Thanks for this video which was very helpful in dealing with the Easton EC90SL cranks and bottom bracket on my Cube CX bike. If I understand correctly, the Easton cranks are basically Race Face components, so putting their product name in here might direct others who are searching for help to this great video.
I've found that cotton swabs (q-tips) are pretty good for getting down in the splines on the crank with the chainring. I keep a soda bottle cap filled about halfway with IPA and then dip the swab into the cap to get it wet and then go to town cleaning down inside those splines where it's hard to reach. It takes quite a few of them but it gets the job done 🙂
You are absolutely, positively, unquestionably, unequivocally, indubitably, no ifs ands or buts about it, RIGHT! 😁 I've used Q-tips multiple times in the past, when the OCD kicks in, I can go through a surprising amount of them before I'm done. Those tube brushes I bought a couple of years ago also work really well. They are pretty stiff considering their size and do a great job and scrubbing off debris from the threads of the crank bolts. Thanks for the great tip, which I really should have mentioned in the video 👍
Just reassembled mine after having to replace the Raceface BB. It was not old but the previous owner's main hobby was pressure washing it seems. As you say these cranks are easy to work on once you get it loosened as it can take some force initially. Like the way that you do not plaster the whole assembly in grease...most mechanics overapply the stuff and it sits there doing nothing and becomes a magnet for dirt/dust.
Glad to hear you found the video helpful. Totally agree with you on to much grease. Many people use WAY to much grease. Last year I serviced a bike and literally couldn't see the lower two cogs on the cassette, they were completely covered in greased. As you basically mentioned, if you can see the grease it provides zero value.
Same here. Would someone tell this slacker to get his butt in gear already! 😁 It's a comin! If all goes well I should be rebuilding it next week. Work has been super busy lately and is always the priority.
The stock preloader that comes with RaceFace cranks is not great and should be replaced with a beefier alternative. Not only does that pinch bolt strip almost instantly, the plastic material is cheap and can break. I've tried both the Muc Off and Cane Creek aluminum preloaders and definitely prefer (and would recommend) the Cane Creek preloader. If you have RaceFace cranks, do yourself a favor and pick one up.
The old raceface preloader just plain sucked, and the new one is dumb. The new one might have solved the issue with stripping screws, but it's a fricken magnet for dirt and mud. The cane creek is awesome. I'd say it's pricey for what it is, but what isn't pricey these days. 🙄 I never knew muc off made one as well. Thanks for the heads-up, I'll look into it 👍
The Cane Creek preload ring is excellent. Well worth the money. Going strong after 4+ years and several crank services a year. Always made sure I had at least two Race Face spares on hand before. switching.
Great stuff! Pretty disappointing that the BB shell is that far out of spec on a Yeti. I'm betting the owner goes through BBs rapidly and he's staring a brand new crank in the face with the massive amount of scoring on that spindle. Lastly, a big HELL YES to a normal amount of grease! So many build channels use enough grease on just the rear axle to cover the entire bike build. Great to see your sub count going up as you deserve it.
Thank you so much for the support. By far the most scoring I've seen on a spindle. At least Raceface sells just the spindle, which helps with replacement costs. I'm still not sure if it's a frame bb shell issue, if the bb wasn't pressed in right, or even if the bearings weren't installed in the bb shells correctly. Work just got stupid busy, and I haven't replaced the BB yet. While waiting for the BB I started on the bike's fork. I'll get to it soon. You are 100% dead on with the grease! There is a misunderstanding that adding lots of grease to the outside of a bearing will make it work better. It's the complete opposite. I plan on going into this in a headset video I'm working on. This is another area of a bike where some people apply way more grease than is needed.
Thanks for a really informative video and for teaching some grammar (unloosening..) :) I’m about to complete a HT build with Next SL G5 cranks. How’s your experience with them? I’ve read stories about the carbon coming loose from the pedal eyelet & at the spindle but perhaps that was previous generations.
"and for teaching some grammar" - The more I edit these videos, the more convinced I get that I have a fried circuit somewhere in my head! 😁 I obviously can't speak to failure rate numbers for the NEXT cranks, but I can say this. Where I live, the NEXT cranks are SUPER popular, and have been since they launched (Raceface has made a KILLING off them around here) I've come across every generation, multiple times, and don't know anyone who's ever had an issue with them, outside of bearings (swap the bearings to NTN bearings, you won't regret it). BUT (and this is a big but), the trails around here are more XC type trails. We don't have major obstacles, such as those out west, that would really stress a crank. We basically spin, turn, and go up and down, on relatively flat ground with smaller rocks and roots. If you're riding on trails that the cranks were designed for, like the ones here in South MI, then my guess is that the chances of you having an issue with them will be extremely slim. If you're riding very aggressive trails or bike parks, then you might want to consider something more targeted for that type of riding. Now, there's always a chance that you can end up with a lemon, but I don't think that represents the majority of the NEXT G5 sales. 😉
@@zoubtube thanks for sharing your experience with these cranks I’ll mainly use the HT build for XC duty here in Norway so the cranks seem like a match. I’ll look into NTN bearings, thanks for the tip! I have an XC fully also but prefer Shimano aluminum when the going gets tough. I’ll go ahead and watch your other videos :)
"Unloosen" is actually a word. It means loosen. It's similar to how the words flammable and inflammable look like opposites but are identical in meaning.
If you strip that little screw head, you can get a better replacement at your local hobby shop (that sells RC cars). I bought a box of 10 3x10mm hex crews from APS racing (APS30310S) for a few buck. The heads are larger/deeper for better hex key engagement and they are stainless steel so they won't rust.
Thanks for sharing this myman. what sucks is there used to be a hobby shop about a mile from me for decades, but he closed shop two years ago. If by chance you happen to come across a link online feel free to share it so I can put it in the description section for people 👍
Yup! both crank arms need to be removed when replacing the spindle. If your non drive side is stock, then chance are your going to need a 16mm allen and a puller cap with a 8mm allen in order to remove the spindle. The Spindle kit will most likely come with these items. let me know if you have other questions.
Oh Zoub I removed my Shimano 24 mm bottom bracket and installed a race face PF 92 to accommodate my new Next SL crankset as an upgrade. Everything went smooth. I used primer and retaining compound as instructed in other videos. The bearings seem to spin in the frame but I thought they were stiff. After installing the crankset it’s not spinning freely. I have the correct spacers and pre load. It is a BMC Fourstroke 01. 2022. It took a couple hits with my palm to get the spindle in. I also noticed the spindle is turning black when I removed it. It is very stiff. I can’t spin it around without the chain. Will it loosen up?
My apologies for the late response. I'm confident that the issue is alignment. The question is, is the misalignment based on the bearing in the cups, the cups installed in the BB shell, or the bb shell holes. IMO, 30mm spindles are less forgiving than the 24mm when it comes to alignment issues. What might be very slight with a 24mm can be significant when replacing it with a 30mm. I learned this with multiple Trek frames a long time ago. Their BB shell tolerances used to really suck, but at least they were VERY solid when it came to warranty and support on the issue Take it for a few rides first. See if it settles in and starts spinning more freely. If it doesn't, remove the BB, clean everything. Check to see if the bearings are sitting evenly in the cups. Reinstall. If this doesn't solve the issue, then I'd be willing to bet it's the frame that needs to be reamed/faced. Let me know how it goes.
@@zoubtube So, it turned out to be that the cup sleeve got a teeny crimp at one end! Makews total sense. Unfortunately I had to take it to my LBS.. We just decided to throw out the sleeve.. It's been great ever since. I asked anothr crucial question of you today. if you could check my comment on your XT Piston video...Thanks!!
The BB type is dependant on which BB shell you have in . frame Ex: Threaded, pressfit, etc. After you figure this out, then you need a 30mm bearing version of the bb that will the shell. hopefully this helps
I'm surprised such a critical component would made of plastic and an easily stripped screw. Cane Creek makes an all aluminum preload adjuster that is compatible with Race Face and looks far more substantial.
YUP! You are 100% correct. It's a bad design! What I don't get is that the new version of the preload ring technically fixes the issue with the bolt, but in an attempt to make it lighter, they designed it with large gaps all around it, which collects mud and dirt like a magnet. That's the last thing you want around a bb spindle spacer.
Good question. There are lots of variables to consider, bottom bracket shell type and width, bottom bracket model, crank type and spindle width, etc. simply put, the world of BB's is a circus! What frame, bottom bracket and crank do you have?
I've a raceface Ride crank that doesn't have a preload adjuster as part of the design. .. I just ordered some aluminum 24mm spacers (0.1, 0.2, 0.3) in an attempt to minimize the side to side play that a preload adjuster does so easily.....now I know how Raceface reduced costs on this crankset model!!! arrggghh
I get the idea of cost savings, and agree with it,, but it has to make sense. this is one area where it doesn't. but what do I know! 😉At least you solved it 👍
Raceface ended up giving me a 40% discount on a new set of cranks, as I basically wore out the bearing surfaces on the spindle and was getting vertical play (felt really weird when pedalling) - the thin spacers did indeed work (used a 0.2mm) to take up the lateral play however. Seems all the 24mm spindle RF cranks don't use preload rings - only the 30mm spindle cranks use the preload rings. Ended up going with their top of the range Aeffect-R 7000 series alum cranks (the Ride and standard Affect are 6000 series), as my BB was quite new and in great shape. I feel like I'm a reluctant expert in RF cranks now! Cheer!s @@zoubtube
Your videos are second to none. Thank you.
Thanks for the generous compliment and for the support. more videos to come 👍
Thanks for this video which was very helpful in dealing with the Easton EC90SL cranks and bottom bracket on my Cube CX bike. If I understand correctly, the Easton cranks are basically Race Face components, so putting their product name in here might direct others who are searching for help to this great video.
I've found that cotton swabs (q-tips) are pretty good for getting down in the splines on the crank with the chainring. I keep a soda bottle cap filled about halfway with IPA and then dip the swab into the cap to get it wet and then go to town cleaning down inside those splines where it's hard to reach. It takes quite a few of them but it gets the job done 🙂
You are absolutely, positively, unquestionably, unequivocally, indubitably, no ifs ands or buts about it, RIGHT! 😁 I've used Q-tips multiple times in the past, when the OCD kicks in, I can go through a surprising amount of them before I'm done. Those tube brushes I bought a couple of years ago also work really well. They are pretty stiff considering their size and do a great job and scrubbing off debris from the threads of the crank bolts.
Thanks for the great tip, which I really should have mentioned in the video 👍
Just reassembled mine after having to replace the Raceface BB. It was not old but the previous owner's main hobby was pressure washing it seems. As you say these cranks are easy to work on once you get it loosened as it can take some force initially. Like the way that you do not plaster the whole assembly in grease...most mechanics overapply the stuff and it sits there doing nothing and becomes a magnet for dirt/dust.
Glad to hear you found the video helpful. Totally agree with you on to much grease. Many people use WAY to much grease. Last year I serviced a bike and literally couldn't see the lower two cogs on the cassette, they were completely covered in greased. As you basically mentioned, if you can see the grease it provides zero value.
I’m waiting for that shock service ❤
Same here. Would someone tell this slacker to get his butt in gear already! 😁
It's a comin! If all goes well I should be rebuilding it next week. Work has been super busy lately and is always the priority.
here you go myman! ua-cam.com/video/UguFJKJVdss/v-deo.html
Thank you very much.. just removed regressed and replaced my NextSL on my Norco Fat Bike.. appreciate the video.
Glad to hear the video was helpful for you. If there are any questions, let me know
The stock preloader that comes with RaceFace cranks is not great and should be replaced with a beefier alternative. Not only does that pinch bolt strip almost instantly, the plastic material is cheap and can break. I've tried both the Muc Off and Cane Creek aluminum preloaders and definitely prefer (and would recommend) the Cane Creek preloader. If you have RaceFace cranks, do yourself a favor and pick one up.
The old raceface preloader just plain sucked, and the new one is dumb. The new one might have solved the issue with stripping screws, but it's a fricken magnet for dirt and mud. The cane creek is awesome. I'd say it's pricey for what it is, but what isn't pricey these days. 🙄 I never knew muc off made one as well. Thanks for the heads-up, I'll look into it 👍
The Cane Creek preload ring is excellent. Well worth the money. Going strong after 4+ years and several crank services a year. Always made sure I had at least two Race Face spares on hand before. switching.
@@davide.6204 Same (I’m on year 6 with mine.) I’ve also got a crankset with the Muc-Off preloader but I think I prefer the Cane Creek.
So are you selling those with such a strange identifyer ?
Great stuff! Pretty disappointing that the BB shell is that far out of spec on a Yeti. I'm betting the owner goes through BBs rapidly and he's staring a brand new crank in the face with the massive amount of scoring on that spindle. Lastly, a big HELL YES to a normal amount of grease! So many build channels use enough grease on just the rear axle to cover the entire bike build. Great to see your sub count going up as you deserve it.
Thank you so much for the support. By far the most scoring I've seen on a spindle. At least Raceface sells just the spindle, which helps with replacement costs. I'm still not sure if it's a frame bb shell issue, if the bb wasn't pressed in right, or even if the bearings weren't installed in the bb shells correctly. Work just got stupid busy, and I haven't replaced the BB yet. While waiting for the BB I started on the bike's fork. I'll get to it soon.
You are 100% dead on with the grease! There is a misunderstanding that adding lots of grease to the outside of a bearing will make it work better. It's the complete opposite. I plan on going into this in a headset video I'm working on. This is another area of a bike where some people apply way more grease than is needed.
Thanks for a really informative video and for teaching some grammar (unloosening..) :) I’m about to complete a HT build with Next SL G5 cranks. How’s your experience with them? I’ve read stories about the carbon coming loose from the pedal eyelet & at the spindle but perhaps that was previous generations.
"and for teaching some grammar" - The more I edit these videos, the more convinced I get that I have a fried circuit somewhere in my head! 😁
I obviously can't speak to failure rate numbers for the NEXT cranks, but I can say this. Where I live, the NEXT cranks are SUPER popular, and have been since they launched (Raceface has made a KILLING off them around here)
I've come across every generation, multiple times, and don't know anyone who's ever had an issue with them, outside of bearings (swap the bearings to NTN bearings, you won't regret it). BUT (and this is a big but), the trails around here are more XC type trails. We don't have major obstacles, such as those out west, that would really stress a crank. We basically spin, turn, and go up and down, on relatively flat ground with smaller rocks and roots.
If you're riding on trails that the cranks were designed for, like the ones here in South MI, then my guess is that the chances of you having an issue with them will be extremely slim. If you're riding very aggressive trails or bike parks, then you might want to consider something more targeted for that type of riding.
Now, there's always a chance that you can end up with a lemon, but I don't think that represents the majority of the NEXT G5 sales. 😉
@@zoubtube thanks for sharing your experience with these cranks I’ll mainly use the HT build for XC duty here in Norway so the cranks seem like a match. I’ll look into NTN bearings, thanks for the tip! I have an XC fully also but prefer Shimano aluminum when the going gets tough. I’ll go ahead and watch your other videos :)
@@bjornart Anytime myman! I'm sure they will be just fine and that you will enjoy them. If you have any other questions just let me know
"Unloosen" is actually a word. It means loosen. It's similar to how the words flammable and inflammable look like opposites but are identical in meaning.
Brilliant!
Thank you sir. Hopefully you don't ever have to go through this 😉
If you strip that little screw head, you can get a better replacement at your local hobby shop (that sells RC cars). I bought a box of 10 3x10mm hex crews from APS racing (APS30310S) for a few buck. The heads are larger/deeper for better hex key engagement and they are stainless steel so they won't rust.
Thanks for sharing this myman. what sucks is there used to be a hobby shop about a mile from me for decades, but he closed shop two years ago. If by chance you happen to come across a link online feel free to share it so I can put it in the description section for people 👍
Hello,
I have to remove the spindle in order to put a larger one. How do you pull out the spindle from the non drive crank arm ?
Yup! both crank arms need to be removed when replacing the spindle. If your non drive side is stock, then chance are your going to need a 16mm allen and a puller cap with a 8mm allen in order to remove the spindle. The Spindle kit will most likely come with these items. let me know if you have other questions.
Oh Zoub I removed my Shimano 24 mm bottom bracket and installed a race face PF 92 to accommodate my new Next SL crankset as an upgrade. Everything went smooth. I used primer and retaining compound as instructed in other videos. The bearings seem to spin in the frame but I thought they were stiff. After installing the crankset it’s not spinning freely. I have the correct spacers and pre load. It is a BMC Fourstroke 01. 2022. It took a couple hits with my palm to get the spindle in. I also noticed the spindle is turning black when I removed it. It is very stiff. I can’t spin it around without the chain. Will it loosen up?
My apologies for the late response. I'm confident that the issue is alignment. The question is, is the misalignment based on the bearing in the cups, the cups installed in the BB shell, or the bb shell holes.
IMO, 30mm spindles are less forgiving than the 24mm when it comes to alignment issues. What might be very slight with a 24mm can be significant when replacing it with a 30mm. I learned this with multiple Trek frames a long time ago. Their BB shell tolerances used to really suck, but at least they were VERY solid when it came to warranty and support on the issue
Take it for a few rides first. See if it settles in and starts spinning more freely. If it doesn't, remove the BB, clean everything. Check to see if the bearings are sitting evenly in the cups. Reinstall. If this doesn't solve the issue, then I'd be willing to bet it's the frame that needs to be reamed/faced.
Let me know how it goes.
@@zoubtube So, it turned out to be that the cup sleeve got a teeny crimp at one end! Makews total sense. Unfortunately I had to take it to my LBS.. We just decided to throw out the sleeve.. It's been great ever since. I asked anothr crucial question of you today. if you could check my comment on your XT Piston video...Thanks!!
I’m trying to find out which BB I should buy for this specific crankset
The BB type is dependant on which BB shell you have in . frame Ex: Threaded, pressfit, etc. After you figure this out, then you need a 30mm bearing version of the bb that will the shell. hopefully this helps
I'm surprised such a critical component would made of plastic and an easily stripped screw. Cane Creek makes an all aluminum preload adjuster that is compatible with Race Face and looks far more substantial.
YUP! You are 100% correct. It's a bad design! What I don't get is that the new version of the preload ring technically fixes the issue with the bolt, but in an attempt to make it lighter, they designed it with large gaps all around it, which collects mud and dirt like a magnet. That's the last thing you want around a bb spindle spacer.
How to judge the number of spacers to mount ?
Good question. There are lots of variables to consider, bottom bracket shell type and width, bottom bracket model, crank type and spindle width, etc. simply put, the world of BB's is a circus! What frame, bottom bracket and crank do you have?
I've a raceface Ride crank that doesn't have a preload adjuster as part of the design. .. I just ordered some aluminum 24mm spacers (0.1, 0.2, 0.3) in an attempt to minimize the side to side play that a preload adjuster does so easily.....now I know how Raceface reduced costs on this crankset model!!! arrggghh
I get the idea of cost savings, and agree with it,, but it has to make sense. this is one area where it doesn't. but what do I know! 😉At least you solved it 👍
Raceface ended up giving me a 40% discount on a new set of cranks, as I basically wore out the bearing surfaces on the spindle and was getting vertical play (felt really weird when pedalling) - the thin spacers did indeed work (used a 0.2mm) to take up the lateral play however. Seems all the 24mm spindle RF cranks don't use preload rings - only the 30mm spindle cranks use the preload rings. Ended up going with their top of the range Aeffect-R 7000 series alum cranks (the Ride and standard Affect are 6000 series), as my BB was quite new and in great shape. I feel like I'm a reluctant expert in RF cranks now! Cheer!s @@zoubtube
like cleaning a gun
So your saying I did a "bang" up job! 😁