Thanks! I understand these functions better now. The camera I got is a Reflex and has an extra element under the arm, with a metal piece under it, connecting its back lever to the shutter door and it's stuck in the down position. I don't want to force it up, so if you know what I should do, please do let me know, thanks!
A sample would be nice. I have one of those cameras and will try it some day. Nice correct example. I only shoot 16mm b&w reversal nowadays and develop it myself thus lowering costs.
Hello, when you adjust the viewer to your eyes, this works only for people who don't see well things that are near, right? If I have myopia it does not work for me? Thank you!
Hi Gerald, I was trying to figure out the difference between the upper dial and lower dial of the frame counter, but I couldn't find an explanation on the internet that I understood. When reading for double exposure, do I read the upper dial, or the lower dial?
You read both of them. When you are shooting with the camera, the upper counter will move fairly quickly as it is counting frames, rotating once every fifty frames. The lower counter also moves at the same time and tells you the overall number of frames. For example: if you zero both counters then shoot for exactly ten seconds, what you will find is that the lower counter will say that you have shot between 200 and 250 frames. You look at the upper counter and it would say "40". This gives you the more precise number, which would be 240 frames.
i've heard of people using the rewind lever/key to actually film like they actually captured footage hand cranking the film through the bolex. Would you know how to achieve this?
Not difficult. Similar to the process of rewinding, you disengage the motor but don't rewind and don't close off the lens. Turn the crank the opposite way as the indicated tells you and the camera gate will open and close and the film will advance forward. The tricky part is calculating the exposure. To do that, you would want to remove the lens and observe how many times the gate opens and closes with each revolution of the crank (I think it is six, but I don't have one in front me me right now). If that number is correct, and if you turn the crank at the rate of once per second, then you would expose each frame for one twelfth of a second and you'll need to set your Fstop for that. Put the lens back on, measure your light, set your f-stop based upon how fast you are comfortable turning the crank, and make a movie. Often when you stop, you have a fifty/fifty chance of having the gate partially open and giving you a flash frame. Expect this, it will be unavoidable.
hey gerald, one more thing. If I am not too concerned with the exactness of my impositions and just really want to double expose the whole roll, could i shoot almost the entire roll and then use the rewind key to pull the film all the way back?
You could do that. Rewinding takes quite a while. I imagine it would take 15 minutes or more to rewind a whole roll. Optionally, you could shoot the whole thing then use rewinds in a dark room to wind back to the start and then reload it.
Thanks! I understand these functions better now.
The camera I got is a Reflex and has an extra element under the arm, with a metal piece under it, connecting its back lever to the shutter door and it's stuck in the down position. I don't want to force it up, so if you know what I should do, please do let me know, thanks!
Good for the classic dissolve also, loved mine. Too expensive to run though.
One day hopefully later this year I’ll be able a reflex model H16 but until then this non-reflex H16 will have to do.
have you used the rex o fader to do lap dissolves? i'm wondering if its possible to control the duration of the dissolve?
A sample would be nice. I have one of those cameras and will try it some day. Nice correct example. I only shoot 16mm b&w reversal nowadays and develop it myself thus lowering costs.
Interesting.Cheers!
Hello, when you adjust the viewer to your eyes, this works only for people who don't see well things that are near, right? If I have myopia it does not work for me? Thank you!
amazing video. mega thanks!
Hi Gerald, I was trying to figure out the difference between the upper dial and lower dial of the frame counter, but I couldn't find an explanation on the internet that I understood. When reading for double exposure, do I read the upper dial, or the lower dial?
You read both of them. When you are shooting with the camera, the upper counter will move fairly quickly as it is counting frames, rotating once every fifty frames. The lower counter also moves at the same time and tells you the overall number of frames. For example: if you zero both counters then shoot for exactly ten seconds, what you will find is that the lower counter will say that you have shot between 200 and 250 frames. You look at the upper counter and it would say "40". This gives you the more precise number, which would be 240 frames.
i've heard of people using the rewind lever/key to actually film like they actually captured footage hand cranking the film through the bolex. Would you know how to achieve this?
Not difficult. Similar to the process of rewinding, you disengage the motor but don't rewind and don't close off the lens. Turn the crank the opposite way as the indicated tells you and the camera gate will open and close and the film will advance forward. The tricky part is calculating the exposure. To do that, you would want to remove the lens and observe how many times the gate opens and closes with each revolution of the crank (I think it is six, but I don't have one in front me me right now). If that number is correct, and if you turn the crank at the rate of once per second, then you would expose each frame for one twelfth of a second and you'll need to set your Fstop for that. Put the lens back on, measure your light, set your f-stop based upon how fast you are comfortable turning the crank, and make a movie. Often when you stop, you have a fifty/fifty chance of having the gate partially open and giving you a flash frame. Expect this, it will be unavoidable.
Hi gerald, can i use my hand to rewind the knob or do i have to have a rewind key?
Unfortunately, you definitely need the key. The gear is inset and there is no way to access it with your hands or even a pair of pliers.
Gerald Saul yeah that seems to be the case. Working on getting a key
hey gerald, one more thing. If I am not too concerned with the exactness of my impositions and just really want to double expose the whole roll, could i shoot almost the entire roll and then use the rewind key to pull the film all the way back?
You could do that. Rewinding takes quite a while. I imagine it would take 15 minutes or more to rewind a whole roll. Optionally, you could shoot the whole thing then use rewinds in a dark room to wind back to the start and then reload it.
yeah i could do that too. thanks