1983 F-100 XLT 300 Inline 6 First Start and Break-In
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- Опубліковано 27 вер 2024
- This 1983 Ford F-100 XLT was my first vehicle and I drove it my junior and senior years of high school. I bought it when I was 16 for $900, not running, from an old man down the road. I paid him $50 a week and walked to his house to work on it while I was paying him off. Finally got everything sorted out and got it running, but ended up selling it a year or two later for $1400 to buy a Mustang. I told the guy it had some sentimental value and that I may want it back eventually. Four years later I called him and asked to buy it back. He said "Sure" and I went to get it for the same $1400 I had sold it for.
Since then, it's kind of sat around. It ran, still, but it had no AC, the suspension and tires were in rough shape from sitting (the guy I sold it to never even registered it in his name), and the engine had enough blow-by that it'd fill the cab with smoke when you stopped at red lights. I bought a Focus for the gas mileage in the meantime, so it sat even more.
Finally got my Mustang running well and decided it would be nice to get the truck back to running right so I could haul my car to events with it. Started with new Moog front springs and isolators, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks all the way around, new rotors and Timken bearings up front, Wagner Severe Duty brake pads, new pivot bushings, Energy Suspension radius arm bushings, etc. Then went after the steering with a new Redhead gearbox, Moog tie rods, and a new ragjoint. I had bought two new tires for the front in 2018, when I first got it back, but the rears were dry rotted. I put new Kumho HT51 XL tires on.
Then it was time for a fresh powerplant. The engine is a 1985 300 I6 I picked up off Craigslist for $300 last year. It was rebuilt by Rebel Rebuilders in Little Rock, AR. I told them I wanted it to go 300,000 miles, and to do what it took to get there. So we went with .030" overbore, .010"/.010" on the crank, redid the heads with a set of new valves, put in a Comp Cams 268 cam and lifter kit, Comp springs to match, Comp timing gear set, Melling oil pump and a beeeeautiful paint job.
I finished the "prettifying" job by cleaning, media blasting, and painting up all the old, nasty brackets, using VHT Engine Primer and VHT Cast Coat Aluminum. Then I reinstalled the brackets with a new AC Compressor and fairly new alternator. A new Offenhauser C four barrel intake replaced the rusty and restrictive one barrel intake. A 500cfm Edelbrock AVS 4 barrel replaced the Carter YFA single barrel carb. The log exhaust manifold wasn't gonna cut it, so I went with a very budget stainless steel longtube style header from Amazon.
Then I just added the other little bits, new Duraspark 2 distributor, new fuel pump, Moroso plug wires, Autolite plugs, and a new coil and plug.
I went ahead and had the C6 transmission rebuilt. I contemplated switching over to the AOD so I could have overdrive, but didn't want to sacrifice the sheer durability and simplicity of the C6. I bought a Hayden auxiliary cooler to run after the factory cooler to keep the trans temps down while towing.
After I got all that installed, it was just time to finish the other little tidbits, which took a while. I didn't work on it for a couple months because AutoCross came back and I was busy working on the Mustang and doing other things. Finally got started back a couple weekends ago. A new AC condenser, radiator, thermostat, fan clutch and the fan all went back on the truck. Got all the vacuum, fuel, coolant, air conditioning, and transmission lines hooked up this past weekend, along with the rest of the wiring. I had previously dumped Lucas 30W Break-In oil in, installed a Motorcraft filter, and primed the engine with a drill.
Also got a later model permanent magnet gear reduction (PMGR) starter installed. I bypassed the fender mounted starter switch (it had a bad habit of sticking closed anyway) and put a new battery cable from the relay to the new starter's relay. The old cable was in pretty good shape, but wasn't quite long enough to route around the header and reach the PMGR terminal that sits further back than the stock starter.
After 6 months of (occasional weekend) work, we finally got to today! With a little gas in the carb bowl, and a little timing adjustment, the engine lit right off! Oil pressure came up immediately, higher on the gauge than I've ever seen on this truck. We ran it for a few minutes here in this video at 2000+ rpm to let the cam break in. Then we shut it off, checked for leaks (a little coolant leak at a radiator hose, no big deal), looked for anything else that didn't look right, then cranked it back up and ran it in for a little while longer.
I still need to hook up the vacuum line to the transmission modulator and fabricate a new throttle bracket (the 4bbl carb is mounted 90* off from the stock 1bbl), but it should finally be on the road this weekend!
The 300 is a much beloved engine among the F Series fans. The 4.2 Essex, while OK, just didn't have soul!
This is one of my dream cars, such a beautiful and unique engine
15 is too young, 36 is too old, 24 is just right......153624
Sweet. I'm in the assembly phase with a 300 replacing the 240 in my'66, and am doing a similar build.
Nice! I love seeing people build these engines. I had the opportunity to go with a 460, but chose to stick with the 300. It's lighter, better gas mileage when I'm not running it loaded, and I think it'll have enough grunt to do what I need to do.
@@radiowave75 The motor I am using is out of a '93, so already has a small volume head. I will definately use it for my next build
Interested in how that 4bbl is working out. I have the 240 version of this engine and I've decided to go with Aussiespeed 2V barrel manifold with a Holley 350cfm 2bbl.
Really considered upgrading to full 300 but, since ive got a running 240, I figure I may as well see what I can get out of it...
Sweet job I like what you’ve done! Great progress
T.F.D 1982 thank you!
GimpyHSHS absolutely I loved seeing you post updates on Facebook!
I loved the video! Thanks for sharing.
Thought I was going to see fingers fly off when buddy got the honey bun wrapper at 1:46 lol
Beautiful reminds me of the engine in line 6 4.0 I used to have until I could not fix the kingpins in the front wheels cannot afford to have them fixed my Ford f-100 1973
Curious as to what the final timing numbers you ended with, initial and total.
That had the dura spark 2 ignition right?
nice what do you have for piping and exhaust? what size pipe? really nice sound cheers!
That’s great. I loved this video. Do you have any of the build and what components you used? Do you know how much HP it makes? It sounds awesome.
You can check out my full build parts/prices here:
drive.google.com/file/d/17fbeVZA4m6yxqU-xqVyV0m0x6mfRAeHh/view?usp=sharing
I basically just recorded all the major items I purchased specifically for the truck. I still haven't put an exhaust on it yet or done the carb tuning. I keep meaning to...
I lost (grrr) the build sheet from the engine shop, but it was a pretty standard .030" overbore, .010/.010" on the crank, all new valves, heads redone. No special 390 pistons/rods, or anything like that. 9:1 compression if I remember correctly. I called them back to get the build sheet and they never sent it. I need to pop back by and ask again, it's the only thing I am missing in my stack of receipts and it's one of the most important lol.
No idea on power to be honest. I didn't build it to have a ton, just needed enough to keep up with traffic and pull my trailer/Mustang around. I haven't even driven it except for about a 5 minute trip around the block.
Please tell me what upgrades you did cause it sounds sweet
I just bought a 1981 ford f150 with the 300 inline 6 but it doesn't have the AC bracket can you tell me where I can get it please
Sounds good
Sounds great! Ac unit and all! What power steering pump are you using ? A fordc2? Or saginaw conversion?
I'm still using the factory 83 style Ford pump. It's been on there since I bought it in 2013, I just painted it up and didn't change it. I would like to go to the Saginaw down the road, but I don't have the right bracket. I did notice when I cranked it up and moved it the other day that the power steering wasn't working. I remember it did that time I drove it before that, but I can't remember if I filled it after the first time. If I do need to replace it, I will definitely be looking for the E-150 van Saginaw bracket.
Ya myself I just put a new gearbox,rag joint, hi/low line and pump. It was time! When driving I always had to make ajustments with the wheel. I was looking into the saginaw but I just stuck with c2 I kind like the ford signature whine . I feel bad for that little hydraulic pump it works hard 😂 I feel like I needs more credit.
@@fordinlinestraight yep, mine got the Redhead gearbox, it feels pretty great down the road. New Ragjoint, all Moog rods. Totally different animal. Unfortunately, I've only driven it once...I still need to tune the carb and take it to the exhuast shop. It's absurdly loud right now lol.
I would like any info about what has to be done to wire the fuel pump and if this will affect my transmission because I do not know if the C6 in my 88 F150 High Boy is electronically shifted or what. I am a GM guy if ya cant tell by my handle. I have never been fond of Fords due to all the monkey shit like this... But I do have the Offy intake and 450 Street slayer carb as well HEI distributor for it. I need to know how to wire it so the fuel pump in the tank kicks in with the key turned. Also the fuel lines might be high pressure and how to get around all that. I have yet to get the regulator everyone has a budget they stick to..
There’s really not any monkey shit here lol. Your fuel pump isn’t a big deal as far as it affecting the trans. It won’t. The C6 is vacuum operated, but also has a kickdown rod. When you press the throttle past a certain point, the kickdown rod…kicks down to the next lower gear. When you go to the Offy intake, the kickdown rod no longer works. You can swap over to a kickdown cable from Lokar (or others) or just leave it off entirely. I don’t have a kickdown means right now, and I can’t say I really notice it. With the 300 I6 and 3.55 gears you never really need to kick down until you some to a stop (and it does do that). The only time it might be needed is a steep hill when I’m pulling my 6000ish pound trailer, and then I can just reach up and downshift it manually. No big deal for me.
You’d have to look at the wiring diagram to find which one to use. The Gary’s Garagemahal has a ton of useful info. www.garysgaragemahal.com/wiring-diagrams.html.
Very nice. I'm considering doing the exact same 4 barrel carb upgrade on my I6 86' F250. Have also debated going the EFI route as well but it's so much $$$. Currently running a YFA carb. Are there other options for the intake manifold, so far I have only seen the Offenhauser C? Also, how difficult was everything to swap out?
Andrew, I'm so sorry, I just saw this! I think the Offy C is the best route. I did a lot of research and wrung my hands before buying. They're quite pricey. That said, I chose the "C" because it would allow me to install a Holley Sniper later on down the road, whereas I am not sure the Offy DP would. The Dual Port doesn't seem to have a ton of advantages, so I think the C is the better route.
Nothing was too difficult to swap, but you have to remember that I did a TON of other things at the same time. I had the engine and trans out, the radiator was replaced, all of the AC system, etc. So I had a lot of room to do things, and I got the engine fully assembled before it went back in the truck. That definitely helped.
@@GimpyHSHS Getting ready to do a Offenhauser intake manifold with a Holle 4 bl 390 Cfm What kind of troubles for this on 4.9 6 cy
@@mikesmith-pg3lb You might check out the fordsix forum before going that small of a carb. Seams like most are going to 500 to 600 cfm carbs. I just ordered a 500 cfm for my build
@@johnjamieson6368 Thank You for the Inf.I have been told that anything over the 390 cfm would be too much gas going in the motor to blog it down. So heck I am Not saying you are right or wrong Just don't know. Plus I don't have it on the motor at this time anyway.
@@mikesmith-pg3lb the Holley 390 is one of the most go-to carbs for Inline 6. It will work great for the engine. It's twice the size of the factory carb and has plenty of cfm. I went with the Edelbrock 500 for money reasons.
Sick build, i’m trying to get headers, c series intake, and a new 4 barrel. But my question is, how did you deal with the different throttle linkage? I’m worried it’s going to be a huge hassle.
It is a bit of a pain, especially if you have cruise control. I cut up the old pieces and bolted them to an old bracket I had laying around that looks like this: www.aliexpress.com/item/4000365500743.html
Mine ended up being just a hair too close to the carb, so the spring built in to the throttle cable catches on the choke linkage a little when you first press down on the pedal. I haven’t worked on the truck in forever as work has been nuts. But I will fix that at some point.
Lokar throttle cable. HGM throttle position sensor kit. 4R70W trans.
I have a 66 ford custom inline 6 240. I want to do a 4 barrel and intake like this! I have a ford loadomatic distributor. What distributor do i need to run a 4 barrel like this???? Help
I would convert to the Duraspark 2 (DS2) if I were you. Reliable electronic ignition and cheap to convert to. There's also HEI distributors made for the 240/300. I picked up an HEI distributor and haven't used it, deciding to keep the factory DS2 instead.
You will need a few parts:
-Distributor/Cap/Rotor - Just go to the parts store and look up a 1983 Ford F-100 with 300 I6. That came with DS2.
(Rock Auto has them for around $50:
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1983,f-100,4.9l+300cid+l6,1120600,ignition,distributor,7108)
-Ignition Coil - Same here, just look it up under 1983 F-100 w/300 I6.
(Rock Auto has them for around $10:
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1983,f-100,4.9l+300cid+l6,1120600,ignition,ignition+coil,7060)
-Ignition Module - Same here, just look it up under 1983 F-100 w/300 I6.
(Rock Auto has them for around $50...they have cheaper ones, but I would recommend Motorcraft for this part:
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1983,f-100,4.9l+300cid+l6,1120600,ignition,ignition+control+module+(icm),7172)
Painless Performance sells a wiring kit to connect it all together:
www.painlessperformance.com/wc/30812
Wiring instructions: www.painlessperformance.com/manuals/30812.pdf
Aside from the wiring harness, you can pick up every single component in any big-name auto parts store.
You might save some coin by making your own wiring using connectors off RockAuto. I don't like doing that myself, but depends on your situation. Either way, for around $200 for all new parts, you can entirely convert to electronic ignition.
Anyone put the 4bbl on a van, worried about room for the carb and aircleaner😅
Whats the brand & part number on the budget stainless steel longtube style header from Amazon.
Oddly enough, I can't find them on Amazon or eBay anymore...even the listing from Amazon where I bought mine is no longer there. But it's made by DNA motoring. The listing title back then was "DNA MOTORING HDS-FPU65-2WD-LT". Maybe reach out to them and see if they still make it? I'd be curious to know myself.
Como poner los pistones a ese motor
Why's it idol so high?
The first start on a flat tappet cam, it is a good practice to raise the idle to break in. The cam is splash lubricated by the crankshaft and at idle speeds, that can't happen.
Now find yourself A ZF 5 Speed!
C
Idle to high
Wrong
6 in a row is the way to go
Nice sounding engine, and you did a great job of detailing it! I like the parts combo you used, how do you like the end result? Gas mileage OK with this combo?
Thank you! I actually took a REALLY long break from this project to focus on my 1995 Mustang and do some general repairs to my daily Focus (AC quit last year, wheel bearings had some noise, power steering rack was having issues, etc.). But I also did all new, racier suspension on the Mustang starting in August. Then I tore it apart for a basic rebuild in December and found some things I didn’t like. Cracked Keith Black piston was the main issue, but also worn bearings, substandard cylinder honing...I bought it used and ran it very hard. 7200 RPMs for 20 minute runs at Hallett and hard AutoX runs on stock block, crank, and rods.
So I had a 427w Dart block and forged rotating assembly built and I’m actually going tomorrow to put it on the dyno.
Anywho’s...I drove the truck a couple days last week for the first time since this video was taken. GREAT get up and go compared to the old engine. I still need to do some carb tweaking and get the vacuum advance hooked up and adjusted, but I was kind of waiting till I had an exhaust to do that, which literally just happened last week also. I’ll probably do an update video in the near future. I’ve really neglected the truck after investing so much in it last year.
I’ve also only put gas in it once, filled it up and put around 40 miles on it in a couple days. I haven’t diagnosed the gauge that hasn’t worked since...2014 😂 I just go 150 miles and I go fill it up. Usually has plenty left in it, I just don’t risk it after too many experiences running out of gas with girls in the truck back in high school 🤣
When you do a break in like this, do you have to adjust the carb and set the timing or just leave it about 2 turns out on the carb and get the cam broke in without tuning it yet? I’ve got a 78 f250 300 4x4 4 speed and I’m about to put the motor in but have never done a break in before. Do I just roll it to tdc and drop the distributor in, and then roll it to 10-15 after tdc and start it after filling the carb and vent tube and idle it up to 2-2,500?
Love it!
Sounds great! What are you running behind the headers?
Nothing yet! Haha, I have only moved it around in the parking lot so far as I've had to work on the Mustang a lot the past few months (now IT needs an engine).
Still need to do some tuning to the carb and make some tweaks to the, erm, "custom" throttle bracket. It's quite loud at the moment. The plan is to take it to the exhaust shop and have them put the quietest muffler they have on there.
Rip the slushbox out put a nice 4 speed or 5-speed behind it!
I prefer the auto in this truck. No real interest in doing a manual swap for me. I have my Mustang for driving stick. If I did a trans swap, it would be an AOD. But I like the durability of the C6. It's a fresh rebuild.
4R70W
Power steering?brakes are?
I’m going to tear down my 96’ i6 and convert it to carbonated. I’ll really like to pick your brain and ask questions on how you did it and possibly get “do’s and don’ts”. It sounds healthy and runs good man!
Thanks! Happy to answer anything I can, though I'm definitely not the pro with these trucks.
Shoot me a message on Facebook if you have it?
facebook.com/gimpyhshs/
What’s size air filter did you go with? Any issues with it hitting the AC components? Awesome build!
I was worried about running into the AC components, so I use a standard 14x3 air filter with the Trans-Dapt 2430 offset air cleaner. Works great, looks great, highly recommend.
www.amazon.com/Trans-Dapt-2430-Chrome-Offset-Cleaner/dp/B000CQ20SM/ref=asc_df_B000CQ20SM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312091590621&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6851867254076592505&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9025854&hvtargid=pla-628640245562&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=61856009453&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312091590621&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6851867254076592505&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9025854&hvtargid=pla-628640245562
Let me backtrack after checking my Amazon order history...I actually used the Spectre 4768, but the Trans-Dapt 2430 is essentially the same thing it looks like.
This is the one I actually use:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AJ6FD8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@GimpyHSHS wow, thank you for the response. I really appreciate it. I’m going to install a Holley sniper on my 300 and saw a guy with a 4 barrel carb and a tiny little air filter and instantly broke out into cold sweats as I had already ordered my intake 😂 glad to see that there are options out there. Thanks again!
@@briangoodburn9765 no problem! Yeah, I would recommend one of those since 14x2 or 14x3 air filters are cheap and plentiful. You could go taller, but I never liked seeing a 6" tall air filter on a vehicle. The 300 doesn't need it and I hate the way it looks lol.
I do love the Holley Sniper! The 1995 Mustang on my channel has one on a newish 427w. Eventually, I may go with a "better" EFI system on the Mustang and move the 4150 Sniper on the Mustang over to this truck. On the Mustang, having info like oil pressure and stuff like that incorporated would be really nice for the racetrack (not to mention multiport fuel injection being "safer" than throttle body injection in high horsepower applications).
@@GimpyHSHS yeah I was wondering if the 3 inch would fit under the hood and was gonna take some measurements this evening. Thanks for the help, I was curious if you’d respond after a year!
Carb is mounted wrong. This is not a V-8.
Carb is mounted correctly.
If you know nothing about 300s, you shouldn’t try to correct someone that does
True indeed. Just wondering why you mounted it that way. I can see a dual float bowl Holley hitting the valve cover but not an Edelbrock. I have both the Clifford and Offy Dual Port. The adapter will mount carb either way. The right way or the wrong way.
@@deadcarnahans1932 the Offy C only mounts one way out of the box. I could probably get an adapter, but there’s really no point since all 4 barrels open into the same plenum area anyway. The DP mounts 90* the opposite way.
I was looking at Summits new catalog. There are new small EFI systems that have me thinking....
im assuming your using a 2 barrel carb, haave you ever considers upgrading to a 4 barrel?
You can see the 4 barrel carb right in the video.