This was a dry pitch with plenty of rope so not going to lose that biner. I loaned my Hannibal to the lady on the background so was using a Gi-Gi as a descender. But yeah the risk is there if the rope length is set in deep water. Using a canyoning draw (two lockers connected with dog bone) is a way to prevent that from happening.
Close, but not quite; I recommend you get a copy of the Canyoning Technical Manuel and take a canyoning course with a Qualified Instructor. www.aspiring.co.nz/product/canyoning-technical-manual/
Just watched this again a few years later and picked up a couple of points that can be improved. In particular the mule and overhand knots were a bit sloppy! I blame the mountaineering course I had just come off before making this video. Otherwise the process is pretty much right depending on the risks a given pitch has.
Nice self-review picking up the not-a-mule-but-a-half-hitch, I did notice that but really happy to see you point it out yourself! Re: the "biner block" where you used a clove-hitch, I have been teaching (in rock climbing) that we should close the system by clipping that carabiner back to the load line, making a "P" shape through the anchor and meaning that even if the biner-block slips somehow through the rings it doesn't result in a fall, and it doesn't affect the ability to retrieve. Sure... you'd have to use some imagination and pretend the ring happens to be more like a steel hula-hoop but you get the idea!. Is there anything in canyoning that speaks against this? Just interested.
Thanks Joel. Very useful!
Hey great video & very very cool. Canyoneering in Australia would be a dream come true. Maybe one of these days I will be that lucky.
Aren't you going to lose that carabiner when you rappel off the end of the rope?
This was a dry pitch with plenty of rope so not going to lose that biner. I loaned my Hannibal to the lady on the background so was using a Gi-Gi as a descender. But yeah the risk is there if the rope length is set in deep water. Using a canyoning draw (two lockers connected with dog bone) is a way to prevent that from happening.
Close, but not quite; I recommend you get a copy of the Canyoning Technical Manuel and take a canyoning course with a Qualified Instructor. www.aspiring.co.nz/product/canyoning-technical-manual/
Just watched this again a few years later and picked up a couple of points that can be improved. In particular the mule and overhand knots were a bit sloppy! I blame the mountaineering course I had just come off before making this video. Otherwise the process is pretty much right depending on the risks a given pitch has.
Nice self-review picking up the not-a-mule-but-a-half-hitch, I did notice that but really happy to see you point it out yourself!
Re: the "biner block" where you used a clove-hitch, I have been teaching (in rock climbing) that we should close the system by clipping that carabiner back to the load line, making a "P" shape through the anchor and meaning that even if the biner-block slips somehow through the rings it doesn't result in a fall, and it doesn't affect the ability to retrieve. Sure... you'd have to use some imagination and pretend the ring happens to be more like a steel hula-hoop but you get the idea!. Is there anything in canyoning that speaks against this? Just interested.