I just got my Neptune 3 Max on Wednesday. I severely underestimated its size and am now rearranging my entire office to accommodate it. It's is both a thing of beauty, and also a beast. I should be getting it up and running today and am very excited to do so. Thanks for the great review! I had been going back and forth between the Neptune 3 Max and the Kobra Max for weeks and almost bought the Kobra since the Neptune 3 was generally out of stock. I'm glad I waited and checked Elegoo's site directly to order.
As a quick follow up, I LOVE THIS PRINTER. It has been a champ with everything I've thrown at it (including PETG which both my Creality machines ran away crying against).
Thank you for a great run down on that machine. So many “review videos” don’t even show it printing! I wondered how weak that heater cartridge was for larger nozzles and no one could answer that. That machine looks like a great candidate for a Bondtech / Slice DDX upgrade to really push big beads. And replace that sensor with a BL Touch. Great video.
I think I’m gonna end up putting the Bondtech / Revo combo I have on this with a CR Touch. Mostly cause I have them, ha. Hoping on the high flow nozzles from E3D coming soon.
The only thing about the Kobra MAX it has a major problem the "Hotend NTC abnormal, please check it and wiring", did this and it is still a large problem, and I love the printers from Anycubic
@@WhereNerdyisCooli am having a heck of a time trying to find a 3D printer with like a 600x600 or so bed that only does like 200m height. I want a large xy, don’t care about z height so much. Any suggestions?
about the features...its running straight up marlin and can enable more features if u are tech savy like for example inputshaper for those ringing effects and it does make lot of difference in quality. copper block,bimetal heatbreak with screw in thermistor with 0.6mm CHT nozzle and temp limit pumped up to 300c does wonders for this device...(heck even elegoos support sent me straight up hand to hand manual/tutorial how to customize it for higher temps and stuff on marlin and that suprised me in good way) also over 1000h printing and auto bedleveling has worked wonders. Its inductive sensor and seems pretty repeatable and accurate ...ofc it leaves bed little high and needs little z offset tune for that contactless leveling. as long as its not thicc glassbed swap it should work fine and even that has gotten mods to get working...Also with all those upgrades (incl bimetal cht and boron nitrate paste) combined would cost like 60bucks and after that i could get it upto 19mm/s whitout problems and 21mm/s whit little more heat than i normally do. I also pumped prints accelerations up way beyond what its original marlin had in and it printed fine in 4-5k accelerations thx to the z rods helping with stability
Okay, so I watched my downloaded version without the streeks accross the screen. Bodacious verbal linguistics dude. Great review. my 1st encounter with direct drive is my Ender 3 S1 printers. Running TPU on PLA settings has totally changed the way I view TPU, and printers. As someone who prints cosplay props, bigger is better. Printing a Darth Vader chest amour piece 400mm wide in 1 go on my CR-10s was a dream. But it is smaller than these mega machines. So your review is on point. Also your point of view. Everyone doesn't see the world the same way. Enjoying your content, hope you can keep it up.
really good review, you just don't see many that print so much before pushing out a video. I have two big 400x400x400 printers and they both have spring steel pei, Hemera direct extruders and SKT 1.4 Turbo boards to fix so many initial problems. So it's good to see these features as standard on this Neptune 3 max printer. Even with the issues I would consider this if I needed a 3rd big format printer. I also really do not like glass beds !!!!!! the Anycubic Chiron glass bed was just awful to use especially with a big flat first layer and it just will not release. My upgrade path for this would be replacing the hotend extruder with something custom perhaps the Orbiter Apogee, it would be a massive performance increase and then Klipper.
I was looking to install a vintage air kit on my challenger and realized the host of the video I found seemed extremely familiar haha. Awesome to see people who share more than a couple of the same hobbies. Love your work man.
I have one and was super impressed with initial prints outta the box. Please make a video for part modifications you do to ramp up speeds for this model.
Hopefully I’ll be able to include the mods in a workshop Vlog video or short, yea. A lot of projects between here and when I’ll have time for it, but I’m sure I’ll post it. May end up on Instagram / TikTok if not here.
@@ThisIsSparta300 my current plan is to install a Project R3D “LGX Revo”, which is a Bondtech LGX Extruder with a E3D Revo hotend mounted to it. CR Touch bed leveling probe. LEDs on the Toolhead to light up the nozzle area. And Klipper firmware so I can run a CAN tool board for the Extruder control. Hoping to use the existing mainboard, but if I have to I’ll swap in an old Bigtreetech board. Trying to do it all with “what I have laying around”.
I'd love to see you upgrade the hotend on it to see what it can do. I want to get the Max, but heard people struggled with printing fast on it, so I'm holding out to see what improvements can be made to it
For a bed slinger of this size the print speed will always be a little slower as its moving a lot and when you add larger prints that weight goes up. But for the $$ its an awesome device. prints well. Only upgrade I will be doing is replacing the hot ens and block so I can be more flexible with the materials I can use.
I would recommend staying away from anything by Anycubic. I bought a Kobra Max and have had nothing but issues. They have sent replacement parts which sometimes takes weeks and I asked to replace the unit and they refused. Now it's been since November 2022 (now augst 2023), and it still does not work and they informed me that they cannot replace the unit because it's out of the time frame allowed. Yet it was because of them that it is out of time as I had asked months ago to just replace it. I'd give them a ZERO on support and taking care of their customers. Horrible and now I have a large boat anchor that doesn't work.
i saw someone who replaced the mainboard and installed klipper alongside the creality sprite pro so whether that improved the flow rate could make the machne better
Marlin has input shaping these days, so not sure why Klipper. I don't think these kind of printers will ever excel in mm/s print speed and high acceleration ;) Sprite hotend does not seem any better than stock MK8. Volcano block and nozzle + bi-metal heatbreak are cheap and take up less than 1cm from printing height (unless Z has some extra to spend on that), though part cooling needs a redesign.
I want one to go along side my ENDER 3 v2 Neo. This would give me capabilities to print, all be it slowly, the larger items that I've had to get creative to fit the smaller build plate. Honestly, I could do with a shorter Z axis. I think 350 would be more than enough for my needs. Honestly, most of my over sized prints are in the XY plane, with a Z height less than 100mm.
The only time I max out Z height on the majority of my printers is during a review, ha. Most of the time I could stand for their Z heights to be half what they are.
Solid video! Glad to see it's about what I was expecting. I was gonna try to compare this to my kobra and cr-6 max, but I ended up selling my Kobra Max recently. Surprisingly the Cr-6 was better than my kobra in nearly every way. Got a few of these on the way to my shop in june/july, I might need to prep for a better hot end.
Hello brother, I want to buy a printer. cr 6 max vs anycubic cobra max I'm torn between these two and I'm thinking a lot and I can't find an answer. Have you used it, please advise which one is more suitable ?)
Yea, there is always trade offs. Being able to print things in a single object is a big deal for sure, but all the rest of the time a big machine is kind of a pain.
Can't wait to get into FDM ,I been doing resin for year now and think the elegoo neptune 3 max would be great starting machine , base on size and what I want to do .
on a fat vase with wide walls, i use a CHT v6 0.8mm clone but I always lower the flow in slicer to 94-96% with 1.2mm thick walls. lower the parts fan cooling as well to something around 48% and you get some big FIRM vases
Three things I wish we could see more of in reviews: 1. Honest and unbiased after sales support and 2. Long term (6-8 month) usage. 3 Longer terms firmware support. Fast speeds and quality prints out of the box are nice but how does it hold up after a good deal of usage? How does the company step in to help if you have a problem even if you have no warranty left? Will you still get reliable firmware updates once they release a new model? Based on my own personal experience with anycubic the kobra 2 max is completely out of the question. I loved my kobra 2 once I got it dialed in. But once I had problems anycubic went silent, zero firmware updates 7 months later (with known bugs in the current version) and parts no longer available from anycubic (mainboard died). Sadly we never seem to see this stuff in these reviews which is why I think they are only 50% complete if there isn't a follow-up 10-12 months later.
I too wish I could see all of that in reviews, but it largely isn't realistic at all. 1) We can never know if a reviewer is getting special treatment from brands on support. I've had some minor confirmation through external sources that our emails get flagged by some companies as priority. So I cannot know whether the support experience I receive would be indicative of general customer experience. Many brands request purchase & serial number information when providing support. I have to just tell them "I didn't buy it, you sent it to me", so even if I skip past some an email detection situation, that flags it too. 2) Long term reviews are what I wish I could do BUT, no one watches them. People watch when a product is new and views only trickle in after that. At the end of the day, if a video doesn't get views it was a MASSIVE waste of time investment. 6 month later review? That means 6 months of using and living with a product. 6 Months worth of cleaning build plates, maintenance, printing, testing, tuning. 6 Months worth of print materials. If you aren't actively printing that entire time you aren't really testing the product, so you are talking dozens if not hundreds of spools of filament. My highest viewed review on any 3D printer has paid me approximately $600 in total since it was posted. I used $450 worth of filament in that review (that I had to buy as I didn't have a filament sponsor). Plus dozens of hours in video production and editing. Would you be able to justify producing a review after 6 months of work for $600? A $100 a month income? That's a failed business before the word go. 3) Firmware updates we simply have no control over. I agree a lot of companies abandon products for the next hot thing too quickly. The Neptune 4 Max I've been complaining to Elegoo about some issues on for months. The last firmware update was 3 months ago. At the end of the day, if you don't employ a dozen people to make video production and testing of products significantly faster, doing reviews that way just makes no sense. And even then, if they aren't paying anything in views, you can't pay that staff. Then you also run into the problem of being out of touch with the consumer side of the market. Plenty of people say reviews where the machine is provided are pointless cause we reviewers must be biased to the manufacturers now. But if we had to buy every single machine we reviewed, then you'd be adding purchase cost to the equation. Making $600 on a review of a $500 product, now the equation is a total disaster. I too would love to see reviews done the way you say, but it isn't realistic in this world. It just does not work out like that. A hot product here and there can do it. Folks will watch a "Bambu Lab X1 6 months later" video, but how many will watch an "Elegoo Neptune 3 Max" review when the 4 Max has already launched? "Why are you reviewing the LAST generation machine? Why did this review take so long?" I'm personally done with reviews. They are a failed business move for me and I have to feed myself at the end of the day. I wish I could produce those reviews, but I cannot do so AND survive.
I found one setting bug , if we have turn on resume print for power loss recovery and if machine is printing some part and from that menu if we turn off resume print (power loss) it will this setting even for next print and during non printing time we check it will show it is on but during print it will not work power loss recovery , so while printing need to check from its menu if power loss resume is on
Really enjoyed the video - so glad I ordered a Neptune after watching your video. Did you change your audio recording hardware? It seems even better than the normal (still good) quality.
Thank you very much. Same audio equipment, I just made a very minor tweak to how I post process the audio and I think it’s complimenting my voice better. Thanks 🙏🏻
I'm kind of hoping you do a review of the CR M4 BY creality. If you want a headache, that's one to give it to you. Auto leveling hit and Miss nizel will randomly choose its height. The bed will just check out on heating, or it'll just say screw it and fail a print it just did. But when it's not being temperamental, it's a gem.
Great review. So basically the hot-end whicj limits the maximum flow rate is the biggest problem. We could upgrade this one with a better hot-end right?
Can you comment more on the single Z stepper controller? I have a dual Z setup on my Ender 5+ and really like the fact that I have independent Z alignment. But I do want a lot of what else is on this or on the Neptune 3 Plus. I have MS DD and all metal hotend on the E5+ and would look at switching to an all metal hotend on this machine as well.
The Max is similar, if not identical to the smaller Neptune systems. The only difference is build volume. It feels a lot of your identified failures are that you are trying to push out material hotter and faster than you would a smaller Neptune units.
That is kind of the point, and I did mention toward the end of the video that they are basically all identical. A big machine really should have a higher flow hotend to support bigger printing. IMO it is kind of a disconnect from the actual use case to just use the same hotend between all of the machines. It works, but only just. The fact that all 3 are basically the same is kind of a problem. There is more to consider than just build volume and they clearly just scaled up the machine.
Do you still consider this one of the better larger scale printers? I have 2 Kobra Max that I have nothing but issues with. I got auto leveling rigged and now hot bed wiring is abnormal. I have a Sovol SV 03 which though ancient... will at least print reliably with manual tinkering. I print to make molds for costumes and need reliable machines.
My Neptune 3 Max ran into an Extruder motor problem and hasn’t been used much since. Up until that it was pretty reliable overall, just had a restrictive hotend. The Neptune 4 Max hasn’t been quite as reliable but isn’t limited by flowrate issues. Sadly you can’t swap the N4Max hotend easily onto the N3Max. If you can get it for a good price the 3 Max is still a good buy I think. Printers of this size are very hit or miss and most often… miss. I think anyway.
how well would autolevel even work on a printer with synchronous z motors? i know my vyper with independant z drivers and endstops, that each z motor runs independently of each other to account for the bed mesh.
The motors just work together to raise and lower the head. It works fine, but they can come out of sync with one another and “forget” where they are. Did you upgrade your Vyper? I know the Kobra Max doesn’t have independent stepper drivers for the Z, I’d be surprised if the Vyper did and the Kobra Max doesn’t.
Honestly i think i will get the printer, your video is great and i want a printer for big build volume, im pretty patient so im fine with it being slow
Great review. Do you have like a patreon where we can pay to watch you destroy giant size prints made on the elegoo 3 max? That big vase is begging to be squeezed
Anyone remember when a glass bed was the bed to have and then heated glass, and now composite beds. 3d printers have come far very fast over the past 10 years
Looking at how close the bed edges are to the uprights I wouldn't be surprised if the limitations on the nozzle travel make the print area closer to 420mm than the 430mm of the print surface
I’ve printed all the way up to (and off) the edge of the bed in my early testing. I’ve adjusted the bed dimensions to 426x426 in my slicer profile to keep just off the edge, but the machine can reach it.
No, I parted with this machine before any hotend upgrades became available. The Neptune 4 Max has a much better hotend on it but its firmware is buggy in comparison.
I finished off 11 kg, but some of those had been started already. Other spools I didn’t finish off but did use on it. So I honestly have no idea. A few hundred dollars worth for certain. Reviews are getting harder and harder to justify. 😬
@@MandicReally haha i can see indeed that i becomes a quite expensive review, but cool you went this route. It showed things you normally dont see in a review and in print results. Loved the huge hotend shame you showed it so short!
Can the hot end be upgraded to something g that can do 300? Could you upgrade the auto bed leveling? I want to do full size cosplay helmets in one go. What would you recommend for that? Budget is 500-1000. Sorry this would be my first Filament printer.
It could be but you really shouldn’t need to print that hot for cosplay stuff. Nylon cosplay parts is a bit overkill. Maybe premium but uncommon. Any material that requires that hot of a hotend is also gonna require an enclosed build volume. Enclosing such a big machine won’t be fun. That said, yea it could get a bimetallic heat break & maybe a hotter heater cartridge to reach those temps. I usually HIGHLY recommend starting smaller. Bigger machines = bigger problems and learning curves. Having basics down on a smaller machine will make life easier. Fitting cosplay helmets in a single piece won’t really require a 400mm build volume unless it’s the Wolverine helmet. The Qidi X-Max 3 I featured in a recent video is fast, can print high temp materials out of the box, and has a 325mm build volume. Try opening some helmet designs in a slicer and see what size machine you really need.
@@MandicReally I just want the option for other things. Might as well have the option. As helmets won’t be the only thing I print. I resin print a bunch of parts for work that are no longer made by the manufacturer
@@MandicReally my god man why didn’t I think to actually open the slicer and check the sizes. It’s a miracle people trust me to do anything right at work. 🤦🏼
@@jessemarshall7176 I always recommend playing around in Slicer to folks getting started. You will have to use it anyway & it is free. Worth just trying it out and seeing. For production of parts for real world use and a decent build volume, the new Qidi X-Max 3 is great. I just featured it in a recent video: ua-cam.com/video/gTiHNeZQ7cg/v-deo.html That video was sponsored but I genuinely like it and thing it is a good option for "engineering" type work as it has a heated enclosed build volume & good hotend. It is the upper end of your budget though, so it is hard to recommend as a starter machine since it is such an investment. It isn't difficult to use I just hesitate to recommend more expensive starting places. s.zbanx.com/r/W21SmTsPMgML (affiliate link)
Great review! The flow rate issue is....annoying doesn't seem strong enough but upsetting seems overly dramatic. I could swear that CHT nozzles in a Mk8/V6-style hot end could push flow rates up towards 15-20 mm3/s, which makes 12 seem overly anemic. Definitely seems like this printer is begging to have a Volcano hot end upgrade, even if only to print at normal speeds with giant nozzles.
It costs 7 times as much has this and unless you’ve got a warehouse / garage to put it in, won’t fit in your house. Tronxy has a track record of “good ideas, terrible execution”. Even if they offered to send me one, I’d have trouble making space in my studio for it and I’m blessed with a lot more space than most folks.
I realize Elegoo is trying to hit a price point here but this printer seems like one massive compromise. Massive being the operative word. The Z banding and ringing were pretty noticeable even at low speeds. POM wheels on V-slot extrusions aren't the best to begin with but putting them on a bed that heavy is a recipe for premature wear and flat spots, linear rails would be ideal. The PTFE lined hotend is absurd on a $500 printer. Sure, most people are probably going to be printing with PLA on these machines but it would be nice to have the option to print at higher temps without cheap PFTE off gassing and clogging. I know this is harsh but IMHO you're much better off getting yourself two smaller bed slingers for the same price, but I guess this printer isn't for me. I appreciate the video Alan, keep up the fine work!
They are very similar but different enough that I don't see it working. The extruder bodies are just different enough, and the blower fan cooling for the heatsink on the Sprite Pro would interfere with the mounting bracket on the Neptune 3 Max. Along with that, the flowrate on the Sprite Pro is only a marginal improvement and locks you in to the Creality nozzle design, limiting options. IMO it isn't a good "upgrade". I'll try and look at better options for other directions.
Would you say this is a good beginner printer because I want to get one but don’t know what to buy My budget is between 600-700 so which one would you recommend?
I would never recommend such a large machine as a first printer. Bigger machines = bigger problems. That said, the basics of the design are good for a beginner and its smaller siblings I would recommend. It would help to know what your goals are. For a much lower price than your max budget there is the Neptune 3 Pro: tinyurl.com/Neptune3Pros or the Neptune 3 Plus: tinyurl.com/Neptune3Plus If you are ok spending more, the Bambu Labs printers are much faster, generally produce better print quality, and can be a little more user friendly. Something like: Bambu P1P: tinyurl.com/BambuLabP1P Bambu P1S: tinyurl.com/BambuP1S The Bambu machines aren't very upgradable or modifiable, but they just work. All links are Affiliate links by the way.
Hello, please help me. I am very confused. Which of these printers is more suitable and healthy? Which one would you recommend me to buy? 🥺🙏🏻 Creality Cr 6 Max AnyCubic Kobra Max AnyCubic Chiron Elegoo Neptune 3 Max
Of those, my recommendation is the Neptune 3 Max. The Chiron is very out of date. The Kobra Max lacks direct drive and suffers for it. The CR6 Max is too expensive and lacks direct drive. Neptune 3 Max isn’t perfect but I think it is the best of that bunch. tinyurl.com/Neptune3Max (affiliate link)
Without continuity testing every circuit on the Kobra Max, it would be next to impossible to say. And even if you could, you’d be left with a hotend that’s got 40% the flowrate of the original. Some aftermarket option would be a better choice I’d think.
@@MandicReally I appreciate the comment and the review. I haven't had as much luck with the Max (instead of high flow, its more of a no flow) so im trying to figure out an alternative and hopefully a a direct drive solution.
@@boriskrivitsky3142 look for Direct Drive conversions for the Anycubic Vyper. Someone has to have designed a good option for that, and the Kobra Max is just a big Vyper.
Quality would depend heavily on the nozzle, fans, and other parts, but if you are looking to print large things like helmets it is way better to print it in a single print because printing it in separate pieces it increases the risk of the parts being just slightly different and not going together properly (just temperature changes in the room can make the parts slightly different sizes) so if you are planning to print cosplay go for big printers
For a “one size fits all” I don’t disagree. I think smaller machines make more sense for day to day use (sub 300mm) but having extra room when you need it is great.
You do not need dome supports for helmets. They self support. 1.4kg of filament is insane. I did my mando helmet with a 0.4mm nozzle in 36 hours and only used 580 grams of filament.
a split signal fromone driver to two Z-Axis motors CAN,indeed, go out of sync, as witnessed by my alfawise U20 One. The use of a syncro belt is used for that very reason. Aprt of the reason for dual Z-Axis motors going out of sync is due, at least in part, to a less than perfectly squared gantry (roller plates to the aluminum profile). Dual stepper drivers also require extra code. Since the voltage is adjustable and, theoretically, the motors are identical, the same pulse to each from a single driver has zero disadvantage over dual drivers. ZERO!
Each time they open it up they take preorders and ship 3-6 weeks later. I don’t know if it’s a better system than just opening up preorders indefinitely or not. I guess I appreciate that they aren’t just raking in money and leaving people hanging.
I don't have a Plus to compare but I would expect the Plus to be slightly better. Shorter belts and less bed mass to move around SHOULD mean better quality. That is purely in theory though.
There really is no need for dual stepper drivers on a printer like this. They are connected with a belt at the top, so there is no point in adding a 2nd z stepper driver when they are in sync with each other.
You made it seem you made all the very large scale prints on this machine. Clearly at 6:27 you can see the nozzle being printed on the BambuLab X1C? A tad misleading to end users.
The entire hotend minus the nozzle can cup was printed on the Neptune. Thus why when I showed it and said as much the “nozzle” wasn’t on the hotend and why I never showed the nozzle print as an example. It’s only there at all to complete the look of the hotend print. The nozzle design has existed for almost a year, so it’s really a separate thing. I mentioned that in a clip I cut out, but when this video was close to 30 minutes at one point, things had to go.
I prefer speed than large prints. Think of all those fails with how much money and time was lost. This guy knows what he is doing and the prints still failed. Just make sure you before you buy this thing you can afford the filament budget.
I mean I3 Cartesian machines are all pretty similar in a lot of ways. This does have 120mm more build volume on X/Y axis at over $200 less money. You don’t get the Creality Cloud setup, but that’s honestly a pro to me.
STOCK ALERT: Neptune 3 Max will be back in stock in the US at 6PM PST (9PM EST) tonight (May 15th, 2023): tinyurl.com/Neptune3Max (affiliate link)
they are sold out again any idea when the next time they will be back in stock?
@@dattisha27 Tbh I think in a week
@@DCFlights-fn9ey they became available on the 7th and they ship on the 28th I got my order in thanks
I just got my Neptune 3 Max on Wednesday. I severely underestimated its size and am now rearranging my entire office to accommodate it. It's is both a thing of beauty, and also a beast. I should be getting it up and running today and am very excited to do so.
Thanks for the great review! I had been going back and forth between the Neptune 3 Max and the Kobra Max for weeks and almost bought the Kobra since the Neptune 3 was generally out of stock. I'm glad I waited and checked Elegoo's site directly to order.
As a quick follow up, I LOVE THIS PRINTER. It has been a champ with everything I've thrown at it (including PETG which both my Creality machines ran away crying against).
@@hausofhomeauxdo you prefer this printer over Kobra max? I was thinking max but the poor detail on his vid, plus no auto pause
Thank you for a great run down on that machine. So many “review videos” don’t even show it printing! I wondered how weak that heater cartridge was for larger nozzles and no one could answer that. That machine looks like a great candidate for a Bondtech / Slice DDX upgrade to really push big beads. And replace that sensor with a BL Touch. Great video.
I think I’m gonna end up putting the Bondtech / Revo combo I have on this with a CR Touch. Mostly cause I have them, ha. Hoping on the high flow nozzles from E3D coming soon.
@@MandicReally I print big too. It’s what I do at work too. You’ve probably seen the famous 3D printed boat. 🤓
yeah
The only thing about the Kobra MAX it has a major problem the "Hotend NTC abnormal, please check it and wiring", did this and it is still a large problem, and I love the printers from Anycubic
@@WhereNerdyisCooli am having a heck of a time trying to find a 3D printer with like a 600x600 or so bed that only does like 200m height. I want a large xy, don’t care about z height so much. Any suggestions?
about the features...its running straight up marlin and can enable more features if u are tech savy like for example inputshaper for those ringing effects and it does make lot of difference in quality. copper block,bimetal heatbreak with screw in thermistor with 0.6mm CHT nozzle and temp limit pumped up to 300c does wonders for this device...(heck even elegoos support sent me straight up hand to hand manual/tutorial how to customize it for higher temps and stuff on marlin and that suprised me in good way) also over 1000h printing and auto bedleveling has worked wonders. Its inductive sensor and seems pretty repeatable and accurate ...ofc it leaves bed little high and needs little z offset tune for that contactless leveling. as long as its not thicc glassbed swap it should work fine and even that has gotten mods to get working...Also with all those upgrades (incl bimetal cht and boron nitrate paste) combined would cost like 60bucks and after that i could get it upto 19mm/s whitout problems and 21mm/s whit little more heat than i normally do. I also pumped prints accelerations up way beyond what its original marlin had in and it printed fine in 4-5k accelerations thx to the z rods helping with stability
Only had time to watch 10 Mins right now but I'm impressed by your video quality here. Great video. Hope to finish it this evening
Came for your Bambu vids, stayed for the rest of your content. Great videos, love your style!
Okay, so I watched my downloaded version without the streeks accross the screen. Bodacious verbal linguistics dude.
Great review.
my 1st encounter with direct drive is my Ender 3 S1 printers. Running TPU on PLA settings has totally changed the way I view TPU, and printers.
As someone who prints cosplay props, bigger is better. Printing a Darth Vader chest amour piece 400mm wide in 1 go on my CR-10s was a dream. But it is smaller than these mega machines.
So your review is on point. Also your point of view. Everyone doesn't see the world the same way.
Enjoying your content, hope you can keep it up.
really good review, you just don't see many that print so much before pushing out a video. I have two big 400x400x400 printers and they both have spring steel pei, Hemera direct extruders and SKT 1.4 Turbo boards to fix so many initial problems. So it's good to see these features as standard on this Neptune 3 max printer. Even with the issues I would consider this if I needed a 3rd big format printer. I also really do not like glass beds !!!!!! the Anycubic Chiron glass bed was just awful to use especially with a big flat first layer and it just will not release. My upgrade path for this would be replacing the hotend extruder with something custom perhaps the Orbiter Apogee, it would be a massive performance increase and then Klipper.
And Now we need a video vs the neptune 4 max
I'm a simple man. I see a Mandic Really video, I watch and upvote.
Thank You for the in depth review.
Caught this big boy on a sale so now I am just waitin for it
I was looking to install a vintage air kit on my challenger and realized the host of the video I found seemed extremely familiar haha. Awesome to see people who share more than a couple of the same hobbies. Love your work man.
Thanks a lot, just bought same printer and yes, same problem with cable:)) thanks for share link:::))
I have one and was super impressed with initial prints outta the box. Please make a video for part modifications you do to ramp up speeds for this model.
Would love to see some upgrade options for the hotend and the probe - how about some short about it? Like the review btw!
Hopefully I’ll be able to include the mods in a workshop Vlog video or short, yea. A lot of projects between here and when I’ll have time for it, but I’m sure I’ll post it. May end up on Instagram / TikTok if not here.
@@MandicReallycan you type them here for now? 😇
@@ThisIsSparta300 my current plan is to install a Project R3D “LGX Revo”, which is a Bondtech LGX Extruder with a E3D Revo hotend mounted to it. CR Touch bed leveling probe. LEDs on the Toolhead to light up the nozzle area. And Klipper firmware so I can run a CAN tool board for the Extruder control. Hoping to use the existing mainboard, but if I have to I’ll swap in an old Bigtreetech board. Trying to do it all with “what I have laying around”.
@@MandicReally 😯 doooope
I'd love to see you upgrade the hotend on it to see what it can do. I want to get the Max, but heard people struggled with printing fast on it, so I'm holding out to see what improvements can be made to it
dont get the max quality is beyond poor i have three of them biggest misstake i ever made
@@djjokerjaxx Bollix. The quality is fantastic. Love mine. Super glad I bought it.
For a bed slinger of this size the print speed will always be a little slower as its moving a lot and when you add larger prints that weight goes up. But for the $$ its an awesome device. prints well. Only upgrade I will be doing is replacing the hot ens and block so I can be more flexible with the materials I can use.
I would recommend staying away from anything by Anycubic. I bought a Kobra Max and have had nothing but issues. They have sent replacement parts which sometimes takes weeks and I asked to replace the unit and they refused. Now it's been since November 2022 (now augst 2023), and it still does not work and they informed me that they cannot replace the unit because it's out of the time frame allowed. Yet it was because of them that it is out of time as I had asked months ago to just replace it. I'd give them a ZERO on support and taking care of their customers. Horrible and now I have a large boat anchor that doesn't work.
An amazing product review. Great break downs and analysis!
Much appreciated. Reviews are a lot to cram in and I can’t help but overload the details, so I’m glad it’s appreciated.
Thanks for that awesome review!
Thank you, glad it’s appreciated.
Please show us the upgrades on the hot end in the future
Yes this
Thanks for the video. I would be interested in seeing a video on how to print large prints: what settings to change, etc. Thanks!
i saw someone who replaced the mainboard and installed klipper alongside the creality sprite pro so whether that improved the flow rate could make the machne better
The stock board can run Klipper I’m fairly sure. I found a Config using it anyway. I’m likely gonna do that when I modify it.
@@MandicReally It can, but makes most sense when you first get your hotend pumping out more goo methinks?
Marlin has input shaping these days, so not sure why Klipper. I don't think these kind of printers will ever excel in mm/s print speed and high acceleration ;)
Sprite hotend does not seem any better than stock MK8. Volcano block and nozzle + bi-metal heatbreak are cheap and take up less than 1cm from printing height (unless Z has some extra to spend on that), though part cooling needs a redesign.
@@MandicReally it can run klipper i have it on my standard 3 pro with the same board
I want one to go along side my ENDER 3 v2 Neo. This would give me capabilities to print, all be it slowly, the larger items that I've had to get creative to fit the smaller build plate. Honestly, I could do with a shorter Z axis. I think 350 would be more than enough for my needs. Honestly, most of my over sized prints are in the XY plane, with a Z height less than 100mm.
The only time I max out Z height on the majority of my printers is during a review, ha. Most of the time I could stand for their Z heights to be half what they are.
Solid video! Glad to see it's about what I was expecting. I was gonna try to compare this to my kobra and cr-6 max, but I ended up selling my Kobra Max recently. Surprisingly the Cr-6 was better than my kobra in nearly every way. Got a few of these on the way to my shop in june/july, I might need to prep for a better hot end.
Hello brother, I want to buy a printer. cr 6 max vs anycubic cobra max I'm torn between these two and I'm thinking a lot and I can't find an answer. Have you used it, please advise which one is more suitable ?)
I wish I had that machine for doing custom fuel tanks and helmets for my projects. I'll use my Prusa but it will require complex cutting ang gluing.
Yea, there is always trade offs. Being able to print things in a single object is a big deal for sure, but all the rest of the time a big machine is kind of a pain.
Getting my Pro delivered tmrw!! So excited!
Can't wait to get into FDM ,I been doing resin for year now and think the elegoo neptune 3 max would be great starting machine , base on size and what I want to do .
6:25 seems like Bambu is printing nozzle not Elegoo Neptune :)
Isn't the screw printed on Bamboo Lab? Visible at the back while printing a bit earlier? :)
Awesome video! Keep us updated to your results of tinkering with it!
that was a great review video, thanks!
@mandicreally thank you so much for the free bracket file! Super helpful!
on a fat vase with wide walls, i use a CHT v6 0.8mm clone but I always lower the flow in slicer to 94-96% with 1.2mm thick walls. lower the parts fan cooling as well to something around 48% and you get some big FIRM vases
Three things I wish we could see more of in reviews: 1. Honest and unbiased after sales support and 2. Long term (6-8 month) usage. 3 Longer terms firmware support. Fast speeds and quality prints out of the box are nice but how does it hold up after a good deal of usage? How does the company step in to help if you have a problem even if you have no warranty left? Will you still get reliable firmware updates once they release a new model? Based on my own personal experience with anycubic the kobra 2 max is completely out of the question. I loved my kobra 2 once I got it dialed in. But once I had problems anycubic went silent, zero firmware updates 7 months later (with known bugs in the current version) and parts no longer available from anycubic (mainboard died). Sadly we never seem to see this stuff in these reviews which is why I think they are only 50% complete if there isn't a follow-up 10-12 months later.
I too wish I could see all of that in reviews, but it largely isn't realistic at all.
1) We can never know if a reviewer is getting special treatment from brands on support. I've had some minor confirmation through external sources that our emails get flagged by some companies as priority. So I cannot know whether the support experience I receive would be indicative of general customer experience. Many brands request purchase & serial number information when providing support. I have to just tell them "I didn't buy it, you sent it to me", so even if I skip past some an email detection situation, that flags it too.
2) Long term reviews are what I wish I could do BUT, no one watches them. People watch when a product is new and views only trickle in after that. At the end of the day, if a video doesn't get views it was a MASSIVE waste of time investment. 6 month later review? That means 6 months of using and living with a product. 6 Months worth of cleaning build plates, maintenance, printing, testing, tuning. 6 Months worth of print materials. If you aren't actively printing that entire time you aren't really testing the product, so you are talking dozens if not hundreds of spools of filament. My highest viewed review on any 3D printer has paid me approximately $600 in total since it was posted. I used $450 worth of filament in that review (that I had to buy as I didn't have a filament sponsor). Plus dozens of hours in video production and editing. Would you be able to justify producing a review after 6 months of work for $600? A $100 a month income? That's a failed business before the word go.
3) Firmware updates we simply have no control over. I agree a lot of companies abandon products for the next hot thing too quickly. The Neptune 4 Max I've been complaining to Elegoo about some issues on for months. The last firmware update was 3 months ago.
At the end of the day, if you don't employ a dozen people to make video production and testing of products significantly faster, doing reviews that way just makes no sense. And even then, if they aren't paying anything in views, you can't pay that staff. Then you also run into the problem of being out of touch with the consumer side of the market. Plenty of people say reviews where the machine is provided are pointless cause we reviewers must be biased to the manufacturers now. But if we had to buy every single machine we reviewed, then you'd be adding purchase cost to the equation. Making $600 on a review of a $500 product, now the equation is a total disaster.
I too would love to see reviews done the way you say, but it isn't realistic in this world. It just does not work out like that. A hot product here and there can do it. Folks will watch a "Bambu Lab X1 6 months later" video, but how many will watch an "Elegoo Neptune 3 Max" review when the 4 Max has already launched? "Why are you reviewing the LAST generation machine? Why did this review take so long?"
I'm personally done with reviews. They are a failed business move for me and I have to feed myself at the end of the day. I wish I could produce those reviews, but I cannot do so AND survive.
I found one setting bug , if we have turn on resume print for power loss recovery and if machine is printing some part and from that menu if we turn off resume print (power loss) it will this setting even for next print and during non printing time we check it will show it is on but during print it will not work power loss recovery , so while printing need to check from its menu if power loss resume is on
Really enjoyed the video - so glad I ordered a Neptune after watching your video. Did you change your audio recording hardware? It seems even better than the normal (still good) quality.
Thank you very much. Same audio equipment, I just made a very minor tweak to how I post process the audio and I think it’s complimenting my voice better. Thanks 🙏🏻
I think a bimetallic heartbreak can increase the melt zone length - so better flow..?
I'm kind of hoping you do a review of the CR M4 BY creality. If you want a headache, that's one to give it to you. Auto leveling hit and Miss nizel will randomly choose its height. The bed will just check out on heating, or it'll just say screw it and fail a print it just did. But when it's not being temperamental, it's a gem.
bought a neptune 3 max from your link based on your review
Great review. So basically the hot-end whicj limits the maximum flow rate is the biggest problem. We could upgrade this one with a better hot-end right?
Can you comment more on the single Z stepper controller? I have a dual Z setup on my Ender 5+ and really like the fact that I have independent Z alignment. But I do want a lot of what else is on this or on the Neptune 3 Plus. I have MS DD and all metal hotend on the E5+ and would look at switching to an all metal hotend on this machine as well.
The Max is similar, if not identical to the smaller Neptune systems. The only difference is build volume. It feels a lot of your identified failures are that you are trying to push out material hotter and faster than you would a smaller Neptune units.
That is kind of the point, and I did mention toward the end of the video that they are basically all identical.
A big machine really should have a higher flow hotend to support bigger printing. IMO it is kind of a disconnect from the actual use case to just use the same hotend between all of the machines. It works, but only just. The fact that all 3 are basically the same is kind of a problem. There is more to consider than just build volume and they clearly just scaled up the machine.
Do you still consider this one of the better larger scale printers? I have 2 Kobra Max that I have nothing but issues with. I got auto leveling rigged and now hot bed wiring is abnormal. I have a Sovol SV 03 which though ancient... will at least print reliably with manual tinkering. I print to make molds for costumes and need reliable machines.
My Neptune 3 Max ran into an Extruder motor problem and hasn’t been used much since. Up until that it was pretty reliable overall, just had a restrictive hotend. The Neptune 4 Max hasn’t been quite as reliable but isn’t limited by flowrate issues. Sadly you can’t swap the N4Max hotend easily onto the N3Max. If you can get it for a good price the 3 Max is still a good buy I think. Printers of this size are very hit or miss and most often… miss. I think anyway.
how well would autolevel even work on a printer with synchronous z motors?
i know my vyper with independant z drivers and endstops, that each z motor runs independently of each other to account for the bed mesh.
The motors just work together to raise and lower the head. It works fine, but they can come out of sync with one another and “forget” where they are.
Did you upgrade your Vyper? I know the Kobra Max doesn’t have independent stepper drivers for the Z, I’d be surprised if the Vyper did and the Kobra Max doesn’t.
What slicer is recommended with the Neptune 3?
Some one has been vigorously viewing void star labs. Great video keep it up.
Would you recommend this for a beginner and if not what would be best? I do want to print large items.
Nice review!
Appreciate the kind words. 👏🏻
How would this fair for miniature terrain? And how well does this fair on smaller detailed prints for miniatures as well?
Honestly i think i will get the printer, your video is great and i want a printer for big build volume, im pretty patient so im fine with it being slow
I like the Extruder Print. That silk is Beautiful.
Great video! What 0.6 muzzle can you recommend?
I've never had a 3d printer with v-wheels so how well would these hold up on the Neptune 3?
Great review. Do you have like a patreon where we can pay to watch you destroy giant size prints made on the elegoo 3 max? That big vase is begging to be squeezed
Hahahaha That does sound like a good Patron exclusive. I definitely don’t need two of these big buckets floating around…
Hey love the vid. Do you have recommendations for a good fdm, large plate for a small printing business. Printing 24/7. Thanks
Anyone remember when a glass bed was the bed to have and then heated glass, and now composite beds. 3d printers have come far very fast over the past 10 years
I have it, it’s amazing! Love using it.
Looking at how close the bed edges are to the uprights I wouldn't be surprised if the limitations on the nozzle travel make the print area closer to 420mm than the 430mm of the print surface
I’ve printed all the way up to (and off) the edge of the bed in my early testing. I’ve adjusted the bed dimensions to 426x426 in my slicer profile to keep just off the edge, but the machine can reach it.
Id like to see a fully printed frame like the rolohauns rook but all in one part
Did you upgrade the hot end. Do you have a video
No, I parted with this machine before any hotend upgrades became available. The Neptune 4 Max has a much better hotend on it but its firmware is buggy in comparison.
i produce carbon fiber car parts and aero,, and i need big print volume,, reliable big preformance, would this be the best low pricerange big printer?
I'm waiting for mine to come 19 of may 😂 . And this is my first printer
How many kg off filament did you spend this episode?
I finished off 11 kg, but some of those had been started already. Other spools I didn’t finish off but did use on it. So I honestly have no idea. A few hundred dollars worth for certain. Reviews are getting harder and harder to justify. 😬
@@MandicReally haha i can see indeed that i becomes a quite expensive review, but cool you went this route. It showed things you normally dont see in a review and in print results. Loved the huge hotend shame you showed it so short!
Been trying to get ahold of one, no availability for a while so i grabbed the kobra max
Yea the availability is a real negative. I hope Elegoo turns that around. I guess I appreciate that they aren’t overselling but still.
Can the hot end be upgraded to something g that can do 300? Could you upgrade the auto bed leveling?
I want to do full size cosplay helmets in one go. What would you recommend for that? Budget is 500-1000. Sorry this would be my first Filament printer.
It could be but you really shouldn’t need to print that hot for cosplay stuff. Nylon cosplay parts is a bit overkill. Maybe premium but uncommon. Any material that requires that hot of a hotend is also gonna require an enclosed build volume. Enclosing such a big machine won’t be fun. That said, yea it could get a bimetallic heat break & maybe a hotter heater cartridge to reach those temps.
I usually HIGHLY recommend starting smaller. Bigger machines = bigger problems and learning curves. Having basics down on a smaller machine will make life easier.
Fitting cosplay helmets in a single piece won’t really require a 400mm build volume unless it’s the Wolverine helmet. The Qidi X-Max 3 I featured in a recent video is fast, can print high temp materials out of the box, and has a 325mm build volume. Try opening some helmet designs in a slicer and see what size machine you really need.
@@MandicReally I just want the option for other things. Might as well have the option. As helmets won’t be the only thing I print. I resin print a bunch of parts for work that are no longer made by the manufacturer
@@MandicReally my god man why didn’t I think to actually open the slicer and check the sizes. It’s a miracle people trust me to do anything right at work. 🤦🏼
@@jessemarshall7176 I always recommend playing around in Slicer to folks getting started. You will have to use it anyway & it is free. Worth just trying it out and seeing.
For production of parts for real world use and a decent build volume, the new Qidi X-Max 3 is great. I just featured it in a recent video: ua-cam.com/video/gTiHNeZQ7cg/v-deo.html
That video was sponsored but I genuinely like it and thing it is a good option for "engineering" type work as it has a heated enclosed build volume & good hotend.
It is the upper end of your budget though, so it is hard to recommend as a starter machine since it is such an investment. It isn't difficult to use I just hesitate to recommend more expensive starting places. s.zbanx.com/r/W21SmTsPMgML (affiliate link)
@@MandicReally just watched the video and I think I’m going to go with the qidi. Now it’s actually under budget by 1 whole dollar!
Great review! The flow rate issue is....annoying doesn't seem strong enough but upsetting seems overly dramatic. I could swear that CHT nozzles in a Mk8/V6-style hot end could push flow rates up towards 15-20 mm3/s, which makes 12 seem overly anemic. Definitely seems like this printer is begging to have a Volcano hot end upgrade, even if only to print at normal speeds with giant nozzles.
Has elegoo fixed these issues yet ?
what about Tronxy veho 1000-16?
It costs 7 times as much has this and unless you’ve got a warehouse / garage to put it in, won’t fit in your house. Tronxy has a track record of “good ideas, terrible execution”. Even if they offered to send me one, I’d have trouble making space in my studio for it and I’m blessed with a lot more space than most folks.
I allready bought it and put in my artstudio and allready have problem with it)))@@MandicReally
I'm holding out for the Neptune 4 Pro Max. That's the printer I really want... hopefully with WiFi.
They new ones are being sent with full metal hot end throat….just got mine
im whait for my 3 max , and like BIG nozzles too! thanks!
i wonder when there will be a Neptune 4 Max
Probably after they release a neptune 4 pro
I realize Elegoo is trying to hit a price point here but this printer seems like one massive compromise. Massive being the operative word. The Z banding and ringing were pretty noticeable even at low speeds. POM wheels on V-slot extrusions aren't the best to begin with but putting them on a bed that heavy is a recipe for premature wear and flat spots, linear rails would be ideal. The PTFE lined hotend is absurd on a $500 printer. Sure, most people are probably going to be printing with PLA on these machines but it would be nice to have the option to print at higher temps without cheap PFTE off gassing and clogging. I know this is harsh but IMHO you're much better off getting yourself two smaller bed slingers for the same price, but I guess this printer isn't for me. I appreciate the video Alan, keep up the fine work!
Would a sprite pro work with the neptune 3 max?
They are very similar but different enough that I don't see it working. The extruder bodies are just different enough, and the blower fan cooling for the heatsink on the Sprite Pro would interfere with the mounting bracket on the Neptune 3 Max. Along with that, the flowrate on the Sprite Pro is only a marginal improvement and locks you in to the Creality nozzle design, limiting options. IMO it isn't a good "upgrade". I'll try and look at better options for other directions.
Would you say this is a good beginner printer because I want to get one but don’t know what to buy My budget is between 600-700 so which one would you recommend?
I would never recommend such a large machine as a first printer. Bigger machines = bigger problems. That said, the basics of the design are good for a beginner and its smaller siblings I would recommend. It would help to know what your goals are.
For a much lower price than your max budget there is the Neptune 3 Pro: tinyurl.com/Neptune3Pros
or the Neptune 3 Plus: tinyurl.com/Neptune3Plus
If you are ok spending more, the Bambu Labs printers are much faster, generally produce better print quality, and can be a little more user friendly. Something like:
Bambu P1P: tinyurl.com/BambuLabP1P
Bambu P1S: tinyurl.com/BambuP1S
The Bambu machines aren't very upgradable or modifiable, but they just work.
All links are Affiliate links by the way.
Hello, please help me. I am very confused. Which of these printers is more suitable and healthy? Which one would you recommend me to buy? 🥺🙏🏻
Creality Cr 6 Max
AnyCubic Kobra Max
AnyCubic Chiron
Elegoo Neptune 3 Max
Of those, my recommendation is the Neptune 3 Max. The Chiron is very out of date. The Kobra Max lacks direct drive and suffers for it. The CR6 Max is too expensive and lacks direct drive. Neptune 3 Max isn’t perfect but I think it is the best of that bunch. tinyurl.com/Neptune3Max (affiliate link)
here is question. Can a neptune 3 max tool head be installed on the kobra max ?
Without continuity testing every circuit on the Kobra Max, it would be next to impossible to say. And even if you could, you’d be left with a hotend that’s got 40% the flowrate of the original. Some aftermarket option would be a better choice I’d think.
@@MandicReally I appreciate the comment and the review. I haven't had as much luck with the Max (instead of high flow, its more of a no flow) so im trying to figure out an alternative and hopefully a a direct drive solution.
@@boriskrivitsky3142 look for Direct Drive conversions for the Anycubic Vyper. Someone has to have designed a good option for that, and the Kobra Max is just a big Vyper.
The biggest problem, POM wheels I wish it was better, is the high corrosion rate wheels.
Use for a full month, the result is disastrous
Nice review.
Thank you very much!
Hahahahaha well worth the wait till the end.
I should start including outtakes more… This episode sure generated it’s fair share of them. 🤣
Looks like a wonderful machine. Been trying to get one for what feels like forever but it's damn bear impossible.
Pre-orders are currently open actually: tinyurl.com/Neptune3Max (affiliate link)
They’ve been available for the last couple of days.
@@MandicReally brilliant. Thanks for the pointer
if you want one one they are in stock now
does volume of 3d printer matter to quality?
Quality would depend heavily on the nozzle, fans, and other parts, but if you are looking to print large things like helmets it is way better to print it in a single print because printing it in separate pieces it increases the risk of the parts being just slightly different and not going together properly (just temperature changes in the room can make the parts slightly different sizes) so if you are planning to print cosplay go for big printers
I think the best bed dimension is 30x30 it is at least for me the sweet spot :)
For a “one size fits all” I don’t disagree. I think smaller machines make more sense for day to day use (sub 300mm) but having extra room when you need it is great.
You do not need dome supports for helmets. They self support. 1.4kg of filament is insane. I did my mando helmet with a 0.4mm nozzle in 36 hours and only used 580 grams of filament.
Not bad looking printer it would be nice to have for doing rc trucks bodys
a split signal fromone driver to two Z-Axis motors CAN,indeed, go out of sync, as witnessed by my alfawise U20 One. The use of a syncro belt is used for that very reason.
Aprt of the reason for dual Z-Axis motors going out of sync is due, at least in part, to a less than perfectly squared gantry (roller plates to the aluminum profile).
Dual stepper drivers also require extra code. Since the voltage is adjustable and, theoretically, the motors are identical, the same pulse to each from a single driver has zero disadvantage over dual drivers. ZERO!
be nice they had a waiting list
Each time they open it up they take preorders and ship 3-6 weeks later. I don’t know if it’s a better system than just opening up preorders indefinitely or not. I guess I appreciate that they aren’t just raking in money and leaving people hanging.
which one is better for quality print:
1.Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus
2.Elegoo Neptune 3 Max
Volume doesn't matter for me. I need only quality 3d printer
I don't have a Plus to compare but I would expect the Plus to be slightly better. Shorter belts and less bed mass to move around SHOULD mean better quality. That is purely in theory though.
There really is no need for dual stepper drivers on a printer like this. They are connected with a belt at the top, so there is no point in adding a 2nd z stepper driver when they are in sync with each other.
You made it seem you made all the very large scale prints on this machine. Clearly at 6:27 you can see the nozzle being printed on the BambuLab X1C? A tad misleading to end users.
The entire hotend minus the nozzle can cup was printed on the Neptune. Thus why when I showed it and said as much the “nozzle” wasn’t on the hotend and why I never showed the nozzle print as an example. It’s only there at all to complete the look of the hotend print. The nozzle design has existed for almost a year, so it’s really a separate thing. I mentioned that in a clip I cut out, but when this video was close to 30 minutes at one point, things had to go.
That hot end print lmao😂
Kobra Max or Neptune 3 max?
14:51
I see Chat GPT is writing your scripts again
I prefer speed than large prints. Think of all those fails with how much money and time was lost. This guy knows what he is doing and the prints still failed. Just make sure you before you buy this thing you can afford the filament budget.
I have a question if sombody will give it to me for 100$ shoud i take it, the only condicion he sais is to make the pieces of máster chief suit
@MandicReady
@MandyReally
@MandicReally
@MandicReally
Cheers!
Seems like a cr-10 smart clone. I was watching and it was like you were talking about the cr-10 smart.
I mean I3 Cartesian machines are all pretty similar in a lot of ways. This does have 120mm more build volume on X/Y axis at over $200 less money. You don’t get the Creality Cloud setup, but that’s honestly a pro to me.
If u put the work in the cosplay stuff you did shouldn’t have taken half that amount of filament I did a full Batman costume with just one roll
Thanks.