Today we take out the terrbile Maple Leaf MR hop bucking and replace it with the new 4uantum bucking and nub, let's see if this revives this bench warmer!
How are you on Polarstar knowledge? Well it's not really a Polarstar question more of an accuracy issue I'm having trouble diagnosing. Great videos, keep going!
Gonna need some more specifics than that :P Certainly happy to help though! Accuracy usually starts at the hop and barrel, following that I usually check for solid stability between the inner and outer barrel, then the outer barrel to receiver (any wobble could induce inaccuracy) and then finally upper receiver to lower. Now fixing any wobble is another matter which could be solved by drilling a small hole and using a pin or threading the hole and using a grub screw (Negative Airsoft did a great one showcasing this method a while back). Alternatively shimming can work though tends to be more challenging. I generally try to avoid any actual modification like that if I can as it's easy to get wrong and make things much worse or completely brick a gun.
@@SabreAirsoftUK Thanks for the info, I've just got a very nightmarish polarstar that I can't see to get to shoot straight. It's P* F2 in a Retroarms Sekeltonized Receiver and Retroarms HPA gearbox. It has a MAXX M4P (The one designed for HPA) a PDI barrel and super macaron bucking with the MAXX hard concave nub (The barrel, bucking and nub I've swapped and yet to test). I USED to run a Begadi SHP 50 with the flat MAXX bucking and a Prometheus Returner barrel and it was absolutely horrific, bad accuracy, bad consistency at chrono and bb's either under or over hopping with no inbetween and getting bad left and right deviation. As you can tell I've put quite a lot of money into this pew and chasing the issues down, hoping this new setup I'm trying will fix it. I've also ordered the Airtac True centering unit kit for the new gen of MAXX's to eliminate all play which be arriving shortly. I know I've just dropped a ton of info on you there but that's the situation I'm in. If I can't sort this myself I've half a mind to drop it to a good tech with a high budget and have them see if they could get it shooting lasers or if I REALLY had to just picking up an MTW.
Yup definitely a bit of an info dump there! ok let's see what we can puzzle out. The first thing I would do when testing is eliminate the human factor, make sure the gun is on a rest or something similar that eliminates any deviation introduced by you, no matter how good you are there will always be some. Next thing to figure out is when the deviation is introduced (left and right), if for example it's immediate then I would be inclined to think the bore of the barrel isn't straight, even "high end" barrels can be lemons. If however the deviation starts somewhere further along the flight path (usually where you would expect the magnus effect to kick in) then this would suggest the pressure from the nub and bucking is being applied unevenly, this isn't impossible with a max hop but is a bit harder to diagnose, double and triple checking alignment would be my step there. I would also check the bucking for any damage at all, flex the bucking incase there is a hidden flaw in the contact patch like a micro crack, even new ones can have them and this could be the cause. After those basic things we start getting into throwing shit and the wall and seeing what sticks territory, frame alignment, nozzle bucking interface etc etc. As for the hop sometimes overhopping and sometimes under hopping, again this could be the barrel OR it could be that the round being loaded each time is not stopping at the same spot every time leading to differing levels of hop being applied, resolving this is a little trickier as it's down to bucking design as much as it is nozzle spacing.
Nice vid again :)
as always, opa opa
How are you on Polarstar knowledge? Well it's not really a Polarstar question more of an accuracy issue I'm having trouble diagnosing. Great videos, keep going!
Gonna need some more specifics than that :P Certainly happy to help though! Accuracy usually starts at the hop and barrel, following that I usually check for solid stability between the inner and outer barrel, then the outer barrel to receiver (any wobble could induce inaccuracy) and then finally upper receiver to lower.
Now fixing any wobble is another matter which could be solved by drilling a small hole and using a pin or threading the hole and using a grub screw (Negative Airsoft did a great one showcasing this method a while back). Alternatively shimming can work though tends to be more challenging. I generally try to avoid any actual modification like that if I can as it's easy to get wrong and make things much worse or completely brick a gun.
@@SabreAirsoftUK Thanks for the info, I've just got a very nightmarish polarstar that I can't see to get to shoot straight. It's P* F2 in a Retroarms Sekeltonized Receiver and Retroarms HPA gearbox. It has a MAXX M4P (The one designed for HPA) a PDI barrel and super macaron bucking with the MAXX hard concave nub (The barrel, bucking and nub I've swapped and yet to test). I USED to run a Begadi SHP 50 with the flat MAXX bucking and a Prometheus Returner barrel and it was absolutely horrific, bad accuracy, bad consistency at chrono and bb's either under or over hopping with no inbetween and getting bad left and right deviation.
As you can tell I've put quite a lot of money into this pew and chasing the issues down, hoping this new setup I'm trying will fix it. I've also ordered the Airtac True centering unit kit for the new gen of MAXX's to eliminate all play which be arriving shortly.
I know I've just dropped a ton of info on you there but that's the situation I'm in. If I can't sort this myself I've half a mind to drop it to a good tech with a high budget and have them see if they could get it shooting lasers or if I REALLY had to just picking up an MTW.
Yup definitely a bit of an info dump there! ok let's see what we can puzzle out.
The first thing I would do when testing is eliminate the human factor, make sure the gun is on a rest or something similar that eliminates any deviation introduced by you, no matter how good you are there will always be some.
Next thing to figure out is when the deviation is introduced (left and right), if for example it's immediate then I would be inclined to think the bore of the barrel isn't straight, even "high end" barrels can be lemons. If however the deviation starts somewhere further along the flight path (usually where you would expect the magnus effect to kick in) then this would suggest the pressure from the nub and bucking is being applied unevenly, this isn't impossible with a max hop but is a bit harder to diagnose, double and triple checking alignment would be my step there. I would also check the bucking for any damage at all, flex the bucking incase there is a hidden flaw in the contact patch like a micro crack, even new ones can have them and this could be the cause.
After those basic things we start getting into throwing shit and the wall and seeing what sticks territory, frame alignment, nozzle bucking interface etc etc.
As for the hop sometimes overhopping and sometimes under hopping, again this could be the barrel OR it could be that the round being loaded each time is not stopping at the same spot every time leading to differing levels of hop being applied, resolving this is a little trickier as it's down to bucking design as much as it is nozzle spacing.
@SabreAirsoftUK cheers for the info going to attempt to apply this knowledge chasing down any issues.
Best of luck! If you need any more help just get in touch info@sabreairsoftuk.com