Escape the Blur: Zone Focus Explained
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- Have you ever wondered how legendary street photographers captured amazing shots using cameras that, by today's standards, seem outdated? Well, besides their undeniable talent, the secret lies in a technique called zone focusing.
Zone focusing is a technique, often used in street photography that lets you concentrate on timing (the decisive moment as Bresson called it) and composition while not worrying about your subject being in focus. It is faster than the fastest auto-focus because it's already focused before it even gets to your eye. Don't be afraid of it. It's easy. What's this video and you'll be zone focusing like a pro in no time. Leica, Pentax, Minolta, Canon or even Nikon, the camera doesn't matter. It does require manual focus though.
If you have any questions then leave them in the comments and I will do my best to get to them. Happy shooting.
#streetphotography #streetphotographytips #zonefocus
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Thank you. This made zone focus a lot easier to understand. And I love your homemade pointer!!!!
I'm glad this video helped you understand zone focus better! And thank you for your kind words about my homemade pointer!
Nice presentation of a very useful, practical technique my friend. And what I love about using zone focusing (esp. for street photography) is when you encounter sometimes dramatic changes in the amount of light you have over time you can set your aperture and shutter speed as desired while using auto ISO. Even in relatively low-light settings, most modern full frame cameras can handle such conditions with relatively little noise. The improvement in sensor technology and noise reduction (both "in-camera" and in post-production software) over the past few years has been amazing. As you know, auto ISO allows you to use the depth of field you want, with the shutter speed you want (say, when you want to avoid a lot of blur due to slow shutter speed), and have the exposure you want. It's great when you can use zone focusing even in challenging low-light conditions one might find on the street or wherever (events, weddings, etc.). I am enjoying your videos, Keith. Keep up the great work!
Thank you very much Bob. Both for watching and commenting. :)
It's actual descriptive name is 'Depth of Field'. This is nothing new.
This remains applicable today. I now own a mirrorless camera with excellent AF, including subject tracking. It lures you into always focusing, refocusing because it seldom misses, even with long lenses shooting sports.
But any time you or the camera are actively focusing, it can sometimes miss, however rare. What cannot miss is being in focus earlier and using a sane aperture.
Thank you for that. I appreciate your perspective.
Thank you for this video. I am using this zone focus tip especially when I am shooting from the hip to be discrete. 😊
Hip shooting is a very good reason to use zone focus. I'm glad this was helpful.
Very good
Thank you!
Keep up the great work my friend!
Thanks Scott!🙏🍷 I hope the desert is treating you well!
Interesting, great explanation
, subbed.
I use a digital film camera from time to time but ill have to keep this in mind when i pick up an actual film camera.
Thanks for taking the time to comment! I’m glad it helped.
Came to check what are you talking about here :) have to say I love it! +1 sub ;)
Awesome, thank you!!
Can you just set, say f8, and set the lens to, say, between whatever parameters are shown on the lens so that anything between the two f8 markers will be in focus? Rather than setting the focus to a specific distance and then seeing what is in focus either side?
Certainly! They both get to the same point. It’s what’s between the numbers that’s important.
@@streetphotographymentor Good then I've been doing it right for about three years!
Rock on. In the end, as long as you consistently get the results you are after then how you do it becomes irrelevant. Consistent results are key. 🤘
Duuude!! Your question is what put this all together for me!!! Thanks! Now I understand how it works :D
Hello with the f-stops you have mentioned for zone focusing doesn’t this all have to correspond with available light? I like to shoot in the dark so hence need a wider f-stop has the only light available is artificial. Thanks
Fcus in my own Mind
determines
what and How I focus at
😁
Good Information I use this for street photography. I always buy manual lenses to have these settings. Very few cameras have this option in menu.
It's a shame that most auto-focus lenses don't have usable (or any) depth of field scales. Zeiss has a pretty good electronic scale on some of it's lenses. I have a 25mm auto focus by them that I use that has a very good scale on it. I don't use it for street photography though.
@@streetphotographymentor to my knowledge Ricoh GR’s and fujifilm have that menu based. I used to use that on my x100v.
@@sdhute That's interesting. I have the X100s. I'll have to see if it has that. I don't think I ever zone focused with it. I relied on its auto-focus. It is and was one of my favorite cameras ever. It's still very capable. The updated versions with the tilt screen are very cool and the tilt screen is great for street photography.
@@streetphotographymentor I found that menu setting on my x100v after watching a video on how to setup the x100v for street photography. I no longer have that camera but should have kept it.
Is it correct that you can only use zone focusing with a rangefinder? I have been doing street photography with an SLR (canon ae-1) for over a year now, and I'm thinking it may make whole a lot of sense to switch to a rangefinder. Many, many of my photos are out of focus, especially when I don't use my viewfinder and try to estimate the distance and do a hip shot.
You can definitely use a canon AE1. The manual focus lens on it will have scale markers just like those on Leicas and others. It works exactly the same. The difference between the two, slr and rangefinder is the focus method if you look through the finder. If you are zone focusing then the learning curve of the actual rangefinder (which I find fun now that I’m past the learning phase) doesn’t apply. In the beginning of my rangefinder journey (which was with a Zeiss Ikon) I was completely unsure how anyone could use one in a critical situation. It’s just practice. You don’t need a rangefinder they are fun to use. Thanks for the question.
Hi Keith, Love the explanation.... but sadly spoiled by the background music.... May I suggest you watch this back with headphones on and see just how distracting the music is.... NOT being a smartass.... just trying to help you out... kind regards... Yoki..
I'll take another listen. I'm still trying to nail down the elements. It's a lot to learn (which makes it fun actually). Thank you very much for your feedback.
I like the music, would be odd without it
I didn't mind the music at all.
@@streetphotographymentormusic is great just make it faint.
@@AlienGrade Thank you!
So many people use photography as an excuse to talk about themselves.
I hear you. I haven't looked at it that way as I've watched others. It would seem that most, including myself, mention themselves in their video in order to show that they have experience with the subject matter. Many appreciate knowing whether the person offering advice has had trouble with the subject in the same way and it becomes more relatable. There are those that just get straight to it without qualification and that's fine too. If I'm looking for help on something I need quickly, I tend to look at the video duration before watching. It gives an indication of what to expect. I'm sure there are those that look for self aggrandizement but I'm lucky to not run across much of it. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. I appreciate it.
So what dude?
Nothing wrong with that.
No one spoke or shown interest in you, it happens 🤷
I don't get it. Can u re explain
Certainly. I'll use f8 again for clarity. Substitute whatever aperture you are shooting at for f8 if it's different. Look at the lens. There is a scale with aperture numbers that mirror each other on the left and right side. Assuming you are using f8, whatever distance is in between the f8's on the left and right are what is in acceptable focus. That's really it. If you want Hyper focus (out to infinity) then put the center of the infinity symbol (looks like a sideways figure 8) on the right side aperture number. Whatever falls between the left side aperture number and infinity is now in acceptable focus. I hope that helped.
@@streetphotographymentor hi there, i will tr to read and watch your video again till i can digest and understand it. I'm a slow learner but I am very keen to master this. I appreciate your patience
@@Phoyographer let me know if you get stuck. I'll see what I can do to help. It will come.