Installing a Solar Panel On-Off Switch and +/- Buss Bars
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- Опубліковано 20 жов 2024
- I needed to make some upgrades to the simple electrical system on my 6'x10' converted cargo trailer camper. I installed a switch to shut off my solar panels, installed positive and negative buss bars and I also explain how a Renogy Self Heating LiFeP04 battery works.
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Getting out on the road is what Linda and I love to do with our converted cargo trailer camper. We're part time nomads and the nomadic lifestyle suits us to a Tee. Whether your RV is a camper van, camp trailer, travel trailer, motorhome or just a car and a tent, there's going to be something interesting for you in the videos we produce. Back roads and overlanding are part of what we do while exploring the western states for beautiful, peaceful and sometimes remote places to camp on BLM and National Forest land (public land). Taking care of ourselves as much as possible and doing our own repairs is a must because we travel on a fixed income and a limited budget. If your into being off-grid and boondocking, or doing dispersed camping whenever possible then you'll appreciate the discussions on batteries, solar panels and solar chargers or power stations and 12v refrigeration. Come on along, we're happy to have your company!
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Being someone with no knowledge of anything electrical I appreciate your informed videos. You make it so, to a degree, people like myself can understand. I still don’t know what a bus bar actually does.
Thank you so much for your awesome videos!
A buss bar is simply a distribution center for a variety of different power supplies or negative grounds. You put power on one end of it and attach whatever you need to that.
Improvise and adapt, you are a master at it, sir!
Great picture of you and Linda standing next to the VW bus!
Thanks for sharing Rick Useful info for my future application . Take Care.
Spring is almost here . Enjoy ALL.
I'm really looking forward to Spring!
Enjoy your revised intro thanks for sharing some of your history… and thanks for keeping your Vlog simple..
Thanks for the solar education!
You done a fine job on the installation of your switch and buss bars. Simple is always the best way to go if you can. Take care my friend
Thanks, Willis! I hope you're having a great day.
Yay coffee with Rick! We miss Linda though😏
Good craftsmanship. Most people wouldn't have taken the time to solder the wire ends. As an electrician I like to see that especially for rv/marine purposes
Thanks!
It's a very inexpensive, easy add-on! Thanks for your practical solutions to common problems!!
Outstanding clear video. I needed to see one of those disconnects installed. I want to add one into my solar system so i can disconnect my solar when I am driving and run a 10 amp smart charger off my cars cigarette lighter socket on cloudy days.
Nicely done!
Great job in explaining your connections...
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing this. That little switch/breaker seems to have a lot of potential in applications.
Great video Rick. It looks like a really good solution.
JT
I like simple!👍🏻
Very simple & clean install on the breaker and bus bars. Hopefully Linda’s ankle is healing well and you guys are back out on the road before too long
I hope so too. I also hope that we all can afford the gas in the coming days.
These work perfectly in my experience! I noticed we had some issued initially in our last build with making sure that the screws were tight enough, but once we got that figured out it was solid! Great video, easy to understand and well laid out! I can also appreciate the "whys" behind your logic!
Thank you, Cozy Living Machine!
Good to see you Rick! I hope Linda is feeling better. I’m sure y’all will be champing at the bit to be on the road agin. 🙂🙏🏻🇺🇸
I am a practitioner of the KISS principal and leaving some room to grow. The challenge is to reasearch the materials available that do the job and are cost effective. Your amplifier switch and breaker was a heck of a good find for your needs!
Thank you!
I always enjoy your videos
Great job! A portable solar panel is in my future and all of this information will be helpful when the time comes! Many thanks!
I have had to replace 2 of those exact breakers in the last year for failures. Both times the internal contacts failed and stuck 'open circuit'.
Just a heads up.
Switched over to a low voltage breaker on a DIN rail for about the same money. They have a much more robust design and contact materials.
Have same type in motorhome setup for last 3 years with no problems. Maybe you just got "lucky" and got a bad batch.
@@dougwilson8274 It's from China-mart, watcha gonna do? I have found that things from china change over time. Have bought the same items, same suppliers, with different components in the same year. What I'm sayin is, what was - is not the same as what 'is' - with off shore items.
Thanks for the suggestion. I looked that up on Amazon and put one of those on my wish list. It's also a dual pole breaker to shut off both leads. "www.amazon.com/dp/B09B7G1Z57/?coliid=I1RZAYIAYBKWD4&colid=2JP936QJYAWP6&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1&_encoding=UTF8&tag=youtube0ee5-20&linkCode=ur2&linkId=3656b2733040817580e66a6f57eeb2e8&camp=1789&creative=9325
Keep it simple - saves headaches!
Always!
I've done this on three different solar installs. I just used appropriate(amp) single pole toggle switch near the controller on positive lead input from panel. Helps in servicing when one needs to disconnect battery leads into controller. Can destroy controller if no battery in line of controller when panels are charging.
Rick on the truck circuit breaker you can put shrink tube and shrink it on the 2 connectors that stick out. I use them also on solar and mine have auto reset after to much draw. I have also used the switch you are using they work ok but I would not trust the breaker to trip at the rating. Hope Linda is doing well and you stay safe and healthy.
I like your idea of the shrink tubing and will use that! Thanks! Linda is doing fine but is anxious to get back out again.
Straight forward information. I have used those breakers several times and still can’t work out if there is a correct way to wire them up. i.e. which is inlet and outlet. Cheers from IK. AJ
I don't think it matters as there is no marking on them. One person did say that if you're using them as a switch to go to a higher amperage than you think you need to prevent damage from arcing.
Wise, that's how I do my solar panels and other things. I use DC Eaton's Bussmann circuit breaker in my system. Super easy when you need to work on the system. Although they are a bit pricey for them, they are still worth every penny!
I looked them up and they look good. A dual pole breaker would be nice.
I like it, it's clean, nicely done thank you stay safe all
Check the voltage drop across the breaker. I tried a similar one on my 800 watts and found significant voltage drop through the breaker. What I actually use now is a simple 120 volt, 20amp wall switch in a little blue handy box from Home Depot. Works great! I too have inline fuses for protection.
Good idea. I have used regular house type wall switches for years, in many different projects. For example, the under hood light on the Suburban, so it's not on when not necessary. Happiness to all Y'all. Aloha
I missed Linda, not even a quick cameo!
That's a good idea to put a switch on that hood light, I've just been leaving mine unplugged!
I can't wait to get here back in the videos. Last night we we're talking about making a local camping trip to see how she handles it. If it would just warm up a little!
That is what I do too, is solder the ends, it also keeps any stray strands for getting out of place. Will Prowse always cuts the ends off and it kinda drives me nuts. Actually you should have a double pull circuit breaker to cut off both wires at the same time.
I saw switches like that, but thought they were too cumbersome for my small needs. Any reason to shut of the negative side that you can think of?
A mistake I see a lot of DYI people make is using AC breakers or switches for their DC circuits on solar installs. DC tends to produce a more destructive arc when switched and needs to have spring loaded heavy duty switch contacts to quickly connect and disconnect the circuit to mitigate that arc which can weld contacts together or burn the contacts open. Also AC and DC current and voltage ratings on breakers are slightly different due to root mean square calculations on AC vs DC breakers. Your switch and breaker are good to go. I use a similar breaker to your Amazon car stereo one on my battery output to my inverter but a 185 Amp one. The breakers to my charge controller and battery input from the controller are Midnite Solar DC breakers installed in one of their Babybox panels. I would suggest putting a breaker between your charge controller and battery. Most charge controllers don't like any arcing that might occur while connecting or disconnecting the batteries and can flake on you. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the great info!! I have a 30 amp inline fuse between my charge controller and battery, but I was just getting ready to remove it this week because of the fear of an accidental disconnect from the controller and the battery causing damage to the controller.
Isn’t that why you always remove the negative first and install it last …when working with batteries…. Or is it still an issue when you install the negative last?
Those circuit breakers/switches are only rated for 24 volts, and your solar array is pushing way more than that, this is why they do not recommend using these, and should use a proper dual pole disconnect switch instead. Let us know how it holds up over time
The solar panels are putting out less than 24volts because they are hooked up in parallel. Recently I installed a Bluetti AC200P which requires at least 36volts to charge and I hooked up the panels in series and replaced the switch to a 50amp double pole. Thanks!
That is the first thing I put INLINE with my solar! 3:20
WOW, 400 watts of solar on a trailer! ! ! good job!
I am going to shoot for 660-800 and 200-300 amp hours of Lithium. I have no clue what the future holds for me, being kicked to the road with no job, so I can not get a place to stay without a job.
We hope the future brightens up for you, this is a very crazy and difficult (to say the least) time. Where are you now?
@@gonagain East of the RENO,NV area... in the cold desert. I need to build out this VAN to sleep up off the floor.
Got it! I know that Bob Wells has covered this subject in detail, but we know that you can live very comfortably in a van that is pretty basic. That was the whole reason we originally started this channel, to try and help the van dwellers and others we met who were living on a small income. Our hearts just went out to those folks that we met on the road, and we had been in that situation many times ourselves.
I used a marine buss with individual fuses for the various circuits, so in case of a short I can't find, it will only take out the individual short circuit.
Great information thank you !
Very informative 👍👍thank you!
Hi Teresa! Are you about done with winter like we are?
@@gonagain LOL absolutely 💯% I got the Michigan winter blues...Thank God better days are coming....❤
I see many other solar installs with similar wiring, and components, screwed into the wood of the RV or trailer. I know you have already finished the work, but for future reference - any device in an electrical system can fail. When it does, it might heat up and melt, or throw a big spark. If that hot metal lands on some flammable material, it can burn your RV down.
The best practice is to place all electrical components in one space, so they can be protected. Then surround them in a material that will not burn. It doesn't need to be a thick metal enclosure like a breaker box in your home, but it should be good enough that a hot glob of copper will not catch the enclosure on fire.
Good point.
Thx for the knowledge.
You bet, Dan, thanks for watching.
Good video as always, very informative/teaching.
How's Linda and her ankle?
She's doing good. Got out of her cast a couple of days ago and starts PT this week to get her strength back.
@@gonagain Good to hear! We don't realize just how important our feet are till there's a problem. PT will have her up and walking the trails with you soon. Stay safe and keep the videos coming 😉
Good info
Thanks for emphasizing the importance of the sequence of panel and battery hookup. I think this may be broadly misunderstood. Panels must be connected last... panels must be disconnected first.
I've been told that I should have put in a dual pole breaker to close off both the positive and the negative leads at the same time. I ordered one and will be updating the video.
@@gonagain I'm not interested in learning the hard way as I did with the panel attachment sequence. I have been removing fuse in the positive panel circuit. Why does the negative need to be disconnected? Thanks for the great vids!
How to know if your breaker is big enough. What is the short circuit amps of the panel array? Make the breaker bigger than that with some extra for tolerances.
That is the same breaker I use to disconnect my solar panels.
I noticed you have the no drill holes solar mounts. How do you like them and what did you use to secure them the the camper? Thanks for the video, I'll be getting one of those power cutoff for my setup.
I had to replace the adhesive with a newer one by Sikaflex, which is the 292i. The one I used in the video was letting go of the plastic, but the newer adhesive is made for both aluminum and plastic and is holding fine. I've used it again on my newer panels since then.
Hi! This is super helpful! I’ve built a tiny, 12v portable diy solar box for tent camping (10v, .5mA panel and Renogy 10A controller connected to an NPP 7Ah battery) . I too find it helpful to be able to shut off the panel to the controller while I work on or disconnect the battery). Most search results take me to very large current systems too so this video is awesome. Do you think a breaker switch in my tiny system is needed (vs a plain 12v inline switch)? How has this breaker switch worked for you so far? Thanks so much.
The switch works just fine and for the price you can't go wrong. If you don't want a breaker switch you could get an MP4 connector that has an internal fuse.
I have sealed fuse holders down in the battery compartment. I know, its not close to the energy source, panels, but the likelihood of a short on the roof is very small.
I actually didn't use the audio breaker for a fuse, but only as a switch so that I could disconnect the battery for removal and not damage the solar controller. I hope you're still enjoying a warm and dry climate. Springtime in Montana is to be avoided.
@@gonagain Im in Lost Wages now for a couple days. Then finally head home to my cat and what's her name. 😁
@@CITAP1 Tell your cat hello for me!
Neat job
good to know, thanks for sharing..
Gypsy J....
Hey sir, love your videos, been watching for a while now...I have a question and need your opinion, and maybe you can do a video explaining the following concept to your viewers...I am currently converting a 5*8 cargo trailer to a bug out camper...one of my concerns is an emp attack....do you have any idea if a cargo trailer would have protection from an emp attack? I would like to be able to protect my electronics, radios, walkie talkies, cb etc etc....Thank you in advance.
From what I understand, a cargo trailer is good at protecting your electronics during an EMP attack. I'll look into this some more myself.
That’s slick.
To insulate the exposed breaker, just use an old Mayo plastic jar. Be sure to empty the jar first . . . cleaning is optional :>)
You're quite savvy on fixing and repairing on your trailer. Great video Rick. Do you still fly on occasion?
I'm certainly no expert on wiring and only post what I happen to be doing in hopes that it helps someone. I get a lot of good responses and learn quite a bit that way. I never get to fly anymore because of the cost, but sure do miss it a lot.
@@gonagain I know folks who got their basic license to fly. They are just joy riders and only fly in good weather. I admire how you and Linda have lived.
Hello 👋 From Missouri 🙂
Hello there!
Not sure I’m with you on pulling batteries each year. Very heavy and don’t want to drop them
Trickle charge is a good way to go I think.
How many years are you expecting from your lithium batts?
I used to trickle charge my lead acid batteries and they were fine that way. The lithium batteries weigh a fraction of what those weighed and are very easy to move around. I'm just going by what the manufacturer recommends about leaving them in the cold if you don't have to in order to prolong their life. As for longevity? I'm seeing that 10 years is possible if the battery is taken care of, even 20 years is possible.
Are trickle chargers needed for batteries in storage?
Not so much for lithium batteries, which can hold their charge very well through the winter. You should store them at about 60-80% charge and it's recommended to not leave them out in the cold.
@@gonagain
I wouldn't like being left out in the cold either. 😜
Hope Linda is healing and able to move around some.
Thanks for the info.🤙
Great video but I’m gonna ask again. Could you please do a video on the butane can heater plate you made for the stove? Have fun stay safe.
Hello Kenneth, I got the butane stove out to remind me to do a video on that. Keep watching!
@@gonagain thanks I bought one before I found out about that heater thing to use more of the fuel from a can.
I'm going with an additional battery isolation switch. It's way overrated and not too expensive and available at any automotive store or Wal-Mart.
Great video Rick. Have you ever considered using ferrules on your wires instead of tinning them ? I personally love them. Just an idea.
l didn't know about them until just recently, but they look like a good idea.
@@gonagain they work great and are much easier and a better connection.
If the circuit breaker to the batteries opens with solar panels "on," is there possibility the charge controller will be damaged?
It's ok to have a circuit breaker between the panels and the controller, but not between the controller and the battery.
Thanks
🤙
Just to be safe on solar should disconnect the other line also. DC power works both ways
Ok, a couple of people mentioned that, but you just explained it. Thanks! My purpose was just to turn off the power to the controller and not to protect the circuit. Do you think the dual pole breaker would still matter?
Do you know if renogy solar panels are compatible with the Bluetti AC200 Max ?
Yes they are, depending on the size of the panel.
Wondering why you didn't cut the negative wire and put the on off switch you cut the positive
That's the way it's done, by breaking the positive wire. I've since put on a double pole breaker that cuts both.
@@gonagain You might need to make a video about the double pole breaker. I'm new to all of this. By the way I'm wondering if the breaker you put only on the positive solar wire is only for positive solar wires. Can that device be used for negative solar wire too
Timely video as shortly I am going to put the two solar panels I take in and out of my permanently parked RV and attach them on the side with the one that's already there. I'm tired of connecting and disconnecting. I just have to find a local source for Sikaflex. I've ordered tubes twice now and had to return them. The first was frozen and the tube was so beat up I would only be able to cut in half and smear on. The replacement tube just fell out of the flimsy plastic sack it was shipped in when I picked it up. The applicator tip was attached and broken with the broken piece gone. It was beaten up too and the push cap on the end had been pushed forward showing a trail of glue. This time I want to pick the tube up and see what I'm buying.
By the way, good move putting the switch up high so Linda can't play with it.
For the Sikaflex, try a marine supply store. I've been having good luck getting it from Amazon and haven't had a bad tube yet, but there's always a first time. Buy through an Amazon source that has the most reviews because their products are fresher.
I've already tried the marine stores in the area. I'll have to revisit amazon and pay more attention to the ratings. Thank you. Hope Linda is doing well.
@@jimv.661 That's what I do Jim. I figure the ones with all the feedback are the ones who are moving stock, so it's fresh.
I have seen some disconnects being dual pole & disconnect pos & neg at same time.
I'm not sure I see the need for doing that. Would you tell me your thoughts on that?
@@gonagain "NEC 2020 690.13 ,
PV system disconnecting means shall simultaneously disconnect the PV system conductors that are not solidly grounded from all other wiring systems".
Nate from Explorist.Life discusses this exact scenario in one of his videos.
@@gonagain the other thing, it looks like you are running 1 panel. On a multi panel system the OC voltage coming in may surpass the max voltage that Circuit breaker that you are using is rated for.
@@ctclimberguy34 I've ordered a dual pole, 50amp DC breaker to replace that switch and will make an update for that video. Thanks!
That's interesting ... never knew there was a heater in the battery ... I was checking out those batteries the other day ... think now I'll try to come up with a tempurature controlled 12 volt heater pad for a battery box ... seen alot of different variations on Amazon for seed germination and reptile pads ... also seen heating pads that you can sew into jackets or vests ... looks like I may be going into Thunder Dome or WW lll mode by the end of the month ... I hope that's a joke ?
I hope that's a joke also! I have a heated coat that I really like and it's very efficient. The heating pad just runs off of USB power packs of any manufacture and might be just the ticket for what you have in mind, except for you would just hook a USB port to the battery itself. You would need to come up with some sort of temperature control to operate the system to only come on when the battery is being charged.
@@gonagain I rigged up a tempurature control device for my 120 volt "Bucket Heater" ... tempurature control is not very expensive and you can buy them for 12 Volts for under 20 Dollars ... the heating pads for jackets are usually made of Carbon Fibre which means they should have a range of 5 to 20 volts DC .... if they are too hot at 12 volts they can be controlled with a 25 cent resistor or a simple Potentiometer/Volume Control ... when I get around to it I'll let you know how it worked out ...
@@richardr1891 Thanks Richard, you know a lot more than me. Keep me posted.
Be careful with the switch. DC solar panels will melt most switches because it can arc across the connectors as there is no break in the circuit. You should put an ugly steel box around it to maximize the time to fight the fire.
Right you are. I've installed 50 amp DC circuit breakers since.
Hey Rick…How’s that 🐄 🔔 Linda was handy with for getting your much needed attention? Hope she’s healing up nicely and you’re pampering her with plenty of 🍩’s.
Hello Linda! She's recovering well and is working on getting back to normal. Breaking an ankle is quite a set-back!
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I personally will never install one of those switches in my system or any install i do for other people, they are not safe. Please people, never cheap out on safety equipment like fuses, switches, cables or connectors. I understand and yes i am poor too, I live full-time in my 1967 GM TDH-4519 city transit bus in the high desert of New Mexico and I am disabled and unable to work anymore so I live on a very fixed income. Is saving a couple of bucks on a switch or fuse worth losing your home?
Those breakers are made for woofer speakers using DC current and this one has never failed. Just get one that's rated for the current being used.
Those breakers are known to not open when they are ment too, they are known to get so hot they melt. Please sir , get some DC rated house type circuit breakers
House switches are AC..you MUST use a DC switch!
I used 4 of those in my system 3 out of four failed. I wouldn't use
I'll be watching out for that. Maybe use a larger amperage size?
Battery Switch 12-48V Waterproof Heavy Duty Battery Power Cut Master Switch Disconnect Isolator for about $12 will also work to isolate the solar panels
Great video thank you!