You have done a great job. I built all my benchwork, then helix and staging yards (had to pull it down and rebuilt it) then it sat dormant for nearly 2 years, finally starting to work on mine. It all takes time but its worth it 🇦🇺
Elmer's Glue All is OK, but I switched to LOCTITE's Power Grab Express All Purpose Construction Adhesive in a squeeze tube (it also comes in a caulk gun tube size). I find it really holds well, you have 10-15 minutes before it dries (clear), cleans up with water, and if needed, you can lift the track up with an exacto knife after it cures.
I always preferred Elmer's Glue for laying track. Mainly because I make mistakes or sometimes change my mind and want to move track. With Elmer's I just spray a little water on it, give it a minute or two to soak in and then use a putty knife to pry it up. Nice work. Keep the videos coming. Cheers and stay safe.
Thanks! I definitely wanted to the turnout to be secure, I was just not thinking and put glue around the switch activator. In the future I will avoid putting glue in that area, but I think I will keep gluing the turnout down.
Great job! I found whatever adhesive chosen to hold the track down is really not too critical as the ballast really holds the track to the roadbed also. Picked up some awesome tips from your video also.
It looks like there's hesitation in the turnout throw in both directions. Did you remove the spring from your turnouts? If not, you probably should since you're using slo-mo switch machines. Otherwise, they may start to hang p on you.
The springs have been removed. I think the hesitation is the time it takes the motor to finally move the wire enough that it starts to actuate the turnout switch. I may not have the motion ratio set right, but it does ensure the track is held tight
DAP makes a silicone based sealer which works great. This stuff is an adhesive, as written on the tube. For this application, it didn't seem to work very well.
Nice work. I am also learning as I go. I see you are Canadian as I am from southern Ontario. Not a lot of n scale modellers in my area. What part of the country are you from?
Congrats on the layout build! I'll be there one day, for now just collecting all these new runs of freight cars and locomotives lol hey just curious. Is the width of the cork bed accurate? I always stripped it in half since it fit underneath N scale track better than the stock piece did. Not sure if I was doing that right...
I wouldn't know what accurate is, but I feel the cork is probably a bit too wide. If there was a fast, accurate way to cut a strip off each piece, I would do it.
@@nscaler454 that's what I meant lol I wasnt sure if the uncut piece of corkbed was supposed to be that long for N scale track, too wide for my liking so I always cut in down the middle, double the roadbed for the same price for us!!!!
"Definitely took a lot longer than I expected." That should be written on every modeler's tombstone! Nice job with these videos.
100% true
You have done a great job. I built all my benchwork, then helix and staging yards (had to pull it down and rebuilt it) then it sat dormant for nearly 2 years, finally starting to work on mine. It all takes time but its worth it 🇦🇺
Elmer's Glue All is OK, but I switched to LOCTITE's Power Grab Express All Purpose Construction Adhesive in a squeeze tube (it also comes in a caulk gun tube size). I find it really holds well, you have 10-15 minutes before it dries (clear), cleans up with water, and if needed, you can lift the track up with an exacto knife after it cures.
I always preferred Elmer's Glue for laying track. Mainly because I make mistakes or sometimes change my mind and want to move track. With Elmer's I just spray a little water on it, give it a minute or two to soak in and then use a putty knife to pry it up. Nice work. Keep the videos coming. Cheers and stay safe.
Thanks! Did the Elmer's glue stop holding over time?
@@nscaler454 I have one module that the track was glued down in February of 2019 that is still holding without a problem.
@@Maurice00PA Good to know. Thanks!
Great video. You’re brave gluing your switch in. Hopefully it doesn’t cause you any issues. Can’t wait to see further progress. -Mark
Thanks! I definitely wanted to the turnout to be secure, I was just not thinking and put glue around the switch activator. In the future I will avoid putting glue in that area, but I think I will keep gluing the turnout down.
nice backdrop and nice track laying. great info on dap vs glue.
Great job! I found whatever adhesive chosen to hold the track down is really not too critical as the ballast really holds the track to the roadbed also. Picked up some awesome tips from your video also.
Thanks. It makes me happy when others find something useful from the videos.
nice
Lookin good.
You could try Aleene's Tacky Glue for the track. It's available in craft sections and stores. It is what I use for my Peco track.
never heard of it. Can the track be removed with a little effort if you need to pull the track up? That's one thing I like about Elmer's glue.
what track are you useing also what transformer
Peco Code 55 track. To power the tortoise, I used a 2.67 amp power supply I had laying around.
@@nscaler454 nice im 13 ihave a oscale setup but i wanna build a n scale one
@@hubbabubba2984 you can definitely run a lot more trains in a much smaller area with an n scale setup
@@nscaler454 ye thatsmy thought
It looks like there's hesitation in the turnout throw in both directions. Did you remove the spring from your turnouts? If not, you probably should since you're using slo-mo switch machines. Otherwise, they may start to hang p on you.
The springs have been removed. I think the hesitation is the time it takes the motor to finally move the wire enough that it starts to actuate the turnout switch. I may not have the motion ratio set right, but it does ensure the track is held tight
I use Dap in the bathroom, between the tub and tile. I think it’s a sealer, not an adhesive.
DAP makes a silicone based sealer which works great. This stuff is an adhesive, as written on the tube. For this application, it didn't seem to work very well.
Oh, I stand corrected. Thanks for posting.
So is this going to be a CN line?
I have a few CN locos, but also 1 CP.
@@nscaler454 Oh okay you might look into CP locotives made by Kato
Nice work. I am also learning as I go. I see you are Canadian as I am from southern Ontario. Not a lot of n scale modellers in my area. What part of the country are you from?
Alberta
Congrats on the layout build! I'll be there one day, for now just collecting all these new runs of freight cars and locomotives lol hey just curious. Is the width of the cork bed accurate? I always stripped it in half since it fit underneath N scale track better than the stock piece did. Not sure if I was doing that right...
I wouldn't know what accurate is, but I feel the cork is probably a bit too wide. If there was a fast, accurate way to cut a strip off each piece, I would do it.
@@nscaler454 that's what I meant lol I wasnt sure if the uncut piece of corkbed was supposed to be that long for N scale track, too wide for my liking so I always cut in down the middle, double the roadbed for the same price for us!!!!
🤠🖐🚂
This video took a whole half a year???? I would’ve just forgot about the video
yup. Summer time is not my train time.