Trade school teaches it in Units. I personally always prefered totals. So glad you covered both for everyone. Height above plate (2/3rd rule...and its limitations of steep roofs) and bearing length (minimums / don't extend cut beyond plate / its relation to height above plate) would be a great way to progress this as you add projections. Great content as usual, thanks bud!
I find both methods helpful in different scenarios. It also opens the door to see cross compatibility among the trades math concepts. I will definitely be getting into the WAP (wood above plate) and bearing length in upcoming videos.
you don't need a framing square or speed square to cut commons say you have and 8'' rise.. that is 33 .69degrees take a chop saw and cut it to this angle us a 20 or so piece of rafter.. Nail a cleat top make 19 inches so if you mark on top of the rafter you can see the mark..say the rafter is 12 ' 6 '' use your pattern to mark the plumb cut and cut it. Make a patter for the seat hook your tape to the top and measure down 12' 6;; draw another plumb cut if you want say 3 and 1/2 in bearing on the wall slide a 2/4 down this plumb line and mark the seat cut. well you should use a framing square to mark the tail.. cut two rafters Then lay about 8 boards on edge crown down on 2 horses and mark them lay them flat and one at a time cut the rafters. by the way when you calculate the length of the rafter deduct the thickness of the ridge before you look it up and add the Shear wall if you use a 2.8 ridge and 1.2ply you would only deduct1/2 '' for the ridge if you want i will explain hips and valleys
Trade school teaches it in Units. I personally always prefered totals. So glad you covered both for everyone. Height above plate (2/3rd rule...and its limitations of steep roofs) and bearing length (minimums / don't extend cut beyond plate / its relation to height above plate) would be a great way to progress this as you add projections.
Great content as usual, thanks bud!
I find both methods helpful in different scenarios. It also opens the door to see cross compatibility among the trades math concepts.
I will definitely be getting into the WAP (wood above plate) and bearing length in upcoming videos.
you don't need a framing square or speed square to cut commons say you have and 8'' rise.. that is 33 .69degrees take a chop saw and cut it to this angle us a 20 or so piece of rafter.. Nail a cleat top make 19 inches so if you mark on top of the rafter you can see the mark..say the rafter is 12 ' 6 '' use your pattern to mark the plumb cut and cut it. Make a patter for the seat hook your tape to the top and measure down 12' 6;; draw another plumb cut if you want say 3 and 1/2 in bearing on the wall slide a 2/4 down this plumb line and mark the seat cut. well you should use a framing square to mark the tail.. cut two rafters Then lay about 8 boards on edge crown down on 2 horses and mark them lay them flat and one at a time cut the rafters. by the way when you calculate the length of the rafter deduct the thickness of the ridge before you look it up and add the Shear wall if you use a 2.8 ridge and 1.2ply you would only deduct1/2 '' for the ridge if you want i will explain hips and valleys