This is how convoluted and crazy the golf swing really is! I have been chasing the elusive 'compression of the ball' for a good 40+ years. Through thousands of $$, lessons, teachers, reading books/articles...Blah, Blah. Today I stumble onto this 3+ minute tutorial on 'Wrist Action', took it to the range, and I was almost in tears. Dudes there probably thought I was having a breakdown. I was matching distance club for club with the Flatbellies there, HA!, HA! _THIS_ was the elusive secret that was never taught to me. Thanks, mate! Now if I could ONLY get those lost 40 yrs.+ back! LOL!! 👍👏
I wish I saw this video years ago! I actually started doing this last week. I was having big issues with over the top and not releasing...... just a big mess, so I videoed myself and I saw that at the top of the swing, to start my swing, my wrist was too cupped and I immediately start over the top with my wrist moving over the top to start the downswing. This was before I watched this video, so I started flexing my wrist (bowing) my wrists to start the down swing and now I'm flushing it with a draw. From a weak fade to a draw. So today, another range session and more good results, so I looked up on UA-cam, what I started doing and ran across your video. It's amazing how just 1 correct move on the downswing, can change so much!
Just what I was looking for. I suspected the uncocking phase began somewhere around P5. Hackmotion data and GEARS also seems to confirm this. Thanks, Greg Rose. Great teacher. Simple and factual information. Always appreciated. Loved Greg's free throw putting tip on the Chasing Scratch Podcast recently as well.
Ive been practicing this to stop myself leaving the clubface open at impact on really hard drives or when im trying to push it a bit . It really doesnt take any more than consciously putting your lead wrist back down through impact , you can overdo it or underdo it as you need to create different outcomes . Trying to work this through different positions is madness , just ‘know’ where you want your wrists and put them there . It is good advice here and does work but its the cake your after not the recipe .
My right wrist was broken 40 years ago and never properly healed. I have 15-20 degrees of upward bend and have been to many PTs with little result change, Do you have any suggestions on how I should swing or compensate for this lack of mobility? Thank you for any help.
The basic problem is that you have to work within you limits of power, flexibility and spatial and timing control to find the optimal swing for you. Not for the top players on Tour. That is a problem for competing club manufacturers and Tour players. I have two Titleist and two Taylormade drivers. 9.5 and 10.5 on identical X shafts. They all play different. They are all very finicky to get great results with them, all in different ways. And my ckubhead speed is 90-95mph without release. I can get anout 100mph with this release technique. It works much better to use the lead thumb as the hinge point, not the lead wrist. But to get the best results you still need a great strike. That is by far the biggest factor. If you dont know how yo get a great strike reliably holding steady lag through impact, then releasing through impact is only going to turn your shots into random crap. Youl'll be spraying the ball all over the course. Which admittedly is fine for a sketchy player on an easy-enough course with enough room to play in and enough balls to play with ...maybe Slope 130 tees at most...but what will really turn you into a good player is good, consistent ball control, not random max distance with virtually no ball control. I might hit a release shot once per side and only on drives into open fairways. Never with irons. Just too many things can go wrong with irons. Rather just hit s 3-wood if it matters that much. My favorite 3-wood by far is the Titleist 917. Once I fugured-out how to hit it reliably I stopped hitting 3-irons. I carry an old set of Titleist irons and a 3 and a 2 that I never use anymore. I hit about 190-210 yds with the 4-iron and about 210-240 with the three- wood, 225-275 with my drivers. I'm not going to scare anyone with those distances but they are probably going in play. Good luck with that "top Tour-pro" swing. Maybe one day you will hit a 285-yard 4-iron to a tight green with it like Tiger. Seriously he did that in a tournament. It is a fairly humiliating thing to do on s golf-course, to wait extra time to clear a shot and then not even come close to hitting it. If you have a decent game then you probably already know this technique and know when and when not to use it. If you do not have a decent game, this is not the next step for you.
Dude it simply makes no sense that youre going to cast the club forward just because you have restricted flex at the top of the backswing. That is ludicrous. Casting cones from an incorrect flex DIRECTION. Take the club to the to of the backseing. Now if you hold the club parallel to your forearms that restriction is not an issue at all. Put the club at the top of your backseinh. The clubhead can rotate around the shaft and the shaft can swing around your torso without changing your wrist angle at all along the angle you mention. Just tilt the shaft with your arms. Casting is when you move the club from across your forearms to in line with your forearms (by changing wrist extension) or by bending and straightening your elbows or shoulder joints. Swing your elbows forward and extend your arms and wrists forward, taking the club horizontal. That is a full cast. Now retract the club to vertical using only your wrists. That is a retraction not a cast. Move the club to hirizontal using your elbows. That is a further retraction. Rotate your trailing upper arm to the trail side using your trailing shoulder joint, bringing the clubhead behind your head. That is the top of your backwing. What you are talking about with your 6iron is to move the club laterally back from the top of the backseing. That is ALSO a retraction. A cast from the top of the backseing is to point the clubhead back up the shotline by extending both your forearms and your wrists....back up the shotline. The wrist angle that you are talking about is to point the club backwards, away from the shotline, behinf you. If you do a full cast fro the top of the backseing, that wrist motion is not involved. You just extend your wrists and arms either to the sude or continue on to the front. The wrist angke that you are talking about only affects lag in the downswing. Cast goes 90 degres away from lag. Plus lag requres a wrist or forearm rotation. That rotation can be done when the trail forearm is rotated in the downswing. It is unnecessary at the top of the backsweing. Now here you have a true battle between holding lag and releasing lag through impact. You also can extend or retract the wrists...ir strengten or weaken the grip...to steepen or shallow the swing plane. But. There is no need to or restriction on casting the club as you mention. Only on the maximum amount of lag and the resulting club-flip through impact. What you can do which I think that Rory does is hold the clubface open in the downswing and close it through impact. That entirely eliminates the specific issue with wrist angle limitation that you speak of. ..at least in the trail wrist. The other option is to simply hold lag through impact. That evenly distributes the lag in both wrists. Releasing the club transfers lag from the trail wrist to the lead wrist. But there is no cast to the front unless you purposefully cast to the front from the top of the downswing. If you choose to cast, cast to the side. It absolutely is not necessary to cast. You really should generate some lag though.
![[PT. 1] YOU'VE GOT TO GET YOUR WRISTS ACTIVE IN THE SWING | Paddy's Golf Tip #8 | Padraig Harrington](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/WxtyPwYs5IE/mqdefault.jpg)
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Best unhinging explanation I've found yet - and it was brief. Great!
This is how convoluted and crazy the golf swing really is! I have been chasing the elusive 'compression of the ball' for a good 40+ years. Through thousands of $$, lessons, teachers, reading books/articles...Blah, Blah. Today I stumble onto this 3+ minute tutorial on 'Wrist Action', took it to the range, and I was almost in tears. Dudes there probably thought I was having a breakdown. I was matching distance club for club with the Flatbellies there, HA!, HA! _THIS_ was the elusive secret that was never taught to me. Thanks, mate! Now if I could ONLY get those lost 40 yrs.+ back! LOL!! 👍👏
Oh I feel your pain @paso193. I feel your pain.
Ba Bam there it is! ⛳
Yep. Been doing this wrong for 65 years.
I hope one day when I watch a video and say “I figured it out” it will actually come true like this lmao
Haha I'm with you!
I wish I saw this video years ago! I actually started doing this last week. I was having big issues with over the top and not releasing...... just a big mess, so I videoed myself and I saw that at the top of the swing, to start my swing, my wrist was too cupped and I immediately start over the top with my wrist moving over the top to start the downswing.
This was before I watched this video, so I started flexing my wrist (bowing) my wrists to start the down swing and now I'm flushing it with a draw. From a weak fade to a draw.
So today, another range session and more good results, so I looked up on UA-cam, what I started doing and ran across your video.
It's amazing how just 1 correct move on the downswing, can change so much!
Your videos and ability to break down the different components continue to make me a better golfer. The better I play the more I enjoy it! Thanks
Great explanation in under 4min. No fluff, I like it 👍
Thanks for such a clear explanation.
Just what I was looking for. I suspected the uncocking phase began somewhere around P5. Hackmotion data and GEARS also seems to confirm this. Thanks, Greg Rose. Great teacher. Simple and factual information. Always appreciated. Loved Greg's free throw putting tip on the Chasing Scratch Podcast recently as well.
Thanks Greg I wish I knew this forty years ago!🙏🙏🙏
thank you sir the best technique that I needed to change my game..
Dang, I gootta go and get a titlelist 6 iron asap! Thanks
Why can't other pros explain it as simple as you well explained I'm sure it'd fact they don't want you to progress well explained
Ive been practicing this to stop myself leaving the clubface open at impact on really hard drives or when im trying to push it a bit . It really doesnt take any more than consciously putting your lead wrist back down through impact , you can overdo it or underdo it as you need to create different outcomes .
Trying to work this through different positions is madness , just ‘know’ where you want your wrists and put them there .
It is good advice here and does work but its the cake your after not the recipe .
Excellent!
So, what are good exercises to improve the ability of your trail wrist to extend?
My right wrist was broken 40 years ago and never properly healed. I have 15-20 degrees of upward bend and have been to many PTs with little result change, Do you have any suggestions on how I should swing or compensate for this lack of mobility? Thank you for any help.
So if we are permanently restricted how should we adjust? (Besides quitting golf)?
Thank you goat.
Good video but would have been better with one or two exercises to improve risk mobility!
Maybe just repeat what he did and then work it into your practice swings and then hit a shot on the range?
❤❤❤
The basic problem is that you have to work within you limits of power, flexibility and spatial and timing control to find the optimal swing for you. Not for the top players on Tour. That is a problem for competing club manufacturers and Tour players.
I have two Titleist and two Taylormade drivers. 9.5 and 10.5 on identical X shafts. They all play different. They are all very finicky to get great results with them, all in different ways. And my ckubhead speed is 90-95mph without release. I can get anout 100mph with this release technique. It works much better to use the lead thumb as the hinge point, not the lead wrist. But to get the best results you still need a great strike. That is by far the biggest factor.
If you dont know how yo get a great strike reliably holding steady lag through impact, then releasing through impact is only going to turn your shots into random crap. Youl'll be spraying the ball all over the course.
Which admittedly is fine for a sketchy player on an easy-enough course with enough room to play in and enough balls to play with ...maybe Slope 130 tees at most...but what will really turn you into a good player is good, consistent ball control, not random max distance with virtually no ball control. I might hit a release shot once per side and only on drives into open fairways. Never with irons. Just too many things can go wrong with irons. Rather just hit s 3-wood if it matters that much.
My favorite 3-wood by far is the Titleist 917. Once I fugured-out how to hit it reliably I stopped hitting 3-irons. I carry an old set of Titleist irons and a 3 and a 2 that I never use anymore. I hit about 190-210 yds with the 4-iron and about 210-240 with the three- wood, 225-275 with my drivers. I'm not going to scare anyone with those distances but they are probably going in play.
Good luck with that "top Tour-pro" swing. Maybe one day you will hit a 285-yard 4-iron to a tight green with it like Tiger. Seriously he did that in a tournament. It is a fairly humiliating thing to do on s golf-course, to wait extra time to clear a shot and then not even come close to hitting it. If you have a decent game then you probably already know this technique and know when and when not to use it. If you do not have a decent game, this is not the next step for you.
What does any of what you just said, have to do with this video?
Dude it simply makes no sense that youre going to cast the club forward just because you have restricted flex at the top of the backswing. That is ludicrous.
Casting cones from an incorrect flex DIRECTION. Take the club to the to of the backseing. Now if you hold the club parallel to your forearms that restriction is not an issue at all. Put the club at the top of your backseinh. The clubhead can rotate around the shaft and the shaft can swing around your torso without changing your wrist angle at all along the angle you mention. Just tilt the shaft with your arms. Casting is when you move the club from across your forearms to in line with your forearms (by changing wrist extension) or by bending and straightening your elbows or shoulder joints. Swing your elbows forward and extend your arms and wrists forward, taking the club horizontal. That is a full cast. Now retract the club to vertical using only your wrists. That is a retraction not a cast. Move the club to hirizontal using your elbows. That is a further retraction. Rotate your trailing upper arm to the trail side using your trailing shoulder joint, bringing the clubhead behind your head. That is the top of your backwing. What you are talking about with your 6iron is to move the club laterally back from the top of the backseing.
That is ALSO a retraction. A cast from the top of the backseing is to point the clubhead back up the shotline by extending both your forearms and your wrists....back up the shotline.
The wrist angle that you are talking about is to point the club backwards, away from the shotline, behinf you. If you do a full cast fro the top of the backseing, that wrist motion is not involved. You just extend your wrists and arms either to the sude or continue on to the front. The wrist angke that you are talking about only affects lag in the downswing.
Cast goes 90 degres away from lag. Plus lag requres a wrist or forearm rotation. That rotation can be done when the trail forearm is rotated in the downswing. It is unnecessary at the top of the backsweing. Now here you have a true battle between holding lag and releasing lag through impact. You also can extend or retract the wrists...ir strengten or weaken the grip...to steepen or shallow the swing plane.
But. There is no need to or restriction on casting the club as you mention. Only on the maximum amount of lag and the resulting club-flip through impact. What you can do which I think that Rory does is hold the clubface open in the downswing and close it through impact. That entirely eliminates the specific issue with wrist angle limitation that you speak of. ..at least in the trail wrist.
The other option is to simply hold lag through impact. That evenly distributes the lag in both wrists. Releasing the club transfers lag from the trail wrist to the lead wrist.
But there is no cast to the front unless you purposefully cast to the front from the top of the downswing. If you choose to cast, cast to the side. It absolutely is not necessary to cast. You really should generate some lag though.