This is exactly the solution I was looking for! Thanks for posting this. So much of the info online is “vessel sinks without overflows are just slow to drain…” Is the white air gap part necessary, or does the hose opening just need to be above the drain level?
From a non professional plumber's perspective here... we would suggest using the fairly cheap Air Gap part, simply because I believe (not positive) that they are a one-way valve, which helps prevent water from being able to come out of them in the event they somehow fall down and are below the level of the water. While a simple tube would probably work fine 99% of the time, that 1% when the tube gets bumped and falls down somehow and then you get water slowly leaking under the cabinet may not be worth the risk!
If the underneath plumbing became clogged... then yes the water could back up into the sink drain and overflow drain, and would then spill over the sink and countertop- but shouldn't be able to flood 'under the sink' as all the pipes are connected and should be air/water tight.
So if water backed up, it 'could' probably come out the airgap. That's why putting the air gap as high as possible is important. If things were clogged below, then the sink would also fill up with water to the height of the location of the airgap fitting, before any water could come out of the airgap.
Sorry this was not explained thoroughly. Your description of the parts were lacking and also you did not include all the parts. What is the silver cap for the end of the hose? You should have shown the actual connection.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video
Any chance you could actually list out the name of the parts so we can be sure to buy the right thing at HD? Thanks so much!
This is exactly the solution I was looking for! Thanks for posting this. So much of the info online is “vessel sinks without overflows are just slow to drain…”
Is the white air gap part necessary, or does the hose opening just need to be above the drain level?
From a non professional plumber's perspective here... we would suggest using the fairly cheap Air Gap part, simply because I believe (not positive) that they are a one-way valve, which helps prevent water from being able to come out of them in the event they somehow fall down and are below the level of the water. While a simple tube would probably work fine 99% of the time, that 1% when the tube gets bumped and falls down somehow and then you get water slowly leaking under the cabinet may not be worth the risk!
@@ExpressionsLTD Solid reasoning- I'll splurge and install the air gap too. Thanks again for sharing this info, my sink install is saved!
if the drain gets clogged/backed up from something farther down the line could it overflow into the air gap and flod under the sink?
If the underneath plumbing became clogged... then yes the water could back up into the sink drain and overflow drain, and would then spill over the sink and countertop- but shouldn't be able to flood 'under the sink' as all the pipes are connected and should be air/water tight.
So if water backed up, it 'could' probably come out the airgap. That's why putting the air gap as high as possible is important. If things were clogged below, then the sink would also fill up with water to the height of the location of the airgap fitting, before any water could come out of the airgap.
Хоршая работа
Sorry this was not explained thoroughly. Your description of the parts were lacking and also you did not include all the parts. What is the silver cap for the end of the hose? You should have shown the actual connection.