the steam goes to a condensor then a water tank. From there a feed pump is required to push water not condensate back into the boiler ....
@jesserebel8387 i user the term "condensate", just to keep it simple for the explaination of how to used the waste steam as water. You are correct, the recaptured condensate is dropped into the makeup tank, where the injector can recycle it to the boiler when needed.
Any idea how many rpm it does
Is the engine always self starting, or does it rely on the piston being on the down stroke? If you open the steam valve when the piston is in the upstroke, does it simply run in reverse?
No, it is not always self starting, needs to be on the downstroke. It does not run in reverse because the intake valve is closed on the upstroke. To run it the other way, you would need to switch intake and exhaust ports.
It sounds very happy, i hope you find a way of bleeding the water off so it doesn't kill itself. Tough little unit!
Would a pressure cooker work as a boiler? Or does it need more pressure?
A pressure cooker is not rated high enough, and isn't going to provide the volume you want. Unless perhaps you are using a small 2 cycle as a donor engine. Most pressure cookers operate at 15 psi. I was running at 40 psi with a tank rated to 125 psi at 70 deg. Keep in mind, there is NO SUCH THING as a "Safe" diy steam boiler. Use caution, even a small low pressure boiler rupturing is going to send you to your neighbors yard looking for your fingers or parts of your face.
You can do the same thing with a compressor
But the fuel? Easy for a steam engine. Wood ect
Is there a check valve on that setup?
What kind of mods need to be done internally? Do you just run the steam in the intake?
Granite 345 R/T All the mods are in the description, let me know if you have any other questions👍
Great stuff! What size air tank is that?
5 gal I think
how do you become the steam through the ventiles ?
+Addi Martin I think you are translating from German and asking about the valves? Both valves are still being used. Steam/compressed air is introduced through in the original intake port and valve and is exhausted out the original exhaust valve, you just have to modify the camshaft. Two lobes need to be added to the camshaft 180 deg. from the original lobes, this eliminates the original compression and ignition strokes, opening the intake valve every down stroke and the exhaust every up stroke. You can see a good example in this video from Geo Schoonmaker ua-cam.com/video/qxh8NWgqjD4/v-deo.html
Simoman
"Become the steam through the valves"
English Teacher: "Chris, what is your biggest whis for future?"
"My... biggest wish for future is, to become a nice girl onedays." ....xD
PS.: I'm from austria ;D
wait so could you run this on gas like a 2 stroke since it fires on exhaust too
Trace Anthony do you see a spark plug?
Hell no
You can buy that
How full was your air tank? I am currently working on my own project. Bought a pretty decent Husqvarna lawn mower just to convert the image to steam. Can you post a link to the hose that you used? What's the max PSI/Temp of that hose?
+Matt Webb The tank was about 3/4 full of water. The hose is a Weatherhead H24506 hydraulic hose. The hose series is H245, the 06 is the size(04 = 1/4", 06 = 3/8", 08 = 1/2" and so on) Max Operating Pressure 4000psi (275.8 bar) Temp range -40 - 212 F (-40 - 100 C ). Good luck with your build! I would use the Husqvarna to cut the lawn, and take the first one you see on the curb for spring cleanup for the steam project! These engines usually end up in the junk because of a dirt and grass filled carburetor, or a rusty water filled gas tank. The rotating assembly is usually good, and that's all we're concerned with. Happy Building!
Thanks for the info! It's too late for the Husqvarna! I've already tore it down lol. I've noticed that your engine sounds very good and quite compared to some others. It's really superb, any other plans for it?
+Matt Webb Thanks! I plan on mounting an alternator to the setup. I'll see if it will charge a battery bank to run an inverter. Use that to make the worlds most inefficient cell phone charger or something. Not sure you could do anything really practical with this setup, the crank case gets contaminated with water pretty fast. It was more of a project for fun with one of my kids. You would have to make some modifications to do any real work with it. Maybe cutting the crankcase sides out, eliminating the oil lubrication and adding grease zerks to the rotating assy. I've seen a few people do that.
I meant to say quiet, not quite. Lol. I too have similar plans. Although the water contamination issue hadn't crossed my mind yet. That will be an interesting problem to tackle. How bad is the water contamination? And does it occur around the cylinder head? I wonder how well your setup would reduce the water intake by inserting a steam trap right before the intake? That should capture the majority of the water i'd think, I can only speculate at this point because at this stage, all of my components haven't been modified/assembled. This is mostly just a fun tinker project that I've been meaning to do. If you do any updates please share!
+Matt Webb I think fighting the water in the crankcase problem is a loosing battle. I think no matter what, you are always going to have blow-by (no different than when it was a conventional I.C.E.), so your your always going to end up with water in the oil. The next time I run this on steam, I am going to attempt to fill my oiler with steam cylinder oil. That stuff is like molasses, maybe a well lubed cylinder with that stuff will slow down the blow-by into the crankcase. For what I am doing with the engine,I'm not too worried about it anyway. After running on steam about 20 mins the oil kinda looks like a vanilla milk shake, so it gets contaminated pretty quick. I just use whatever oil I have laying around and change it frequently. Let us know how yours is going, good luck!
👍👍👍👍
Did you just add other lobes on the opposite sides of the camshaft? If so, what did you make the new lobes out of?
Correct. I used an epoxy putty stick to fashion the new lobes, shaped them with sandpaper after it hardened.
ZEUSSx21. Oatey Fix-It Stick Repair Putty, pretty sure that's what I used for that. Drill/Tap/Sandable when hardened. Really, any epoxy stick putty will work. Thoroughly degrease the cam and scuff the area prior to applying the epoxy putty.👍
Simoman I went ahead and used JB Weld Steel Stik.
@@zeussx2120 that should be perfect👍
Simoman Okay. Would the engine still work if I put steam in through the exhaust, rather than the intake? The reason I would want to do that is because the exhaust is already threaded, which would be perfect for a pipe.
Can I buy it?
nice job.. try insulting the cylinder head maybe with foam insulation.
And what the hell is that going to do can you please explain to me why insulating the head would do any good whatsoever actually it would hurt it so it will overheat and blown head gasket I don't think his motors going to stand up very long anyway it's got no way of oiling the crank
@@claybornlewis276 This is a steam engine, not an internal combustion engine. The steam will not be nearly as hot as a miniature explosion from gasoline. Insulating the engine will help keep the steam from cooling too much and turning back into water while inside the engine.
Sandmgat cool and useful
Could I get permission to use portion of the steam engine sound in an animation I am working on?
Sure
where can i buy just the engine?
It was an old lawn mower engine.
Nice .
Inlet into sparkplug? and what's the outlet?
The sparkplug hole is plugged. The steam inlet and exhaust use the original intake and exhaust ports.
@@simoman6847 what did you use to plug the spark plug? I was thinking JB weld.
Hey. I'll upload mine this winter . About 3months.
Subscribe and we can stay connected and working on this.
@@off-gridhillbillystyle3735 It was plugged with an oil pan drain plug, M14x1.25. It was the only thing I could find that shared the same odd ball thread pitch.
@@simoman6847 awsome. Also is there a check valve on that setup? I'm having some trouble getting mine to make a complete revolution.
@@off-gridhillbillystyle3735 No check valve. Was your donor engine a 4 stroke? If so, did you modify the cam? If no cam mods were made, it wont rotate past the first intake stroke, the compression and ignition strokes will stop the engine dead.
How do you oil the damn thing
I built one myself but I've got oilers on my I don't see any way for you to oil yours can you please explain to me how you're going to keep the rod bearings from flying apart with no oil in them
My exact thoughts I built one of these but I have oilers on it one for the cam and one for the crankshaft he can't run it very long before the flywheel will come flying apart when they crank bearing goes
how long will that motor last running?
+newme58 Well, the small fire I had here was not sufficient to keep steam pressure up while running, so it would only run about 3 minutes and run out of steam. I now have a propane burner from an outdoor turkey fryer setup that I used and it built up steam much quicker and would maintain steam pressure while running. So,in theory this setup would run as long as there was water in the boiler. I would imagine it could run for hours but have not tested how fast the water boils off. Even if it could run for hours, I would still not run the risk of running this boiler dry, that would surely lead to catastrophic failure of this already moderately dangerous boiler setup...Thanks for watching!
how many cycles brothers
4
Wath is that a steam engine.
does it lubricate well in the long run or it's expected to seize and rust if run for prolonged period of time?
If run as is, it would rust up. The crankcase is still oil filled as it was when it was a combustion engine and turns into a water/oil emulsified mess pretty quickly. If you wanted run this more long term, it would need steam cylinder oil to the upper cylinder somehow. The crankcase oil needs to be changed every run. You could possibly cut out the lower crankcase area and install grease fittings to lube the crank journal instead. Either way, it would need lubrication attention every run. I never really ever planned on this running long term, more of a project just to see if I could do it. I'm kinda curious to see if it would hold up with actual use though...might have to pull it out of the corner of the garage and play with it again.
@@simoman6847 thx. Since steam engines used to run in the old times I assumed there are ways, but was wondering how hard would it be to do. Generating steam from solar is pretty cheap imo so i'm wondering why aren't such projects more common.
@@ionbara4594 I think to most people, it just isn't very practical. Water and most metals aren't very good friends, so steam engines require constant maintenance to keep them lubed and operating properly. More maintenance isn't something most people are looking for. Plus, operating any steam boiler is inherently dangerous. An exploding pressure vessel could easily kill someone, or at the very least, take off a limb and cover you in boiling water...not good. I would by no means, consider the boiler I used here "safe". I kept the pressure pretty low, installed a blow off valve on the tank, and made damn sure it was always full of water...Heating a dry boiler is guaranteed failure. I want to make a better boiler and run this engine again to do some work with it. Definitely not trying to deter you, I say go for it and build one, it was a lot of fun. Just be safe!
What is the rpm of a steam engine
I wish I knew, that was something I meant to check and never did. I really need to dig this out of the back of the garage to test rpm and add an alternator, I have an alternator sitting there waiting to get mounted to it.
@@simoman6847 cool idea
you oiled your steam ?
+shayson1357 I did attempt to. There is an inline air tool oiler installed between the ball valve and inlet. Totally did not work. I was filling it with light machine oil, and all the oil would be gone after only a few seconds of running on steam. I did get some proper steam cylinder oil with a model live steam engine, I'll try that in the oiler next time this runs on steam and see if that works better.
Something called a "hydrostatic lubricator" would work great for this. Yes you need steam cylinder oil as the regular light-weight oil does nothing at all at the temperatures in the steam, where as the steam cylinder oil actually stays oil and mixes with the water in the system and lubricates everything that way. I was wondering... It sounds like your exhaust valve is being held open at a wrong time. Like the valve clearances are a bit off. Have checked that at all? If you get that exhaust leak dealt with, you would have allot more power out of the thing!
what steam
Would you be able to mount the boiler and engine to a wheeled frame and make a small steam car? My friend and I are trying to build a steam car, and I want to know if a converted engine such as this would have enough power to move itself.
I have actually seen it done but he has no way to oil his engine so it's going to come flying apart sooner or later
There’s only 2 problems! N.o.1 water and oil don’t mix! N.o.2 It might rust!
If you run it enough, it shouldn’t be a problem.
agave 58-58 ok
@@legowarriorsadventure3613 You could also put a high-temperature copper coating on the piston and cylinder walls to prevent the engine from rusting. Considering there's no combustion it should stay but you might be limited to just the top of the piston because of friction.
😊😊👍👍
based
Mujhe yah kharidna h
3hp?!
As an internal combustion engine, it was originally rated at 3.5 hp. No idea what it really is on steam or air.
See ya in school >:)
Just port the steam in the exhaust port you won't have to fool with the cams. I dunno for the life of me why you made it so complicated.
Just to bother you specifically. He waited minutes, hours, years! Just to get to this moment to bother you.
Vem bater o som do motor kkkk
que bien. interesante.?
1:37 please, tell your neighbours to keep their deamons down