In the "bad old days" (the mid 60s), they marketed glass frost gadgets that simply sprayed R-12 (Freon) into the glass. It worked quite nicely and a can of R-12 cost about $1.00. Ozone hole considerations stopped that.
Anyone can pick it up, man. Just get some parts (or salvage some old electronics for parts), get a breadboard, a $30 multimeter, and a simple soldering station, and you'll already be most of the way there 😁👍 Message to all: this dude is good (nice and organized too), but anyone with a real interest is fabrication and machining, just grabs some stuff and make a thing! Then make it better! There are tons of resources on the internet you too can be an awesome fabricator! ...... That's what we used to call makers in the before times 😉
Add a thermal mass. I have a 4A TEC from a goodwill travel cooler/warmer that can easily get down to freezing and growing Frost in normal room ambient temperatures. It has a 1/4 inch block of aluminum on the cold side that attaches to a metal plate which was mounted inside the coolers tub. Even just putting an old stock P4 heatsink on the cool side plate it sucks the heat away no problem. Of course, I do have my evo 212 with dual fans on the hot side so heat dissipation is no problem. Maybe add a metal round between the cold side thermal Mass and the heat sink with the fan on it for the glass to sit on, might help better conduction and keep the heat away. Also you are going to want to add some kind of insulation in between the cold regions in the hot regions, plastic is not enough. If it starts recirculating heat from the hot side to the cold side back to the hot side that 10% efficiency turns into like 2%. I usually use either some old rags, or soft foam like what comes in Pelican style cases, though neoprene would probably make an aestheticly pleasing alternative. I used a few zip ties to hold the 212 on so bolts wouldn't also be a thermal leakage point, but I didn't slap together for aesthetics. I come from a haunted house/theme park animatronic fabrication background, so it didn't really matter if it was ugly because it either fit the aesthetic of the haunted house or it was someone else's job to make it look pretty 😂 One more thought, consider some sort of side draft Hot side heat sink either by adding another fan or swapping out for different cooler. As that fans blowing the hot air down and out it's going to rise back up and envelope the glass in some non-zero non-trivial amount. All of that being said, just stumbled upon your channel looking forward to perusing the catalog 😁👍
Wouldn't it be more effective to flip the whole assembly over (glass and cold side on the bottom, hot side on top)? That way the cold air sinks into the glass and stays there and the hot air rises up and away from the glass you're trying to chill.
Yes definitely would be more effective! But it just wouldn't be as nice of a countertop device if you had to put it on top of the glass rather than the way it is here. But yeah, the performance leaves a lot to be desired!
Hey Andrew! Great to see you making new videos! I couldn’t help but notice a sweet color touch screen on that Printer 😁 was that on the E3D2? Mine is still going strong and cranking out some crazy quality parts and trinkets but it’s been neglected in the upgrades for a while lol it could use some a shiny new color LCD for sure hah
Yep it's still my E3D2, I upgraded to a bigtreetech SKR Mini E3 and TFT24 touchscreen. It was an involuntary upgrade...I accidentally blew up my old controller by plugging in a stepper driver backwards. But an upgrade that was well worth it, trinamic drivers are much quieter and marlin is much more mature than smoothieware. Plus the touchscreen is great! Unfortunately not a drop in upgrade, the connectors on the board don't match the printer so I had to solder on new ones. But I do have working firmware for it now if it's an upgrade you want to attempt I can send that to you!
3DprintedLife oh nice! Yes please send parts list and any files that will help! I actually need to do some work on it any ways so I’ll do it all at the same time. I need to replace my power switch, it shorted out somehow and melted 😳, luckily I was sitting right beside it and heard the sparks ⚡️ and killed the power right away so damage beyond that. Also, have you found the need to replace your belts? Somehow I ended up with something out of alignment and got some belt-wear seems to printing well enough and well within tolerance but going to replace none the less 😁
Good question. For that you’d rely on the thermal conductivity of the glass to chill the entire cup rather than the air inside. Plus you’d have to deal with convection losses on both sides of the glass. I can’t say if it would be better or worse without running some simulations, but most likely the convection losses would overshadow any gains from directly transferring heat from glass to peltier
@@3DprintedLife with a nice enclosure for the electronic this would be a nice gimmick to put on top of a bar in a party room, if it performs a bit better. How long does it take for a glass to get frosty? And how much power does it draw?
@@HenHen5000 It doesn't have quite enough power for the glass to fully frost over but it's close. It drops the glass down to probably 40F in a minute assuming you pre-chill the heatsink a bit. I think with some more airflow in the glass and a liquid cooler for the hotside to reduce the temperature even more would get it there. I just have spent too much on this project already so I decided to stop here, but I may return to it! I'm too afraid to hook up my multimeter to measure the current flow since it's spec'd to draw more than my multimeter can handle, but I'm guessing it'll hit peak power draw of ~250W at startup then drop to around 150W as it reaches steady state.
With your last two projects not focusing specifically on 3D printing, will future videos be along the same lines? If so, are you considering changing the name of your channel to something else to reflect this new content? It was interesting to see this project too!
Will definitely still use 3D printing for all projects but yeah it'll be much less focused on it going forward. That is a good idea, I'll definitely consider a re-branding!
Every single project Ive seen of his involves him printing a component (even simple parts that most ppl give up and buy of the shelf) so it's on point imo
Hahah it's pla and I didn't microwave it, it was just a pretty bad joke. I tried being a little funny/sarcastic in these earlier project videos. With mixed results
@@3DprintedLife Just like one doesn't make racist jokes to the SJW community. You don't make stupid, non-sequitur jokes with the engineering community. Unsubscribed.
![The Smart, Crust Cutting Robot [V1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FJZa5K6Dk48/mqdefault.jpg)
![The Smart, Crust Cutting Robot [V1]](/img/tr.png)
In the "bad old days" (the mid 60s), they marketed glass frost gadgets that simply sprayed R-12 (Freon) into the glass. It worked quite nicely and a can of R-12 cost about $1.00. Ozone hole considerations stopped that.
😂😂 wtf
surely that was horrible to ingest too
Its impressive how many engineering disciplines you master and that result in some sick videos keep it up!!
Why thank you sir!
Anyone can pick it up, man. Just get some parts (or salvage some old electronics for parts), get a breadboard, a $30 multimeter, and a simple soldering station, and you'll already be most of the way there 😁👍
Message to all: this dude is good (nice and organized too), but anyone with a real interest is fabrication and machining, just grabs some stuff and make a thing! Then make it better! There are tons of resources on the internet you too can be an awesome fabricator!
...... That's what we used to call makers in the before times 😉
Great production quality! Really enjoyed the new vid.
Thanks! Been trying to step up my game, the next video will be even better quality than this one. Hope you've been doing well!
Add a thermal mass. I have a 4A TEC from a goodwill travel cooler/warmer that can easily get down to freezing and growing Frost in normal room ambient temperatures. It has a 1/4 inch block of aluminum on the cold side that attaches to a metal plate which was mounted inside the coolers tub. Even just putting an old stock P4 heatsink on the cool side plate it sucks the heat away no problem. Of course, I do have my evo 212 with dual fans on the hot side so heat dissipation is no problem. Maybe add a metal round between the cold side thermal Mass and the heat sink with the fan on it for the glass to sit on, might help better conduction and keep the heat away. Also you are going to want to add some kind of insulation in between the cold regions in the hot regions, plastic is not enough. If it starts recirculating heat from the hot side to the cold side back to the hot side that 10% efficiency turns into like 2%. I usually use either some old rags, or soft foam like what comes in Pelican style cases, though neoprene would probably make an aestheticly pleasing alternative. I used a few zip ties to hold the 212 on so bolts wouldn't also be a thermal leakage point, but I didn't slap together for aesthetics. I come from a haunted house/theme park animatronic fabrication background, so it didn't really matter if it was ugly because it either fit the aesthetic of the haunted house or it was someone else's job to make it look pretty 😂
One more thought, consider some sort of side draft Hot side heat sink either by adding another fan or swapping out for different cooler. As that fans blowing the hot air down and out it's going to rise back up and envelope the glass in some non-zero non-trivial amount.
All of that being said, just stumbled upon your channel looking forward to perusing the catalog 😁👍
Wouldn't it be more effective to flip the whole assembly over (glass and cold side on the bottom, hot side on top)?
That way the cold air sinks into the glass and stays there and the hot air rises up and away from the glass you're trying to chill.
Yes definitely would be more effective! But it just wouldn't be as nice of a countertop device if you had to put it on top of the glass rather than the way it is here. But yeah, the performance leaves a lot to be desired!
Hey Andrew! Great to see you making new videos! I couldn’t help but notice a sweet color touch screen on that Printer 😁 was that on the E3D2? Mine is still going strong and cranking out some crazy quality parts and trinkets but it’s been neglected in the upgrades for a while lol it could use some a shiny new color LCD for sure hah
Yep it's still my E3D2, I upgraded to a bigtreetech SKR Mini E3 and TFT24 touchscreen. It was an involuntary upgrade...I accidentally blew up my old controller by plugging in a stepper driver backwards. But an upgrade that was well worth it, trinamic drivers are much quieter and marlin is much more mature than smoothieware. Plus the touchscreen is great!
Unfortunately not a drop in upgrade, the connectors on the board don't match the printer so I had to solder on new ones. But I do have working firmware for it now if it's an upgrade you want to attempt I can send that to you!
3DprintedLife oh nice! Yes please send parts list and any files that will help! I actually need to do some work on it any ways so I’ll do it all at the same time. I need to replace my power switch, it shorted out somehow and melted 😳, luckily I was sitting right beside it and heard the sparks ⚡️ and killed the power right away so damage beyond that. Also, have you found the need to replace your belts? Somehow I ended up with something out of alignment and got some belt-wear seems to printing well enough and well within tolerance but going to replace none the less 😁
@@rtowner75 sent! And nope never replaced belts, though I've considered getting genuine gates belts as an upgrade.
This is great. Good call staying away from compressors for cooling, they can explode with lethal shrapnel
Yeah, not good!
two videos in one month!!? AAAAHHHHHHHHHHH
And this is only the beginning...
Dudude👾
Dat is so Rad.
Cool video. What would happen if you put the bottom of the glass directly on the cold side of the Peltier?
Good question. For that you’d rely on the thermal conductivity of the glass to chill the entire cup rather than the air inside. Plus you’d have to deal with convection losses on both sides of the glass. I can’t say if it would be better or worse without running some simulations, but most likely the convection losses would overshadow any gains from directly transferring heat from glass to peltier
Sorry, are you using Autodesk Inventor to CAD?? w… Why??
Is this a backup channel how do you only have 2.4k views?
lol nah, just was waiting for the algorithm to decide my videos are good. But it's been picking up lately which is probably how you found this!
Some kind of sensor that detects the glass and then turns the machine on would be a nice addition.
Great idea! If I'm able to improve the performance just a bit more I may consider adding some features like that.
@@3DprintedLife with a nice enclosure for the electronic this would be a nice gimmick to put on top of a bar in a party room, if it performs a bit better.
How long does it take for a glass to get frosty? And how much power does it draw?
@@HenHen5000 It doesn't have quite enough power for the glass to fully frost over but it's close. It drops the glass down to probably 40F in a minute assuming you pre-chill the heatsink a bit. I think with some more airflow in the glass and a liquid cooler for the hotside to reduce the temperature even more would get it there. I just have spent too much on this project already so I decided to stop here, but I may return to it!
I'm too afraid to hook up my multimeter to measure the current flow since it's spec'd to draw more than my multimeter can handle, but I'm guessing it'll hit peak power draw of ~250W at startup then drop to around 150W as it reaches steady state.
Show us how to build an AC Unit
With your last two projects not focusing specifically on 3D printing, will future videos be along the same lines? If so, are you considering changing the name of your channel to something else to reflect this new content? It was interesting to see this project too!
Will definitely still use 3D printing for all projects but yeah it'll be much less focused on it going forward. That is a good idea, I'll definitely consider a re-branding!
Every single project Ive seen of his involves him printing a component (even simple parts that most ppl give up and buy of the shelf) so it's on point imo
An insulated tube with a lid might achieve what you're aiming for
You're definitely right! But that isn't nearly as sleek
What filament did you use for the stand that you pulled out of the microwave and why did you microwave it?
Hahah it's pla and I didn't microwave it, it was just a pretty bad joke. I tried being a little funny/sarcastic in these earlier project videos. With mixed results
@@3DprintedLife , the joke was good. Where can I get this microwave oven (or maybe it is a nanowave device)?
@@3DprintedLife Just like one doesn't make racist jokes to the SJW community. You don't make stupid, non-sequitur jokes with the engineering community. Unsubscribed.
It work better with the heat going up and the cold going down