Great video, just want to mention that the service manual recommends to replace both the slide bolts and carrier bolts. Especially the carrier bolts as they are stretched 90 deg past their required torque spec
And this is why I hate servicing the rear brakes of my 2012 Passat. It was a pain to replace just the brake pads 4 years ago. I had to buy that special tool to compress the pistons, which actually was not a bad idea since I used it too for my other cars. But now, I am looking at replacing the rotor...I think Ill just go have my trusted shop do that since I dont think Ill get those triple square bolts out with just using my jacks lifting the car with not much clearance.
I ordered a 272mm rear rotors and 288mm Front Rotors (I didn't know their were differences in sizes I just knew the performance brake all in one kits were 312mm so figured I was fine...) Then found out the matching brake pads recommended for the rotors wouldn't fit my factory calipers. So I didn't even bother to see if the rotors would fit with the calipers because I guess the car is a 253mm in the rear and a 280mm in the front. I didn't wanna mess with the rotors anyways because of compressing the calipers in the rear, the triple square bolts in an awkward spot and the expensive torque to yield bolts in the front calipers you need to replace with 85 torque spec.. You gotta remove all that crap on the motor just to get to the brake reservoir. Gotta have the abs pump running so you can properly bleed it. No wonder shops including the dealerships charge a small fortune to work on these cars.
Good video, but be careful to buy the correct rear pads. My 2015 had a different style pad based on the build date and I received the wrong ones from RockAuto. The Triple Square bolts holding the caliper bracket were extremely difficult to remove with the car on jack stands compared to when using a lift that provides additional clearance as showed in the video. Make sure you have a good long handle ratchet for leverage such as extendable ratchet from harbor freight. Anti-seize compound is a must when reinserting the triple square bolts to ensure you can remove them in the future.
I did buy the kit and assumed that my 2015 Passat TDI SEL premium was the same. I started with the reat and when I got the caliper carrier out, it did not come with clips. I needed a different design pad for my brakes(VW brake part 7NO698451-A). Of course I did not know this until I started taking things apart. So if you have a 2015, B7 Passat, there are now 2 "as built" designs for the rear brakes, the one shown in the video(ECS part ES#2739222) and a second with the clip already attached (ECS part ES#3151703 or VW7NO698451-A) to the brake pad. (Please look to see if you have the slides attached to the pad, or slides with the caliper if you buy the kit.) Also note, the VW part number for the clip attached pads is shown with the independent slides, so the picture is wrong.
Oh yes, the rear install went similar to your video with the exception of the pads which took an extra 1 hour to obtain from VW. The price was $135 us for the pads which came with the new slide bolts(not the slide). Total job took 4 hours for the rear and it was my first brake job. Everything worked out as expected. Oh yes the triple Squares are not available at Harbor Freight and the guy at Harbor Freight does not know why people are asking him for the part. I got my set of triple square($14) from Amazon with the wind back kit($23). Thank you for showing us the process.
Hey, i have a passat 2012 b7 1.4 ecofuel, and im stressing myself out.. I have the scan tool to retract the caliper piston. And i bought a normal piston tool that just pushes back the piston straight. Do i need the tool that rotates the piston? And do i need any other tools to do the rear brakes? Im trying to find information but many people say different.. thanks
@@user-cw3kp9mc6q On the 2015, the front ones were the push back type. The rear ones are the wind back type. I ended up buying the push back and the wind back tool. The wind back was from Harbor Freight, and it was about $35 with the different wind back fittings for various cars. The only caution about the rear brakes are the two different as built brake pad systems. Take a look before you start the brake job and make sure that you have the design that is shown in this video. If you dont, then you need the other part number listed above. Even VW dealer will bring out the wrong part before going those don't match. then they will go find the other brake pad number. If you are nervous about this job, then write out the sequence for disassembly and the sequence for reassembly. Pay attention to the various rachet fitting because a general tool kit does not have those specific tools. When I was done, I had about $100 in special tools to do the front and back brake jobs. It cost me about $800 to do front and back. The VW dealer wanted $1400 for this job and they could only do it during the week.
@@gibblespascack1418 I appreciate you replying with all this information. I found the wind back tool on amazon for all kinds of cars, and i heard you need some triple square things to remove the caliper or something on the rear. I asked a good mechanic and he was 120 dollars for the rear and 250 dollars for the front including new brake fluid and the flush. So i might just do the brakes at home, and go do the brake fluid flush at the mechanic.
@@user-cw3kp9mc6q Yes I had to buy the triple square too. It was like $7 on amazon for my rachet. I never did the brake fluid change, did not feel that it was necessary since I did not have to bleed the brakes. On mine a few of the bolts were tight, so I needed to use the half inch torque wrench to break them lose. The ECS kit provided the replacement bolts for almost everything. That kind of helps if the car lived in the snow belt.
Good Video. I bought a similar piston compression tools for my 2015 Golf. I was confident I could do this repair until I saw all the problems you had with it. Now I am worried.
The procedure is exactly the same for electronic handbrake,just did mine,also those multi square drive is often refered to as a spline shaft M14,watch out for the Passats that run a M17,stupid idea,as its very hard to find a M17,but they are out there aftermarket.
30nm for the front guide pins & 35nm for the rear. The manual says 200nm for the caliper carrier bolts, which seem excessively high so I went with 100nm. ALWAYS use blue thread locker on brake bolts.
Anyone who stumbles on this video... The rear brake pistons must be rotated clockwise and compressed at the same time! That's why his seal blew. Make sure you are rotating the rears. The front pistons don't require the rotation. Good luck!
@@rippingstone I just got a whole set of impact grade sockets, pads and only one rotor showed up. As soon as I get the other rotor, and do the job I’ll post for you.
@@rippingstone Right on. I was hoping to find out before I bought a set. I was hoping to know so I could just buy that one or burrow one from my buddy. Oh well.
@@ModernEngineer Thank you. I purchased the ECS Turing kit and the $10 in tools for the front that I don't own. Next I will get the caliper push back tools for the rear($40). Hopefully when brake kit arrives from ECS, I will be able to save the $900 that VW wanted to charge for labor.
@@gibblespascack1418 Hey, i have a passat 2012 b7 1.4 ecofuel, and im stressing myself out.. I have the scan tool to retract the caliper piston. And i bought a normal piston tool that just pushes back the piston straight. Do i need the tool that rotates the piston? And do i need any other tools to do the rear brakes? Im trying to find information but many people say different.. thanks
M14 for the rear, 21mm socket for the front. Also you need to use new bolts for the rear because they are 'stretch' bolts. Need to be torqued 90Nm plus 90deg(1/4 turn). Some engineering reason that I can't explain; the front aren't stretch.
if you have the 253mm diameter rear rotors (the smaller of the two size rotors that fit the 1.8L engine) you don't have to remove the caliper bracket you can wiggle out the rotors once you remove the caliper and set screw...super easy. And this gentlemen didn't know how to use the caliper compression tool properly, if he did he would not have damaged the caliper
Thanks! I never encountered the rear breaks like this before! You totally saved me! Appreciate you taking the time to record this!
Great video, just want to mention that the service manual recommends to replace both the slide bolts and carrier bolts. Especially the carrier bolts as they are stretched 90 deg past their required torque spec
And this is why I hate servicing the rear brakes of my 2012 Passat. It was a pain to replace just the brake pads 4 years ago. I had to buy that special tool to compress the pistons, which actually was not a bad idea since I used it too for my other cars. But now, I am looking at replacing the rotor...I think Ill just go have my trusted shop do that since I dont think Ill get those triple square bolts out with just using my jacks lifting the car with not much clearance.
I revisit your video every couple years it seems 😅
I ordered a 272mm rear rotors and 288mm Front Rotors (I didn't know their were differences in sizes I just knew the performance brake all in one kits were 312mm so figured I was fine...) Then found out the matching brake pads recommended for the rotors wouldn't fit my factory calipers. So I didn't even bother to see if the rotors would fit with the calipers because I guess the car is a 253mm in the rear and a 280mm in the front. I didn't wanna mess with the rotors anyways because of compressing the calipers in the rear, the triple square bolts in an awkward spot and the expensive torque to yield bolts in the front calipers you need to replace with 85 torque spec.. You gotta remove all that crap on the motor just to get to the brake reservoir. Gotta have the abs pump running so you can properly bleed it. No wonder shops including the dealerships charge a small fortune to work on these cars.
Good video, but be careful to buy the correct rear pads. My 2015 had a different style pad based on the build date and I received the wrong ones from RockAuto. The Triple Square bolts holding the caliper bracket were extremely difficult to remove with the car on jack stands compared to when using a lift that provides additional clearance as showed in the video. Make sure you have a good long handle ratchet for leverage such as extendable ratchet from harbor freight. Anti-seize compound is a must when reinserting the triple square bolts to ensure you can remove them in the future.
This wrong one from rock auto scares me. I bought them 6 months ago and never installed the rear yet because of the complexity 😢
This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much!
Check your coil springs too while youre there. They have a habit of breaking. Easy to change
I did buy the kit and assumed that my 2015 Passat TDI SEL premium was the same. I started with the reat and when I got the caliper carrier out, it did not come with clips. I needed a different design pad for my brakes(VW brake part 7NO698451-A). Of course I did not know this until I started taking things apart. So if you have a 2015, B7 Passat, there are now 2 "as built" designs for the rear brakes, the one shown in the video(ECS part ES#2739222) and a second with the clip already attached (ECS part ES#3151703 or VW7NO698451-A) to the brake pad. (Please look to see if you have the slides attached to the pad, or slides with the caliper if you buy the kit.) Also note, the VW part number for the clip attached pads is shown with the independent slides, so the picture is wrong.
Oh yes, the rear install went similar to your video with the exception of the pads which took an extra 1 hour to obtain from VW. The price was $135 us for the pads which came with the new slide bolts(not the slide). Total job took 4 hours for the rear and it was my first brake job. Everything worked out as expected. Oh yes the triple Squares are not available at Harbor Freight and the guy at Harbor Freight does not know why people are asking him for the part. I got my set of triple square($14) from Amazon with the wind back kit($23). Thank you for showing us the process.
Hey, i have a passat 2012 b7 1.4 ecofuel, and im stressing myself out.. I have the scan tool to retract the caliper piston. And i bought a normal piston tool that just pushes back the piston straight. Do i need the tool that rotates the piston? And do i need any other tools to do the rear brakes? Im trying to find information but many people say different.. thanks
@@user-cw3kp9mc6q On the 2015, the front ones were the push back type. The rear ones are the wind back type. I ended up buying the push back and the wind back tool. The wind back was from Harbor Freight, and it was about $35 with the different wind back fittings for various cars. The only caution about the rear brakes are the two different as built brake pad systems. Take a look before you start the brake job and make sure that you have the design that is shown in this video. If you dont, then you need the other part number listed above. Even VW dealer will bring out the wrong part before going those don't match. then they will go find the other brake pad number. If you are nervous about this job, then write out the sequence for disassembly and the sequence for reassembly. Pay attention to the various rachet fitting because a general tool kit does not have those specific tools. When I was done, I had about $100 in special tools to do the front and back brake jobs. It cost me about $800 to do front and back. The VW dealer wanted $1400 for this job and they could only do it during the week.
@@gibblespascack1418 I appreciate you replying with all this information. I found the wind back tool on amazon for all kinds of cars, and i heard you need some triple square things to remove the caliper or something on the rear. I asked a good mechanic and he was 120 dollars for the rear and 250 dollars for the front including new brake fluid and the flush. So i might just do the brakes at home, and go do the brake fluid flush at the mechanic.
@@user-cw3kp9mc6q Yes I had to buy the triple square too. It was like $7 on amazon for my rachet. I never did the brake fluid change, did not feel that it was necessary since I did not have to bleed the brakes. On mine a few of the bolts were tight, so I needed to use the half inch torque wrench to break them lose. The ECS kit provided the replacement bolts for almost everything. That kind of helps if the car lived in the snow belt.
Good Video. I bought a similar piston compression tools for my 2015 Golf. I was confident I could do this repair until I saw all the problems you had with it. Now I am worried.
The procedure is exactly the same for electronic handbrake,just did mine,also those multi square drive is often refered to as a spline shaft M14,watch out for the Passats that run a M17,stupid idea,as its very hard to find a M17,but they are out there aftermarket.
As good as majority of video was, something like the size of the triple square would be extremely helpful. What size is it?
14
I'm saying lmao I just started on mine
The torque specs would be nice. Although, the old fashioned "arm-strong" has worked for decades. As long as nothing gets bent or broken...
30nm for the front guide pins & 35nm for the rear. The manual says 200nm for the caliper carrier bolts, which seem excessively high so I went with 100nm. ALWAYS use blue thread locker on brake bolts.
Can you get those triple square bolts off if you’ve just got a jack to get it off the ground?
Anyone who stumbles on this video... The rear brake pistons must be rotated clockwise and compressed at the same time! That's why his seal blew. Make sure you are rotating the rears. The front pistons don't require the rotation. Good luck!
Isnt that what he did? He used the caliper tool with the appropriate insert to rotate the piston didn't he?
How can you two at the same time: two people ?
The seal blew because the owner drove these pads to bare metal so the piston extended too far. I rotated and compressed the piston.
Well done! Thank you for sharing.
Zimmerman pads & rotors are very good parts for vw audi from fcp Euro
Thanks for your help.!
If that rotor screw strips, you can drill out the head easily. Maybe 5 min extra.
What size triple squares were used for this?
14
I suppose yours doesn't have the electronic hand brake. You need to wind that back first don't you?
Informational video lacking information i.e. what size triple square socket did you use?
Thats what I was wondering too!
@@wheelstandr same, if you can find out post it please
@@rippingstone I just got a whole set of impact grade sockets, pads and only one rotor showed up. As soon as I get the other rotor, and do the job I’ll post for you.
@@wheelstandr I actually managed to find out what size it is, it’s a 14mm triple square socket
@@rippingstone Right on. I was hoping to find out before I bought a set. I was hoping to know so I could just buy that one or burrow one from my buddy. Oh well.
Does each rear piston turn the same way when compressing, or does one turn in reverse when compressing?
Clockwise to compress on both sides.
@@ModernEngineer Thank you. I purchased the ECS Turing kit and the $10 in tools for the front that I don't own. Next I will get the caliper push back tools for the rear($40). Hopefully when brake kit arrives from ECS, I will be able to save the $900 that VW wanted to charge for labor.
@@gibblespascack1418 Hey, i have a passat 2012 b7 1.4 ecofuel, and im stressing myself out.. I have the scan tool to retract the caliper piston. And i bought a normal piston tool that just pushes back the piston straight. Do i need the tool that rotates the piston? And do i need any other tools to do the rear brakes? Im trying to find information but many people say different.. thanks
@@user-cw3kp9mc6q Sorry, it was $40 at harbor freight for the wind back tool kit that I needed on my 2015. MDRN engineer was correct for my 2015 TDI.
hex(alen) bolts in the front, tripple square bolts in the back, torx screws ...wtf was vw thinking?
Das auto
They want u to bring your car to the dealer 😢
What size is the triple square
The one reason I came to this video too.....next 😒
M14 for the rear, 21mm socket for the front. Also you need to use new bolts for the rear because they are 'stretch' bolts. Need to be torqued 90Nm plus 90deg(1/4 turn). Some engineering reason that I can't explain; the front aren't stretch.
what kind of lube is that?
Now I see it needs a stupid tool. I been trying with a c clamp and wondering why the piece of junk won't go in.
I used c clamps and some pliers 😅
How in the hell can someone run the brakes until they end up like that?
I didn't have to remove my caliper brackets to remove the rotors.
Details? Have this job coming up and would prefer to avoid the triple square bolts
if you have the 253mm diameter rear rotors (the smaller of the two size rotors that fit the 1.8L engine) you don't have to remove the caliper bracket you can wiggle out the rotors once you remove the caliper and set screw...super easy. And this gentlemen didn't know how to use the caliper compression tool properly, if he did he would not have damaged the caliper
The most important part is the one you messed up. What a waist of time.
What did he do wrong? Compress too fast?