Needle clip down 1 notch to bring the needle valve up 1 notch, main jets are really only for 3/4 to WOT. Needle valve is 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, pilot jet is idle to 1/4. Then their is needle taper and OD which should be good unless porting and or head work is done. Now each jet does fade into each other's range slightly. Don't get to carried away turning mixture screws. You should be able to find in carb lititurature, something like more than x turns on mix screw, move up 1 jet or clip size ect. Change only 1 thing at a time or you'll have no idea where your at.
So...unscrewing your pilot screw is adding more air to your pilot jet circuit, and you are saying that enriches the fuel? More air at the low rpm circuit should be leaning your mixture. What’s going on here?
I did mine in each carbulator 3 1/2 + 1/4 turn. I don't know how thats call. but 3 turns and half plus 1/4 or the middle betwen 3 1/2 and 4. What I did is that I adjust each one till the end and star unscrew them slowly counting the turns.
I have a 99 r6 and I've adjusted mine every which way and I still get a jerky throttle and hesitation around 3-6k. Its got a stubby exhaust and ivans tuning kit with screws set at 2.5 turns. 3.5 is way too much for mine, it's already over fueling and bogs if I give it too much gas, plugs get slightly sooted up. I've cleaned the carbs several times and synced them. Any advice?
After this video I figured out even more what my problem was. I know exactly what you mean by jerky in that RPM range. I have a couple questions, do you hear a popping sound out of the exhaust when you let off the throttle? If you do then you are actually running lean. I had to turn my screws to 5 out and now I have zero popping and smooth acceleration. Bogging when you give a lot of throttle also is a sign of lean fuel. Also if you are running a K&N filter that also causes issues, run stock the filter. But with your exhaust set up I would say 2.5 turns out wouldn't be enough but it also depends on what size jets you installed. Do you remember the number?
Kevin Wipp I have an 01 R6 with a slip on and new stock air filter with a stage 1 dynojet. mine are set 2-2.5 turns out and it runs awesome. (jets are 142, 140, 140, 142)
can't remember the jet size, it's whatever was in the ivan's tuning kit. standard air filter, no k&n. I've got a 07 r6 exhaust modified to fit mine so very short but it runs better than it did with the old akro can I just took off. it doesn't pop with the new exhaust but does pop a little when maintaining speed. it goes really well 6k+. gas milage is shocking 75-100miles per tank, black around exhaust tip. That's what makes me say over fueling.
Black around exhaust and black on spark plugs is a sign of lean fueling. I only say this because I thought the exact same thing just 2 weeks ago until I researched it. I would say turn your screws out to 4 and see what happens. Rich doesn't hurt anything but lean is horrible for the engine.
+Kevin Wipp Hi Kevin, I've just got back from a quick test ride after I screwed out the mixture screw to 3.5 turns from 2.5 turns. it's hard to tell if it's made any difference but id say it's slightly worse, 3-6k rpm twist the throttle it just bogg's (more throttle makes it worse) then if I ease off the revs will go up slow until 6k then it goes like hell regardless of throttle position. When you pull out from a junction rolling in 1st you smoothly apply the throttle it lunges for a split second then it dies then it goes, smooths out at 3k. so if I pull out from a junction with it above 3k the bike seams smooth but you can't hit the throttle until 6k. this bike has been terrible since I bought it, I bought it to streetfighter it and since I've owned/converted it its been like this which is 3years ago, I really don't want to give up on it but I'm loosing enjoyment in it. can we chat further via email so I can show you some footage and also what I've done? rich.dodd@live.co.uk
Yeah, you should run a filter for these. The tanks are known to rust. That filter will keep your carbs from getting plugged up. Only takes a dusting and the jets will be clogged.
Hey, I'm looking for clues to fix my '99 R6. Everything is fine until it's in gear and under acceleration. It idles and revs in neutral, but when I put it into gear and apply throttle I'm getting surges of acceleration and engine braking. When I pull the clutch in and begin to slow the bike drops rpm's and dies. Carbs have been rebuilt, stator, rectifier, cdi/ecu, wiring connecitons, all 4 headers heat up, and throttle position sensor all check out. I'm may check the coil packs over the weekend but my only other guess is maybe a piston ring/s are deteriorated. The bike has 28k. Any help would be appreciated.
if your piston rings are bad then i would think you would get bad compression? have you done a compression test? its really easy to do if you rent the right tools.
been doing tests with a multimeter and the manual hoping it was just electrical. since it sounds so nice at idle and reving up in neutral i haven't taken the bike apart yet
I have a YZF600r that I bought and it has a K&N intake, as well as an exhaust (not headers just a slip on exhaust around where the rear brake is.) Would these 2 mods cause a high idle if the carbs weren't rejetted? My bike is having issues starting, like it gets too much air, but then once it is started the idle is very high
Davis Wiker to me it sounds like a vacuum leak. you can spray wd40 all around the carbs and if your idle acts different you know you have a vac leak. Also have you tried adjusting the idle knob and are you using the choke when you try to start the bike on a cold start?
Kevin Wipp I'll give that a shot, but with the air box off I have to cover the carbs to get the bike to start. With the air box on I have to cover the two pipes that come off of it into the front cowling. my choke was stuck the plastic that the electronics under the air box are mounted to had slid down under it and were holding it. I fixed that, I've adjusted the idle screw and it hasn't helped, I feel the carbs may be out of sync.
Main jets 155 and 150 but from what? If you don't get enough gas at the mid range you need to raise the jet needle in the needle jet, not mess with the idle mixture.
Snurre86 Jets from Factory Pro. I used all 3 points, mix screw, jets, and needle clip adjustment to tune my carbs. I have since put a full M4 exhaust system and the bike is running amazing.
I don't really care what you ended up doing, I am concerned with what you tell people to do in the video. You need to say what main jets you took out of the carbs. Also the numbers makes no sense as all the manufacturers have different sizes to there numbers as there is no standard there. See www.rx7club.com/attachments/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/555804d1427163915-possible-mikuni-jet-kit-our-nikki-aefd709b-7cce-b81b.jpg
Snurre86 so angry. The video was to show you can adjust without tearing everything off the bike. If you took it like I'm telling everyone to set their bike up like mine, well, that's your own ignorance. Every bikes different. Don't be a copy cat, do your own style and research. Also be nicer to people or your weenie will shrink.
Needle clip down 1 notch to bring the needle valve up 1 notch, main jets are really only for 3/4 to WOT. Needle valve is 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, pilot jet is idle to 1/4. Then their is needle taper and OD which should be good unless porting and or head work is done. Now each jet does fade into each other's range slightly. Don't get to carried away turning mixture screws. You should be able to find in carb lititurature, something like more than x turns on mix screw, move up 1 jet or clip size ect. Change only 1 thing at a time or you'll have no idea where your at.
Thank you so much air/fuel screw adjustment is difficult unless you have the correct tool or taking the carburetors on and off.
Dear man.On how mach turn out is your carbs now?stock carbs and open exhaust and air filter?tnx
So...unscrewing your pilot screw is adding more air to your pilot jet circuit, and you are saying that enriches the fuel? More air at the low rpm circuit should be leaning your mixture. What’s going on here?
Thats only ur fuel screw
I did mine in each carbulator 3 1/2 + 1/4 turn. I don't know how thats call. but 3 turns and half plus 1/4 or the middle betwen 3 1/2 and 4. What I did is that I adjust each one till the end and star unscrew them slowly counting the turns.
1/2 + 1/4 = 3/4
@@Thesachenshownah
How do you tell how many turns each screw is already set at?
I have a 99 r6 and I've adjusted mine every which way and I still get a jerky throttle and hesitation around 3-6k.
Its got a stubby exhaust and ivans tuning kit with screws set at 2.5 turns. 3.5 is way too much for mine, it's already over fueling and bogs if I give it too much gas, plugs get slightly sooted up.
I've cleaned the carbs several times and synced them.
Any advice?
After this video I figured out even more what my problem was. I know exactly what you mean by jerky in that RPM range. I have a couple questions, do you hear a popping sound out of the exhaust when you let off the throttle? If you do then you are actually running lean. I had to turn my screws to 5 out and now I have zero popping and smooth acceleration. Bogging when you give a lot of throttle also is a sign of lean fuel. Also if you are running a K&N filter that also causes issues, run stock the filter. But with your exhaust set up I would say 2.5 turns out wouldn't be enough but it also depends on what size jets you installed. Do you remember the number?
Kevin Wipp I have an 01 R6 with a slip on and new stock air filter with a stage 1 dynojet. mine are set 2-2.5 turns out and it runs awesome. (jets are 142, 140, 140, 142)
can't remember the jet size, it's whatever was in the ivan's tuning kit. standard air filter, no k&n.
I've got a 07 r6 exhaust modified to fit mine so very short but it runs better than it did with the old akro can I just took off. it doesn't pop with the new exhaust but does pop a little when maintaining speed.
it goes really well 6k+.
gas milage is shocking 75-100miles per tank, black around exhaust tip. That's what makes me say over fueling.
Black around exhaust and black on spark plugs is a sign of lean fueling. I only say this because I thought the exact same thing just 2 weeks ago until I researched it. I would say turn your screws out to 4 and see what happens. Rich doesn't hurt anything but lean is horrible for the engine.
+Kevin Wipp
Hi Kevin, I've just got back from a quick test ride after I screwed out the mixture screw to 3.5 turns from 2.5 turns. it's hard to tell if it's made any difference but id say it's slightly worse, 3-6k rpm twist the throttle it just bogg's (more throttle makes it worse) then if I ease off the revs will go up slow until 6k then it goes like hell regardless of throttle position.
When you pull out from a junction rolling in 1st you smoothly apply the throttle it lunges for a split second then it dies then it goes, smooths out at 3k. so if I pull out from a junction with it above 3k the bike seams smooth but you can't hit the throttle until 6k.
this bike has been terrible since I bought it, I bought it to streetfighter it and since I've owned/converted it its been like this which is 3years ago, I really don't want to give up on it but I'm loosing enjoyment in it.
can we chat further via email so I can show you some footage and also what I've done?
rich.dodd@live.co.uk
+Richard Dodd yeah man, im camping right now but when i get back i will email you. btw 3.5 was terrible for me too. 5 knocked out the bog for me.
Richard Dodd if
Are you supposed to have that fuel filter can? Mine doesn't have one
Yeah, you should run a filter for these. The tanks are known to rust. That filter will keep your carbs from getting plugged up. Only takes a dusting and the jets will be clogged.
Hey, I'm looking for clues to fix my '99 R6. Everything is fine until it's in gear and under acceleration. It idles and revs in neutral, but when I put it into gear and apply throttle I'm getting surges of acceleration and engine braking. When I pull the clutch in and begin to slow the bike drops rpm's and dies. Carbs have been rebuilt, stator, rectifier, cdi/ecu, wiring connecitons, all 4 headers heat up, and throttle position sensor all check out. I'm may check the coil packs over the weekend but my only other guess is maybe a piston ring/s are deteriorated. The bike has 28k. Any help would be appreciated.
Are you using the stock air filter?
Kevin Wipp Yes, it's stock
I was planning on checking the coils this weekend but I'm wondering if an engine rebuild for new piston rings is really worth it..
if your piston rings are bad then i would think you would get bad compression? have you done a compression test? its really easy to do if you rent the right tools.
been doing tests with a multimeter and the manual hoping it was just electrical. since it sounds so nice at idle and reving up in neutral i haven't taken the bike apart yet
I did 3 turns out and runs fine
stock carbs?
I have a YZF600r that I bought and it has a K&N intake, as well as an exhaust (not headers just a slip on exhaust around where the rear brake is.) Would these 2 mods cause a high idle if the carbs weren't rejetted?
My bike is having issues starting, like it gets too much air, but then once it is started the idle is very high
Davis Wiker to me it sounds like a vacuum leak. you can spray wd40 all around the carbs and if your idle acts different you know you have a vac leak. Also have you tried adjusting the idle knob and are you using the choke when you try to start the bike on a cold start?
Kevin Wipp I'll give that a shot, but with the air box off I have to cover the carbs to get the bike to start. With the air box on I have to cover the two pipes that come off of it into the front cowling.
my choke was stuck the plastic that the electronics under the air box are mounted to had slid down under it and were holding it. I fixed that, I've adjusted the idle screw and it hasn't helped, I feel the carbs may be out of sync.
Main jets 155 and 150 but from what? If you don't get enough gas at the mid range you need to raise the jet needle in the needle jet, not mess with the idle mixture.
Snurre86 Jets from Factory Pro. I used all 3 points, mix screw, jets, and needle clip adjustment to tune my carbs. I have since put a full M4 exhaust system and the bike is running amazing.
I don't really care what you ended up doing, I am concerned with what you tell people to do in the video. You need to say what main jets you took out of the carbs. Also the numbers makes no sense as all the manufacturers have different sizes to there numbers as there is no standard there. See www.rx7club.com/attachments/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/555804d1427163915-possible-mikuni-jet-kit-our-nikki-aefd709b-7cce-b81b.jpg
Snurre86 so angry. The video was to show you can adjust without tearing everything off the bike. If you took it like I'm telling everyone to set their bike up like mine, well, that's your own ignorance. Every bikes different. Don't be a copy cat, do your own style and research. Also be nicer to people or your weenie will shrink.
I don't know why you think I am angry. That is good advice as my goal is to have so small a "weenie" as possible.
I have a Yamaha r 6. 2002 it only has 18000 miles. I wanna sell it for 2000 dollars, you think is a good price.
Yellow Bird u still have the bike
Joshua Bishop no I fell in the freeway the bike slitted and caught on fire that was the end of that
Joshua Bishop straight to the junkyard nothing to salvage
Yellow Bird damm how u fall
Joshua Bishop I was careless and didn't check my chain and it broke you know what happens next
you shouldnt be much more than 3 turns out if you are you need different jets.
should've tried tuning first then thought about when jet you need
wat?